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Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles

Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles

Item # HM56300
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Tow Bar Wiring

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Hopkins Wiring Harness Tow Bar Wiring - HM56300
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Wire your vehicle and get the signal lights required for flat towing without having to splice into your wiring with this custom, plug-in harness. Integrated diodes prevent feedback from RV for safe operation. Wires as combined lighting system. Lowest Prices for the best tow bar wiring from Hopkins. Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles part number HM56300 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (13)
  • Q & A (14)
  • Videos (5)
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Hopkins Tow Bar Wiring - HM56300

  • Wiring Harness
  • Plugs into Vehicle Wiring
  • Hopkins
  • Custom
  • Tail Light Mount

Wire your vehicle and get the signal lights required for flat towing without having to splice into your wiring with this custom, plug-in harness. Integrated diodes prevent feedback from RV for safe operation. Wires as combined lighting system.


  • Lets you wire your vehicle to accept your RV's tail, brake, and turn signal lights for flat towing
    • Wires towed car as combined system so that brake and turn signals travel along same wire
    • Provides 4-way flat plug at front of towed car to connect to motor home
  • Plugs in quickly and easily - no cutting or splicing of wires
    • Connection points are located behind your vehicle's tail lights
  • Prevents electrical feedback to safeguard towed car's electrical system
    • Weatherproof box keeps built-in diodes protected
  • Won't interfere with electrical system when towed car is not hooked up to RV
  • Custom designed for your vehicle
  • Includes wiring harness, mounting bracket, and installation hardware
    • Extension loop for connecting towed car to RV is sold separately
    • Brake light relay (RM-88400 - sold separately) may be required if used with supplemental braking system
  • 90-Day warranty

Wiring Your Towed Car with Hopkins

Wiring your car for flat towing has never been easier. No more testing wires or splicing into your electrical system. No need to painstakingly position multiple diodes beneath your vehicle. No worries about voiding your warranty. With this custom-fit towed vehicle wiring kit from Hopkins, all you have to do is plug the harness into your vehicle's existing wiring, which is located behind your car's tail light assemblies. No cutting, tapping, or splicing is required.

After plugging in the wiring harness, use the included bracket to mount the 4-way flat connector at the front of your towed car. An extension loop (sold separately) is required to connect your towed car to your RV.

Changing from a Separate to a Combined Lighting System

Your vehicle ordinarily operates on a 3-wire system, wherein the brake signal and the turn signals travel along different wires to illuminate different lights. (Typically, this means that your vehicle will have amber turn signals.) This is referred to as a "separate lighting system." When you hook up for flat towing using this harness, however, your towed car's lighting system will operate in a combined fashion. This means that the brake and turn signals sent by your RV to your towed car will be carried on a single wire. As a result, your car's brake lights will do the flashing for the turn signals. Your vehicle will still function as designed - with separate lighting - when not hooked up to your RV.

Do You Need a Brake Light Relay?

Because this harness wires your vehicle as a combined system, a brake light relay (RM-88400 - sold separately) may be required if you use a supplemental braking system with your towing setup. A supplemental braking system depresses the brake pedal in your towed car every time you apply the brakes in your RV. So, if your towed car's brake lights illuminate when the brake pedal is pressed and the engine is off - as is the case when towing - then you need to install a relay to ensure that the lights on your towed car always act in accordance with the signals sent by your RV via the wiring harness. Without a relay, the brake signal from your towed car will override the turn signal sent by your RV when you slow down to make turns, creating a potential hazard.

11156300 Hopkins Plug-In Simple Dinghy Towing Harness

Replaces 56300

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

California residents: click here

Video of Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Hopkins Tail Light Wiring Harness Installation - 2011 Honda CR-V

Today on our 2011 Honda CRV, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Hopkins Custom Taillight Wiring Kit for towed vehicles, part number HM56300. Here's what our kit's going to consist of. We're going to have our T-connectors that will go between the taillights, for the left and the right side. We're also going to have a diode converter. This is going to help cut down on any back feeding that may happen into your vehicle from your RV should there be a short. We'll also have a four pole flat connector that we can wrap to the front of the vehicle to plug into the back of our coach, and a weather tight cap to help seal it up.

