FITS 2016 Ford F-150
Roadmaster BrakeMaster System w BrakeAway for RVs w Air or Air Over Hydraulic Brakes - Proportional

Roadmaster BrakeMaster System w BrakeAway for RVs w Air or Air Over Hydraulic Brakes - Proportional

Item # RM-9160

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Tow Bar Braking Systems
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2016 Ford F-150

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RM-9160 - Air Brakes,Air Over Hydraulic Brakes Roadmaster Tow Bar Braking Systems
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Roadmaster tow bar braking systems for your 2016 Ford F-150 are available from etrailer.com. Installation instructions and reviews for your Ford tow bar braking systems. Expert service, and cheapest tow bar braking systems price guarantee. etrailer.com carries a complete line of Roadmaster products. Order your Roadmaster BrakeMaster System w BrakeAway for RVs w Air or Air Over Hydraulic Brakes - Proportional part number RM-9160 online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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2016 Ford F-150 - Roadmaster BrakeMaster System w BrakeAway for RVs w Air or Air Over Hydraulic Brakes - Proportional

  • Brake Systems
  • Roadmaster
  • Proportional System
  • Fixed System
  • Air Brakes
  • Air Over Hydraulic Brakes
  • Not Power Assist Brake Compatible
  • Recurring Set-Up

Truly proportional braking system with breakaway connects directly to your motor home's air brakes and applies the brakes in your towed car using the same force that you apply to the brakes in your RV. Lightweight actuator removes for storage.


Features:

  • Supplemental braking system applies towed vehicle's brakes in proportion to braking action of RV
    • Towed car's brakes are activated at the same time and with the same intensity as those in your motor home
  • Truly proportional system uses the air pressure from your RV's brakes to apply the brake pedal in your car
    • Connects to RV's air or air-over-hydraulic brakes to sense when and how those brakes are applied
    • Ensures synchronized, reliable braking
  • No false braking
    • Coach air brakes must be activated for system to apply towed car's brakes
  • LED display mounts in motor home to alert you when the towed vehicle's brakes are applied
    • Connects to towed car's brake light switch to ensure proper reading
  • Compact, lightweight actuator is easy to connect, disconnect, and store
    • Custom seat bracket (sold separately) is required to complete installation
    • Universal floor plate (450650-01 - sold separately) can be used if a custom option is not available
  • BrakeAway device brings towed car to a controlled stop in the event of separation
  • System meets the braking requirements of both the US and Canada
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Application: motor homes with air brakes or air-over-hydraulic brakes
  • Cylinder length: approximately 2'


Automatic, Truly Proportional Braking

BrakeMaster offers truly proportional, synchronized braking by connecting directly to your RV's air or air-over-hydraulic brakes. The air cylinder that attaches to your towed vehicle's brake pedal will apply your car's brakes at the same time and with the same intensity as you apply the brakes in the RV. To achieve this proportional braking, the BrakeMaster uses air pressure from your coach's brakes to depress the brake pedal in your towed car. The result is uniform, real-time braking that mirrors the slowing or stopping action of your coach.


Many other proportional systems activate the towed car's brakes based solely on inertia. With this kind of setup, any activity that affects the forward momentum of your towed car - from the coach actually braking, to driving over a pothole - can activate the supplemental braking system and apply your towed car's brakes. This potential for false braking, which can occur simply from driving over uneven terrain, can create a rough ride for you in the RV and can also wear out your towed car's brakes over time. The BrakeMaster is different, though. Because it is tied into your coach's brakes and is not dependent on inertia, this system activates only when you apply the brakes in your RV, so there is no false braking.


This braking system will work with almost any RV that has air or air-over-hydraulic brakes. It will also fit nearly any car, although a seat adapter may be required for installation in certain vehicles.


