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Curt Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit - 30,000 lbs

Curt Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit - 30,000 lbs

Item # C630-644
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Curt Wheel Well Release Gooseneck - C630-644
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Flip and store your hitch ball with the tug of a handle - no need to crawl into the truck bed to do it manually. This secure, heavy-duty gooseneck trailer hitch is easy to use and has an attractive, low-profile look when not in use. Call 800-298-8924 to order Curt gooseneck part number C630-644 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Curt products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Curt Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit - 30,000 lbs. Gooseneck reviews from real customers.
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  • Reviews (7)
  • Q & A (3)
  • Videos (2)
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Curt Gooseneck - C630-644

  • Curt
  • Below the Bed
  • Removable Ball - Stores in Hitch
  • Wheel Well Release
  • Automatic Ball Removal
  • 30000 lbs GTW
  • 6000 lbs TW
  • 2-5/16 Hitch Ball

Flip and store your hitch ball with the tug of a handle - no need to crawl into the truck bed to do it manually. This secure, heavy-duty gooseneck trailer hitch is easy to use and has an attractive, low-profile look when not in use.


  • Quickly and easily engage/disengage ball without having to climb into your truck bed
    • Heavy-duty engagement system is secure and easy to use
    • Position-indicator ring provides visible assurance of security
  • Hidden-ball design provides a clean, low-profile look when ball is disengaged
    • Includes attractive chrome collar and cap to cover ball when stowed
  • Built-in, spring-loaded safety-chain hookups provide added security
  • Carbide black finish
  • Yellow zinc plating provides corrosion resistance for locking mechanism
  • Custom installation kit is designed to fit your vehicle
    • No welding or frame drilling required
    • Truck bed does not need to be removed for installation
  • 7-Year limited warranty


  • Ball size: 2-5/16"
  • Gross towing weight: 30,000 lbs
  • Tongue weight: 6,000 lbs
  • Installation tips:
    • 3-5/8" Hole in truck bed is required
    • Modifications to your vehicle may be required
  • Limited 7-year warranty

Please Note: For 2011 and newer Ford Super Duty trucks, the hitch head needs to be rotated when placed in the installation rails so the ball cylinder is towards the rear of the bed to line up with the factory punch-out designed in the truck bed. This orientation will place the pull rods on the passenger side of the vehicle.

Quick Goose 2

60630 and 60644 Curt Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with 600-Series Installation Kit

Installation Details C630-644 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

Video of Curt Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit - 30,000 lbs

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Curt Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2013 Ford F-250

Today in our 2013 Ford F250 we're taking a look at, and installing the Curt Quick Goose II Gooseneck hitch with install kit, rated for 30,000 pounds. Part number C630-644. Here's what it looks like when it's installed. You can see it's got some nice spring loaded safety chains, tie downs, nice rubber cover that's going to keep the dirt and corrosion out of her pop up ball. Nice ring that's going to help you line it up when you're backing it up to your trailer. Right now we have it in the third position, when you're ready to release it you're going to remove the red handle, pulling back, allowing the black handle to slip in, and locking the ball into place. When we're ready to stow it away we'll reverse the procedure.

This hitch is designed to haul 30,000 pounds. One nice thing about this hitch is it's going to eliminate you having to take the ball out manually and flip it around and drop it back into position. This one you just use the two levers and it's going to pop up and down when you need it. Now our first step in our installation is going to be locate the point in which we're going to drill our hole. We're going to measure from the rear edge of the bed and we're going to follow the instructions for whatever year of vehicle that you have to your measurements. You're going to measure from side to side to get our center point.

I've already marked out our hole. We're going to take our four inch hole saw for this application and we're going to drill down through the bed. We're going to take a file and clean up our hole. We can just go ahead and put a little bit of black paint to match our bed liner. That's going to help prevent against any rust or corrosion that might build up on there. We've gone ahead and removed our spare tire.

We're going to need to remove this heat shield for now. There will be two 10 millimeter bolts here, and two 13 millimeter nuts on the backside. We'll take those two nuts off first. We're going to set this aside for re installation at a later. We need to drop our exhaust to give us some clearance between our exhaust and our beds to get our center plate in. Before we drop our exhaust we're going to go ahead and put a safety strap around it.

