CURT Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit - 30,000 lbs

CURT Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit - 30,000 lbs

Item # C640-644

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Curt Removable Ball - Stores in Hitch Gooseneck - C640-644
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Product Images

In Use/Installed


  • Curt
  • Below the Bed
  • Removable Ball - Stores in Hitch
  • 30000 lbs GTW
  • Wheel Well Release
  • 2-5/16 Hitch Ball
  • Automatic Ball Removal
  • 6000 lbs TW
Flip and store your hitch ball with the tug of a handle - no need to crawl into the truck bed to do it manually. This secure, heavy-duty gooseneck trailer hitch is easy to use and has an attractive, low-profile look when not in use. Call 800-298-8924 to order Curt gooseneck part number C640-644 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Curt products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for CURT Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit - 30,000 lbs. Gooseneck reviews from real customers.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (5)
  • Q & A (9)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Curt Gooseneck - C640-644

Flip and store your hitch ball with the tug of a handle - no need to crawl into the truck bed to do it manually. This secure, heavy-duty gooseneck trailer hitch is easy to use and has an attractive, low-profile look when not in use.


Features:

  • Quickly and easily engage/disengage ball without having to climb into your truck bed
    • Heavy-duty engagement system is secure and easy to use
    • Position-indicator ring provides visible assurance of security
  • Hidden-ball design provides a clean, low-profile look when ball is disengaged
    • Includes attractive chrome collar and cap to cover ball when stowed
  • Built-in, spring-loaded safety-chain hookups provide added security
  • Carbide black finish
  • Yellow zinc plating provides corrosion resistance for locking mechanism
  • Custom installation kit is designed to fit your vehicle
    • No welding required
    • Truck bed does not need to be removed for installation


Specs:

  • Ball size: 2-5/16"
  • Gross towing weight: 30,000 lbs
  • Tongue weight: 6,000 lbs
  • Installation tip:
    • 3-5/8" Hole in truck bed is required
  • Limited 7-year warranty


Please Note: For 2011 and newer Ford Super Duty trucks, the hitch head needs to be rotated when placed in the installation rails so the ball cylinder is towards the rear of the bed to line up with the factory punch-out designed in the truck bed. This orientation will place the pull rods on the passenger side of the vehicle.



Quick Goose 2

60640 and 60644 CURT Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with 600-Series Installation Kit



C640-644 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details C640-644 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

1999 - 2010 Ford F-250 and F-350 Super Duty 6-3/4 Foot Bed

1999 - 2010 Ford F-250 and F-350 Super Duty 8 Foot Bed

2008 - 2010 Ford F-450 Super Duty 8 Foot Bed

2011 - 2012 Ford F-450 Super Duty 8 Foot Bed without OEM Prep Pkg




Video of CURT Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit - 30,000 lbs


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2011 Ford F-250

Today on this 2011 Ford F250 were going to install part number c640-644. To make things a little easier were going to remove the spare tire, and the rear wheels that way it makes things easier to see and get to to attach the hardware. To begin our installation well go ahead and mark a hole in the truck bed. Now well go by the dimensions listed in the instructions. Well go ahead and measure from the edge of the truck. In this case, its going to be 46 inches.

This also works with the dimple in the bed for a factory gooseneck hitch as well. Well double check ourselves by measuring left to right to make sure its centered. Then well go ahead and drill out a inch pilot hole, and then follow up with our hole saw which in this case will be 3 5/8 inches, but always go by your manufacturers instructions just to make sure of the size. Next well go underneath the vehicle and well go ahead and remove the heat shield. This is an adhesive backed material underneath the bed just above the axle where the exhaust comes close to the bed.

Well go ahead and just peel that off. Next well go ahead and check to see if we need to move some lines inside the frame. Now were looking from the outside in on the frame theres an oval hole. If you can see some lines going through there blocking it on the other side we need to go ahead and move the lines. Were going to take a bracket that comes with the hitch kit and go ahead and install it.

It uses a 5/16 carriage bolt. Well run it from the outside to the inside and then snug it down. Then well take our plastic fastener with the lines and go ahead and snap it back onto the bracket. Now at this point we can go ahead and start installing the cross arms. On some trucks you can sneak the arms between the bed and the frame and some you cant.