Installation and Easy Connection

The BrakeMaster connects directly to your RV's air or air-over-hydraulic brakes, making the installation on the RV side quite involved. An advanced mechanical background is required. Once you have successfully tapped into the RV's brakes, use the included hose to connect your RV brake line to BrakeMaster's actuating cylinder. A custom seat adapter (sold separately) is required to secure the cylinder to the floor in your towed car. If a custom bracket is not available for your application, then a universal floor plate (450650-01 - sold separately) can be used instead. The clamp on the opposite end of the cylinder attaches to your car's brake pedal. When you apply the brakes in your RV, air will travel from the RV to the cylinder. The cylinder will then transfer that air pressure to the actuating arm, which will apply the brake pedal in the towed car.


Once the BrakeMaster is completely installed, connecting and disconnecting is quick, easy, and requires no tools or adjustments. To disconnect the system, just remove the clamp from the brake pedal, unclip the cylinder from the mounting bracket, and disconnect the air hose. To connect again later, simply attach the clamp to the pedal, secure the cylinder to the bracket on your floor or seat adapter, and reconnect to the air hose.


Breakaway Device

BrakeAway

In the unlikely event that your vehicle separates from your motor home, the included breakaway system will give you peace of mind. Just mount the breakaway switch at the front of your towed car and wire it to both your battery and to the BrakeAway air reservoir. The air reservoir connects to the actuator that presses the brake pedal in your towed car. If your towed car separates from your motor home, the pin in the breakaway switch will be pulled out, which will send a signal to the BrakeAway to activate. The BrakeMaster actuator will then be signaled to press your towed car's brake pedal, bringing your vehicle to a stop.


Monitor Alerts

Most supplemental braking systems have methods of letting you know you when the system is activated, but they don't necessarily inform you of whether or not the brake pedal is being depressed. Such setups leave opportunities for false notification, which can be dangerous and potentially damaging. If the system activates but doesn't depress your car's brake pedal, then your RV's brakes will be taxed because they will have to brake for the towed car as well. On the other hand, if the system isn't properly positioned, it could be pressing your car's brake pedal continuously, which could damage your vehicle. BrakeMaster's system is different. The included LED monitor connects to your towed car's brake light switch. When your car's brake light goes on or off, so does the notification light. This way you'll always know whether or not your car's brake pedal is being pressed.



9160 Road Master Brake Master Supplemental Braking System with Breakaway - Air and Air Over Hydraulic Brakes



RM-9160 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details RM-9160 Installation instructions

Video of Roadmaster BrakeMaster System w BrakeAway for RVs w Air or Air Over Hydraulic Brakes - Proportional


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Roadmaster BrakeMaster System Installation - 2017 Ford F-150

Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Ford F150, we're going to be installing Road Masters Brake Masters system. In conjunction with Road Masters Brake Master custom fit seat adapter, part number RM-88316. In conjunction with Road Masters brake light relay kit, part number RM-88400. The Brake Master supplemental braking system for your towed vehicle is going to be truly proportional. It's going to use the same air supply from your RV's brakes to apply the brakes inside your vehicle. With this system, there's no inertia sensor.

It gets the same direct supply. So it's going to apply your brake with the same intensity as your RV does.This is especially convenient when driving over uneven surfaces where an inertia based system may apply the brakes when they weren't intended to be applied, wearing out the brakes on your vehicle faster than they should. When you're ready to two your vehicle, you took it up to your tow bars, get it in tow mode. And you just place your cylinder in place. Mounting to the anchor point, and to your pedal.

And then when you're doing using it, you can pull it out. So you don't have to worry about any annoying cylinder that may still be on your pedal.The air supply travels from your RV to your vehicle through quick connect ports and the hose provided. Along that, you'll also have a wire that will tell when the brake is being depressed in the vehicle, send that signal up to the cab in your RV. Now here we are in the RV, and you can see when we hit the brake in our RV, the indicator shows us that the brake in our vehicle is being applied as well. Also included in your kit is a break away switch.

So in case there was a disconnect going down the road, in the case of an emergency this would apply the brakes in the vehicle slowing it down.Mounted in your vehicle, you have a reservoir cylinder with the relay on it that will use that air that has been stored to apply the brakes if the break away switch is pulled. Your reservoir cylinder is located here. At the bottom of the reservoir cylinder there's a petcock for draining any moisture that may collect in it. What's great about this system is that you've got a warning indicator inside your RV. So if you don't have any kind of rear view camera, you can see that it's being applied.