It does come with some zip ties, a couple of screws and a mounting bracket, should you decide to mount the four pole flat on the front of your vehicle, and some dielectric grease. We're going to go ahead and take out the interior panels here, the bottom. We're going to need to remove this sill plate here first. It's going to have two hooks down here that have ten millimeter bolts, one on this side and one on the other side. Next thing we'll have to remove is these two push pin fasteners here. These are going to operate differently than most.

You're going to push down on the center, then we can pop it up out of the way. Then, we can just grab firmly and we're going to pull straight up and remove our panel. Our next step is we're going to remove these two push pins, one on the other side, so we'll use a panel tool or you can use a flat blade screwdriver, it's going to pop out pretty easy. Take both of those out and set those aside. Then, we can reach in here and just kind of pull firmly to gain access to our plugs. We'll do that for both sides.

We can pull our panel out enough to access our plug. It's going to be this large, blue plug right here. It's attached to the wall. We're going to push down on this little tab right here after we've pushed in that pin, that will release it. We'll take it out. Now, we're going to take our T connector that's got the yellow and brown wires in it, that's going to be for our driver's side and we're going to plug that in line.

You'll feel it click, just give it a little tug and the other end will plug into the back of the light. Now, for the other side of the car, we're going to have the one with the green wire and the brown, purple and orange. That's going to go on the passenger side and plug in the same way. Now before we run all these wires across loosely like this, we're going to take a little bit of tape and I'm just going to go at an angle and tape them together to make it stay in one nice little package. Now we can just take our wiring and we're going to route across, and we'll plug it in just like we did on the driver's side. Now I'm going to take one of the supplied zip ties and just to fix this T connector wire to the factory harness, just to help keep it in place. Then, we'll just trim off our excess. Now we can just slip our panel back into position. Once we have it locked in place, we can go ahead and pull our weather stripping back out so it's not stuck down behind. Now we're going to take a couple of our supplied zip ties and we'll just zip tie this wiring so it will stay up out of the way. Trim off that excess. Now we're going to need to get our four pole flat wiring to the outside of the vehicle. In this rear corner here, there's actually a vent. The vent's going to look something like this and we're just going to pass it through one of these here. You don't have to remove it. We've gone ahead and removed it just so you can see what it's going to look like. It's going to go in from the outside, so we're going to pass our wire down through this access panel and we can go to the bottom side of the car and we'll pull it through. Now, we can take a zip tie and we'll attach our module box, our diode box to the factory harness here. Then we can replace this panel as well. We an reinstall the clip on the bottom here. We want to make sure we keep our wiring away from the two bolts they're going to bolt in for our clips, which we have ours tucked neatly out of the way. Now, to make sure this is fully seated, we're going to have to remove the molding out of here as well. We went ahead and pushed the center of our pin back up so it's sticking out of the top. Press it down. Snap it til it's flat. We can also go ahead and reinstall our hooks. Now we can put our floor back in and we're ready to move on to the bottom of the vehicle. Now we went ahead and took our four flat wiring, we've come across, zip tied it along the frame, up over our axle, making sure to keep it away from any heat sources or any sharp objects. Also, pay attention you don't get it near any steering components where it might get caught up in our steering. We followed it along, under the gas tank shield here. We zip tied it to the plumbing, from the rear of the vehicle to the front and just follow it all the way along. Then, we went ahead and went up the firewall, being sure to stay away from our steering components again. We come out at the top where we zip tied it back behind the master cylinder. Then we went ahead and tied off our wiring as it came up the firewall. We're going to leave our excess up in the engine compartment for installation of a supplemental braking system at a later date. Then, we went ahead and routed along the front of the grill and we're going to drop it out down here and mount the attaching point that comes with it to the bottom of the license plate hanger. Now that we have our wire down here, we take or supplied mounting bracket, along with our weather tight cover we're going to put in there, slip this in between, be sure to bring out the cover and we can mount up here to the bottom side of the license plate bracket with the supplied screws. They'll be some Phillips self-tapping screws and we can seal it up when not in use. It protects it. Now we're going to need to ground out plug. The best place to do it is going to be back up on the top, by the battery, so we can stay away from anything down here that's going to be moving. We're going to cut the end of this off and we're going to lengthen the wire and run it back up to the top, here to the battery. I'm going to be using a heat shrink butt connector, just to help protect it when it's going to be out here in the elements. We went and got a little length of white wire to extend what we have. Put that into place, crimp it. Now, we're going to take a small butane torch, just apply a little but of heat. We want to keep it far enough away where it's not going to burn our connection but the heat's going to get to it and shrink down our cover. You'll see it start to pull down and it's going to pull up around the wire and for added protection, we're going to go ahead and put some electrical tape around that as well. Now we're going to run this back up to the top side and we'll attach it near the battery for the ground. Just pull down our access and we'll use that as a fish wire to pull our ground wire up to the top. Now we can pull the wire back up, all of our slack, as well as our ground wire. We're going to go ahead and ground it right to the negative post and we're going to take out this nut and we'll take our wire, we're going to run it up here. We'll trim it off. We'll strip back our wiring about a quarter of an inch. We're going to put a ring terminal on the end and apply that to the battery. Now we can put a zip tie on there, trim off our excess and we'll take our wiring, we're just going to loop it up, and we'll place a zip tie around this as well. Now, we're going to take some of the supplied dielectric grease, we're just going to put it on our terminals here. It's going to help prevent any corrosion. Now we'll be ready to hook up our tester and we're going to test our system. Now, with the help of our Hopkins Tow Doctor, we're going to go ahead and test our lights. We'll test our running lights and our left brake and turn signal will be one switch, and then our right. Since we have it combined, the brake and the turn signal are going to be the same wire and the same bulb, so if one's working, they're both going to work. That's going to do it for our look at and install of the Hopkins Custom Taillight Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles, part number HM56300 on our 2011 Honda CRV.

