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Roadmaster 6-Diode Universal Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles with Separate Lighting

Item # 154-792-118158

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roadmaster tow bar wiring universal tail light mount 6-diode kit for towed vehicles with separate lighting

In Use/Installed

2014 ford c-max tow bar wiring roadmaster diode kit universal 154-792-118158
2014 ford c-max tow bar wiring roadmaster splices into vehicle tail light mount in use
2014 ford c-max tow bar wiring roadmaster diode kit universal in use
2014 ford c-max tow bar wiring roadmaster diode kit tail light mount 154-792-118158
2014 ford c-max tow bar wiring roadmaster splices into vehicle universal 6-diode kit for towed vehicles with separate lighting
2014 ford c-max tow bar wiring roadmaster splices into vehicle universal 154-792-118158

Customer Photos

roadmaster tow bar wiring splices into vehicle universal 154-792-118158
roadmaster tow bar wiring splices into vehicle universal 154-792-118158
roadmaster tow bar wiring splices into vehicle universal 6-diode kit for towed vehicles with separate lighting
roadmaster tow bar wiring diode kit universal 154-792-118158
roadmaster tow bar wiring diode kit universal in use
roadmaster tow bar wiring splices into vehicle tail light mount in use
roadmaster tow bar wiring diode kit tail light mount 154-792-118158
roadmaster tow bar wiring universal tail light mount 154-792-118158
roadmaster tow bar wiring splices into vehicle tail light mount 6-diode universal kit for towed vehicles with separate lighting
roadmaster tow bar wiring splices into vehicle diode kit in use

  • Diode Kit
  • Splices into Vehicle Wiring
  • Roadmaster
  • Universal
  • Tail Light Mount
Roadmaster tow bar wiring for your are available from etrailer.com. Installation instructions and reviews for your tow bar wiring. Expert service, and cheapest tow bar wiring price guarantee. etrailer.com carries a complete line of Roadmaster products. Order your Roadmaster 6-Diode Universal Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles with Separate Lighting part number 154-792-118158 online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.



Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring - 154-792-118158

Connect your towed car's lighting system to your RV's to get the brake lights and turn signals required for towing. Designed for use with vehicles that have separate brake and turn signals. 4-Pole flat loop and wiring converter included.


Features:

  • Connects your RV's tail, brake and turn signal lights to your towed vehicle's lighting system
    • Designed for use on towed vehicles that have a 3-wire system (separate brake and turn signals)
  • Prevents electrical feedback and the damage it can cause to your towed car's electrical components
  • Includes tail light converter to adapt your RV's 2-wire system (combined brake and turn signals) to work with the towed car's 3-wire system
  • Contains everything you need to wire your car for flat towing
    • 6 Hy-Power diodes
    • Tail light converter
    • 30' Long strand of 4-wire electrical cord
    • 6' Long cord with 4-way flat connectors - both vehicle and RV ends
    • Ring terminal and wire connectors
    • 3' Long split-wire loom


Specs:

  • Max amperage: 85 amps
  • Max voltage: 24 V


Note: If your RV has separate brake and turn signal lights, you do not need to install the included tail light converter. However, you will need to replace the 4-way vehicle-side connector with one that is capable of carrying the separate signals.


The diagram below shows the installation of the 6-diode tail light wiring kit on a towed vehicle (or dinghy) that has separate turn signals (typically amber) and red brake lights. This kit will most often be used with a motor home that operates off of a 2-wire system wherein the brake lights do the flashing for the turn signals. The included tail light converter (118158) is used to convert the combined brake and turn signal lights to separate ones to match those of your towed vehicle.


Six-Diode Kit



154 and 792 Roadmaster Universal Wiring Kit with 6 Hy-Power Diodes and 118158 Tow Ready Tail Light Converter



154-792-118158 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details 154-792-118158 Installation instructions

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Video of Roadmaster 6-Diode Universal Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles with Separate Lighting


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Roadmaster 6-Diode Universal Wiring Kit Installation - 2011 Cadillac SRX

Today on our 2011 Cadillac SRX we're going to show you how to install the Roadmaster 6-Diode Universal Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles with Separate Lighting. Part number is 154-792-118158. Now to begin our installation we're going to take the long piece of four-pole wire that has the four-way plug on the end of it. What we want to do is just kind of work this up through from underneath the vehicle so it comes out close to the mounting bracket we'll be using for our wiring. I'm using a piece of airline tubing here. You could use a piece of coat hanger or something that's just kind of like a stiffer wire. Take one of our four-pole wires now.

Doesn't matter which end we use. We just want to kind of tape it off really well. We're going to use this to just pull it up there where we're going to need to connect it. We'll just leave plenty of hang-out here on the end because, depending on the type of motor home that you're going to be connecting to, we may need to switch this end. Now what we're going to do is just kind of zip tie this off to a few solid points to act as anchors for us.

We don't want any of our slack coming through. That's going to hold all of our slack up there towards the front, so we'll know we have plenty. Then we're just going to start routing it towards the rear of the vehicle. As we do, we're going to avoid any pinch points, any moving objects, and also sources of heat you want to stay away from. Take our other end. Usually good to pull the cap off, just so you don't have to worry too much about it.