And that it's directly proportional getting that same air supply from your RV.We'll begin our install here at the front by removing some of our panels. This will give us some more access to install the following components that we're going to have. Begin by removing the two push pins, holding the inlet for your air filter. You can do this with a flat bladed screwdriver, or a trim panel remover tool. Pry up on the middle, and then remove the entire fin. Now remove the eight pins holding in this trim panel cover here. And now remove your panel, and set it aside.Now to give ourselves some extra room mounting our cylinder, we're going to remove the air in here. You can do that by removing the eight millimeter head bolt here. To help you get it out easier, if you do a twisting motion, that makes it a little easier to get it out. I'm going to mount our cylinder on the beam located underneath. We're going to use the existing hole that's in there to mount it. We're going to bolt through the clamp, and place the clamp around the cylinder. Get it in position, run the bolt through the frame. And thread a nut on the other side. Then tighten it down using a 10 millimeter socket and wrench.And now we're going to drill a second hole in our bracket, kind of line up where it's going to be near. So that way your clamp will hit it. And we're going to drill it out with a quarter inch drill bit. Now put your second clamp on, run your bolt through it. And run it through the hole that we just drilled. After you've got your second bolt run through there, put the nut on the other side and tighten it down.Now that we've got our cylinder mounted, we're going to mount our breakaway switch and our air connection in this location here. We've already got the license plate removed, so that way we can get better access to it. We installed our break away switch in this location. We used two self tapping screws and the bracket that came with our base plate kit to mount it up. There will be two wires we need to attach, and these will have to run one to our battery and one to our cylinder. So in order to get our wires there, we took a step bit and we drilled a hole here at the bottom.t hat way we can run our siring through and then feel it back up.We used the same process that we used for our break away switch to mount our air fitting. And we're going to mount it here just below our six bolt connector. We use self tapping screws provided in the kit to mount it here. We now have to run wires from our break away switch up to our battery, into our cylinder. We're going to use a piece of air line hose to feed it from the bottom up, to get it where we need it. We'll then take some of the wire provided in the kit and run it down through the hole that we drilled.We'll then tape our wire to our air line hose, and that will make it easy to feed it up in the way that we want it to be routed. And now pull your wire up. Strip back the end of the wire you ran up, and strip back the end of the fuse harness provided in the kit. And we'll connect these together using a butt connector. We've decided to upgrade from the butt connectors in the kit to a heat shrink butt connector, since it's going to be outside the vehicle. This will help prevent moisture and corrosion from getting on the circuits.And strip back the other end of the harness. And install the ring terminal provided in the kit. And then using an 11 millimeter socket to disconnect the nut on your positive post to your battery. Slide on the ring terminal, and reinstall the nut. Now back at our break away switch, we'll connect that wire up. And we've left our excess here so we can be as efficient as possible and have enough to run the other wire. Go ahead and cut our wire. Strip it back, and connect it to that butt connector.We'll then route this wire from our break away switch here over to our cylinder using the same technique we did for this one. We'll then strip back the wire we ran over to our cylinder, down here at our break away switch. But a butt connector on it. And we'll connect our other end to our breakaway switch. Remove the ground wire, located here by your air filter with an eight millimeter socket. And then you'll connect this wire to either of the wires on your cylinder.Then crimp on a ring terminal. Now we did opt for a larger ring terminal for it to fit onto the bolt that we had removed. If you don't opt for a larger ring terminal, you'll need to gather yourself a self tapping screw. You can pick some up here at etrailer.com to use the ring terminal provided. And then slide your ring terminal on the bolt, and reinstall the bolt. Now heat shrink down all your butt connectors.Next, we'll run our air line down through the opening in our grill. And then go up to connect it to our cylinder. That will go between our fitting and our cylinder. Once you've got the hose ran up, we're going to fuse the compression fitting on the air cylinder and hook it into the inside. Slide on the compression fitting nut, and the compression fitting. And we'll put it in the in location. This is the out here, make sure you're going on the in. Press it in, and make sure it's fully seated. Bring the nut down, and tighten it at the fitting.And then tighten it down using a 13 millimeter wrench. Make sure not to over-tighten the fitting. We'll then take the other end of our air line, and we'll cut it and plug it into our fitting at the front of the vehicle. You can get one of these cutting tools here at etrailer.com. This tool makes sure that it cuts straight and flush to prevent any leaks. We'll connect it the same way by inserting the nut fitting on there. Make sure that you have the hose fully seated. And then run your compression fitting down.We're now going to route our brake signal connector and wire inside of our vehicle. You'll have two harnesses with similar female connectors. One is for your motor home, and the