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Vision X LED Lighting Kit for Truck Beds - 3' Long

Vision X LED Lighting Kit for Truck Beds - 3' Long

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Light up your truck bed, truck toolbox, or the ground beneath your nerf bar with this LED light strip. 3' Long strip is encased in durable, impact-resistant tubing so it can be bent to track along contours. Wiring and zip ties included. Great Prices for the best truck bed lights from Vision X. Vision X LED Lighting Kit for Truck Beds - 3' Long part number HIL-TRUCK3W can be ordered online at or call 1-800-496-5010 for expert service.
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Vision X Truck Bed Lights - HIL-TRUCK3W

  • Hardwired
  • Cool White
  • Rigid Light
  • LED Light
  • Vision X
  • 31 - 40 Inch Long

Light up your truck bed, truck toolbox, or the ground beneath your nerf bar with this LED light strip. 3' Long strip is encased in durable, impact-resistant tubing so it can be bent to track along contours. Wiring and zip ties included.


  • Light strip illuminates your truck bed, toolbox, or the ground beneath your nerf bar
    • No more rummaging around in the dark or missing a step
  • Bright white LEDs are super-efficient and long-lasting
  • Built-in reflectors provides smooth, even light
  • Flexible, impact-resistant tubing is strong yet bends easily to fit around contours
  • Included mounting tabs have sturdy 3M tape for attaching strip
  • 2-Wire harness includes quick-splice connectors to ease installation
    • Switch sold separately


  • Quantity: 1 light strip
  • Strip length: 36"
  • Power draw: 0.67 amps
  • Input voltage: 12V DC
  • 1-Year warranty

4008885 VisionX LED Light Strip - 36" Long

Video of Vision X LED Lighting Kit for Truck Beds - 3' Long

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Vision X Truck Bed LED Lighting Kit Installation - 2014 Ram 2500

Today on our 2014 RAM 2500, we're going to be installing the VisionX LED lighting kit for Truck beds. This is the 4-foot long model, part number HIL-TRUCK4W. It's also available in a 3 foot length, part number HIL-TRUCK3W. We're also going to be using the Pilot LED micro push button toggle switch, part number PL-SW28B. As you can see, our blue light is on on our switch here. That's going to indicate that we've got power to our light. We'll just give it a press.

As you can see, it lights up nicely. Here you can see that we've thrown in a few items. We've got a bucket, a box, and just a can of wipes there. That's with out light off. Once we turn our light on, you can actually see it really lights up the bed of the truck, and it's going to help us identify different things in there when we can't see them. When we receive our bed light kit, we're going to have, of course, our 4-foot LED bed light.

It's going to have about 8' or 9' of power wire and negative wire, that way you can get to many different locations to make your connection. We're going to have a couple splicers, a couple blades. They're going to send us a few zip ties and also 6 sticky-sided connectors. Those zip ties are made to run right threw there. You can wrap it around the light and give it some additional support.

A few extra things that we're going to have are a couple small self-tapping screws. We're going to use those to go right here through the end and make our connections. We've also got a couple of heat-shrink butt connectors, wire cutters, and crimping tool. We're going to decide where we want to mount our light. Of course, we want it to be on the side rail of the truck here. We've got a pretty good spot picked out right here underneath this rail.