Customer Reviews

Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles - HM56300

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (13 Customer Reviews)

Wire your vehicle and get the signal lights required for flat towing without having to splice into your wiring with this custom, plug-in harness. Integrated diodes prevent feedback from RV for safe operation. Wires as combined lighting system.

- HM56300

Easy to install in my driveway and it works perfectly. 659027

- HM56300

Easy to install and works as intended. 641115

- HM56300

My wiring kit arrived today, it was three days late but no fault of E trailer. I watched the online video several times and was able to install it in about 2 hours. The hard parts were getting the taillight plugs to release. Then as I have no lift I had to do the routing laying on the garage floor. Since the Honda CR-V is pretty low slung it was definitely difficult, the fact that I am 76 and not as spry as I was some years ago didn’t make it any easier. Bottom line, once it was done and plugged into my motorhome it worked perfectly. I would definitely recommend the plug and tow to anyone who wants to tow behind a motor home. 616476

- HM56300

It's been a year and happy to report all is still working fine! No issues! 587755

- HM56300

Easy to install never a problem 457360

- HM56300

Products that were purchased were as advertise and directions were very helpful to hooking up. It’s nice that you could find some helpful hints to your project through etrailer. When ordering products all the people are very knowledgeable friendly and helpful to make sure you get the right product for your project. JD 456935

The wiring is working just fine advice to all people installing make sure you planned your wiring Route before you install that way you will have no issues or chasing wires On something you did not see.
John - 12/03/2018


- HM56300

Product well-built and a complete kit was furnished. My brother-in-law and I put it on our 2010 Honda CRV. It took most of the day to do it. Instructions were clear but it just takes sometime. Took the car and the motorhome out for a test drive yesterday and everything was working great. I would tell my friends about the product and encourage them to buy it if they are in the market for this. 421479

- HM56300
2017 Jeep Wrangler

The service in delivering the Hopkins custom tail light wiring kit for my 2007 Honda CRV was very good except E-trailer sent me kit for a 2007-2010 Saturn Outlook! I called customer service the next day around 8:00 AM and Erin , who took my call, was very friendly and helpful in making the correction. Within 1 hour by e-mail she had the return UPS label for the Saturn kit sent to me and about 4-5 hours later I had a notice from E-trailer that the correct kit had shipped. I've purchased several items from E-trailer over the past 8-9 years, including a similar kit for my 2017 Jeep Wrangler 2 months ago, and this is the first error I've encountered. E-trailer quickly corrects any errors on their part so I'll probably continue to be a customer with them. 380030

