1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. Bearing Buddy
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 1.875 Inch I.D.
  6. 2.560 Inch O.D.
Spindle Grease Seal Set for LM48548 or L68149 Inner Bearing and 1.980, 1.968 or 2.562 Bearing Buddy

Spindle Grease Seal Set for LM48548 or L68149 Inner Bearing and 1.980, 1.968 or 2.562 Bearing Buddy

Item # BB60002
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Bearing Buddy Seals - BB60002
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Minimize grease leakage and maximize the life of your trailer's grease seals by switching to this smooth-operating system. The high-quality neoprene seals ride on consistently greased stainless steel rings for easy, free movement. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Bearing Buddy. Spindle Grease Seal Set for LM48548 or L68149 Inner Bearing and 1.980, 1.968 or 2.562 Bearing Buddy part number BB60002 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (43)
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Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB60002

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 1.875 Inch I.D.
  • 2.560 Inch O.D.
  • Bearing Buddy

Minimize grease leakage and maximize the life of your trailer's grease seals by switching to this smooth-operating system. The high-quality neoprene seals ride on consistently greased stainless steel rings for easy, free movement.


Features:

  • Maintains a smoothly operating grease seal system
    • Reduces grease leakage caused by rough seal surfaces
    • Lasts longer than typical grease seals by minimizing wear and tear
  • Works with Bearing Buddy bearing protectors (sold separately)
    • Bearing Buddy maintains grease pressure, ensuring smooth operation of ring and seal
  • Constructed of high-quality, durable materials that can withstand high pressure
  • Includes stainless steel seal ring; O-ring; neoprene, double-lip grease seal; and installation instructions
  • Made in USA


Specs:

  • Application: trailer spindles with LM48548 or L68149 inner bearing and Bearing Buddy models with 1.980", 1.968" or 2.562" hub bore
  • Grease seal dimensions:
    • Inner diameter: 1.875"
    • Outer diameter: 2.560"
  • Seal ring dimensions:
    • Inner diameter: 1.377"
    • Outer diameter: 1.875"
  • Kit includes all parts necessary for 2 hubs


The high-quality seal in this unique kit is made of neoprene, a flexible, synthetic rubber that remains stable even at high temperatures. Unlike typical grease seals, which wear as they ride along rough surfaces, this neoprene seal rides on a smooth, durable stainless steel ring. By using this grease seal set along with your Bearing Buddy bearing protector, you can be sure that the seal and ring always have adequate grease for fluid operation.

Bearing Buddy Spindle Seal Set

Note: If your axle spindles already have permanent, stainless steel surface rings, you do not need this spindle seal system.



60002 Bearing Buddy Spindle Seal Kit 2





Video of Spindle Grease Seal Set for LM48548 or L68149 Inner Bearing and 1.980, 1.968 or 2.562 Bearing Buddy

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Spindle Grease Seal Set for LM48548 or L68149 Inner Bearing and 1.980, 1.968 or 2.562 Bearing Buddy - BB60002

Average Customer Rating:  4.6 out of 5 stars   (43 Customer Reviews)

Minimize grease leakage and maximize the life of your trailer's grease seals by switching to this smooth-operating system. The high-quality neoprene seals ride on consistently greased stainless steel rings for easy, free movement.

- BB60002
by:

The Seals worked as expected. 706622



- BB60002
by:

Work as advertised, removed the BB the other day to inspect, no sign of water intrusion. BB coupled with the double lip grease seals are the ticket to long bearing life. 681441



- BB60002
by:

These took care of my grease leakage problem and I'm very pleased. Drove 1400 miles into Canada and no grease oozed out even with fully packed bearing buddies! 635013



- BB60002
by:

You are my go-to folks for all my trailer needs (I have almost ten, of all kinds!). As always, your site was easy to navigate, clear and accurate specific info, and great prices. Shipping was quick. I could not ask for more! Brad 613327



- BB60002
by:

My galvanized boat trailer was made 34 years ago. Thru the years my stockpile of hub grease seals had become exhausted. I contacted the original manufacture's parts department, who were very helpful, but couldn't come up with my seal. They didn't recognize their old kit number from 34 years ago. I tied local stores for seals in my area to no avail. I then went online and found etrailer.com. They had the Buddy Bearing Seal Set #BB60002 which was exactly what I needed and like what I bought from the original manufacture 34 years ago. I will be going to etrailer.com for all my trailer needs. 548290



- BB60002
by:

I looked locally for the bearing and seal sleeve I needed but nobody carried it. I called Etrailer and got Ian on the line. With only dimensions from the bearing and the seal from online research Ian was able to match up the parts I needed. Fast, intelligent and helpful service. I will go directly to etrailer next time and save me all the phone calls and running around. 544100



- BB60002
by:

Worked just like expected they would. Pressured up with grease and nothing leaked on either wheel. 500290



- BB60002
by:

your videos are very helpful 453862



- BB60002
by:

This Bearing Buddy seal kit is a great concept on paper. This kit may work well on highway only applications. I used this kit on a boat trailer application and it was a disaster. The first problem encountered is this kit eliminates the best feature of a E-Z Lube 3500# trailer axle. That feature is the ability to pump grease into the hub without any disassembly. The second shortcoming of this design is the entire inner seal assembly is centered and retained by a tiny single O-ring. The trailer this kit was installed on has disc brakes. After one road trip the O-rings shrunk /cracked causing the inner seal race to loose contact with the axle. This caused the grease to leak out all over the rotors and calipers. That is not worst part. It was later determined that the seal kit did not even last long enough on the first trip to function as described. Upon teardown of all four hubs it was clear the hubs flooded with water at the first launching of the boat. Between the mess made on the trailer brake hardware and the water soaked hubs I can not recommend this seal kit for boat trailer applications. 450726



- BB60002
by:

Just the pets I ordered. Perfect fit and quality. Also appreciate installation instructions/video. 449629



- BB60002
by:

Wheel bearings and seals, great product and price with great service 446532



- BB60002
by:

Perfect 438016



- BB60002
by:

Great product, price & fast shipping. 412786



- BB60002
by:

Heavy duty, well made, should last for years 414011



- BB60002
by:

Ended up changing to other type of spindles so can grease from inside bearing to outside. Buggy bearings always seem to be either leaking water in of grease out. I will never use buddy bearing setup again if I can help it. 402781



- BB60002
by:

Used on 1976 Ranger trailer went on great and used same slots and pin when I tightened the bearings. I also used Bearing Buddies with this seal. No grease inside my wheels and definitely an upgrade from 1976 standards 385620



- BB60002
by:

Easy install. Why mess around? Great customer service by this company. 377064



- BB60002
by:

All as expected. Nicely done. 362134



- BB60002
by:

Easy to find parts, fast shipping and great follow up. 358888



- BB60002
by:

Great product, Web page was easy to use and find the part I needed. Great prices and shipping was super fast . I will definitely be ordering from them again. 352850



- BB60002
by:

My boat trailer axle spindle was damaged seriously on one trip. With this spindle seal, it just work for me. I don't need to replace my axle. And it works great. 297981


Comments
Still good
Xiaojing H - 09/25/2017

28456

- BB60002
by:

B60002 seal kit. Used these a few times now on 2 different trailers. Guys have no want to replace a worn axle due to seal surfaces being worn and these bought them some extra time. When nothing else sealed right, these did the trick! Than you 296470



- BB60002
by:

Just what I needed.came it just a couple days.great service. 295557



- BB60002
by:

All the parts stores in my area could not find what I needed including the RV stores. This was exactly what I needed great product. 290493


Comments
They are working as expected
Tom - 09/02/2017

27847
Comments
the axle bearing seals are doing there job
Thomas - 09/02/2017

27850

- BB60002
by:

Had products in stock at reasonable pri ce. 285618


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Ask the Experts about this Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Bearing Buddy Spindle Seal Kit For Hub Using L68149 Inner Bearing
    The Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Kit you referenced, part # BB60002 would be the appropriate replacement seal for your hub. It is compatible with your L68149 inner bearing and is the proper replacement for your existing 10-19 seal. The two most common causes of seal failure are 1) Using a single lip seal instead of a double lip and 2) Overfilling the hub (or a combination of the two.) A double-lip seal incorporates a spring into the seal, providing a tighter seal around the spindle. To...
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  • Replacement Grease Seals for Jayco Camper Trailer
    We carry grease seals, bearings, races, grease caps and all similar items for a variety of trailers. Please note that trailer makers typically do not maintain specs for items like seals used in their trailers so knowing the trailer year/make/model, or even the specific VIN, is not usually helpful in finding correct parts. The best way is to find the original item part number. Please refer to the linked photo that shows where to find part numbers on such items. If you can't find a...
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  • Need To Replace Old Grease Seal # 171255
    You will want to match up the old seal with the number stamped on the seal. Each seal number is an indication of a different size seal. The correct # 171255 seal that you will need is Grease Seal - Double Lip, part # 58846. This seal includes the spring that you referred to.
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seal for Trailer with LM29749 and L44610 Bearings
    We carry the a grease seal that matches what you have. For that you would want the # BB60002. For the bearings we have the part # 29749 and the race part # 29710. For the other bearing we do not have an exact number match, but based on the race # L44610 that you have the bearing you need is either the # L44643 or # L44649. If the inner diameter of the bearing you have is 1.00 inches measured with a digital or dial caliper you would need part # L44643, if instead it is 1.06 you...
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  • What is Purpose of O-Ring that Comes with Spindle Grease Seal Set BB60002
    If you check out the diagram I attached you'll see how the O-ring of the Bearing Buddy Grease Seal set part # BB60002 installs. It's location is designed to compress between the seal ring and grease seal to help prevent the seal from leaking or failing. With Bearing Buddies people tend to put too much grease in the hubs with them so this acts as a way to help brace the seal and prevent failure.
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  • How do Bearings and Hub Seals Install on a Boat Trailer Hub
    The inner bearing will not ride on the rubber o-ring. The bearing will ride on the spindle and the seal goes just to the outside of it and keeps the grease from leaking out of the hub. To see how it all goes together check out the video I attached.
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  • Seal # RG06-050 Recommendation for a Hub with Bearing # L68149
    I did some research and based on the bearing and race number that you gave me you have # 84 spindle that will need Grease Seals # RG06-050. I attached a couple videos on bearing replacement that you should find informative.
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  • Using Bearing Buddy # BB60002 Grease Seal Kit on Spindle With Damaged Grease Seal Journal Surface
    If the seal journal surface on your spindle is damaged to the point where the grease seal compatible with your hub won't contain the grease in the hub, the only acceptable way to proceed is to replace the spindle or the axle. Because welding replacement spindles into place is a delicate operation requiring lots of skill to get correct, in many cases its simpler to replace the axle. We have a limited selection of trailer axles available, in order to determine if anything we have on hand...
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  • Recommended Stainless Steel Grease Seal Kit for Continental Trailer
    It sounds like you are looking for the Bearing Buddy Spindle Grease Seal Set # BB60002. This kit is going to be the correct kit for the spindle measurements you provided. I have linked the above mentioned product to this page for your convenience.
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  • Bearing Buddy Seal Set for 10-19 Seal
    The Bearing Buddy Seal Set # BB60002 is the what you're looking for. It's the correct seal for spindles using inner bearing # L68149 which is what you have.
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  • Can Double-Lip Grease Seals Be Substituted for Standard Seals
    You can replace a standard grease seal with one of the Bearing Buddy seals like # BB60002, even if you do not care to use the Bearing Buddy protectors, so long as the seal inner and outer diameters match the dimensions required by your spindle and hub bore. These seals are the double-lip type that can withstand the higher grease pressure inside the hub bore when a Bearing Buddy grease cap is installed but they will provide durable service even if this is not the case. They will also...