Another good place right up here that we can throw a zip tie on. As we go along, anywhere we can, where there's a good connection point we think we might need it, we'll throw a zip tie on. Using quite a few here because we've got our CV shaft that comes through. We've got a pivot point right here and also the tie ride ins right there. Those are all going to be moving parts, so that wire loom that runs down the top of that frame will act as a perfect place to keep it tucked away. Clearly, if they ran wires through there from the factory they believe it's a safe spot, so we can follow along with them.

That starts got a little bit tighter as we get closer to the middle of the car, so what we're going to do is take that four-pole connector off right there at the end. It's something that we have to do anyway. Bring in our airline tubing that we're using as a fish wire. We can get this taped off. I'm going to tuck it right in there. That'll give us another nice support point just like that. Now I'm going to jump it up into the frame rail here. I'm going to see how far we can get that to go. Whenever we get the chance on the larger holes here, I like to go ahead and pull it all out so you can establish that point there and then we'll run it back in. If we've got a small screwdriver, in this case a little pick, we can use these access locations down here to pull that out. Now we're going to run that back in, try to get it come out of the small hole here, just like that. Right up over our filler line there, be a really good anchor point there, something we could wrap a zip tie around. Now, having some extra zip ties around can help, just so you can make sure that you have plenty of them on here. Have everything secured so it's not going to be moving around or wiggling around. Now we're going to direct this back into the frame. We'll move it back out here, and we're going to run it up over top of the exhaust tailpipe that comes out. Now we're just going to poke as much of the fish wire and also the regular wire as we can up towards that rear taillight housing. Then we can go up top, remove it, and see if we can grab it and pull it on through. Now, to get the taillight housing out, we're first going to have to take the pushpin fastener out that's here at the top. Then we should be able to first get a push in and kind of lift straight up and then just kind of pull backwards on that panel. You see the little push fasteners that we're separating out. That's why we lifted up to start, to get that little clip disconnected at the top there. Set that aside. Let's go ahead and take out the Phillips head and screw, located both here and here. We'll get ahold of the housing and start pulling it rearward to separate a couple of clips located in there. Then we'll have a small clip there to pull out. We have one of our connectors here, the green one. Separate that out. Lower connector here, and push that tab in. That one. There's also a little clip there we want to take off. That'll give us the slack so we can get our last one done here. Press in right there, wiggle that on out. Now let's go ahead. Just set our assembly aside for now. We might as well do the same thing here on the passenger side. We've already got our tools out. Now, right here on this little corner there's an access area and we're pretty lucky our fish wire came up, right up here where we'll be able to get to it. I'm just going to use, again, a little screwdriver, a little hook and grab it and pull it on out. Then just bring our wiring on up through, just like that. Now we're going to add in our two wire to three wire conversion box. On the input side, we're going to have our left turn signal, our right turn signal, that are going to go into the box and we're going to ground this out charge 00:06:39 chassis using a ring terminal. Then on the output side, we're going to have a right turn signal coming out, a left turn signal coming out, but also our stop light signal coming out. This is used when we need to go from a combined taillight, where the stop light and the blinker are the same, to a separate, or a non-combined, where your brake light's separate from both your blinkers. This is going to mount right in line. This is color coded, pretty easy to do. Let's take a look at that. We're going to pull down some slack here, give us some room to work. We know we want it to mount right up here in this area. We'll have a good clean surface there. We'll need about that much wire there. The white wire and the brown wire are both going to bypass this, so we're not going to have to worry about including those. All right, now let's cut the yellow and green right where we had it bent to mark it there. Strip back the end of each of these. Then we're going to put a butt connector on each one. Now, these are heat shrink. Since they're going to be on the outside of the car here, we're using heat shrink connectors. Those are available on our website, so you can pick those up so you'll have it with your kit. All right, pull sides there. We'll go ahead and add them to the other sides here. Trim off some of the excess wire here. We're not going to need quite as much as we've got there. Strip each of these off. We'll put a ring terminal on our white wire. That's going to provide our ground location. Now, this one we're going to tape off. Certainly doesn't waterproof it, but it provides a little bit of a barrier there to help keep some moisture out. Now, our other two inputs, the green and yellow, will go to the corresponding ones coming from the front of the vehicle. Always give it a good push-pull. Make sure you've got a good connection. Green wire there. Then for our other side, we've got the red, the yellow, and the green. We're going to trim those off too. Strip the ends. Then we'll add a butt connector onto each of those. Now we're going to be able to route the yellow output to the yellow that runs to the back of the vehicle here. Run our green to our green. That'll give us our stop light wire that activate the stop lights when we hit the brakes in the motor home. We're going to add a little length to that so we can get it up behind that taillight housing. Then, we're going to use our four-pole here to pull that on up behind our taillight. Just like as if it we're already just a part of the equation, we'll tape it on. Then if we pull some slack, that's going to bring it right on up out here where we need it to work with it. Now, we still got a couple more things to do down here on the bottom. We've got one, two, three, four, and five different butt connectors. We need to use either a heat gun or a lighter to get those shrunk. Now, if you're using a lighter, try to get down to the lower part of the flame there. Get it down there where that clear flame is. That'll leave a lot less carbon building up on there. It almost acts as a magnifying glass. Once it's fully shrunk down, your wire's going to look bigger all of a sudden. All right, we'll let those cool for just a second. While they're cooling, we can go ahead and pre-position our box. Right there looks like it would be a great spot for it. Let's clean off that area with a little bit of rubbing alcohol. Backing off of our tape there, double-side foam tape. Firmly press it into place there. Pull up any excess wire that we've got hanging here. Now we're going to kind of clean our factory wiring up some. It's going to have a lot of tape and stuff like that on it. Just want to get it kind of cleaned up to where we can get in there and see what color it is. We're going to pinpoint which wire does what so we know which ones to connect to. All right, now we've got them exposed. Great news is, we're going to be able to see them without any issue. We have plenty of wire here to work with. Get our driver side taken care of here. Now we're going to go through and figure out what wires what as far as our signals are concerned. We're going to start with our taillights. We'll have our partner in the car turn on the taillights and we'll start checking wires here for power. We're using the test light. We've just grounded it out to a metal source underneath the vehicle. Now headlights off. Back on. All right, so going into the larger black plug, the brown and white wire here is going to be for our taillights. I'm going to write these down. Now we'll have our partner use the right blinker. All right, now that off. Back on. All right, so it looks like the larger green plug, the green and white wire's going to take care of our blinker. Now we need to figure out our stop light, so we'll have our partner put his foot on the brakes. This is the last one we've got, so we're hoping that's it. Brake off. All right, so our green wire that goes into our larger black plug is going to be for our brake signal. Now we can head over to the driver side, do the same thing on those wires, and determine what we've got where. We'll start with the headlights. Headlights