- HM56300

All the products I ordered arrived on time and were exactly what I needed. The online ordering was easy and fast. They followed up with me and updated my order status to let me know everything. Great pricing as well. 367369

- HM56300

Natalie did a super job and was very polite. Great product 365221

- HM56300
2009 Honda CR-V

I bought this item over a year ago, an it has done a great job, I would recommend, etrailer,on sales and products, and for a fair price 359229

- HM56300
2007 Honda CR-V

Looks great can't wait to install it in the car. 347421

- HM56300
2010 Honda CR-V

Received the wiring kit on time and it was exactly what I wanted/expected. Thanks 202393

Hi, did you install this yourself? If so, how difficult? Was it for a 2011 CRV?
-- comment by: Bruce N - 02/05/2016


Ask the Experts about this Hopkins Tow Bar Wiring

  • Fuse Bypass for Flat Towing 2009 Honda CR-V Equipped with Hopkins Harness HM56300
    When using Hopkins tow bar wiring harness # HM56300 you can use Roadmaster Fuse Bypass # RM76511 if you do not want to have to pull fuses when towing the car. It is not essential but it will make life easier. Please see the linked installation video.
    view full answer...
  • Hopkins HM56300 Flat Towing and Tekonsha 118427 Trailer Wiring Harnesse Be Installed at Same Time
    You can certainly install the # HM56300 for lighting when flat towing and the # 118427 for towing a trailer. Since both will not be used at the same time they will work just fine with no interference. I have linked you to install videos showing both harnesses being installed on a 2011 CR-V, as well as to some FAQ articles about flat towing that you might find helpful.
    view full answer...
  • Difference Between Hopkins # HM56300 and Tow Ready # TR118821 Flat Towing Wiring for 2010 CRV
    Both the Tow Ready # TR118821 and the Hopkins # HM56300 serve the same purpose, allowing the lights on your flat towed vehicle to operate in tandem with those of the the RV. The difference is that the Hopkins wiring harness is a plug and play installation, while the Tow Ready harness would require cutting and splicing into the existing factory taillight wiring harnesses. Because this harness wires your Honda CR-V as a combined system, a brake light relay (RM-88400 - sold separately)...
    view full answer...
  • Can Trailer Wiring and Tow Bar Wiring be Installed at Same Time on 2011 Honda CR-V
    The trailer wiring harness you have installed with the Hopkins tow bar wiring harness part # HM56300 that you referenced is your issue. If you want the # HM56300 to be functional you'll need to remove the trailer wiring harness. Another option would be to leave the trailer wiring installed and use a temporary wiring kit for flat towing wiring like the part # MT70097 which is magnetic and attaches to the top of the vehicle.
    view full answer...
  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow 2008 Honda CR-V Behind Motorhome
    Your 2008 Honda CR-V is a popular vehicle for towing behind a motorhome and we can help you get yours all set with the items needed for safe and legal flat towing. The linked overview article has lots of helpful information and is a great place to start your planning. Let's start with a baseplate for the CR-V. For this I recommend the Roadmaster EZ5 kit # RM-521559-5. This base plate features removable arms with a handy twist-lock attachment so there are no pins to get lost. The arms...
    view full answer...
  • How to Flat-Tow a 2012 - 2014 Honda CR-V with All Four Wheels Down
    In order to flat-tow a 2012 - 2014 Honda CR-V with all four wheels on the ground behind a motorhome you are going to need a tow bar, base plate kit, safety cables, tail light wiring harness, supplemental braking system, and possibly a high-low adapter. There may also be a few other smaller components that are needed depending on the options the vehicle is equipped with. For a tow bar, I recommend the Roadmaster Nighthawk All Terrain Tow Bar part # RM-676. The Nighthawk is one of the...
    view full answer...
  • What Base Plate Kit Do I Need To Use the Roadmaster Blackhawk Tow Bar on a 2011 Honda CR-V
