FITS 2009 Jeep Compass
Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles - LED Bulb and Socket - Red

Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles - LED Bulb and Socket - Red

Item # RM-152-LED

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Tow Bar Wiring
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2009 Jeep Compass

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Tow Bar Wiring RM-152-LED - Universal - Roadmaster
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Roadmaster tow bar wiring for your 2009 Jeep Compass are available from etrailer.com. Installation instructions and reviews for your Jeep tow bar wiring. Expert service, and cheapest tow bar wiring price guarantee. etrailer.com carries a complete line of Roadmaster products. Order your Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles - LED Bulb and Socket - Red part number RM-152-LED online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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2009 Jeep Compass - Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles - LED Bulb and Socket - Red

  • Bulb and Socket Kit
  • Bypasses Vehicle Wiring
  • Roadmaster
  • Universal
  • Tail Light Mount

Get the signal lights needed for towing without tapping into your towed car's electrical system. Bright LEDs mount inside your Jeep Compass's tail light housings, and wiring runs beneath your car for a seamless appearance. 450 Lumens per bulb.


Features:

  • Tail light kit gives you brake, running and turn signal lights for your towed vehicle without tapping into its wiring
    • Bypasses towed car's electrical system completely - wiring is routed beneath the car
    • Eliminates concerns of violating the vehicle manufacturer's warranty
  • LED lights last longer, burn brighter, and activate faster than incandescent lights
    • Red diodes ensure that tail lights show red, not pink
    • LEDs generate little heat - no risk of melting lenses
  • Independent bulbs and sockets mount inside your tail lights
    • Take up less space in tail lights than incandescent bulbs
    • Require a 1" hole drilled in tail light housing
  • Necessary wiring, 2 bulbs, 2 sockets, zip-ties, and instructions included
    • Plug and extension loop for hookup to RV sold separately
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Wiring harness length: 27'
  • Light output per bulb: 450 lumens
  • Overall length of bulb: 2-1/2"
  • Length of bulb from flange to top of bulb: 2"
  • Wire loom:
    • Length: 3'
    • Diameter: 1/2"
  • 1-Year limited warranty


Note: Each tail light housing on towed car must have enough room for extra bulb and socket.



152-LED Road Master Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Jeep Compasss - LED Bulb and Socket



RM-152-LED Installation InstructionsInstallation Details RM-152-LED Installation instructions

Video of Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles - LED Bulb and Socket - Red


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit Installation - 2015 Ford Fiesta

Male: Today our 2015 Ford Fiesta ST hatchback. We'll be installing the Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles. It's an LED bulb and socket, part number RM-152-LED. This is completely independent from your vehicle wiring, so you don't have to tap into your factory wiring. It's an auxiliary bulb that goes into the tail light housing. This provides proper lighting functions to your vehicle while flat-towing a car without putting any tress on your factory wiring. Okay, here's what our kit consists of. We have our two LED bulbs, here, which will go into our tail light assemblies.

These will function for our tail lights, off this brown wire. Our turn signal and brake lights off this red wire. Additionally, this black wire here is our ground wire. They're both the same. These are red LEDs.

We have a couple various sized butt connectors here, to make our connections. We have a self-tapping screw, and a ring terminal here for our ground connection to the body. We have a few zip ties. Additionally, we have a loop of wiring. It's your standard 4-pole flat trailer wiring, which will run from the front of the vehicle to the rear.

We'll make our connection to our lights off this wire. It's a good idea to run your wiring at the front of your vehicle while the face shell 00:01:19 is removed during the installation of your baseplate. We'll take a 4-pole flat trailer wiring, go behind your baseplate, and underneath this air dam, behind our face shell 00:01:28. I wrapped some of the wire in black electrical tape to hide it behind the grille, once that is installed. Once you have that in place as well as your baseplate, you can reinstall your face shell 00:01:39. As you can see on our baseplate here, one of these nice two little studs hanging out, that we can mount our trailer wiring connector to. Our wire's sticking right here. Go ahead and grab it with the hook.