off. On. Off. All right, so the purple wire is going to take care of our taillights. That's on the large black plug. Brake on. Brake off. Okay. Perfect. The yellow wire is going to take care of our brake signal. Now we'll figure out the blinker. Now, on the other side it was on the green plug so we'll check that one first. Left blinker, please. Off. On. All right, great. We got the yellow and black there. It's going to be our blinker signal. That's on the green plug. All right, that takes care of finding our wires. All right, now. What we've learned from out test is that our small black plug, we're not going to have any business with that, so we're going to set that. Just kind of get it up here out of the way. We want to bring our green wire here into play. Let's get this separated. I'm using just a pick tool. Just kind of pull it to split it. Now that we've got that separated, let's look at our taillight. We know we're going off the green wire, and that green plug is going to be located right down here near the bottom, kind of in this area. We'll need at least enough wire to get us into that point. We'll leave a little bit extra. Trim that extra off. Hang onto that because you may need it for running side to side. Strip the end off, and we'll bring in one of our diodes. Now, we're going to have two ins and one out, so one of our ins is going to be the wire coming from our four-pull. The other in is going to be the wire coming out of the harness here. We'll start by getting this clipped on. Now, we wrote this down. For our passenger side blinker, we we're getting the signal through the green and white wire. Bring that down about where we want it. Snip that. Now we're going to strip both ends of that off. Now we'll add on one of our spade connectors to each side there. Always give them a good pull. You want to make sure you got a good connection. Last thing you want to do is get it all put together and then have to take it back apart. Now we'll bring in our diode. The factory is going to run in. The wire coming from the front of the car is going to run in, so whether we're getting our signal from here or from here, our diode's going to be sure that it's sent out and our light gets that signal. We've got that one done. Let's move on to the next one. Now we're going to move to our taillight setup. This is the larger black plug. It goes all the way up here at the top of the light housing, so that's going to be kind of up in this area. Again, we want to be sure we've got enough room for our wires to come up here and make that connection. Now let's separate our brown and white wire. Now for this one, we're going to be using our diode that has the large yellow one and then two of the blue ones. Start by getting our blue ones connected here. One goes on the factory wire coming out of the vehicle. The other one goes the factory wire that runs down to the plug. Now our larger yellow connector is going to come into play here. Now, for the brown wire here, we want to give ourselves enough slack. Then we'll fold that over, we'll cut that, and then strip back both sides. Not only is it going to power the passenger side here, but we're going to use this extra length of brown wire, we're going to put those together, and that's going to bring our signal from here. We're going to run it underneath the car and out the other side over there so that we'll have the signal going to both this taillight and the driver side taillight. The larger one goes on. Group 00:17:59 that down so it's nice and secure, and then this is going to go on one of our insides. The other blue one goes on the inside. This is the one that comes out of the vehicle. Just like before, that goes to the in, that goes to the in, and the out's going to be the one that comes to our plug, just like that. Now, our yellow wire doesn't need to stay on this side. Our yellow wire goes all the way over to the driver side. Let's get that down and out of the way. At the same time, we'll take the piece of brown wire that we added on, kind of get it heading the right direction. Just tape that onto a piece or a . We've got some old airline tubing here that we use. We're going to take it right down through the hole we brought our wires out before. If you poke them out through that down there, you should be able to reach in from the underside and grab ahold of it. We got our ground wire. We're going to connect that in here somewhere on a good steel surface. If we had a bolt that was heading in behind here or something like that, that'd be a perfect area to ground it out. We don't have that, so we want to find an area here where we've got good, solid metal with nothing in behind it. Right in here should be a great spot. Just like our other wires for the ground, we want to give ourselves plenty of slack here. There's no need to short us, so we'll trim that end off. To it we're going to add a ring terminal. Then a self-tapping screw right through that will do a great job of holding it in place. Now, our last connection we're going to make on this side's going to be for the brake signal. As we've learned, on the large black plug, the green wire is going to be for the brakes. Let's snip that, strip it off. Then we can bring up our red wire so we'll have our brake signal. This is going to be coming from the RV, so that'll be in and then we're going to jump it over to the driver side just like we do the brown wire. Then we'll add our yellow spade terminal onto that. Now we're going to do the same thing for our red wire that we did for that brown and that yellow. We're going to run our tube down here. Three wires coming down that we're going to run over to the driver side of the vehicle. What I'm going to do is just put a couple of pieces of tape on just to kind of keep them inaudible 00:21:03 together. Now we're going to attach our same old faithful airline tube here and we're going to work this wire across the rear bumper section here. There's a pretty good gap there that goes in behind, in between the bumper cover itself and then the main body of the car. Now with our wire in the general vicinity of where we want it, let's take our tube and kind of poke it down from the top. All right, now we'll start over here on this side. We'll do the blinker first. That's going to be our yellow wire. That's going to go to the green plug with the yellow and black wire. We'll split that wire, strip off each of the ends. Just repeat the process we used on the other side for getting our diodes on. Now, for a red wire, that's our brake signal, that needs to go onto the yellow wire coming out of the larger black plug. That plug plugs in up here higher, so we want to give ourselves plenty of room, plenty of wire to make it up there. The last one on this side we're going to be working with is going to be our purple. That's for our taillight. All right, and that'll take care of this side. Now, we've got one more connection to make and we can get it all put together. The last connection we'll need to make is going to be to ground off our ground terminal on our two wire to three wire converter. We're just going to use a self-tapping screw. We've got some good double-wall steel there. Back it out, and then we can run our wire to it and run it on down. Now we can gather all of our wires together down here, making them a little more neat, a little more orderly. We can trim off our excess here. Then really anywhere else where you've got a wire drooping or anything like that. Just zip tie it up so we can have our stuff looking pretty neat. Now, on the back of each of our diodes we've got some double-stick foam tape, or some double-sided foam tape. We're going to clean up this area back in here. We want it to be nice and clean so we get good adhesion. You want to test it, mock it up, and make sure that everything's going to go in place. Our larger black plug needs to come up here at the top, so that should be the highest diode that we mount in. All right, now we can grab our taillight assembly. Start reconnecting it. All right, we'll put our two screws back in that hold it in place. With that back in place, we can get our cover and slide it back in there, click it in, and then secure it with the pushpin up here top. All right, that inaudible 00:25:19 take care of that side. We can head over to the other side and do it. All right, we've got everything tidied back up. That's going to take care of the wiring. Now let's run through and test everything, make sure it's working as it should. All right, now we're going to go through our test. We'll start by turning on our taillights. Next, we'll do the left blinker. Then our right blinker. Then we can check our right brake signal and our left brake signal. All right, with that it'll complete today's installation of the Roadmaster 6-Diode Universal Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles with Separate Lighting. Part number is 154-792-118158, on our 2011 Cadillac SRX.