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  • Compatibility of the Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Set with Posi-Lube Spindles
    To make sure the Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Kit, # BB60002, will be compatible with your Posi-Lube spindles, a measurement on the spindle where this seal will sit. The inner diameter of the steel ring for this set measures 1.377 inches. Your spindle will have to fall within this measurement for this seal kit to fit. I have attached a diagram of where you will need to measure on your spindle to find the correct measurement.
    view full answer...
  • How to Determine Correct Replacement Bearings and Seal for 2001 Ranger Boat Trailer Hubs
    In order to determine the correct replacement bearings and seal for the hubs on your Ranger Boat Trailer, you will need to first remove the hub assemblies. Once removed, you can check for the bearing numbers, which should be stamped onto the bearings themselves. If you are unable to locate or read the numbers, you can also take a few measurements along the trailer spindle where the bearings and seal sit. I have attached an image that clarifies exactly where these measurements will be taken...
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  • Recommended Brake Assemblies for Karavan Boat Trailer with 3500 lb Axle
    For your brake assemblies, I recommend the Demco Hydraulic Brake Kit - Free Backing - Galvanized - 10" - Left/Right Hand Assemblies - 3.5K # 40716-15. These galvanized assemblies will work very well for saltwater or freshwater use, resisting corrosion. The free backing design allows you to back up without using the lockout on your coupler. This will absolutely fit your 3500 lb axle. For your Bearing Buddies, bearings, and seals, you very likely have the standard size 84 spindle...
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  • Recommended Seal For Bearing Buddy Protectors
    The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair) # BB1980A-SS are designed for that blue seal to expand and eventually have visible grease around that edge. I've attached a video that shows this installation and grease application for you. The grease needing to be applied almost every trip is not normal, so I recommend the Spindle Grease Seal Set # BB60002 to contain your grease with a tight seal intended for this application.
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  • Finding Replacement Bearing Sizes for 2006 EZLoader Trailer
    I spoke with EZLoader, who gave me your bearing sizes. The inner bearing is # LM48548, which measures 1.375 inches. Its matching race is # LM48510. The outer bearing is # L44649, which measures 1.063 inches. Its matching race is # L44610. You can also purchase a grease seal set, # BB60002. We also offer grease caps for 1.98 inch hub bores, such as the standard grease cap # RG04-020, and the EZ Lube grease cap # DC200L-DCRP. I've attached several review videos of these products...
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  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for Hub with Bearing Number L68149
    The correct Bearing Buddy to use with the bearing numbers you listed of L44649 and L68149 is the # BB1980A or # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel.
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  • Are Other Parts Needed to Install Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A-SS
    The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors you referenced, part # BB1980A-SS, do not require other parts for installation on your trailer hubs. What is important is that your current trailer hubs have the correct bore for these parts, 1.980-inches as measured with a digital caliper, and that your outer bearing number matches one of the three that are compatible with this Bearing Buddy kit: L-44643, L-44649 or L-44640. Also please note that Bearing Buddies cannot be used on EZ-Lube spindles...
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  • Bearing Buddy and Spindle Grease Seal Set Recommendation for 3,500 Pound Axle Trailer
    Typically, 3,500 pound axles use an inner bearing # L68149. However, it is a good idea to double check that this is the inner bearing on your trailer. For a trailer that has an inner bearing of L68149 with a 1.980 Bearing Buddy, you will want to use the Spindle Grease Seal Set # BB60002. It looks like you previously ordered the Titan Disc Brake Kit with actuating coupler. This kit uses the L68149 inner bearing. For these disc brakes with the 1.980 Bearing Buddy, the # BB60002 grease...
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  • Grease Seal Availability with Inner Diameter 1.5 and Outer 1.987
    Try measuring your old grease seal again as most likely the part # 10-9 would be the correct seal you would need. This seal has an inner diameter of 1.50 inches and an outer diameter of 1.987 which is pretty close to what you have but not quite the same. This would be the best option we could provide. The closest grease seal to match the second set of dimensions is the part # BB60002 that has inner diameter of 1.875 and outer diameter 2.560.
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  • How to Select Bearing Buddy for Trailer Using L68111 Inner Bearing