Pull it on out so we can access it. Now, for the front of our vehicle, we're going to be using a Roadmaster Six Wire Trailer Connector, part number RN-910030-7. This will allow us to make our connections to the 4-pole flat trailer wiring, and then have a place for our umbilical cable to make the connection between our Fiesta ST here today and our motor home that will be pulling it. Now we need to find out about how much of the screw opening here we're going to need to trim to install our connector. We're going to start right here and just trim this section out. Just use a pair of side cutters here. We'll trim away. We'll take our wire here. We'll un-tape it from the baseplate. We'll start with separating our wires here. Just go between them with the side cutters. We're going to trim off a little bit of the ends in case they we're damaged when we separated them. Now we'll strip back the ends a little bit. Twist the wire together so they go into our connector nice and easily. Take our rubber cap here, slide it over the wires. Take our connector, and we're going o loosen up the terminals we need. We need TM, here, for the tail lights. This will go to the brown wire. We need the GD for the ground, which will go to the white wire. We need the LT, for left turn signal and brake, which will go to the yellow wire, and the RT for right turn signal and brake, which will go to the green wire. We'll start with the right one. The green wire. Insert it into the RT terminal, just like so. Then we'll tighten down the screw. Make sure it's nice and tight, which it is. Then we'll go to the left turn signal, the yellow one. Then the ground. The white wire. Finally, the tail lights, the brown wire. Now we can take our dust cover here. Make sure all the wires are nice and secure, which they are. Slide it down til it stops. Then we'll seal our connection here with electrical tape and cover up the rest of the wire. This will just keep any dirt, debris or moisture from entering and causing a poor connection or a short. Okay, with that wrapped up all the way, we'll stick it back inside our face shell 00:05:11 here. Take some self-tapping screws. Get them started. Then we'll tighten them down fully. Okay, this gives us a nice, solid connection point for our wiring. Now we can begin running our wiring. We going to want to route this behind the engine compartment, avoiding any moving parts or sources of heat. Now, it's always a good idea, in case we're going to add a supplemental braking system later, to leave a little loop of wire hanging here, in case our braking system needs to tie into that. We'll have a nice little loop here, and we'll zip tie it up to these hoses right here, just so we have it if we ever need it. Now we will continue running our wire down behind our battery and behind these brake lines in front of the master cylinder. Okay, where it's routed at now, we'll be able to reach from underneath and pull our wires on through and down out the bottom of the vehicle. Okay, so we're routing it to the side of our steering shaft. Our steering shaft is encased in a plastic part, so it won't come in contact with any moving pieces. Going over our rack and pinion and your subframe here. You can pull our wire on down. All right, so when our wire came down from the side of our steering shaft here, we have it secured to this wire line, here. The zip tie, we'll go and trim that back. It went down. I used the pole wire to feed it through the channel here, and our frame rail, and it goes all the way through this til it comes out the back. It comes out the back here, right in front of our gas tank. Then our wire goes over the gas tank and it comes back out where the filler neck attaches to the gas tank. We go over the filler neck. We have it secured to this wiring harness, here, with another zip tie. Go ahead and trim that back. We'll follow that wire harness along back to where it starts to go up towards our bumper. Have it secured there, with our zip tie. Right now with our wire routed this far back, we'll go and lower the vehicle down and remove our tail light assemblies and feed wire on up. Now we use a T25 Torx bit to remove the two screws that hold our tail lights simply in on either side. Set the screws down so you don't lose them. Grab the tail light. Pull it out towards us. Go ahead and undo the bulbs here. Then pull the tail light out and set it down in the trunk. We'll do the same on the other side. Now with our driver's side tail light here, on a nice, padded, soft surface so we don't scratch it, we need to drill a hole for Led light to go into. Now, I already went ahead and marked with a paint marker here, nice little bullseye where we need to drill our pilot holes to start. It's a good idea to have a shop-vac handy to suck up any of the plastic shavings so they don't go down inside our tail light, and we have a difficulty removing them later. We'll go ahead and turn that on, and drill our pilot hole. With our pilot hole drilled, we'll switch out to our inch diameter hole saw bit. With our hole drilled, we'll turn our light upside-down. Make sure we shake out whatever's left inside. Use our vacuum to get it out. Now our bulb goes down there nice and easy. Want to go ahead and bend some of these tabs out here, so it'll clip into place easy. Let's use a screwdriver to do that. We'll just bend these out slightly. Push it on in. Okay. Once we have it