In this case were going to go ahead and make a notch. Were going to measure over from the half channel in front of the axle about 1 inches. Well make a line and then about 3/8 inch up well go ahead and make a mark and then well make two angles from there to make a notch. We need the notch to be about roughly about 7/8 inch wide at the very bottom. Well use some tin snips to go ahead and cut it out. The first cross arm were going to install will be the one for the back or going towards the rear of the truck. Now this one has three notches cut into the steel. Well go ahead and mark them out so you can identify them. The cross arm that goes to the front will only have 2 notches. Lets go ahead and slide our rear cross arm through our notch in the bed and on top of the frame. Now well have to work it up and over the shock tower on the passenger side. Its a tight fit so well end up just prying it over to make it fit. Once we have it past the shock tower and underneath the bed, we can go ahead and slide it backwards and out of the way. Next well go ahead and do the same thing with the front cross bar then well slide it into place. At this point we can go ahead and start installing our side bracket and clamps. When working on our drivers side theres going to be a c-shaped bracket were going to install. Now to install this on the drivers side were going to have to manipulate some lines on the inside to get room so it doesnt crush any of the lines. We found that if we push up on the bracket, well push the lines closer into the frame a little bit. We want to do that just enough to go ahead and give us room. Well go ahead and install the clamp around the frame. Then we can go ahead and start installing our side bracket. Well take our side bracket and install it on the threaded part on the top of the clamp, and then install a flange nut. Then we can go ahead and install our hardware at the other side of the clamp. Well have to manipulate the side bracket in to get it to fit. Well install a inch hex bolt, flat washer, and a flange nut. Then well keep all this as loose as possible. Next well go install the rest of our hardware into our frame. Well install a inch bolt and a flat washer from the outside to the inside and loosely install our flange nut on the other side. Now at the very back of the frame bracket, theres another hole that uses a 5/8 bolt. Out test fit shows that the hole on the frame is a little undersized so were going to take a 5/8 drill bit and just clean out our hole just a little bit. Then once again well install our 5/8 bolt, a flat washer, and a flange nut on the other side. Once again were going to keep all of this hardware loose. Once our side brackets installed, well loosely connect our cross arms. Now these will get carriage bolts and flange nuts. Well install these with the threads pointing outwards. Now our carriage bolt head will sink into the hitch when its tightened down. At this point we can go ahead and repeat these steps on the passenger side. With all our parts loosely installed, well go ahead and take the hitch assembly itself and put it in position. Were going to have to install this from the bottom of the truck. Now we definitely want an extra set of hands to help hold this up while we install our hardware. To make the install of our head assembly a little bit easier, well go ahead and loosen up this bracket for the brake lines. We can also push or pull this bracket out of the way as needed to install our head assembly. Now this is a tight fit with the hole in the bed so this may take a few tries to get it to line up and pushed into place. We also found out using a jack to help support it worked as well. Once we have our hitch in position, well go ahead and install the carriage bolts, and then well install our flange nuts towards the inside. Well work our way all the way around until we have all our hardware loosely installed. At this point its a good idea to make sure the hitch is sitting through the bed and that everything else is sitting the way we want it and no lines are crushed or anything like that. So at this point well go ahead and tighten down all our hardware. Well go ahead and tighten down the center section to the front and rear cross members, and then torque them down as specified in the instructions. Next well do the same thing to the side plates going to the truck frame on both sides. And, lastly, well go ahead and tighten and torque down the side plates to the front and rear cross arms. At this point its a good idea to recheck your lines especially around the brake line area because we can end up moving the bracket up and down as needed for clearance to tighten down all our hardware. Anything that we needed to move and loosen up well go ahead and tighten down now. Now we can go ahead and install the handles into our hitch. Starting off with our red handle well go ahead and slide it through the outside to the inside of the hitch. Its also a good idea to apply a little bit of grease to the guides on the inside. Now the hitch comes packaged with the hitch ball under tension, and theres a zip tie thats holding everything in place. Well go ahead and remove the zip tie and then allow the assembly to slowly push the ball up and out of the hitch for now. The choker, or the block that holds the ball in place for now, will be loosened up. This will give us plenty of room to install our hardware so well start a rod towards our choker and then install our spring, and this can be a very tight fit. Well work it into the spring and make sure that the spring seats into the choker block as well. Once we have it installed, well go ahead and install the small hardware that comes with it, and then well go ahead and tighten it down. Now we want to leave a little bit of play in there so we can have room to move around, but not much. Now well go ahead and install the black handle. Now this we dont have to worry about a spring, but we do have to pull down on the assembly. This will be under tension so well be careful when we work with it. Well go ahead and slide our rod into place, and then install our hardware once again. Its basically just a small bolt and a lock nut, and this one is even more important to make sure there is some free play when were done because this is also a pivot point where we install our hardware. Now well go ahead and work on our safety chain cables, and looking at the bottom of the bed you want to make sure that you can feel for the down side of the corrugation so when we install our safety chain loops theyll sit inside the corrugations. In this case, we drilled to the outside edge of the ovals using a inch drill bit first to mark our hole and then we followed up with a inch hole. Once our holes are made, well go ahead from the top down and drill out our final hole size. Now youll want to drill these out just a little oversized to make sure that the u-bolt will go up and down easily. Well go ahead and drop our u-bolts into place and test fit and make sure that everything is out of the way underneath. Now we can permanently install our u-bolts. Well take a washer and push it up onto the one leg of the u-bolt, and then our spring, and then our lock nut. Now we want to tighten our lock nut where were a couple of threads past the nut and were good to go. Well do this on all four legs of the u-bolts. On the passenger side of the exhaust, we found out that eventually we had to shorten the bolts. What we did is took the nut, aligned it with the threads at the very bottom of the u-bolt as far as we can go, and then we just cut off the excess. Everything is installed on our hitch now so lets go ahead and do a quick run through of how it works. To unlock the hitch ball, well go ahead and pull out on the red handle. Well go ahead and pull it out and turn it to lock it in the open position. Then well pull on the black handle to pop up the ball. Then well take the red handle to lock it in place. To retract the ball, well go ahead and pull out the red handle and turn it to lock it open, and then use our black handle to lower the ball by pulling it out. When were not using it well go ahead and install the black rubber cover. And with that, that will finish it for our install of C640-644 on our 2011 Ford F250.