Customer Reviews

Roadmaster 6-Diode Universal Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles with Separate Lighting - 154-792-118158

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (29 Customer Reviews)

Connect your towed car's lighting system to your RV's to get the brake lights and turn signals required for towing. Designed for use with vehicles that have separate brake and turn signals. 4-Pole flat loop and wiring converter included.

- 154-792-118158

by: Chris B03/25/2015


In ordering the parts I got a little confused as to exactly which kit I needed. My motorhome has combined brake/turn signal lights & the car ('03 Subaru Outback) has separate brake/turn/parking lights. Thought I needed the 6 diode kit (which I ordered) until I had all the parts here & read through the instructions for the umpteenth time (BEFORE cutting anything) & then realized what they were doing. Turns out all I needed was the 4 diode kit. Sounds like there won't be any problems returning the unneeded parts since they were never installed. Great service there! Took a lot apart in the back of the car because of the lack of space behind the tail light assemblies, but it all comes apart pretty easily. Also allowed me to route the wiring along side the stock harness. Have a bunch of 1/2" split loom here & used it. Thought I would have lots of wire left over, but I actually had to splice 2 cut offs to make a jumper long enough to get from 1 side of the car to the other. Glad the car wasn't any longer & I didn't have to make up 2 jumpers as with some of the kits! Hardest part was finding a hole in the firewall & getting the harness routed under the dash so as to not tangle with the pedals, etc. I just don't flex like I used to. Everything works fine although it was NOT a "5 minute job". 180912



- 154-792-118158

by: Jerry B.08/04/2013


Prompt deliver of product. We haven't gotten this part of our project installed, we are still watching YouTube videos and other info on procedure. Had very little difficulties installing base plate on our 2013 CRV this should go well also. Our lights are a little more complicated but once we figure out how to actually wire to them every thing we've learned so far is very straight forward. 93187


Comments

So far, so good. Weve only towed the car one way from KS to Fl. Everything working great. Thinking about adding a receiver hitch but, will take it to the dealer as we sold our farm, and our tools and have the grandsons arent available to do the hard work.