nice and pushed in there, and it's nice and solid, we take some silicone and seal around it, so we don't get any moisture inside. Just make a nice, healthy bead around it. We'll push it on in. Make sure it seals nice and evenly. We'll let this dry for a bit. We'll do the same on the other side. Now that both of our tail lights have the lights mounted and sealed, we'll take this pole wire here on the driver's side. Just an old piece of airline tubing that we have lying around. We'll go through this hole here that's already in the bumper, and we'll come out underneath our car. We'll tape the end of our wire to our pole wire's electrical tape. Here with our wire tap to our pole wire. Pull it on up into our vehicle now. Okay. Perfect. Now we'll go ahead and separate all four of our wires here. Now, since we're on the left side of the vehicle, we'll take the yellow wire here for our left turn signal and brake and we'll cut off the excess. Take our wire strippers. Trip off a little bit here. Take a blue butt connector that's provided. Stick it on there, and we'll crimp it in place. Okay, we actually have just enough room to set our light here inside the hatch, and we can make our connections. Yellow wire's going to go to the red on our driver's side tail light. Strip off a little bit more here. We'll crimp it down. We'll wrap our connection in some electrical tape. This will just help seal it up to prevent any moisture from entering, potentially causing corrosion. Now, we'll take the brown wire, and we'll cut off some excess here. Strip it back. Take the other end of the brown wire that we just cut off, strip it back, and we'll tie the two together. Now we'll take one of the yellow butt connectors that comes in our kit. We'll insert it over the wire. We'll crimp it down. Take the brown wire from our light that we added, and strip off a little bit more insulation that normally would need, to expose about that much wire. Fold it back on itself. Then we'll insert it into the other end of the yellow butt connector. We'll crimp it down. Then we'll wrap this with electrical tape as well. Take a white wire here, cut off the excess. Strip it back. Take another end. Tie it together. Take another yellow butt connector. Strip off the black wire here, on our light. Again, making sure we take off a little bit more than what we're actually going to need. Fold it back in half on itself, just like so. This is to give us a little extra thickness to fit inside the yellow butt connector nice and tight. Insert it. Then we'll crimp it on down. Now I'll peel back this weather stripping here a bit, just by pulling it out towards us. Now we'll take our wire here, and we'll route them behind the weather stripping, behind the bumper cover. Back over to our passenger side. With our wires routed over to the passenger's side, we can reinstall our weather stripping now, just by pushing it back into place on the ridge. Here if our wire's routed over, we'll start making our connections. Take our brown wire here. Cut off some excess. Get rid of the excess. Strip off both ends. Then we'll connect them with a blue butt connector once we twist the wires together a little bit. Wrap it with electrical tape. Take a green wire, now. Cut off our excess. Strip off the insulation. Wrap it up again. Now we'll go to our ground wire. Measure off we're going to need. Cut off the excess. Take both ends, now. I'll tie them together. Do a yellow butt connector. Crimp it on down. Take our final wire here, the black one. Strip off a bit, more than what we're going to need. A little bit more than that, actually. Fold it back in half, and insert it into the yellow butt connector. Then we'll crimp it down. Wrap our connector up in electrical tape here. Now, the end of our white wire that we added, strip back some of the insulation like so. We'll take our blue ring terminal that we have. We'll crimp it down onto it. Now with our white wire with the ring terminal on it, we'll go ahead. Stick our self-tapping screw that's provided on, and we'll go to a solid metal surface on the car. This is just an additional ground in addition to one that's added at the front. Now we'll take our tail light assembly here. We'll reinstall the factory bulbs, starting with the turn signal bulb here. Do the reverse light next, and then the tail light and brake light. Make sure all of our wires here are nice and tucked up behind. We'll reinstall our tail light assembly. Now we'll secure it with the two T25 screws that we removed. Okay, perfect. Now, I'll do that same on the other side. Now that we have everything hooked back up, we can begin testing our lights. We have our car hooked up to a Tow Doctor Trailer Tester, part number HM-50928. Alternatively, you could also just plug it to the back of your RV. I'm going to go ahead and turn the tail lights on. As you can see, we have functioning tail lights on both side of our vehicle. Now, I want to independently activate the left brake light. This will also double as our turn signal. As you can see, it's brighter than our tail light. I'll turn our tail lights back on. It'll activate the right brake light independently. As you can see, it's also brighter than what our tail lights are. That completes our installation of the Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles, with an LED bulb and socket, part number RM-152-LED, on our 2015 Ford Fiesta ST hatchback.