Just to hold it in place. Go ahead and sprayed some lubricant on the grommet. You just pry it off of there. We're going to have one more grommet on the other side of this exhaust is a double hanger. For our forward one it's going to be easier just to take the bracket loose. We'll take these two 13 millimeter nuts and that will just loosen our bracket right off our frame. The rear one we're going to take the bracket down as well. There's going to be a 10 millimeter bolt going up and one coming from the inside going out. We'll take the one from going to the outside first. Go ahead and just let our exhaust come down. We can actually remove our strap. It's going to catch on the frame on the front there. We just didn't want it to drop down too quickly while we we're working. The heat shield that's located over the top of our exhaust mounted to the bottom side of our bed, we're going to remove. It's not going to go back in. We're just going to pry it off of there. If your vehicle's equipped with a gasoline engine, as ours is, through this big oval hole over our axle on the driver's side you're going to see a plastic tube. Which is part of our evaporative emissions systems. There's a bracket to relocate that. We're going to have to just knock out this plastic pushpin here. You can just knock it through with a hammer to release it off the backside of the frame. This is a line from the inside of the frame. We're just going to take it and rotate it to the top. Then we're going to install this supplied bracket using a 5/16ths carriage bolt and flange nut. We'll slide the bolt through the outside where the plastic clip came out originally. We're going to put the bracket in in this position. The long part facing out. Then we're going to install our flange nut. Then we're going to turn it up right. We'll tighten it up then we can snap this back into position through the hole. We have that tight, we can relocate our lines. It's a little difficult to get that little plastic knob up through the hole there. I went ahead and just cut away a little bit of it so it'll slide into position. Then I took a zip tie and just tied it all the way around, between the two lines, tying it securely to the bottom of the bracket. It's going to hold it away so we can get our nut and bolt in place for our side brackets. Before I install our rails, there is a front and a rear rail. You can see they both have these large notches on the side with the bolts. The rear rail is going to have an extra notch when you lay it down. That's going to let you know that that's the rear-most rail. We're going to put that in first from the driver's side. If your vehicle does not allow you slide your rails in, there's a measurement on our instructions you're going to have to notch out a little V to make them slide in. In this application I think we'll be able to get them in place. Once we have it in you're going to have to work it around the shock tower near the side. Once you get it past that you're just going to slide it back, evenly on both sides. We're going to slide it all the way to the back and let it stand up. Now we install our front bracket. Slide into the notches pointing to the rear. We're going to have to work it over top of that chalk mount on the other side as well. Now we're going to need to install our C-brackets from the inside of the frame rail before we can attach the outside bracket. If your vehicles older than 2011 it's going to use this style bracket. If it's 2011 and newer it's going to have a U-bolt that's going to fit from the inside out. Our vehicle will be using the U-bolt. We're going to take our U-bolt and we're going to slip it between the brake lines and the frame rail. We're going to slip it up into position. Just let it hang there. Now we'll take our side plate. As we put it up into place, we're going to slip this one carriage bolt into place here. It's going to be behind our U-bolt. I'm just going to have to work this into position so they get lined up. Then we're going to take our 3/4 inch bolt and flat washer. Slide this back until we get to that large oval whole. If the bed of your truck is bent down from carrying large loads you may have to pry up a little bit on our brackets to help line up the hole. We're going to take a conical tooth washer and a 1/2 inch bolt. We're going to slip it into this back hole here. We'll put a nut on from the inside. One of the bolts from the inside that's going to line that up as well. Once we have all these into position we'll go from the back side. We're going to place our conical tooth nut on the back of our 1/2 inch bolt and our conical tooth nut on the back of our 3/4 inch bolt. We're going to want to run these down snug, but not too tight, so still have a little bit of movement so we can place our center plate in position. You want to make sure to take care not to pinch any wires or lines behind our bolts as we tighten them up. We've put our passenger side together as well. The only difference we had is we have the different C-clamp style bolt instead of their U-bolt that goes through. We're going to use the 1/2 inch bolt with a conical tooth washer, followed by a flange nut on the inside. Once we have it all lined up I went ahead an loosened up our rear arm, or our rear cross brace. We're going to slide it all the way back on both sides. When we go to slip our center section in it will clear. On a newer vehicle, anything newer than a 2011, we're going to mount this plate in there with the hole offset to the rear. If it's an older vehicle it's going to go with the hole offset to the front. Go ahead and slide that rear bracket back forward. We're going to place in a couple of bolts to hold it in place. We're going to go ahead and install all eight of our bolts. We're