Customer Reviews

CURT Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit - 30,000 lbs - C640-644

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (5 Customer Reviews)

Flip and store your hitch ball with the tug of a handle - no need to crawl into the truck bed to do it manually. This secure, heavy-duty gooseneck trailer hitch is easy to use and has an attractive, low-profile look when not in use.

- C640-644
by:
2006 Ford F-250 and F-350 Super Duty

Shipped on time, installed easily, tows excellent! I couldn't be more pleased with my purchase. For fifty dollars more I can lift or lower the ball without climbing in and out of the bed, win! 417079



- C630-641
by:

Review from a similar Curt Quick Goose 2 in Gooseneck


Very easy to install, I did it by myself in under 2Hrs. Works great you just have to make sure you keep it clean which sometimes isn't easy if you haul any materials in your truck. Mine got stuck pretty good after hauling torn up concrete, the dust and small pieces jammed it up so the ball would not pop up. 316419



- C630-652
by:

Review from a similar Curt Quick Goose 2 in Gooseneck


Great product and easy to install. Arrived quickly with great customer service 664786



- C630-637
by:

Review from a similar Curt Quick Goose 2 in Gooseneck


Best price I could find . Shipping was quick. Easy installation. Works great. 588710



- C630-652
by:

Review from a similar Curt Quick Goose 2 in Gooseneck


ordered this hitch w/ installation kit, at 7:00 pm and it was shipped within 10 hours, and was delivered on the day as promised...i received emails letting me know that it had shipped and then a flollow up email letting me know of my tracking number...very efficient company would definetely order from them again 33685


5
5

Ask the Experts about this Curt Gooseneck
Do you have a question about this Gooseneck?


  • Does Exhaust Have to Be Lowered to Install a Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2008 Ford F-350 Diesel
  • Yes, you would need to lower the exhaust on your 2008 Ford F-350 to install Curt gooseneck trailer hitch # C640-644. It is required on 2005 and newer models that have a diesel motor. After looking at the installation details for the other hitches that fit your truck, this is something that would have to be done to install any of them. You might want to consider the B&W hitch # BWGNRK1108. There is still exhaust lowering required but the hitch costs less than the Curt, and B&W has an...
    view full answer...