It's going to offer us a little bit of protection, but you can decide where you want it mounted. I just kind of want to get everything squared up. Take just a second there to mark our hole location. That will give me a good point for reference there. Now, let me mark the one in the front. Now that we've got a couple little marks there, we're going to use a couple self-tapping screws. We'll go right in through the hole there and mount it right to the bed of the truck. Now, we're going to take our wire and run it through whatever location we can. As you can see, we've kind of got that rail there that we're going to use, but you can use any existing hole that's in the bed of your truck or even make your own. Our customer today requested that we actually hide our connectors in behind this panel, and we're going to run the power wire right down through this tube, which runs down through an existing hole. We're also going to be using the Pilot toggle switch. This is a small micro LED that's going to come on when we've got power supplied to it. It's a real easy push button operation. As you can see here on the rear, we've got some double-sided tape. We're going to have our cut off power wire and also our ground wire. Once we've supplied power to it, we'll show you how that light up looks. With out wiring up in place here, we're just going to pull back the length I need, and we'll start getting it wired up. One wire is going to have a white stripe running down it, one wire is solid black. Keep in mind which one you're using for power and which one you're using as ground. It doesn't matter one way or another. We'll just strip off our wire ends and give them a twist. As you can see, our switch has a nice long lead on it. You just cut it and trim it to whatever length you need. Now, let's just trim back our wire. When we hook up our switch, we'll want either the red or the white to be hooked up to the power source going to our light. We'll want the other end to be hooked into the wire that runs down to connect to our 12-volt power source. The black one, we're going to connect that with our other ground wire for a light that's going to be heading down to our ground location. We'll start by putting a heat shrink butt connector on the switch's wire side. We can crimp it down. Then, we'll connect the other side to the light bar's power wire, which as I mentioned before it can be either one of the 2 black wires. Then, we'll crimp it down as well. We're now going to take the light bar's black wire and the switch's black wire and twist them together. This is going to form a common ground point. We'll place these wires into the end of a butt connector, crimp it down, and to the other end, we'll add the wire that we're going to run to the underneath and ultimately ground out to the car's frame. We'll add another butt connector to the wire that is run below the car that we're going to connect to the power. We'll add the red wire from the light switch to the end of this connector. After we've got all these connections made and crimped down, we'll use a heat gun to heat up the connections and shrink them down. If you don't have a heat gun to use at home, a lighter will work just as well. Don't get it too close though, it might put a little black carbon buildup on it. Now, we can just take a little bit of electrical tape, and we're going to clean this look up a little bit. Now that we've got that sealed up with our heat shrink butt connectors but also a nice layer of tape around there to give us a little extra protection, we can re-position our bracket that was here. We'll clean off a small surface here to mount our switch. As you can see, we've got our wires tucked away, and we're ready to wire it up. Now, we'll just take our wire, and as the customer requested, we're going to run it right through the drain tube here. As we said before, any standard or pre-drilled hole or hole you want to drill in the bed is going to work fine. We raised the truck up so we can get a good look underneath it. As you can see, I've got the tag end of my wire, and what I'm going to do is just kind of run it along right with this factory wire, and I'll zip tie to it in a few locations along the way just to get over to our power source. I'll go right up over the frame rail here. You'll see we just reach up in there and pull it on down. We're going to leave ourselves some so we can follow that wire pretty closely. Now, we're going to splice right into our harness that runs back to our trailer wiring that way we can get both our ground and our power. We've isolated our red wire here as our power wire. It's going to give us a constant 12-volt power source. We're going to splice that and run our power right into it. With our power wire spliced back, we'll spin our red and black together there, our power and other one, put it in the crimp and crimp it down as well. Now with that connection made, and it's good and tight, we're just going to wrap this up in some electrical tape and clean up our look. We'll just use a heat gun and shrink these down as well. Now with that connection made, and it's good and tight, we're just going to wrap this up in some electrical tape and clean up our look. Now, I'm just going to tuck my wires up here, and I want to get them put in place. We're going to get a few zip ties and run it right up with our wire there. Now that we've got that secured, let's get out ground wire hooked up. Now for our ground wire, we're going to go right to the frame. We've got just a small ring terminal here that we're going to use. Strip back our wire just like before and give it a good twist. With a good connection there, we're going to put some tape on it too. With that sealed up, we'll use a self-tapping screw to secure it to our frame. Now, we'll just go through and trim off the tag end on our zip ties here. Push in any any connectors we removed. In your kit, we had discussed the small black pads that the zip ties are supposed to run through. What these are designed to do is you'll pull that tape off the back, you can stick them in behind the light just like that and then bring them around and tighten that down to hold it firmly up against the bed of your truck. The customer that we've got today didn't want these installed, so we're going to be leaving them off, but you do have 6 of those, and you can get 6 good locations all the way along the light to hold it in place for you. With everything cleaned up, that will complete today's look of the VisionX LED lighting kit for truck bed, part number HIL-TRUCK4W, on our 2014 RAM 2500. .


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Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee David L
Written by:
David L
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B
Employee Brian T
Updated by:
Brian T

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