going to go ahead and set our bolts back into place for our rear cross member. It might require to use a pry bar to push up on it. We're going to go ahead and just snug these down. Get everything drawn up into position. At this point, before we tighten anything else down, we want to make sure we have it centered in our hole, front to rear, and side to side. We have a nice even gap all the way around. That's what you're looking for. We're going to go ahead and start tightening our bolts. We're going to start with our 3/4 inch hardware first. These are going to be inch and 1/8, these bolts. We're going to follow that with our rear bolts. It's going to be 3/4. Then we'll tighten up our U-bolt. Want to make this even for both sides. I'll repeat this process on the other side. We're going to torque up our center section to our front and rear cross members. We'll do this for all eight of our bolts. Now we're going to torque up our bolts. We're going to torque the center section to start with. With the specifications listed in our instructions. Now we're going to torque our 3/4 inch hardware. Then we'll go ahead and get the 1/2 inch hardware. Everything we do on this side we're going to repeat on the other side as well. Our last thing we have to torque is going to be our cross rails. We're going to need to drill a couple of pilot holes up through the bottom, being sure to put it in the corrugation that's on the downside for our safety chain loops. I've got all four of the pilot holes drills. Then we'll go up from the top side and we're going to large them up to the size we're going to need. We're just going to use a step bit to do this process. You want to make sure it's going to move nice and freely. We'll repeat this process for the other side. Went ahead and took a little bit of our black spray paint and touched up the holes to stop any rust and corrosion. We're going to drop our hooks into place. Go from the bottom side and we'll attach them. Now we're going to take our flat washer, slide it up into position, and take one of our springs. We'll slip it up there as well. We're going to start our nylon lock nut. Do the same thing for both of them. Once we have them started, go ahead and run them down until you have about three threads sticking through the bottom side of our nut. We'll repeat this for the other side. Once we've got that done we're going to hold in on this lock, cut the tie, and let the ball slide up into position. Now we're going to have to install both of our levers. You have a red handle one and a black handle one. The black handle is going to go closest to the driver's compartment. The red towards the back. I went ahead and bent over the lip on the bottom side of our bed. It's just barely going to touch. I bent that up a little bit. If your vehicle happens to have a spot where it's even closer, you might have to notch out where your handles go. In this case we're able just to bend the lower part of the lip over to get enough clearance. We're going to take the red handle, we're going to slide into position. Which is going to be the rear most hole. Once we get it inside there we'll slip it back. I'm going to put a little bit of grease on here just to make things slide easier down the road. Any kind of chassis grease will work just fine. Just enough to keep it moved up. For the red handle we're going to slide this spring into place. Take our supplied bolt and slip it through, put on the nylon lock nut. We're going to tighten up these two 10 millimeter bolts. Now we can take our black handled rod and we're going to slide into position. I've gone ahead and put grease in the same two spots on this side as well. For this operation we're going to have to have the ball down. You probably have to release it and have somebody go inside and push it down then you can lock it back into position. This is designed to go on either of the first or second hole on this rod. We're going to go ahead and do that, move ours in. That's going to shorten up our rod sticking out, so it isn't close to our tire. We're going to install our nut. We'll snug this one down as well. You want to keep in mind with this one, we don't want to over tighten it because this does need to pivot a little bit. As long as you have two or three threads sticking out the back of our nylon nut we should be fine. Nail our safety strap in place we're going to reattach our exhaust. We're going to have to loosen up this exhaust bracket that's over top to our muffler. There's going to be two 13 millimeter nuts on the top side. We'll take this nice thick block. It's about 3/4 of an inch thick and slip it into place. It's going to go between the bracket bolts. You're going to have to kind of work it around to get it in there. For this application we're going to need the manufacturers hardware and replace it with the hardware supplied with the kit that normally would be used on a diesel. This application we had to use the hardware for the diesel even though this is a gas engine. Once we get it pushed then we can tighten our bolt, our nuts, back up on the top side. Our last bracket's going to go on the backside. We're going to use the bolt that went through originally to attach it to the clamp. We're going to use on of the 3/8 carriage bolts and flange nuts. We'll also use the 3/8 flange nut and carriage bolt going through the frame right there. We can take our 13 millimeter socket, and our 10. That's going to space our exhaust away from the bottom of our gooseneck hitch. Now we can reinstall our heat shield and put our spare tire back into place. That's going to do it for our look at and install of our Curt Quick Goose II Gooseneck hitch with install kit, rated for 30,000 pounds. Part number C630-644 on our 2013 Ford F250.