Jerry B - 02/02/2015

9208

- 154-792-118158

by: John J06/12/2016


I bought this wiring kit because I wanted to wire my 2013 Honda CRV myself. E-Trailer has a video that is helpful in its installation . What I later found out was you need to route the wires through some covers underneath the vehicle and unless you have some means to raise the vehicle pretty high that routing will be difficult. I went to the Honda dealer and several other auto places and no one would install this kit for me because of liability reasons so now I have a product of question. I ended up at a friends garage who had a lift and we routed the wire from side to side and from front to back in about 20 minutes. Once secured in place I took the car home to finish the diode installation. Using the video it was easy to install. The only problem I had was putting the rear tai lights back in. You will need the separate the diodes as the space between the body and light housing is very close. Other than that everything worked out well. 260502



- 154-792-118158

by: Danny07/05/2014


I found the product to be of very high guality. I did not supply pictures as I would need to remove my taillights again. I had to covert a motor home that did not have separate turn signals to a Sonic that did. The materials supplied allowed me to just that. I do have two other comments-The instructions showed the wires on the car on the passenger side which is opposite from the Sonic and most others I would think. I had to reverse my thinking to do the correct procedure. Also, could you not supply unit specific instructions if the towing vehicle lighting arrangement and the towed vehicle was identified. This would eliminate the extra parts that I did not need and help the customer complete the task. Other than that, very good product. I guess it is better to have extra parts ratter than not having enough but I just thought this might cut the cost for some applications. 139352



- 154-792-118158

by: Wayne06/06/2015


Product arrived on time.Online videos very well done.Katie D. provided excellent customer service on all the parts ordered. 201238


Comments

very happy with product still working without any problems

wayne s - 06/11/2016

18525

- 154-792-118158

by: Rich L.03/05/2013


The diodes and wiring are good and worked well. But the 118158 converter produced a 3.5 volt drop such that the brake lights were as dim as the tail lights. And when a turn signal was triggered the brake lights dimmed even further. I ended up stringing a separate brake wire through the car and re-wiring my truck with a 5-wire connector. 68855



- 154-792-118158

by: Rich B.06/02/2012


This harness was an excellent choice. It took about an hour and fifteen minutes to install. Everything is spelled out for you in the instructions and if all else fails, watch the online video. The hardest thing was removing the tail light on the Sportage. I has a ball joint connection that forces you to pull harder than you think you should. I was afraid I would break the light. But it popped out and the rest was easy. Very complete and works great! The connections fit like factory. Very Pleased. 42472



- 154-792-118158

by: only1jerry11/05/2016


I did a lot of research before buying. etrailer's prices and support are above average. I ordered the Roadmaster 913-1 baseplate, Falcon-2 towbar and 154 universal lighting kit. I was completely surprised by the fast shipping, all parts arrived 3 days before I expected AND the shipping was free! Before I ordered I talked with etrailer support to ensure I ordered the correct parts. They were knowledgeable and helpful. 314075



- 154-792-118158

by: Denny K.07/14/2016


a little bit hard to get all wiring in, because I want the wiring not to be apparent and not exposed to harsh weather( snow, salt ,etc). But this setup is ideal, works perfectly and very quick when you connect your car the the motorhome. 271868



- 154-792-118158

by: Dale05/06/2016


This is my second purchase of wiring kit for towed vehicle I have bought from Etrailer. I had some questions and Etrailer was able to answer every question I had. I will go back to Etrailer next time I need products such as this. 248792



- 154-792-118158

by: Dan F07/16/2016


Pretty darn quick on the shipping. Easy instructions, 2010 KIA Soul easy install, lots of spare space for the diodes and splitter box. Had all the wiring installed, tested in just under 2 hours. 272700



- 154-792-118158

by: Dave G.07/28/2015


Very complete, hi quality, reasonably priced kit for lighting my "toad". If you have combined lights on your RV and separate lights (brake and turn) on your "toad", this is the kit. 215033



- 154-792-118158

by: David10/28/2017


A great product. Installed easily. Previous wiring experience would be good for somebody wanting to use this. It has performed flawlessly over the past year. I’d recommend it. 446837



- 154-792-118158

by: Mike03/29/2017


Nice set up. Instructions were spot on. The hardest part of the installation was removing car interior panels to get to the wiring. Would definitely recommend this product. 360002



- 154-792-118158

by: Fernando Mendez06/10/2016


I had questions and was called back very quickly, everything resolved and shipment came the next day. very friendly staff and the music is good. thanks Etrailer 259893



- 154-792-118158

by: ALEX A11/08/2016


The wiring works great, I got more in the KIT than I could possible use and I am sure I had to pay for the extras, but I got what I needed and am very happy. 314873


Comments

it is doing great

ALEX A - 11/08/2017

30646

- 154-792-118158

by: RON H.07/29/2013


I PUT YOUR PRODUCT 154-792-11858 ON MY 1988 SUZUKISAMURIA AND IT WORKED GREAT. I WENT WITH OPTION 2, MORE WORK BUT WORKED GREAT. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. 92269



- 154-792-118158

by: Ron B05/23/2017


The kit contained all you need to wire lights on a Fiat. The instructions were clear and concise. Excellent product and service as usual for etrailer. 383843



- 154-792-118158

by: Greg R.12/18/2016


Customer service was the best. Product delivered as expected. I recommend this wiring package. My towing safety comes first and Etrailer delivered. 326069



- 154-792-118158

by: John R03/13/2017


Ellen was outstanding. Very informative and knowledgable. I would recommend her advice and etrailer.com to all my friends. * 352078



- 154-792-118158

by: Bill B.06/08/2016


Installation went as designed. Worked the first time with no problems. No problems since. Can't ask for more. 259190