    Part # L68111 refers to a race that matches up with bearing # L68149. The inner grease seal that fits with these parts is # RG06-050, which is a pair of double-lip grease seals. These seals have an outer diameter of 2.565-inches (that fits within the hub bore) and an inner diameter of 1.719-inches (that fits on the spindle). A common dimension is 1.980-inches and in this size you can choose an item like the non-threaded stainless-steel # BB1980A-SS. If you do use Bearing Buddies you'll...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Seals for LM48548 Inner Bearing and L44610 Outer Race
    For your bearings you will want # LM48548 and # L44649. For your grease seal you will want # BB60002. Then for your races you will want # L44610 and # LM48510.
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  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protector Replacement Options
    The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors, # BB1968SS, are designed to keep grease from exiting and water and dirt from entering. These bearing protectors come with an automatic pressure-relief feature to prevent overfilling. The grease will seep around the piston and into the barrel when it is full. You should not add additional grease once the Bearing Buddy is full to prevent the seal from blowing out. I would also recommend using the Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Set, # BB60002. These seals...
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  • Bearings & Seals for 2004 EZ Loaded Boat Trailer Using Bearings L68149 and L44649
    We can help you with replacement seals and bearings for your boat trailer and also with replacement hubs if yours are worn or damaged. In general double-lip seals are desirable on boat trailers to help prevent entry of water and the escape of grease. For replacement bearings use parts # L68149 and # L44649 and for a double-lip seal (as supplied by the manufacturer) use part # BB60002. If the races in your hubs are worn or damaged you can replace them too, using parts # L68111 and...
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  • Grease Seal and Bearing Buddies for a 1996 Tracker Marine Tandem Axle Trailer
    I agree that seal # 168233 will work based on the measurements you have provided. There is an ever so slight margin of error and the differences in the measurements you took and the seal measurements are statistically zero so it would not be a problem. If you wanted to go with Bearing Buddies then you would need a 1980 model, # BB1980A. The matching grease seal set would then be # BB60002. I have linked a video review for you.
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  • Grease Seal Replacement Recommendation with Inner Diameter 1.865 and Outer Diameter 2.565
    Based on the dimensions you listed you would want the Grease Seal Set part # BB60002.
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  • Bearing Buddies and Seals Compatible With # AKHD-655-35-K Hub/Brake Drum for 3500 lb Axle
    We do have Bearing Buddies that would fit the 1.980 inch diameter hub bore used by the # AKHD- 655-35-K hub/drum. I'd recommend the stainless steel version, part # BB1980A-SS. For the Bearing Buddy seals, use # BB60002. Unfortunately, the # AKHD-655-35-K is a pre-packaged kit, we can't substitute any parts. The # R2061-284 stub spindle is compatible with the L44649 and L681449 bearings used by the hub/drum you're interested in, so it could be fabricated into a spare tire mount. I've...
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  • Replacement Mobile Home Hub with 1-1/4 Outer and 1-3/8 Inner Bearings
    It sounds like you're trying to replace hubs on a mobile home axle. For a hub that matches the bearing sizes you mentioned, we have the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 4,400-lb E-Z Lube Axles - 10" Diameter - 6 on 5-1/2 # 8-407-5UC3-EZ. This is the only option available as we do not carry an idler hub version of this hub. If you'd like to also install compatible brake assemblies on these hubs, you can use # K23-462-463-00. Mobile home axles are designed for one time use, to transport...
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  • Replacement Bearing, Seals, and Races for ShoreLandr Boat Trailer
    Based on the measurements and bearing numbers you provided me. We have the individual parts you need. You'd want the bearing part # LM67048 and # L68149. Since the inner diameter of bearing # LM67048 is 1.250 inches and the inner diameter of bearing # L68149 is 1.378 inches. The matching race for bearing # LM67048 is # LM67010. And the matching race for bearing L68149 is # L68111. The seal you need is # RG06-050.
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  • Can't Install Rotor All the Way on Trailer Spindle Using Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Set
    It will be a very tight fit, especially if you have previously wiped all the grease from the spindles prior to installing the rotors. What I believe is happening is the tight fit is preventing you from easily pushing the rotor all the way onto the spindle. If you still have a free seal assembly not installed in a rotor yet you can do a dry test fit on a spindle to see if it seats in the proper position at all. If it doesn't then it is possible that for some reason the Bearing Buddy...
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Jackie C
Expert Research:
Mike L
Expert Research:
Reno H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Written by:
Lindsey S
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Chris R

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