Tired of struggling with tricky trailer hookups? The Fulton Fas-Lok Coupler features an efficient trigger-style latch that makes connecting your trailer a breeze. It's designed for a 2-inch ball and is perfect for anyone who wants to spend less time hitching and more time on the road.
When it comes to towing, capacity matters. The Fulton Fas-Lok Coupler can handle up to 6,000 pounds of gross trailer weight (GTW), making it ideal for a range of trailers, from utility to boat trailers. This robust capacity ensures you're equipped to handle heavy-duty towing tasks with confidence.
Long-lasting performance means less worry and more reliability. The Z-Max 600 finish on this coupler provides superior corrosion resistance, keeping your gear protected from rust and wear in even the harshest environments. It's a must-have for those who want their equipment to last.
Save time and effort with easy installation. This coupler is designed for bolt-on attachment to 3-inch channel tongues and features mounting holes spaced 3 inches apart. It's perfect for those who prefer the convenience of a straightforward install process without the need for specialized tools or welding.
Whether you're upgrading or replacing, the Fulton Fas-Lok Coupler fits 3-inch wide tongues, catering to a variety of trailer builds. This versatility ensures you have the flexibility to adjust or customize your setup as needed, making it a great addition to any towing enthusiast's toolkit.
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Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Fulton Fas-Lok trailer coupler. When it comes to a trailer coupler, honestly I feel like they're almost a maintenance item, especially after they've been used for quite some time, 'cause what'll happen, you know, the mechanism just gets dirty and bound up and you know it might get damaged from, you know, trying to force the the ball into the coupler, things like that. And nowadays it's almost more cost effective just to replace the whole coupler, as opposed to trying to rebuild the mechanism inside of there. And that's what a lot of people do, myself included. And so this is gonna work out real well for a direct replacement, or even an upgrade in some cases.
I say that because this is gonna have a 6,000 pound capacity but still work with smaller size trailers, so you get something a little extra heavy duty. This is gonna work or designed to be able to hook up to two inch balls and it's gonna work with trailers that have three inch tongues. So really, really common sizes there. And this will work with a lot of different applications. First impressions of this one, it looks really heavy duty.
I like how the coupler actually comes all the way down the side of the tongue of the trailer there. Something that I noticed though, so I'm a fan of these kind of your classic latch type mechanisms like this. When I first started messing with this one, the first thing I noticed, it's kind of short and stubby and you don't have a ton of space in there. So I'm just thinking, you know, after a couple of years and this gets a little harder to operate, maybe you got a pair of gloves or something on, that might be kind of annoying sometimes, but that's just my opinion. Compared to some of the other ones, here's a similar one with, you know kind of in the same ballpark but this last mechanism is a lot bigger, a lot easier to grab onto.
So that's kind of my preference. This one, too, can adjust real easy on the bottom to kind of set the tension of the ball in there to make it easier to hook up. You can do that with this one too, but you'll have to get some tools out and mess with it. But usually they're cut, they come really close right out of the box and while we're right here, I have a couple other couplers so might as well compare 'em. But when you're choosing one, you know, you kind of check all your boxes is it gonna fit with your trailer the right size ball, proper weight capacities Then from there it's kind of just preference on your latch mechanisms.
So this one's a little different. This is a Demco one, so I think it's easy latch. And how this works, you don't even have to mess with this when you go to hook up, you can literally back your truck up to it and drop the trailer right on it without messing with this. So kind of eliminates one step, you know, is it a huge deal You know, completely up to you. I kind of prefer to manually lock it down, but that's just me. And then there's other styles like this too, which are a little bit different. They kind of have a key way here and that pops open. You would, you know, set the trailer onto your ball and then that will lock down like that. You have a pin on the side there to keep everything locked in place. So, tons of options out there, and you know what one you decide to go with you know is really just gonna be your personal preference on what type of mechanism you like there. Well with all that said, this one is gonna have a protective coating on it to help keep it, you know, protected from corrosion and things like that. And just to kind of give you some measurements here, even though these are all pretty much standard, we'll go over it that way and make sure it'll work with yours. Go from the center of the bolt hole center of the bolt hole. That's gonna be three inches. That's gonna hold true for the ones up top here as well. And then if you we're to go from the top portion down to your mounting hole, that's gonna be about an inch to the center of that hole. So if your existing one has bolts in it already, they're probably the same. Chances are pretty good. It's not gonna come with hardware though, so you'll have to source that separately. The ones I'm using are 1/2 inch, 3 3/4 of an inch long. Nylon lock nuts. Make sure they're, you know, appropriately rated grade five, grade eight at minimum for a lot of applications. And you know one other thing I just like to always recommend, so when you close this, there's gotta be a pin hole in there and what that's for is to be able to put a pin through there or even a lock like this. That way when that's through there this can't accidentally come disconnected. You can lock that down on your trailer. And this is the lock that I use. It's a Flint Hill Goods one, had it for a couple years now, no complaints at all. So not only can you use this when your trailer's in storage to help prevent theft, you know, even though someone could, if they wanted in, they could get in but it is a deterrent. But more importantly I like to use this when I'm towing. That way I know it's not gonna come disconnected. And then when I'm at the boat ramp and I'm gone, you know it's a little more peace of mind knowing that my trailer's kinda locked down to the truck and it's not gonna go anywhere. So these are pretty cheap, cheap investment to keep everything a little more secure. To begin your installation, you first need to remove the old coupler and everyone's set up is gonna be a little bit different, but for the most part, all this information will hold true to get you going. So I removed ours since this is a direct replacement, I just had to pull out two bolts, get that old coupler off and out of the way. That was it. Some couplers will be welded on, and if that's your case, you'll have to carefully kind of cut that weld off. You can use a dremel tool, cut off wheel, and what I found in the past, you kind of get it going, and then you can come in with a pry bar or chisel especially if you have an air chisel and work that off and pry that off there. But be careful not to damage the actual tongue of the trailer. So once that's out of the way, inspect it. You know, ours is in really good shape, but you can always sand it down, get a fresh coat of paint on there, and then start with the fresh base there. So, with that all done, we can get ready to get our coupler on. Go ahead and grab our new coupler and drop this on, and in our case the holes in it line up with the existing holes in the trailer. So I'm just gonna take my old bolts 'cause they are in good shape and run them through. Like I said, everyone set, it'll be a little different if let's say for example, you had a coupler on originally that was welded, you don't wanna weld the new one on. You would have to hold this down flat, make sure it's square and drill half inch holes. You know, you can use these holes as a guide, or if you're gonna weld it, hold it on flat, tack it, and then go around and and finish it up. So pretty straightforward, not a whole lot to it, but we'll go ahead and get our nut started. And I like to get it kind of snug here, and I try to push this down flat, you know, onto the tongue of the trailer. That way it sits good and it'll help pull the trailer a little bit better, too, if it's like that. But I got a torque wrench and I'm just torquing this down to the manufacturer specifications. And that'll finish up our look at of the Fulton Fas-Lok trailer coupler.
Great quality////great service!
Better than expected.
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