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Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit - Carbide Finish

Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit - Carbide Finish

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Fifth Wheel Installation Kit

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Install your fifth-wheel trailer hitch in half the time with this custom bracket kit. Requires less drilling than universal kits and provides a custom fit for your vehicle. Includes everything you need for installation. 1-800-940-8924 to order CURT fifth wheel installation kit part number C16444-204 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all CURT products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit - Carbide Finish. Fifth Wheel Installation Kit reviews from real customers.
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  • Reviews (11)
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  • Videos (2)
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  • Why etrailer?

CURT Fifth Wheel Installation Kit

  • Above the Bed
  • Custom
  • CURT

Install your fifth-wheel trailer hitch in half the time with this custom bracket kit. Requires less drilling than universal kits and provides a custom fit for your vehicle. Includes everything you need for installation.


Features:

  • Custom brackets mount beneath your truck bed to provide attachment points for 5th-wheel base rails
  • Base rails sit in truck bed and allow installation of 5th-wheel trailer hitch
  • Custom fit - brackets mount to existing holes in your vehicle's frame
    • Minimizes drilling
    • Installation time is cut in half, compared with universal bracket systems
  • Complete kit includes brackets, rails and hardware
  • Visible rails have carbide finish to match your hitch
  • Compatible with B&W, Curt, Demco, Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch, Husky, Reese, and Valley 5th-wheel hitches
  • Assembled in the USA
  • 1-Year limited warranty


16444 Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Bracket Kit

16204 Curt Universal, Carbide Fifth Wheel Base Rails

Item # C16444-204

Installation Details C16444-204 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles




Video of Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit - Carbide Finish

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Curt Fifth Wheel Kit Installation - 2016 Ram 1500

Today on this 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab, we're going to review and install the Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit; part number C16444-204. This is what the rails look like when they're installed in the bed of your Dodge pickup. In this case we installed this in a short bed pickup. With no hitch in there you still have full access to your bed and these bed rails are going to be great for when the time comes to pull your fifth wheel trailer. It does work with a wide variety of fifth wheel hitches that are out there as well as gooseneck adapters. This is a classic five bolt design and you get the five bolts that hold that cross-rail into place. On these rails, they're active weight capacity is actually limited by what your truck can actually pull. The kit does come with the rails you see on top of the truck as well as the brackets that go below the truck as well.

This also saves installation time because you don't have to guess where to put the brackets. The brackets will only fit in one place, so you know where they're going on the right place the first time. Next we'll go ahead and show you how we installed everything on our Ram pickup. First part of our install, is actually get the truck ready. To do that we actually want to lift the frame of the truck up enough where the tire is loose and that allows the suspension to hang down, so you have easy access to your frame right here. Yes I have it on a lift, but you can easily do this with some jack stands underneath the frame at the bottom of the truck. Next we have to remove the fender liner right here because we have to have access in this area. We'll go ahead all of the fasteners for the fender liner.

To remove our fasteners, we'll all going to use an eight millimeter socket. We'll go ahead and work it loose and go ahead and pull it out. inaudible 00:01:36 tire has to be removed for a little while as well. Next we need to get into the bed of the truck and we'll go ahead and make some marks for our cross-rail that goes in the bed. Going by the measurements and instructions, we'll go ahead and measure out from the edge of the bed, not tailgate, all the way back as described in the instructions. Got one side done, let's go over to the other side of the truck; repeat the same process.

Once we have our rail in place, we'll careful mark it and drill out our holes here. We need to go one-two-three in, we'll find the center, mark it. In the center we'll do the one for the inside here and on the driver's side here, one-two-three in. Using a very small pilot hole, about 1/8th of an inch, we'll go ahead and drill out our pilots. With the pilot holes drilled out, we'll go ahead and move the rail out of the way and continue on underneath the truck. Next up, just the driver's side of the exhaust needs to be temporarily removed.