- 154-792-118158

by: Cliff H06/04/2014


They wiring kit was just what we needed for our application. It works really well and seems good quality. 134234



- 154-792-118158

by: Logan J05/25/2014


This product worked well with the 2013 silverado I installed it on. The customer is happy so am I. 132343



- 154-792-118158

by: Dale G08/01/2017


I watched the video link that was provided and had no trouble installing the harness. Works great! 413520



- 154-792-118158

by: Greg05/28/2016


It was as described. The free shipping can be slow using USPS but it got here. 252888



- 154-792-118158

by: Good08/30/2016


Everything was in the kit. It was simple to install 289442



- 154-792-118158

by: gary lane10/08/2014


installed in 1 1/2 hrs works great tha nks 155181



- 154-792-118158

by: Daniel L.05/16/2017


Great product easy instructions 381249



- 154-792-118158

by: Richard S01/15/2017


Works great 332660


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Ask the Experts about this Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring
Do you have a question about this Tow Bar Wiring?


  • Needed Equipment to Flat Tow 2014 Ford Explorer
  • Before attempting to flat tow your vehicle, I would suggest you consult the owners manual or with Ford for any special procedures or prohibitions regarding flat towing your vehicle. I found flat towing procedures on page 292 of the owners manual. For the 2014 Explorer Sport with the Eco Boost engine and adaptive cruise, you would want to use the Blue Ox # BX2632 base plate kit. An adapter like # RM-031 would be needed in order for the Blue Ox base plates to work with the Roadmaster Blackhawk...
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  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2013 Honda CR-V Behind a Motor Home
  • Blue Ox does make some good products and the Patriot # BRK2016 is one of the best braking systems you could use. It is relatively easy to install, much more so than some other braking systems out there. And it can be used with active power assist braking systems. I would go with it. I have included a link to the installation instructions for you to view. I have also included a link to an FAQ article on supplemental braking systems for you to view. For the BX2258 base plates, make...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2017 Ford Explorer Behind an RV
  • The Roadmaster EZ5 base plates # RM-524446-5 will fit your 2017 Ford Explorer with adaptive cruise control and without active air shutters. You will also need a tow bar, safety cables, lighting, and supplemental braking to complete the flat towing set up. For a tow bar I recommend the Falcon 2 # RM-520. It is rated for 6,000 pounds which will cover the curb weight of your vehicle which at most is 5,000 pounds. For safety cables I recommend # RM-643. The coiled design will help keep the...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2015 Mini Cooper Behind a n RV
  • I will be happy to help you get the parts needed to flat tow your 2015 Mini Cooper behind your motor home. The first thing you will need is base plates. For your 2015 Mini Cooper use # BX1307. I have linked a video showing how they install. Next you will need a compatible tow bar. The tow bar I recommend the most is the Alpha, # BX7365. This tow bar does include another item you will need, safety cables. I have linked a video review of the tow bar as well. Next you will need lighting....
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  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2015 GMC Yukon XL Denali Behind a Motor Home
  • To keep a maintenance charge on the battery I recommend using a harness such as # BX88206 with the tow bar wiring you will be using so that you can run a wire from the connector at the front of the truck to the vehicle battery. There are a couple of ways to do this. First, you can tap into the running light circuit in the tow bar wiring but to provide power to the battery the RV running lights would have to be on all the time. Or if the connector at the back of the RV has a working 12...
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  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2002 Toyota Tundra Behind a Motor Home
  • From the research I did it may be possible to flat tow a 2002 Toyota Tundra behind a motor home depending on how it is equipped, What you will need to do is consult the owners manual for your truck to determine if it can be flat towed and if so what the procedure is and what additional parts may be needed. If after you consult the owners manual and determine that you can flat tow the truck, there are 5 items you will need: base plates, tow bar, safety cables, lighting, and supplemental...
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  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2015 Ford C-Max Behind a Motor Home
  • To flat tow your 2015 Ford C-Max behind your RV you will need base plates, a compatible tow bar, safety cables, lighting, and supplemental braking. Starting with base plates I recommend the Blue Ox base plates # BX2639. Out installers have said the Blue Ox base plates are easier to install than other brands. For a compatible tow bar I recommend the Alpha, # BX7365. It is rated for up to 6,500 pounds and includes safety cables so you will not need to add any additional safety cables....
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2013 Ford Explorer
  • We have everything you need to flat tow your new 2013 Ford Explorer with your 2009 Winnebago Chalet. Before we get into the parts that you will need, I recommend checking your owners manual for any restrictions or limitations for flat towing your Explorer. I did some research on your vehicle and the Explorer can be flat towed, but Ford may have specific procedures and restrictions for flat towing that will be listed in your owners manual. There are 5 items that you will need to complete...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2014 Jeep Patriot Behind a Motor Home
  • According to the owners manual for the 2014 Jeep Patriot in the recreational towing section, you can only flat tow the vehicle if it has a manual transmission. If it is an automatic it cannot be towed with all 4 wheels on the ground. It can be towed on a tow dolly, such as # RM-2000-1, with the front axle on the dolly. This only works for front wheel drive models and would work with manual or automatics. And of course, the third option is to tow the vehicle on a trailer with all 4...
    view full answer...

