FITS 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles

Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles

Item # HM56207

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Tow Bar Wiring
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2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Tow Bar Wiring HM56207 - Custom - Hopkins
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In Use/Installed


  • Wiring Harness
  • Plugs into Vehicle Wiring
  • Hopkins
  • Custom
  • Tail Light Mount
The best technical support and full tow bar wiring installation instructions. Lowest price Grand Cherokee tow bar wiring guarantee and expert service. Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2008 tow bar wiring by Hopkins are available from etrailer.com. For expert service call 800-298-8924 to order your Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles part number HM56207, or order online at etrailer.com.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (4)
  • Q & A (4)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles

Wire your Jeep Grand Cherokee and get the signal lights required for flat towing without having to splice into your wiring with this custom, plug-in harness. Integrated diodes prevent feedback from RV for safe operation.


Features:

  • Lets you wire your vehicle to accept your RV's tail, brake, and turn signal lights for flat towing
    • Provides 4-way flat plug at front of towed car to connect to motor home
  • Plugs in quickly and easily - no cutting or splicing of wires
    • Connection points are located behind your vehicle's tail lights
  • Prevents electrical feedback to safeguard towed car's electrical system
    • Weatherproof box keeps built-in diodes protected
  • Won't interfere with electrical system when towed car is not hooked up to RV
  • Custom designed for your vehicle
  • Includes wiring harness, mounting bracket, and installation hardware
    • Extension loop for connecting towed car to RV is sold separately
    • Brake light relay (RM-88400 - sold separately) may be required if used with supplemental braking system
  • 90-Day warranty


Wiring Your Towed Car with Hopkins

Wiring your car for flat towing has never been easier. No more testing wires or splicing into your electrical system. No need to painstakingly position multiple diodes beneath your vehicle. No worries about voiding your warranty. With this custom-fit towed vehicle wiring kit from Hopkins, all you have to do is plug the harness into your vehicle's existing wiring, which is located behind your car's tail light assemblies. No cutting, tapping, or splicing is required.


After plugging in the wiring harness, use the included bracket to mount the 4-way flat connector at the front of your towed car. An extension loop (sold separately) is required to connect your towed car to your RV.


Do You Need a Brake Light Relay?

Because your vehicle has a combined lighting system - wherein the brake signals and the turn signals are carried on a single wire - a brake light relay (RM-88400 - sold separately) may be required if you use a supplemental braking system with your towing setup. A supplemental braking system depresses the brake pedal in your towed car every time you apply the brakes in your RV. So, if your towed car's brake lights illuminate when the brake pedal is pressed and the engine is off - as is the case when towing - then you need to install a relay to ensure that the lights on your towed car always act in accordance with the signals sent by your RV via the wiring harness. Without a relay, the brake signal from your towed car will override the turn signal sent by your RV when you slow down to make turns, creating a potential hazard.



11156207 Hopkins Plug-In Simple Dinghy Towing Harness

Replaces 56207



HM56207 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details HM56207 Installation instructions

California residents: click here


Video of Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit Installation - 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Speaker 1: Today on our 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles, part number HM56207.Whenever we're flat towing our Jeep behind our motor home, it's going to be important that all of our lights match each other. That way if we change lanes or if we slow down, we can safely make sure that everyone around us knows what's going on. Well our wiring kit is going to do that exactly. It's going to take the signal from our motor home and transfer them directly into our Jeep's taillights. That way we're not going to have to worry about making sure that they match up.Our wiring kit's going to give us all of our basic light functions, like our taillights, our turn signals, and our brake lights. It's going to prevent us from having to hook up those magnetic lights, set everything up every time that we tow our Jeep, as well as take them down when we want to drive.

Also, we're not going to have to worry about those wires coming from the back all the way to the front potentially scratching the paint.Once we have it installed, it's not going to change the outward appearance of our Jeep, because it's going to be all behind our taillights and internal. But it also is going to be one of the easiest kits to install compared to a traditional diode kit. We're not going to have to test any wires. We're not going to have to cut or splice into anything at all, because it's simply just going to plug in with a T connector behind our taillights.Our wiring kit is going to have a diode pack. So it's going to make sure that our Jeep's electrical system is protected.

And if there is any problems on the motor home end, there's not going to be any back feeding or any short circuits that'll happen on our Jeep.Our wiring kit is going to give us a 4-pole flat connector on the front of our Jeep, so we can hook up to our motor home. And you can upgrade that to any connector that you want, just keep in mind those are sold separately. But now that we've seen what everything looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin your installation, we're going to come to our rear hatch and we're going to open it up so we can get access to our taillights. Now on each side, we're going to have two pushpins that are holding it in place. And you'll see there's going to be a small notch on the pushpin itself, you'll want to take a trim handle tool, or a flathead screwdriver, and we're going to pop out this center section and that'll relieve the tension off of the clip.