other is for your towed vehicle. This is going to be for your vehicle if it's shorter. And the motor home one's going to have much longer length of wire. Once your brake wire has been routed up, we can reinstall our license plate. As we have no more wires we need to run here. It just clips right back into place.We're now going to push our air line tubing through the grommet located at the firewall here next to the brake booster. I've already taken a screwdriver and just poked it through, just to make it a little easier to get the air line through. Once you've got your hose poked into your grommet, tape the wire that you ran up from the front that's going to be your brake signal wire. So we can pull this through at the same time. Now pull your fish line until you get everything fed through.We're going to be mounting our bracket located down here on the lower left kick panel. And we're going to use some self tapping screws to thread it right in. I'm going to go ahead and drill the holes, and then run the screws in. And I'll show you how it looks when it's done. We've pre-drilled a couple of smaller holes using a quarter-inch drill bit. And then self tapped them using some screws that you can get here at etrailer.com. Now we can take the air line that we ran through. To make it easier getting through, I did put a little bit of a slant in it. We need to make sure that it's flat and flush.And now we can connect it to the compression fitting at the back of our quick connect bracket that we just installed. We'll hook that up just like we did our other fittings. Sliding on the nut first, on the small fitting. Making sure it's fully seated in the back and then threading on our nut. Then tightening it down with 13 millimeter wrench.We're now back on the outside, we'll hook up the other end of our airline to the out on our fitting here on our cylinder. We're going to go ahead and get us an appropriate amount of length. And then we'll route that over to our cylinder. We'll just make a loop to help take up that excess just in case we need to make any repairs in the future, we've got that extra line. We'll connect to this line the same way. Nut first, followed by fitting. Making sure the hose is fully seated, and installing that.And now since our vehicles brake lamps override our brake lamp circuit, we're going to have to install a brake light relay. We're going to go ahead and do that now during this installation. As the black wire that we ran inside needs to connect to the brake signal, but so does our brake light relay. So our brake light relay's going to get power from our tail lamp signal from our motor home. So we've got some extra brown wire that you'll have to pick up at your local electronics store. And we're going to run that through the firewall.I've went ahead and taped it to the black wire that we've already ran in. And we're going to use that as a fish wire to pull this wire in as well. Then we'll pull our wire in. Now we've got our brown wire inside to hook up to our brake light relay. Now we're going to disconnect our brake pedal sensor connector. Pushing on the white tab here, and pull outward to release it. You'll now need to strip back the sheathing to expose the wires underneath, so we can tap into them. We're then going to take our purple and white wire, that's our brake signal wire. And we're going to cut that wire and tap into it for our relay.Make sure you give yourself enough coming off of both ends, and then strip back both ends. Now we have our harness here from our brake light relay kit. We're going to be making some connections to that, into the wiring in the car. We'll start with our red wire. Crimping on a blue butt connector. The other end of the connector, we'll be connecting to the brown wire that we ran inside. Then going to connect our blue wire from our harness. Along with the black wire that we had run in for our brake light signal. It's going to go to our RV to a butt connector. The other end of this butt connector is going to go to the connector side of the wire that we just cut.Now we'll connect another blue butt connector to our black wire from our harness. And that'll connect to the other end of the wire that we cut. You can remove that bolt with a 10 millimeter socket. Now connect the ring terminal to your white wire. You can pick up ring terminals here at etrailer.com. And we're going to connect that back through the bolt that we just removed to get our ground. We can now plug out brake light switch back in. And then plug your relay in. It'll only plug in one way. You can tidy up your wires and make sure everything works properly.Now we'll need to tap in our brown wire that we ran inside to the brown wire from our wiring diode kit here. This is what will allow the RV's tail lamp signal to disable the brake lamp signal in the vehicle. Now twist the brown wire that we ran inside. And with one side of the brown wire that we just cut out here. We'll be connecting those with the yellow heat shrink butt connector. You can pick up some of these here at etrailer.com. And then connect the other end to the other end of the brown wire that you just cut.Next we'll install our seat adaptor for our braking system. Remove the plastic caps located at the front of your seat. It's easiest to do this when the seat's in the furthest rear position. We just use a screw driver to pop the cap up. You just get it in-between the seam and pry up. Do that for both caps. Next remove the two bolts, located underneath that cover with a 13 millimeter socket. Now we'll install the bracket using the hardware that it came with. Slide the bolts with the washer and lock washer on it down through the bracket, and it's based on the other side. Do that on both sides.We'll then use these bolts to thread into the location where our old bolts came out of. Then tighten down the bolts with a 17 millimeter socket. You can now