  • Wiring Recommendation to Flat Tow a 2013 Honda CR-V Behind a Motor Home
  • For the 2013 Honda CR-V getting the correct wiring harness for flat towing depends on a few factors. If you are going to be towing the vehicle often then using a custom harness like # TM783120 would be a good choice. But if you are using a supplemental braking system (which is required by law in most states) then you will also need a brake light relay # RM-88400. If you will not be towing often then I recommend a magnetic kit like # C-ATL20A. This bypasses the vehicle wiring so a brake...
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  • Parts Needed To Flat Tow 2014 Ford C-Max Hybrid Behind A Motor Home
  • When you plan on flat-towing your 2014 Ford C-Max Hybrid, there are 5 things that are needed. You will need base plates, a tow bar, safety chains, wiring for the lights on your towed vehicle, and a supplemental brake system. I recommend the Blue Ox Base Plate Kit, part # BX2639. This is a custom fit system that provides attach points for your tow bar. The tow bar I recommend is the Blue Ox Alpha Tow Bar, part # BX7365. This tow bar system comes with the motor home mount so no ball...
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  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2014 Chevy Spark 1LS with Manual Transmission
  • I spoke with my contact at Roadmaster and the base plates # 523174-1 will fit your 2014 Chevy Spark 1LS with manual transmission. For a compatible tow bar I recommend the Falcon 2, # RM-520. For safety cables use # RM-643. The coiled design keeps the cables off the ground. For lighting if you will not be towing very often I recommend a magnetic kit # C-ATL20A. With this kit you will not have to cut into the vehicle wiring for installation. If you plan on towing the Spark often then I...
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  • Wiring 2012 Cadillac SRX so that Third Brake Light Operates While Flat Towing
  • Although it is not required by law, you can indeed tie in the third brake lamp so that it operates when your SRX is connected to the motorhome. You will need an additional diode, part # RM-790 to prevent backfeed into the SRX. The diode would be wired as shown in the diagram I have produced for you. I have looked online and have not been able to find any information regarding the location of the wiring harness that feeds the third brake light. Your best bet would be to check behind the...
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  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2013 Chevy Captiva Behind a Motor Home
  • I found an online copy of the owners manual for the 2013 Chevy Captiva and in section 10-70 it does indicate that you can flat tow the vehicle (front wheel drive and all wheel drive). Consult your owners manual for additional flat towing information. You will need base plates, tow bar, safety cables, lighting, and supplemental braking to flat tow a vehicle. For base plates you can use Blue Ox base plates # BX3332 that you referenced. For a compatible tow bar I reocmmend the Alpha, #...
    view full answer...

