Gen-Y Gooseneck Coupler w/ Shock Absorption - Square - 5-1/2" Offset - 2-5/16" Ball - 16K

Gen-Y Gooseneck Coupler w/ Shock Absorption - Square - 5-1/2" Offset - 2-5/16" Ball - 16K

Item # 325-GH-7011

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Gooseneck Trailer Coupler

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Gen-Y Hitch Gooseneck Trailer Coupler - 325-GH-7011
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  • Coupler with Inner Tube Only
  • 16000 lbs GTW
  • Square Tube
  • Gen-Y Hitch
  • 2-5/16 Inch Gooseneck Ball
Get a smooth, safe ride with this shock-absorbing coupler. Offset design offers 5-1/2" of extra clearance between your cab and trailer. Cable latch makes it easy to disconnect from outside your bed. Fits standard 4" wide outer tube. Call 800-298-8924 to order Gen-Y Hitch gooseneck trailer coupler part number 325-GH-7011 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Gen-Y Hitch products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Gen-Y Gooseneck Coupler w/ Shock Absorption - Square - 5-1/2" Offset - 2-5/16" Ball - 16K. Gooseneck Trailer Coupler reviews from real customers.


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Gen-Y Hitch Gooseneck Trailer Coupler - 325-GH-7011

Get a smooth, safe ride with this shock-absorbing coupler. Offset design offers 5-1/2" of extra clearance between your cab and trailer. Cable latch makes it easy to disconnect from outside your bed. Fits standard 4" wide outer tube.


Features:

  • Sturdy inner tube pairs with existing outer tube to create a gooseneck coupler for hooking your trailer up to your truck
  • Shock-absorbing design ensures a smooth, steady ride
    • Technology functions like a torsion axle to limit transfer of road shock from truck to trailer and vice versa
    • No airbags to maintain and fewer moving parts to repair or replace than with other shock-absorbing solutions
  • Offset design offers extra clearance between truck cab and trailer
  • Self-latching lever automatically engages when hitch ball is in socket
  • Cable latch allows you to easily uncouple from outside of your truck bed
    • Included cable attaches to lever - just pull on it to disengage the latch
  • Tongue weight scale is built in to help you balance your trailer
    • Meter lets you know if your load needs to be adjusted before you tow
  • Heavy-duty steel construction
  • Powder coat finish resists wear and corrosion
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Ball size: 2-5/16"
  • Gross towing weight: 16,000 lbs
  • Vertical load limit (maximum tongue weight): 3,000 lbs
  • Range of vertical adjustment (when used with outer tube): 8"
  • Offset from center of ball hole to center of adjustment hole: 5-1/2"
  • Maximum travel at pivot points while under load: 2"
  • Tube outer width: 4"
  • 10-Year warranty


Built-In Shock Absorption for a Smooth Ride

If you're towing a packed horse trailer, the last thing you want is for the horses to be jostled around while you're on the road. And if you're hauling heavy-duty construction equipment, you definitely don't want to feel sharp, jolting movement every time your trailer hits a bump. Driving over bumps, potholes, and uneven terrain causes road shock. This can result in a rough, bumpy ride for you and your cargo. It can even potentially damage your trailer. This Gen-Y Hitch gooseneck coupler is designed to absorb road shock at the connection point to create a safe, smooth, and stable ride. This is thanks to the internal construction of the coupler, which is similar to that of a torsion axle.


gooseneck torsion

Pivot points are built into the Gen-Y gooseneck coupler. This allows for movement between the base of the coupler, which connects to the ball in your truck bed, and the top tube of the coupler, which connects to your trailer. When your vehicle hits a bump, the base of the coupler will move up or down accordingly.


torsion

Built into the Gen-Y coupler are tubes with inner bars that are surrounded by rubber cords. As the coupler's base rises or falls, these inner bars twist inside of the tubes, attempting to follow the base's motion. But the rubber cords prevent the bars from twisting too far. And as each bar turns, these cords compress to absorb the shock. This means that any shock experienced by your truck can be absorbed before it reaches your trailer, and the shock experienced by your trailer won't get transferred to your truck.