    I believe you are referring to the Roadmaster Blackhawk 2 All-Terrain Tow Bar part # RM-422 which is compatible with the Roadmaster Crossbar-Style Base Plate Kit part # RM-521559-4. However, so long as it is a Roadmaster Tow Bar it can be used with this kit. For a flat-tow wiring harness, I recommend the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles part # HM56300 because it's a custom fit so no splicing is required. For a supplemental braking system, I recommend the SMI Stay-IN-Play...
    view full answer...
  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2007 Honda CR-V Behind a Motorhome
    Yes, I will be happy to tell you what you will need to flat tow your 2007 Honda CR-V behind your motorhome. There are 5 major components needed: base plates, tow bar, safety cables, lighting, and supplemental braking. For base plates I recommend Roadmaster EZ5 base plates # RM-521559-5. These base plates are compatible with all Roadmaster RV mounted tow bars. And when the arms are removed the base plates are basically invisible so they will have a minimal impact on the visual appearance...
    view full answer...
  • Will Roadmaster Blackhawk 2 Tow Bar Work with Roadmaster Base Plates for a 2010 Honda CR-V
    Yes, the Blackhawk 2 All Terrain tow bar will fit the XL base plates # RM-521559-4 for the 2010 Honda CR-V. Since you have already been flat towing, you probably already have safety cables but in case you do need cables use # RM-645. These are straight cables that you can use in the cable guides on the Blackhawk tow bar. You will also need lighting for the CR-V. If you are using a magnetic kit like # C-ATL20A or something similar then you can continue to use that with the CR-V. If you...
    view full answer...
  • Can Flat Tow Wiring Harness for 2011 Honda CR-V be Connected to Trailer Wiring Harness
    That is an excellent question. The difference between a trailer wiring harness like the Curt # C55106 and a flat tow wiring harness like the Hopkins # HM56300 (similar to the Curt you mentioned) for your 2011 Honda CR-V is that the trailer wiring harness sends power to trailer lights while the flat tow harness receives power from your motorhome. So even though they connect to the same circuits, they serve different purposes so they aren't interchangeable. For a complete flat towing setup...
    view full answer...
  • Is Brake Light Relay Required When Using Hopkins Tail Light Wiring # HM56300 in 2010 Honda CR-V
    The Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit # HM56300 that fits your 2010 Honda CR-V does require a brake light relay # RM-88400 when used with a supplemental braking system like the Blue Ox Patriot # BRK2016.
    view full answer...
  • When Flat Towing a 2007 Honda CR- V, Is Roadmaster Falcon 2 Tow Bar Compatible?
    Yes, you can use your existing tow bar, the Falcon 2 Tow Bar # RM-520, with your 2007 Honda CR-V as long as you do not have a model with a brush guard. The Falcon 2 is compatible with all Roadmaster vehicle-specific base plates. I recommend the Roadmaster EZ4 Base Plate Kit, # RM-521559-4. This kit has removable arms and the Twistlock brackets are virtually invisible, easy to mount and simple to remove. I've attached a couple of photos so that you can see what the base plates will look...
    view full answer...
  • Tow Bar Wiring and Fuse Bypass to Flat Tow a 2012 Honda CR-V Behind a Motor Home
    For your 2012 Honda CR-V and tow bar wiring the correct Hopkins part is # HM56304. the other harness you mentioned, # HM56300, fits 2007 to 2011 Honda CR-Vs. It also looks like you may need to pull a fuse to flat tow your CR-V. Check the owners manual to confirm. To make disconnecting power from a fuse as easy as flipping a switch you can use fuse bypass # RM76511. I have linked videos showing installations of the wiring harness and fuse bypass for you.
    view full answer...
  • Is a Brake Light Relay Required when Using a Trailermate Wiring Harness on a 2007 Honda CR-V
    The proper Hopkins tow bar wiring harness for a 2007 Honda CR-V is # HM56300. The one that you referenced is for a Jeep Liberty and will not fit your CR-V. Because this harness wires your Honda CR-V as a combined system, a brake light relay # RM-88400 may be required if you use a supplemental braking system with your towing setup. A supplemental braking system depresses the brake pedal in your towed car every time you apply the brakes in your RV. So, if your towed cars brake lights...
    view full answer...

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