Customer Reviews

Curt Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit - 30,000 lbs - C630-644

Average Customer Rating:  4.0 out of 5 stars   (7 Customer Reviews)

Flip and store your hitch ball with the tug of a handle - no need to crawl into the truck bed to do it manually. This secure, heavy-duty gooseneck trailer hitch is easy to use and has an attractive, low-profile look when not in use.

- C630-637

Review from a similar Curt Quick Goose 2 in Gooseneck

Best price I could find . Shipping was quick. Easy installation. Works great. 588710

- C630-631

Review from a similar Curt Quick Goose 2 in Gooseneck

Nice solid unit that will definitely last a lifetime but even new this unit is not very user friendly. I have it installed on a 99 c/k3500. Installation of the unit was easy but the 2 levers for raising and locking the ball are not well designed. if you pull the left handle to far, the ball gets stuck in the down position and you have to crawl under the truck and push it back up. The right handle is supposed to somehow lock it into position but I have yet to figure out a reliable system for doing that. I had to shorten both handles to clear the rear tire and with the tire blocking the handles it is difficult and dirty to operate them and usually you smash your hands when the levers do finally go into place. The rubber cap is worthless and generally ends up bouncing out. On my 2nd truck, I went with the style you put the ball in by hand and it is a much easier unit to operate. 681232

- C630-641

Review from a similar Curt Quick Goose 2 in Gooseneck

Very easy to install, I did it by myself in under 2Hrs. Works great you just have to make sure you keep it clean which sometimes isn't easy if you haul any materials in your truck. Mine got stuck pretty good after hauling torn up concrete, the dust and small pieces jammed it up so the ball would not pop up. 316419

- C630-636

Review from a similar Curt Quick Goose 2 in Gooseneck

Get a turnover ball and don’t be the sucker I ended up. I laugh every time I think of the convenience I thought I was getting by not having to climb in the back of the truck. I don’t know if mine is defective or if this device is actually a workout program mixed with an anger management exercise in disguise. I’ve been using it for a year now, but within a month I developed a strategy for getting my trailer hooked up. First I climb into the back of the truck to cut the duct tape off I’ve used to attach the worthless rubber cap which falls off every chance it gets, filling the mechanism with whatever you have in your truck. If you ever plan to do anything with the bed of the truck besides pulling your gooseneck, haul hay, a four wheeler, anything dirty it will definitely jam your ball. After the tape is off I fight the first lever, I yank, turn, pull, twist, bang, swivel, dance this lever into the exact position. I climb under the truck and cover myself with wheel grease and scum getting the thing to unlock. Then the second lever, to lift and drop the ball. Repeat the steps of the first lever with less twisting, but add climbing into the bed with a hammer, banging the ball, climbing underneath, banging the lift arm, banging underneath, shaking, bouncing and sweet talking this POS into the upward position. Stop to spit curse and wipe the sweat out of your eyes and clean any wounds you got banging your knuckles. Now repeat the first lever steps AGAIN, including going under, going up, and under and in the wheel well so far you find whatever you ran over the other day that made you say “hmm” all over the front of your shirt. Repeat in opposite order when you want to put it down. I’m so embarrassed about this hunk of junk that I stop on the side of the road a half hour before I get to anything I’ve got to pick up just so no one has to see me cursing, crying and throwing a tantrum getting this thing in place. Please don’t buy this item, you don’t deserve this kind of punishment. 707515

- C640-644

Review from a similar Curt Quick Goose 2 in Gooseneck

Shipped on time, installed easily, tows excellent! I couldn't be more pleased with my purchase. For fifty dollars more I can lift or lower the ball without climbing in and out of the bed, win! 417079

- C630-652

Review from a similar Curt Quick Goose 2 in Gooseneck

Great product and easy to install. Arrived quickly with great customer service 664786

- C630-652

Review from a similar Curt Quick Goose 2 in Gooseneck

ordered this hitch w/ installation kit, at 7:00 pm and it was shipped within 10 hours, and was delivered on the day as promised...i received emails letting me know that it had shipped and then a flollow up email letting me know of my tracking number...very efficient company would definetely order from them again 33685


Ask the Experts about this Curt Gooseneck

  • Cost Effective Gooseneck Trailer Hitch for a 2008 Ford F-250
    I do have a gooseneck hitch that will fit your 2008 Ford F-250 but the Curt Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit part # C630-644 will not work for you as this hitch is designed to fit an F-250 from 2011-2016. For a similar gooseneck hitch that is designed for a 2008 Ford F-250, I recommend taking a looking at the CURT Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit part # C640-644. The Quick Goose gets its name from the pull lever in the fender well which allows you...
    view full answer...
  • Which Curt Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch Fits 2014 Ford F-350
    For your 2014 Ford F-350 the Curt Quick Goose 2 Gooseneck Hitch with Installation Kit # C630-644 that you referenced is the correct fit and would be all that you'd need to install in your truck. I attached an install video for this kit for you to check out as well.
    view full answer...
  • Covers For the OEM Puck System Gooseneck Holes For A 2014 Ford F450
    The CURT Rubber Ball Hole Cover # C66145 is made to cover holes in the truck bed made from the Quick Goose 2 # C630-644. The measurements are outer diameter: 3-1/4" and inner diameter: 2-1/4". Since you have the OEM 5th wheel prep package in your 2014 Ford F-450., the puck covers or plugs will have to be obtained from a dealer. The aftermarket version of the underbed system is a little different than the factory one and they do not make those round covers available. The round cover...
    view full answer...

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Info for this part was:

Written by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Dustin K
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Isabelle B
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
David F

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