This type of shock-absorption system is easy to maintain. Just regularly apply grease to the built-in zerk to keep the components in working condition. No airbags to fill. No small parts to repair or replace. No hassle.


Offset Design Gives Extra Clearance When Towing

This Gen-Y gooseneck coupler has an offset design. The bottom of the coupler, where it attaches to the ball, is positioned 5-1/2" away from the coupler tube, which inserts into the outer tube on your trailer. This provides 5-1/2" of extra clearance, giving you more space between your truck cab and trailer when making tight turns.


Easy to Couple and Uncouple

The Gen-Y gooseneck coupler makes hooking up your gooseneck trailer easy thanks to its automatic latch. When your hitch ball moves into the coupler base, the latch instantly engages. No need to manually close the socket once the coupler is on the ball.


latch and cable

Disconnecting is fast and easy too. This normally requires you to crawl into your truck bed to access and release the latch. But the Gen-Y gooseneck coupler can be disconnected from outside of your truck bed. The included cable attaches to the latch on the coupler's base. Just run the cable up your trailer frame and secure it in a convenient place. When you're ready to disengage the coupler, simply pull the cable to release the ball from the socket. No need to climb into your truck bed.


Easily Check Your Vertical Load

The vertical load, or tongue weight, refers to the weight that a fully loaded trailer exerts downward on the hitch ball of the tow vehicle. Too little vertical load can cause trailer sway and too much can cause poor performance.


scale upright

This Gen-Y gooseneck coupler has a built-in mechanical scale so that you can check to see if your vertical load is too high or too low. The highest arrow on the scale indicates your maximum vertical load (3,000 lbs). The lowest arrow indicates no vertical load (0 lbs). A vertical load of at least 1,750 lbs is recommended for the built-in shock absorption to function effectively. This means that the scale's white indicator marker should be between the highest arrow and the middle arrow when you hook up your trailer to tow.



GH-7011-S GenY Hitch Spartan Square Adjustable Gooseneck Coupler with Torsion Suspension - 8" Range - 2-5/16" Ball - 16,000 lbs







Video of Gen-Y Gooseneck Coupler w/ Shock Absorption - Square - 5-1/2" Offset - 2-5/16" Ball - 16K


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Gen-Y Gooseneck Coupler Review

Speaker 1: Today we're going to be taking a look at the Gen Y line of gooseneck couplers with torsion suspension. Here you can see our torsion suspension in action. It does a great job of softening the ride between the truck and trailer, so we don't have all that felt force or that chucking motion that we're used to, typically hauling. It's also going to make it a lot easier ride for our cargo. This can be especially important when we're transporting horses or maybe a camper. But also can help us out with our equipment too.Here you can see a side by side with our original coupler.

You can see how much rougher it's riding on top of that ball versus the Gen Y style. Now since we are softening that connection point. It's going to give us a lot less force on our rear suspension. And it should save us some life on our trailer as well. Now keep in mind for the best performance out your Gen Y head, you will want to have proper tongue weight applied.Now our Gen Y hitches are designed to fit a wide variety of applications.

We've got the four inch round, which we've got installed here. It's going to look just like this and our four inch square. So we've got both styles there covered. They're also designed to work with different types of gooseneck balls. We've got the standard here which are going to be for a just a ball that would be sitting above level in the pickup truck bed.

And for the balls that site below the level of the bed, you're going to have the extended option here designed for those recessed balls. That's available with the four inch round or four inch square option.They're also going to be offered in two different weight capacities. We've got our 16,000 pound option with a 3,000 pound tongue weight rating. And our 25,000 pound option with a 5,500 pound tongue weight rating. Now both the four inch round and the four inch square coupler are going to give us five and a half inches of total adjustability.