  • Available Gooseneck to 5th Wheel Hitch Adapters for 2008 Ford F-350 Short Bed
  • The gooseneck-to-5th wheel adapter you need depends on which gooseneck hitch setup you have installed in your 2008 Ford F-350 short bed. All gooseneck hitch fits for your truck are shown on the linked page. Some use a round ball hole while others use a square hole. For example, if you happen to have Curt gooseneck hitch # C60720 or # C640-644, both of which have a round hole for the gooseneck ball, you can use the X5 Adapter # C16210 that provides the equivalent of industry-standard...
    view full answer...

  • Cost Effective Gooseneck Trailer Hitch for a 2008 Ford F-250
  • I do have a gooseneck hitch that will fit your 2008 Ford F-250 but the Curt Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit part # C630-644 will not work for you as this hitch is designed to fit an F-250 from 2011-2016. For a similar gooseneck hitch that is designed for a 2008 Ford F-250, I recommend taking a looking at the CURT Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit part # C640-644. The Quick Goose gets its name from the pull lever in the fender well which allows you...
    view full answer...

  • Gooseneck Hitch and Wiring Harness Fit for 2008 Ford F-250, 6-3/4 Bed with Air Lift 57398 Airbags
  • Since you have the Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Helper Springs # AL57398, on your 2008 Ford F-250, your Air Lift airbags will be compatible with a gooseneck hitch. These airbags install on the inside of the truck frame, leaving the outside of the frame open for a gooseneck hitch. One bolt will be shared between the airbag bracket and the gooseneck hitch for installation. The only automatic ball removal hitch we offer that is confirmed to fit your 2008 F-250 with 6-3/4 foot bed is the...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Ball For CURT Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch
  • The replacement ball for the CURT Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit - 30,000 lbs Item # C640-644 is Replacement Ball # C60616. Replaces the lost or damaged 2-5/16" hitch ball that came with your Curt underbed, double-lock gooseneck trailer hitch. Corrosion-resistant chrome finish.
    view full answer...

  • Will the Curt Folding Ball Gooseneck Hitch Fit on a 2003 Ford F-250
  • For your 2003 Ford F-250, I would recommend looking into a custom fit option like the Curt Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch and Installation Kit, # C640-644. The installation kit for this hitch was designed specifically for your truck making the installation much easier. I have attached a link to the installation instructions for you to check out. The Curt Folding Ball Gooseneck Hitch, # C-52, that you referenced is a universal gooseneck hitch that is designed to work with the Universal...
    view full answer...

  • Does Exhaust Have to Be Lowered to Install Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on 2008 Ford F-250 Diesel
  • The Curt Gooseneck Hitch part # C640-644 that you referenced is a fit for your 2008 Ford F-250 short bed. Yes, you would need to lower the exhaust on your 2008 Ford F-250 to install Curt gooseneck trailer hitch # C640-644. It is required on 2005 and newer models that have a diesel motor. After looking at the installation details for the other hitches that fit your truck, this is something that would have to be done to install any of them. Lowering the exhaust isn't too difficult....
    view full answer...

  • Towing a 5th Wheel Trailer with a Gooseneck Trailer Hitch in a 2006 Ford F-350 Dually
  • If your Curt gooseneck hitch is the type that has a fixed ball and the whole thing turns over then the X-5 adapter, # C16210 will not fit. If the ball can be removed then you likely have a Double-Lock, Flip and Store hitch, # C640-644. If your hitch looks like this one then the adapter will fit. If it does not you will need a different adapter. No matter what gooseneck hitch you have as long as it has a 2-5/16 inch ball you can use the Andersen Ranch Hitch, # AM3100. I have included...
    view full answer...

  • Can Fifth Wheel Rails Install on 2007 Chevy Silverado With Curt Gooseneck?
  • The # C640-644 gooseneck you referenced is only a fit for certain year Ford Super Duty trucks and there is not a Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck that fits a 2007 Chevy Silverado. There is an underbed Curt gooseneck for this truck, part # C61652-652, but you would not be able to install fifth wheel mounting brackets and base rails with it. The only thing you can do is remove it and install the B&W Turnoverball Gooseneck # BWGNRK1059-5W for a Silverado 1500, # BWGNRK1067-5W for a 2500, or # BWGNRK1062-5W...
    view full answer...


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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Zack K
Written by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Isabelle B

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