Then we can come behind the outer section and pull the rest of the pushpin out.And once you have both pushpins removed, you can grab your taillight assembly and you're going to want to pull straight back. You don't want to go too much side to side, because there are some alignment pins and we don't want those to break. And once we pull it out, yours may not have these connectors because this is for our trailer wiring, however it is going to be the same regardless. We'll just take this red tab, slide it away from the taillight, then we'll push down on that black lever, and pull the connector out. And then with the one on the bottom, we just turn, quarter turn, and pull the entire bulb out.

And we'll repeat that for the other side as well.Now with our taillight out of the way, you'll notice that we're going to have this small gap in between the bumper and the body. We're going to use that hole to get our wires up to our taillight sockets, and back down so we can get to the other side.I'm going to be using a piece of airline tube that I had laying around, but you can use a coat hanger, or whatever you have available that we can drop down between the bumper and body until we can reach it underneath. So we'll drop it down, making sure that we leave the top section still out, so we have access to it.Since we're on the drivers side, we're going to start with the connector that has the yellow and brown wire on our T. So we'll take our airline tube, or whatever we're using for a pull wire, and I'm going to take a little bit of electrical tape and secure my wire to it that way we don't have to worry about it falling when I go to pull it up.Then we can start pulling our pull wire up until we can get the connector to come out the top. Now you may need to reach underneath and kind of guide it up a little bit so it doesn't get caught, but once we have it close to the top we can just start working it back and forth until we can get both ends of the connector through the opening. We can pull our pull wire off and get rid of the tape.So once we have our connectors up, you'll notice that they're going to match up with the ones that are on our vehicle. So we'll take the male end, we're going to plug it into what was plugged into our taillight housing, and we'll lock the connector down. And then now, this end will plug directly into our taillight.So now underneath you'll notice that we're going to have our diode back and then we're going to have another T connector. We're going to want to route the T connector that has the green and brown wire over to the passenger side. Now typically you're going to want to stay as high as you can going over the bumper supports, and if need be tying to the hitch if you have one, because once we get to the passenger side you're going to want to stay away from the exhaust. But we're going to use the same method of using a pull wire to get our connector up to the top.So we'll plug our connector in, then lock it down. Now you're going to want to tie up all the excess wire. If you have room you can tie it up here, or we can pull the excess back down and find a good anchor point and use some zip ties.So with the connections made at the back of our taillights, we can put our bulbs back in, and plug the socket back in. Now there is going to be a limited amount of space in the taillight area, and we are going to have a few connectors back here that we're going to have to contend with. So I suggest putting them towards the inside area here, trying to give yourself as much room to get that taillight back in place. You may have to play with the location of the wires and plugs a little bit to make sure you can clear everything, but then you'll just line up your pins and the holes and press the taillight back in. And we'll do the same thing over on the drivers side.Now our diode pack is going to be kind of high up underneath the bumper, but you're going to want to take a few zip ties and tie it to some existing wiring, that way we can make sure it's secure and not going to be bouncing around.So we should have our 4-pole wire left coming out of that diode pack. We're going to want to route this up to the front of the vehicle, but when you do just keep in mind you want to stay away from any moving parts, like the steering, suspension, or any of the axles. And also, stay away from any heat sources like the exhaust.So I'm going to go ahead and run this, and then I'll show you how I routed it.So I ran my wire along, zip tying it to factory wiring. Went over the rear sub frame, an axle, and it came down on my fuel tank, went over the filler neck, started following along the outside edge, and once I got to this panel I passed my wire through underneath the panel, had it come out, went over this cross brace, made sure to tuck it behind my heat shield here, went over. Then I came in so it wasn't on the control arm itself, zip tied it to the frame, went underneath the rack and pin but over all the lines, and then we got to our skid plate. Now I loosened the skid plate up, ran it through to where it met to the front, and then I had it go up underneath the under section of the fascia here to where we have it popping out the front.Now our ground wire is going to have a ring terminal on it pre-installed. There is going to be some exposed metal that's going to be in between the two panels here. So I'll just take my self tapping screw, and I'm going to go right into that metal there. You want to make sure that it screws tight enough that the ring terminals not going to move.With everything hooked up, we can take our dust cover and we'll slide it over our 4-pole end. And now would be a good time if you are going to use this connector to mount it up, however we're going to be upgrading ours to a 6-way connector so we're not going to use the included mount in your kit. But, you can see it's just going to have two holes in the bottom and it's going to open up. You'd mount this to a flat surface, and then you could stick your 4-pin connector inside and close it up and it'll hold everything in place.So since we're not using this plug and we're not going to be mounting it, we'll go ahead and leave it loose and test everything to make sure everything's working properly.I had my Jeep hooked up to my tester to simulate my motor home, to make sure all the circuits are working properly. So we can see that the taillights are working, as well as the left turn signal, our brake lights, and finally our right turn signal. All we have left to do now, is hook up to the motor home and hit the road.That'll finish up your look at the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles, part number HM56207, on our 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee.