  • Can a 2012 Honda Civic with Automatic Transmission be Flat Towed Behind a Motor Home
  • While there are people that flat tow the 2012 Honda Civic automatic, I have found that Honda states that the vehicle should not be flat towed. You will want to consult the owners manual to verify the flat tow-ability of the vehicle. If the owners manual says not to then I do not recommend going against what Honda says. If you find that the vehicle can be flat towed then there are 5 items you will need: base plates, tow bar, safety cables, lighting, and supplemental braking. Blue Ox base...
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  • Wiring Kit to Flat Tow a 2012 Fiat 500 Sport Behind a 2010 Newmar Baystar
  • There are a few options for wiring your 2012 Fiat 500 Sport to flat tow behind the motor home. First, if you will not be towing the vehicle very often, I recommend a magnetic kit, # C-ATL20A. The next two options are more permanent for frequent flat towing. The first option is a diode kit, # 154-792-118158. The Fiat does have a separate system (turn signal independent of brake lights) so extra diodes are needed which are included with the kit. With this system, you will need to splice...
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  • Flat Towing a 2000 Jeep Cherokee XJ with Front Mount Hitch
  • First, I recommend checking your owner's manual to verify that your vehicle is able to be recreationally towed. Based on my research, the 4 wheel drive model should be find to be flat towed, but the rear wheel drive model may not. The baseplate should not be attached to the front mount hitch. The hitch is not rated or designed for the kind of stress caused by flat towing. The front hitch and the base plates would occupy the same space, and would not both be able to be used. The...
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  • Flat Towing Wiring for Suzuki Samurai with Separate Tail Lights
  • Although there are two different methods of wiring a towed vehicle that uses separate turn signals, we recommend using the 6 diode kit part # 154-792-118158, which includes the converter you mentioned. I will link you to several of our flat towing FAQ articles, one of which will tell you exactly how to wire your Samurai. Refer to Option # 2 on the Diode Installation Instructions for a Dinghy with Separate Tail Light Wiring FAQ page. Keep in mind that in addition to a tow bar, base...
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  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Behind a 2007 GMC Sierra 2500
  • In order to flat tow a vehicle, the very first thing you are going to want to do is consult the owners manual in the recreational towing section to determine the correct towing procedure. If you find that the vehicle can be flat towed then you will need 5 items. First you will need base plates on the vehicle being towed or the Toad. The base plates provide the proper safe and secure attachment point for the tow bar. You can use base plates # 1425-1. I have included a link to a video...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2001 Chevy Tracker Behind a Motor Home
  • I found a copy of the owners manual online for the 2001 Chevy Tracker and found that you can flat tow it (see section 4-44 in the owners manual). There are specific procedures outlined in the manual that you will need to follow. There are at least 5 items you will need to flat tow the Tracker. First you will need base plates like # 1012-1. The base plates provide a safe and secure attachment point for the tow bar, which is the next item you will need. For a compatible tow bar I recommend...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed To Flat Tow A 2004 Honda Civic Behind Motorhome
  • To flat tow your 2004 Honda Civic you will need vehicle specific base plates, a tow bar, safety chains, a supplemental braking system, tow wiring for your Civic, and a wiring extension. For base plates, I recommend a Blue Ox Base Plate Kit. If your Civic is a Hybrid, you will want to use # BX2236. If your Civic is a standard model, not SI, SIR, or Hybrid, you will want to use # BX2234. I recommend the Blue Ox Alpha Tow Bar # BX7365 to use with the Blue Ox baseplates. The Alpha tow...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2010 Honda Fit With a Class A Winnebago Journey 34
  • We have everything that you will need to flat tow your 2010 Honda Fit with automatic transmission behind your Class A Winnebago Journey 34. The Roadmaster Falcon 2 Tow Bar, # RM-520, is a great idea and is one of our most popular tow bars that we sell. You may also be interested in the Falcon All Terrain Tow Bar, # RM-522, as well. I have attached installation instructions and video links for both tow bars for you to compare. The additional items that you will need are a base plate...
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  • 2 Wire to 3 Wire Tow Vehicle Taillight Adapter for 2006 Chevrolet Colorado
  • You definitely can use the 4 diodes you purchased, # 48955, to wire your 2006 Chevrolet Colorado to be towed behind your Motorhome. Along with the connector you purchased and the diodes you will need an appropriate length of Bonded 4 Wire, # 16-4B-1. I would recommend about 30 feet. When wiring the taillights your brake and turn signal will use the same filament in the brake light bulb with a 4 diode kit. I have added a wiring diagram for you to make the process easier. To eliminate...
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  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2003 Chevy Tracker behind a Motor Home
  • You will need to look up a 2003 Chevy Tracker because Geo ended in 1997. For a 2003 Chevy Tracker you can use the Blue Ox base plates # BX1636. For a compatible tow bar I recommend the Blue Ox Acclaim, # BX4330. It is rated for 5,000 pounds and also includes another item you will need, safety cables. I have included a link to the installation instructions for you to view. Next you will need a lighting solution. If you will not be towing the Tracker very often I recommend a magnetic...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe Behind a Motor Home
  • There are 5 basic components you will need to flat tow a vehicle: base plates, tow bar, safety cables, lighting, and supplemental braking. You will also need to check the vehicle owners manual to determine if the vehicle can be flat towed and for the proper procedure for towing the vehicle. Base plates provide a safe attachment point for the tow bar. There are several options for a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe. If you have a 6 cylinder, you can use # BX2322. The most popular tow bar for...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Tow 2005 Honda Pilot Behind 2014 Thor Hurricane 34E Motorhome
  • To start, I have included an article which covers the 5 basic components required for flat towing. I will cover each of these for your 2005 Honda Pilot. 1) Tow Bar - You already mention that you plan to use the RoadMaster Falcon 2 Tow Bar, # RM-520. This tow bar has a 6,000 lb capacity and works with all Roadmaster vehicle-specific base plates, EZ, MS, MX, XL and standard. 2) Base Plate Kit - Roadmaster XL Custom Base Plate Kit for 2005 Honda Pilot, # 1544-1. 3) Safety Cables -...
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  • Recommended Setup to Flat Tow a 2017 Cruze Hatchback Manual Transmission
  • Unless the 3rd brake light on your 2017 Chevrolet Cruze is activated by one of your side tail lights, the Roadmaster 6-Diode Universal Wiring Kit # 154-792-118158 will only activate the tail lights on the left and right side of your Cruze. I have attached a video of this kit being installed on a 2014 Ford C-Max that you can use as a reference. As for the fuses, I took a look at the online version of your manual and saw that if you are flat towing the Cruze with the manual transmission...
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  • Which Tow Bar Should Be Used with Roadmaster EZ Base Plates for 2010 Dodge Caliber
  • With Roadmaster base plates, like the EZ Base Plate Kit # 52281-1 that are confirmed to fit the 2010 Dodge Caliber excluding SRT-4, you will want to use a Roadmaster tow bar to ensure the base plates and tow bar are compatible. I recommend the Roadmaster Falcon Tow Bar, Motor Home Mount # RM-520. A motor home mount tow bar fits into the trailer hitch receiver on the motor home or tow vehicle and will store on the motor home when not in use. The quick-disconnect system on the Falcon...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2012 Honda CR-V Behind a Motor Home
  • I will be happy to help you with the parts you will need to start the next chapter in your lives. There are at least 5 things you will need to flat tow your 2012 Honda CR-V: base plates, tow bar, safety cables, lighting, and supplemental braking. For base plates the most popular option are the Roadmaster EZ4 base plates # RM-521567-4. I have linked a video showing how these base plates install. For a compatible tow bar the most popular option is the Falcon 2 # RM-520. I have linked...
    view full answer...


Do you have a question about this Tow Bar Wiring?




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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Expert Research:
Jackie C
Expert Research:
Michael L
Video Edited:
Zack K
Written by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Expert Research:
John H
Updated by:
Adele M
Video by:
Andrew L
Expert Research:
Adam R
Updated by:
Rachael H
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Video by:
Alan C
Video Edited:
Sue W
Test Fit:
Randy B
Updated by:
Sarah W

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