These holes are set on inch and a quarter spacing. The four inch square tube offers three holes, those are spaced on two and 3/4 inch centers.That range of adjustability's going to allow us to get our gooseneck height to the appropriate range for our truck. We also have a fully adjustable tongue weight scale built right into the head of our gooseneck. It's going to come marked from the factory with our center points, and we just want to center our scale. To adjust it, we'll just loosen the Phillips screw. You'll set this center point to our mark and then tighten down your Phillips screw. Now once we have that secure, setting it with no weight on our pin at all, we're ready to load up our trailer.Now the largest pin up here on the top, that's going to be our max tongue weight. So we're going to be looking at 3,000 pounds on the 16,000 pound head and 5,500 on the 25,000 pound head. The center point there is going to be 1,500 pounds for your 16,000 pound head and 2,750 pounds. So that's going to allow us to get that 10-15% tongue weight that we're looking for that's the ideal pin weight to have when hauling trailers. Now I really like the idea of the built in tongue weight scale. I think it gives you the ability to measure how much tongue weight that you have. So you can get your trailer loaded safely. We don't want too much pin, we don't want to little pin weight. And this with the incremental gauge there is going to help us out a lot.Another nice feature is the auto latch coupler. This allows you an easier time connecting your trailer to your truck. You don't have to worry about climbing in the bed of your truck to get it secured properly. Now with the auto latch coupler, we found the easiest way to get it separated will be to use the jack on your trailer to lift slightly on the ball. Once you've achieved that slight bit of lift, you'll just pull that cord and we'll see the tongue of that trailer pop up.Now we're trying to get a little bit of insight into this style of coupler and see you know why it cam about. What are the benefits of it We've got Carl owner of Gen Y industries, inventor of the torsion flex coupler. Not a better guy to talk to about that. Carl we understand that you wanted to create kind of separation between the truck and the trailer. Seems like a really nice setup driving it today. It really does smooth things out quite a bit. So, what was your thought behind it and how'd you come up with this idea Carl: I guess the idea came from basically with hauling more, in that we're more in the heavy duty market. So heavier loads with a pickup, you tend to feel a lot of jolts and bumps and all that. Speaker 1: Right. Carl: And so basically, what this does it separates the truck from the trailer. So, you're independent now on both sides. Speaker 1: Okay so it's going to give us separation between the truck, saving a lot of the wear and tear on the trucks components and then same on the trailer side. Carl: Yes. Speaker 1: We kind of get that balance act. So why did you decide torsion flex style I mean it's tried and true, torsion axles have been around forever. Carl: Right, right. Speaker 1: We see them on a lot of horse trailers that use those instead of a spring suspension for a softer ride. Carl: Right. Speaker 1: Why not an airbag or some kind of hydraulic thing Carl: Here with our system, it's completely maintenance free. There is no moving joints, moving parts. It's all on rubber. Speaker 1: I guess that brings up another question. With rubber components, we tend to think those are going to wear over time and stuff like that. So what kind of life expectancy is it that you expect to get out of a head like this Carl: We had one on the road at roughly 300,000 towing miles on it. Speaker 1: Okay. Carl: We took it back from the customer and obviously exchanged it with a new one. Speaker 1: Sure, yeah. Carl: Just to get it back and we cut it open. There was no sign of any wear on the rubber just yet. We can actually pop these bolts out and we can actually insert brand new rubber cords. Speaker 1: Okay. Carl: So basically, the main hitch body, we have a lifetime warranty on all of our products. Speaker 1: Okay. That's good. Carl: They're built to last. I mean that's how we build them. And so obviously with rubber that will have to be replaced. We got a 10 year warranty on the rubber. Speaker 1: Okay. Carl: And it can be rebuilt in a matter of minutes. We can do it at our shop. Speaker 1: So essentially you could buy this gooseneck coupler, put it on this trailer once you've worn the wheel off of this. Put it on a new trailer and just rebuild maybe 15 years down the line or something. Carl: Yeah you could do that. Speaker 1: We've got a good understanding of how this system's going to work. What are any tips you might have for maybe initial use or overall use of it to get the maximum performance out of it Carl: Well what one thing we have added on this, is a mechanical tongue weight scale. So it's within a couple hundred pounds. Speaker 1: Okay. Carl: Basically initially when you hook on, you put a load on your trailer. You want to ride it around for let's say 50 miles. You get it back to the shop, unhook the