reinstall your panels on the outside that we removed. Line that up. We'll go ahead and put our intake for our air filter in as well. We can then reinstall the push pins. And then reinstall the bolt connecting your air filter duct work, using an eight millimeter socket.Here at the back of the RV, we mounted up our quick connect for our air line. We just ran a couple self tapping screws right underneath our seven bolt bracket. And right next to that, we began our brake signal wire. We ran this wire all the way up to the front, and we routed our hosing to the surface port on our air brake system. Now every RV is going to be slightly different, but we followed our factory wiring and down the frame as much as possible to avoid any moving objects. Such as steering suspension, or any hot objects, such as your exhaust. If I found any brackets along the way that kept it up and safe, I hooked it to those as well.Just in front of our rear axle's where you can find your brake relay valve, where we tapped in our air line. And our shiny black hose there is the one that we routed from our port in the back. We tapped into that using the T fitting sand compression fittings provided in the kit. And then we took our power line, and ran it all the way to the front, through the firewall, and into the coach of the RV.After we finish getting it to the front, we came up, drilled the small hole in the firewall here and ran our wire through. Now we'll mount our LED, and connect it to the wires and ground. So that way it'll operate when we have the brakes applied in our towed vehicle. And here inside of our vehicle we've got our power wire that we ran from the back. We can now find a suitable location, we're going to put ours right here. Just checking behind to make sure that we're not going to drill into anything. We're going to drill out a hole with a five-sixteenths drill bit.Once you've got your hole drilled out, line up your road masters sticker, put it in place. Then slide your LED through the sticker, through your hole, and snap it into place. Now the wire coming off our LED light's not going to reach a ground point. So we're going to have to run some additional wire. And we'll use a ring terminal to get that ground from our body. You can pick up some ring terminals in addition to wire here at etrailer.com. Crimp the ring terminal on the wire. Here on the outside, we're going to use a self tapping screw, which you can also pick up here at etrailer.We'll then use the wire we already ran in to run this wire in. We'll then take a small piece of electrical tape, tape our wire to it. And use that to pull it back through, and bring it on the inside. And then pull your wire through. Now we've got our grand wire that we need as well. And now we'll hook up our white wire that we ran inside to the white wire from our LED. We'll hook the black wire that we ran inside to the red wire to the LED. We'll use this using yellow butt connectors provided in your kit.All our systems are installed. It's time to hook everything up and try it out. We've got our tow bars hooked up to our vehicle. So for our braking system, we'll need to hook up our break away switch cable. And we'll connect that to our brake away switch, with the carabineer here. And you want to make sure you hook onto your safety chain loop up on your motor home. And if you're carabineer's too small to hook onto your safety chain, you can just loop the cable around it and hook it to itself.We now need to hook up our air supply line for our braking system. The female end will hook to the vehicle. So remove your dust cap, and it'll just quick connect right into place. Also, for your brake signal warning light, you want to plug in a little quick connect here. On your motor home, you'll plug the male end into the female quick connect. And complete the circuit for your brake system warning light. Before you can flat tow your vehicle and hook up your cylinder, you want to make sure you've discharged all the vacuum out of your vacuum brake booster.You can do this by simply pressing the brake pedal about three or four times. Next, we'll hook up our cylinder to our pedal. Release the pin, pull the lever back. And now it can be adjusted to the length of your pedal. Hook the bottom side first, and then you can pull the top up and over. Now you can slide the locking arm back up and put the safety pin in. Now we'll hook it to our anchor point. Now we have too much extension here, so we're going to need to adjust our bottom beam. So that way we have just a little bit of pole pressure, but not too much. Loosen up both nuts using a 13 millimeter wrench and socket.Slide out the bolts, and adjust it until it's appropriate. We're going to kind of eyeball it up here. It looks like we put it at about this position. We'll have just a little bit of tension. So we'll just work it back in now. After you've got them tightened down, go ahead and hook it up to your anchor point. Use the pin provided. Slide it through both the clevis at the end of your cylinder, and on your anchor point. And then lock it down. Now take your air fitting, and hook it into the female quick connect that was previously installed.So now to test everything out, we've got our RV hooked up and our vehicle in tow mode. Now we'll hit the brakes in our RV. And as you can see the cylinder's applying the brakes on our towed vehicle, and everything's working properly. Now here we are in the RV. And you can see when we hit the brake on our RV, the indicator shows us that the brake in our vehicle is being applied as well. To get our vehicle flat towed behind our RV, we used Road Masters easy five base plate. Road Masters tow bar wiring kit. Road Masters brake light relay. Road Masters tow bars. Road Masters braking system. And Road Masters high low adapter.And that completes our installation of Road Masters brake masters system on our 2017 Ford F150.