Customer Reviews

Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles - HM56207

Average Customer Rating:  4.3 out of 5 stars   (4 Customer Reviews)

Wire your vehicle and get the signal lights required for flat towing without having to splice into your wiring with this custom, plug-in harness. Integrated diodes prevent feedback from RV for safe operation.

- HM56207
by:
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee

I purchased this wiring for my 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee, to flat tow behind my motor home. It works exactly as advertised, and for the most part it was easy to install. My only complaint is that the wires that run from the left tail light to the right side were way too short. I had to add about 3 ft of wire to make it work. But once that was complete it was a pretty simple installation. It's very clean! I mounted the plug under the bumper and behind the license plate so it's completely unnoticeable. Then I purchased a 6 ft extension to go from the plug to the motor home. I would recommend this kit for it's simplicity. And it uses all factory style connectors, so you don't have to cut any of the factory wiring in the vehicle. 425945



- HM56207
by:
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Product works well. Only down side is attachment of the plug to vehicle. There could be a better way to mount it. 412305



- HM56207
by:
Jeep Grand Cherokee

i have been towing my jeep gc flawlessly 4 1 yr thxs etrailer 337060



- HM56207
by:
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee

This company is truly the best! Besides having the products I need, available, they have knowledgeable people that can answer my questions. I've kept ordering from them. 280408


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Ask the Experts about this Hopkins Tow Bar Wiring

Do you have a question about this Tow Bar Wiring?


  • Is Hopkins Wiring Kit # HM56207 the Correct Lighting Kit when Flat Towing 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee
  • Yes, the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit, part # HM56207 is the correct tow bar wiring to flat tow your 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee. This kit lets you wire your Jeep to accept your RV's tail, brake, and turn signal lights for flat towing while providing a 4-way flat plug at the front of the towed car to connect to your motor home. It plugs in quickly and easily so no cutting or splicing of wires are required. If using a supplemental brake system a brake light relay like part # RM-88400...
    view full answer...

  • Is Hopkins Wiring Kit # HM56207 the Correct Lighting Kit when Flat Towing 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee
  • Yes, the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit, part # HM56207 is the correct tow bar wiring to flat tow your 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee. This kit lets you wire your Jeep to accept your RV's tail, brake, and turn signal lights for flat towing while providing a 4-way flat plug at the front of the towed car to connect to your motor home. It plugs in quickly and easily so no cutting or splicing of wires are required. If using a supplemental brake system a brake light relay like part # RM-88400...
    view full answer...

  • What do I Need to flat Tow a 2011 to 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Behind a Motorhome
  • To flat tow a 2011 to 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee there are 5 major components needed: base plates, tow bar, safety cables, lighting, and supplemental braking. The base plates are what attach to the front of the Jeep and provide a safe and proper attachment point for the tow bar. For the 2011 to 2013 Grand Cherokee I recommend Roadmaster EZ5 base plates # RM-521440-5. These base plates feature removable arms that, when removed, makes the base plates almost invisible. I have linked a video...
    view full answer...

  • Best Flat Towing Setup Recommendation for a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee
  • First let's start with a base plate kit. For that I would recommend the Roadmaster Base Plate # 1427-1. This is the most popular option we have for your vehicle and I attached an install video for you to check out as well. In addition to the base plates, you will also need a compatible tow bar, safety cables, lighting, and supplemental braking to flat tow your vehicle. The most popular compatible tow bar is the Falcon 2, # RM-520. For safety cables you can use # RM-643. The coiled...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Tow Bar Wiring For 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee
  • I called my contact at Hopkins and asked about your 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee. They told me that you can look on the door jamb of your Jeep for a sticker that should have the manufacture date. If your Jeep was built from January to mid June then it is the early year model and the correct harness is part # HM56206. If you find that it was built after mid-year then the right harness is part # HM56207. If using a supplemental brake system a brake light relay like part # RM-88400 is required. Another...
    view full answer...


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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Edited by:
Leah B
Written by:
Lindsey S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Photos by:
Jim W
Video by:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Alexander C
Updated by:
Jenny M
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C

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