Customer Reviews

Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles - LED Bulb and Socket - Red - RM-152-LED

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (20 Customer Reviews)

Get the signal lights needed for towing without tapping into your towed car's electrical system. Bright LEDs mount inside your vehicle's tail light housings, and wiring runs beneath your car for a seamless appearance. 450 Lumens per bulb.

- RM-152-LED
by:

I bought this item from etrailer and they installed it free at their business. It has worked well. Altho, only one problem. I hooked up today to the motor home, and the turn signal portion on the right side did not work. I am sure it is only a wiring problem. Plan to check it soon. But, would still buy it again. etrailer is a great group of people to work with. 703077



- RM-152-LED
by:

A keeper. Thank you. 423054



- RM-152-LED
by:

installed it today easy as sunday morning thanks 457159



- RM-152-LED
by:
2005 Mini Cooper

I bought separate LED lights for the brakes light and turn signals of the towed car. I also have a braking system attached to the car that will press on the brake of the car. Question - will the car brake light and the led brake light both come on at the same time and is this a problem.? Thanks for your help 582537



- RM-152-LED
by:
1989 Jeep Cherokee

Easy to install and no exposed wiring. Make sure you have room in the back of your tail lights for the socket assembly - I should have checked first because I had not a lot of room to work with but in the end they fit just fine. 500674



- RM-152-LED
by:
2014 GMC Sierra

Installation was straight forward, and in my situation easy. I have used every system on the market and this system is by far the best if it will fit in your lens. I installed it on a 2014 GMC Sierra which requires the ground cable to be removed when towing, so in my case grounding to the truck was useless - just use the ground from the tow vehicle. Also a 7/8 hole saw works better than the 1" that is called far. 335870



- RM-152-LED
by:

Complete nice kit. Will follow up once installed. 471747



- RM-152-LED
by:
2018 Chevrolet Malibu

This product had a great etrailer installation video specifically for my car. the only problem was that there was not enough wire! I had to go to O'Reilly's to buy more wire. 566489



- RM-152-LED
by:

Great product with quick delivery. Thanks, Rick 714138



- RM-152-LED
by:

As advertised. 641747



- RM-152-LED
by:
2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

as advertised 635374



- RM-152-LED
by:

Great kit. Had to route the wiring in a protective location. Drilling the housing was easy. Good product. Installed a yr ago. No issues. Would buy again. 616983



- RM-152-LED
by:

Gets the job done. 612932



- RM-152-LED
by:

Just arrived here. Opened the box and liked all needed materials are supplied. Plan to install next weekend. 600686



- RM-152-LED
by:

Fast delivery 591871



- RM-152-LED
by:

Great customer service. 552238



- RM-152-LED
by:
2018 Chevrolet Spark

I have always had great customer service with etrailer. Spent a lot of money. I bought the complete towing package for my 2018 Chevy Spark. Everything looks great. 552236