Customer Reviews

Roadmaster BrakeMaster System w BrakeAway for RVs w Air or Air Over Hydraulic Brakes - Proportional - RM-9160

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (21 Customer Reviews)

Truly proportional braking system with breakaway connects directly to your motor home's air brakes and applies the brakes in your towed car using the same force that you apply to the brakes in your RV. Lightweight actuator removes for storage.

- RM-9160
by:
1997 Jeep Wrangler

We read and went with the instructions and it went just like it was supposed to. The pictures make it so much easier. Just want to Thank You All for making it go together like it should. Thank You All. 561419


Comments

It is working great, went together like it was supposed to. Thank You all for everything.

Georgia - 09/04/2019

60792

- RM-9160
by:
2008 Honda Pilot

Roadmaster was real slow with the delivery of the seat adapter. But Michael kept me informed all the way through to the delivery. etrailer is 5 stars all the way from start to finish. I look forward to using them in my orders to follow. Now for ROADMASTER products RM-643 safety cables quality is good work fine Delivery was fast RM-9160 brake master system Love this system instructions were easy to follow RM-15267 toad tail light/brake wiring good instructions for install RM-1550-1 base plate good instructions for install except you need to drill two 1/2'' holes you must measure and mark as there is no pilot hole. The whole system works great with the 2008 Honda Pilot RM-88189 seat adapter I have yet to install as I had to make up my own for the trip. I will say the seat adapter bracket is made just for the Honda and Acura, they had to make custom make. Thanks to all the car towed great for my first trip of 1,100 miles 692902



- RM-9160
by:
2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Love the products, more important, etrailer had the best customer service I've ever had from an online store!!! Thanks Vanessa!!! 606722



- RM-9160
by:
2003 Jeep TJ

Easy to install with some mechanical background and tools. Quick delivery. Best internet price. 283723



- RM-9160
by:

after a trouble free year of service, i can say that i love the ease of hookup and trouble. i would recomend this product to my friends and anyone who needs the product, 329785



- RM-9160
by:
Roadmaster

Got everything installed except the foot that mounts to the floor. It wasn't in the box. I called etrailer who contacted Roadmaster and they said they would ship and I should have in a couple of days. Installed everything else along with the tow bar and light kit. Followed all the instructions and all went smoothly with no issues. Just have to wait for the missing part to complete and test. 188069



- RM-9160
by:

Nice items at very fair prices. Fast sh ipping 721365



- RM-9160
by:

Product as described. Works well. Service is the greatest. I have never been disappointed. Highly recommended etrailer for all your needs. 483109



- RM-9160
by:
2017 Jeep Wrangler

Excellent packaging and informative videos available for installation. Made it easy and I saved $$$$ for professional installation doing it myself. 366667



- RM-9160
by:

etrailer provided excellent customer service and I received by products in six days. Thanks trailer. 58980



- RM-9160
by:

Excellent Product Information. Prompt Delivery.... 11762



- RM-9100
by:

Review from a similar Roadmaster BrakeMaster in Tow Bar Braking Systems


The Roadmaster Brake sys, seat adapter, and Roadmaster base kit do a very good job towing my 2013 Explorer 364751



- RM-9100
by:

Review from a similar Roadmaster BrakeMaster in Tow Bar Braking Systems


I installed this on our 2004 Chevy Colorado. Was a snap. You will need the optional relay kit too. Our RV is a 97 Monaco Roadmaster suggests dealer installation. I would go along with that too, for most people. In my case, my skills include most things automotive and diesel and street rod electrical systems. So i was comfortable doing it. 159173


Comments

What optional relay kit? Just ordered the brakeaway RM-9100, but cant find optional relay kit mentioned anywhere.

-- comment by: John - 12/30/2014

8288

It is likely that Phil is talking about the Roadmaster Brake-Lite Relay kit # RM-88400. This part is listed as a related product on the right hand side of the # RM-9100 product page.

-- Rachael H - 12/31/2014


- RM-9060
by:

Review from a similar Roadmaster BrakeMaster in Tow Bar Braking Systems


Parts arrived on a timely basis and were very well packaged. I have not started the install yet. 575188



- RM-9060
by:

Review from a similar Roadmaster BrakeMaster in Tow Bar Braking Systems


Your customer service leaves nothing lacking, and this follow-up from you is so out of character for the many web sites I have purchased from over the years. I am impressed by you and your company. I bought the tow bar and the brake system for my Equinox, and installed them my self (I am 70 years old) - and with your provided instructions and video, I had no problems (even though I was surprised by the number of parts and detail that went into the assemblies). Both systems have worked very well, with no problems. I am completely satisfied with them, and have told my friends and traveling acquaintances about your company. Thanks for your follow-up! 382390



- RM-9100
by:

Review from a similar Roadmaster BrakeMaster in Tow Bar Braking Systems


Just what I have come to expect when dealing with etrailer. Everything outstanding. 274719



- RM-9060
by:

Review from a similar Roadmaster BrakeMaster in Tow Bar Braking Systems


Ordering was easy, I verified the seat bracket by telephone, and everyones I talked to was a pleasure, all my questions were answered in a professional manor. Price could not be beat anywhere else. My dealer could not beat the price, so I bought what I needed and then gave it to my dealer to install. I have now used it for about a week driving 1,000 miles and it works as advertised, even up and down mountains using the exhaust brake, everything worked better than I could hope. Thank you 244032



- RM-9100
by:

Review from a similar Roadmaster BrakeMaster in Tow Bar Braking Systems


They are the best 159817



- RM-9060
by:

Review from a similar Roadmaster BrakeMaster in Tow Bar Braking Systems


Fast delivery in good condition . 146613


Comments

I installed on SENECA 2015 for towing JEEP WRANGLER 2012 ,and after one year I am very satisfy of this system.It is really a progressive braking system working smoothly and efficiency . PS : sorry for my english , I am a french speaker.

ARMAND L - 08/13/2015

14206

- RM-9100
by:

Review from a similar Roadmaster BrakeMaster in Tow Bar Braking Systems


Just recieved product and have not used it. People that I talked with indicated that it was a good product and that is why I ordered it. 108991



- RM-9100
by:

Review from a similar Roadmaster BrakeMaster in Tow Bar Braking Systems


every thing looks fine 77914


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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Michael L
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
John H
Expert Research:
Brandon M
Expert Research:
Adam R
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Kathleen M
Test Fit:
Randy B
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
David F
Updated by:
Shelly K
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Amanda M
Updated by:
Isabelle B

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