trailer. Basically what you want to do is relocate this weight scale here to center point. Speaker 1: Okay. Carl: And from that point forward it is pretty accurate within a couple hundred pounds. Speaker 1: Acts as a good guide Carl: Yeah. Speaker 1: Not necessarily a rule but a good guide. Carl: Yeah, it's not. And the optimal ride is, say for the 3,000 pound is from 2,100 to 3,000 pounds. In there is optimal ride. Speaker 1: Okay, so if you've got 1,000 pounds of pin weight, you're not getting a lot of movement or a lot of help Carl: Yeah, it's like a solid connection because we kind of class them in different classes. Speaker 1: Okay real nice. Well thanks a lot for stopping by. It's a lot of good information for our customers. Carl: Thank you. Speaker 1: We appreciate it. Carl: Glad to be here. Speaker 1: Now as we said, the installation process is extremely straight forward. It's going to install like any typical gooseneck when it slides up inside. This is the four inch round, that we're going to be replacing here. But remember we do have the four inch square as well. Now your gooseneck is going to have some form of release mechanism to release the lever here and allow your ball to come off.You want to be sure you separate that from the trailer before we start removing the gooseneck, so we don't pull any fasteners or anything like that. Once our cables clear, we'll check and make sure that we don't have anything else connected to the removable portion there. And then in most situations, you're going to have a set bolt. Just a bolt that goes in and kind of helps keeps this from rotating at all.In our case, it's going to be right up here inside of the tongue. Yours maybe exposed on the outside. So just loosen that up, whatever situation you've got. At that point, your gooseneck should be loose slightly. Now we'll want to pull our clip and our pin while supporting it and get that removed.Now the gooseneck itself is designed to work with this straight pass through style pin and the offset style pin. For our two holes here and here, this is going to be for your straight style. That'll have your gooseneck sitting straight in line. For the offset, we'll have the option to one of these three holes to use. Now on our old gooseneck, we want to measure the mark that was created from the outer two sliding down over it. Usually pretty visible, measure down to the bottom of the coupler and we've got about 11 and a half inches there.Now the head of the gooseneck does have flew in it. It's going to move up and down. So as we pin our gooseneck in position on trailer, we want to get our measurement from the bottom of coupler to the top, as close as possible plus two inches. So we had 11 and a half, we'll go to 13 and a half for greater to have the appropriate distance.Now it's just a matter of taking the new inner tube and sliding it into the outer tube of our trailer, matching up our pin holes and getting it pinned. And once you've got your pin all the way through, you want to slide in your clip on the other side. Now as you slide your clip in, you want this U to be upward. Once it's on, you rotate it around, that's going to lock it, keep it from coming out. And if equipped, you're also going to torque back down your set bolt.Now we're ready to get the cable installed. You want to take the end that has the pre-installed bolt with the flat washers and lock nut on it. It's going to go right in the end of our lever. With that in our lever, we'll then want to add on the provided lock nut. I want to tighten that down, but we don't want to overtighten it. You just want to pull on the cable and make sure it's got a good full cycle of motion there.Now if your trailer did not come with the keepers to run your release cable through. They have provided a clamp for you with an islet to help support that cable. Your set screws just going to come down and clamp around piece of steel on your trailer. We'll just run that set screw down, so it makes contact with the frame. And then with a 5/16 inch wrench, you can tighten that down. Now once that's secured down, you can see that's going to keep our cable up to where we can easily get to it.Now for trailers with keepers, we'll need to remove the cable clamp on the loop end. We'll do that with a 7/16 inch wrench. The keeper that came with it will slide off, we want that hanging. Then we'll just guide our cable through the trailer's keepers. Then we can add our cable clamp back on. Just tighten the nuts back down. All right, there we go.Now located right down on the bottom of the head itself, we're going to have a grease zerk. This grease zerk's going to allow us to lubricate the pin to make sure the release lever operates smoothly for years to come. Now we can hook up our trailer. Then we'll bring our equipment up until we have the appropriate pin weight, strap it down, and get ready to go. And that'll do it for our look at the Gen Y line of gooseneck couplers with torsion suspension.

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Info for this part was:

Edited by:
Lindsey S
Installed by:
Randy B
Written by:
Alexander C
Video Edited:
Zach D

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