- RM-152-LED
by:
2006 Dodge Ram Pickup

Worked great. Great customer service 544309



- RM-152-LED
by:

Simple to install and no need to touch factory wiring. The best answer with today's multiple computer vehicles. 429593



- RM-152-LED
by:
2014 GMC Sierra

Installed LED tail light wiring kit (Brake, Tail & Signal) in 2014 GMC Sierra taillights. For towing behind motor home. LED lights are brighter than incandescent. Installation instructions easy to follow. 411584


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Ask the Experts about this Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring

Do you have a question about this Tow Bar Wiring?


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  • Recommended Base Plates Compatible with 2010 Mini Cooper S Hardtop
  • The Blue Ox base plate # BX1307 is not a confirmed fit from the manufacturer. My recommendation for your Mini S hardtop is the Roadmaster EZ Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms # 521877-1 which has been confirmed to fit. For your tow bar, I recommend the Roadmaster Falcon 2 Tow Bar # RM-520 and then the coiled safety cables # RM-643. For your wiring, I recommend the Roadmaster LED Bulb and Socket Kit # RM-152-LED. This will have you add LED's to your tail light housing for a clean...
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  • Flat Towing Wiring/Lighting Options for 2004 Jeep Wrangler
  • Unfortunately the 4-pole trailer wiring harness on the rear of your 2004 Jeep Wrangler cannot be used in "reverse" to allow it to function for flat-towing purposes. You will need to un-install that item and use a dedicated flat towing wiring harness or light kit. For your Wrangler we have several types of kits, shown on the linked page and described in the linked article of flat towing. These include simple magnetic light kits like # TL21RK, add-on bulb and socket kits like # RM-155...
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  • Replacement LED for Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit RM-152-LED
  • There is a replacement LED bulb for the Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit # RM-152-LED you have been using with your 2013 Honda CR-V. The correct part is Replacement LED Bulb # RM-300066-10.
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  • Is There a Specific Location to Install the Wiring Kit # RM-152-LED on a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500
  • The 1" hole for the Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit # RM-152-LED isn't actually very specific. Just as long as you have enough room for the LED bulb. I wish I could be a little more specific but we have never installed this kit on a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 ourselves (as of Sept 2018) so we don't have an exact video to reference and the installation instructions are very generic. I have linked installation videos on a 2016 GMC Terrain and a 2003 Toyota Tacoma so you can get an idea of where...
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  • Will the Roadmaster Tail Light Kit RM-152-LED Work On a 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premier
  • The Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles part # RM-152-LED will fit a 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premier. There was an issue with the 2019 model year but this is not longer the case. I have attached for you below a list of other parts you may need as well. Roadmaster Direct-Connect Base Plate Kit part # RM-523193-5 Roadmaster Nighthawk All Terrain Tow Bar - part # RM-676 Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System - part # SM99251 (Motorhome Hydraulic Brakes) Air Force...
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  • Can a 2016 Honda Civic be Flat-Towed
  • According to the owner's manual for your 2016 Honda Civic, if the vehicle has a manual transmission then it can be towed behind a motorhome with all four wheels on the ground. From my research, the tenth generation which is what you have from 2016+ plus is flat towable whereas the ninth generation from 2012-2015 is not flat towable. In order to flat-tow the vehicle you going to need a tow bar, base plate kit, safety cables, tail light wiring harness, supplemental braking system, and...
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  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 1994 Suzuki Sidekick Behind an RV with a Falcon II Tow Bar
  • It sounds like you not only need the bar but some of the other parts that originally came with it and the Falcon II tow bar # RM-520. That means you would need the whole assembly which is # 910021-00. The assembly and the tow bar will then be compatible with base plates # 118-1 for your 1994 Suzuki Sidekick. If the tow bar did not come with safety cables you will need a set of those as well # RM-643. You will also need a lighting solution. A popular option is the LED bulb and socket...
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