This is only for vehicles that have duel exhaust. Using 15 millimeter socket on this clamp right here, we'll get it nice and loose. To make things a little easier to remove, I sprayed some penetrant on it to help move it back a little bit, and I actually just use a plastic mallet and I just tapped it back loose. Now, I'm using a special hanger tool to remove this, but you can probably do it by hand if you have it lubricated enough or you can also use a pry bar and push it out with that too. Once you have it loose enough, it's pretty light to remove. Next up, we have to go ahead and loosen up this wire harness that goes on top of a frame well right here. Eventually there will be a bracket that will sit right on top this. I'm just using a trim panel tool, there's one right back here too. You can do this with a screwdriver too. Next up, the breather line for the rear axle, we need to unclip that. The clips are aligned, you can get access from the bottom right here. I'm just using a small screwdriver to pop them out from the bottom. Just get that out of the way for now. We do have to disconnect this electrical connector here and there's an identical one on the passenger side. It's behind the heat shield for a spare tire. There's a little plastic lock, I'm just going to push with a screwdriver. It's red in color. Pop it loose, press down right here, and you can go ahead and pull it apart. It will be kind of tough to pull apart. That's just got some dust around it. We'll go repeat this same process on the one that's on the other side that's hidden behind the heat shield. If we follow the wire harness down behind the heat shield right here, look up from the bottom, we can find the connection point. A couple more details about the bar harness, is that you want to take this little clip off, peal at this little edge right here and it comes apart like that. Then you can take the whole assembly and push it up and over the rail. Let's go back to our driver's side, that inaudible 00:04:44 we pulled off right here for the exhaust. This rod needs to be taken off as well for now, and the fasteners on top here. You can use a 13 millimeter socket or a 13 millimeter ratchet wrench like I'm using. There's a little tab you have to work loose too. This cross number right here, this faces toward the back of the truck. We'll take this end, push it over the exhaust and the other end is going to go up over the brakes a little bit and then I'll raise the passenger side one more time, and then bring it towards the back of the truck. We'll get it close right here, make sure none of our wires or lines are getting pinched, so it's good to tuck the driver's side in first. Once we got the driver's side in there, make sure your wires are free, and then undo the passenger's side. We'll take our wire harness that was in here, and then just push it through this large hole. Now, it's good just to route it over center beam right here. Then we'll take our cross bar and put it into place. We have some free play in here and we know we have it in the right spot. Now will be a good time to take a look to make sure that the bracket that we put up in here, lines up with the two holes that drilled through the bed earlier. At this point we can go ahead and install some hardware. We'll use a 5/8ths bolts, flat washer, and a lock nut. It's going to go through this hole here and through our bracket, and we'll loosely install it. We have this installed, we'll do the same thing over on the passenger side. This will be the location for the passenger side bolt. We can go ahead and drill out our holes, we'll go up to a 17/32nd hole size. After we have our holes drilled out, it's a good idea to spray some paint; help protect the edges. Let's go ahead and put this spacer block right here and put our rail back into place. We want that block there so we have constant metal to metal contact. We'll drop in our hardware on the sides first. Let's take our hex-head bolts and run them through. Let's go ahead and install our hardware on the bottom here. We'll looking at the bolt here that's closest to the tailgate on the rail. This one is going to be about the easiest one for you to see. We'll take this spacer block, because it has to go in the gap to keep that metal to metal contact. It's not going to be a perfect fit, but we'll get it in there as straight as possible. It may also help to pry it down a little bit, the sheet metal, to help get it installed as well. That's all going to be the spacer, and then we'll have this block go on the bottom of that and then our handle nut. Then you definitely want an extra set of hands up on top to go ahead and spend the bolt to tighten it up. We're just going to snug our bolts down, just enough to take up the gap and that's it. We'll go ahead and continue the same process on the remaining five bolts going though the bed. We've got all metal to metal contact right here, so we won't need that extra spacer block. We'll just put on our long block and our handle nut, and then we can go ahead and tighten it down. Once we got all of our hardware loosely installed still, we'll go ahead and reconnect our electrical connections. Push them together and make sure the lock goes in and make sure we have plenty of free play. Since it is somewhat close to the exhaust, it's a good idea to double check to make sure it's far away as possible. For this connection on the driver's side, I actually ran it behind this hatch handle right here and over the frame, and I ran this cable up and I'll plug in this way. Now would be a good time to go ahead and get the fifth wheel hitch you'll be using with your truck, because we'll use that to place our front rail. Let's go ahead and lift it up and put our rail into place. There will still be a little bit of play in it, so it's a good idea to check for square. I'm using this corner here and going to the opposite on the other rail. We'll do it on both sides, and just like before we'll go ahead and mark and drill our holes. We're going to go one-two-three, find our center, one-two-three, find our center. We'll do this center one right here and these two. Got them marked, now we can go ahead and drill our small pilot holes. These holes here are really close to some components underneath the bed of the truck, so we'll be careful when we drill through these guys. Now the pilot holes are drilled, we'll go ahead and remove our rail and we'll go ahead and drill out through our final hole size. Once again, we'll go ahead and cover up some our bare metal with some paint. Now I can go ahead and install some hardware and brackets for the front rail. We're looking at the passenger side here. We're about to install a carriage bolt and a short block with the square hole that fits into. We're going to install one here and here. We're going to use the provided bolt leader. I'm going to run it down through the frame and then out this other hole here. I'm going to take my block and I'm going to run it through the bolt leader and inside the frame. I'm going to take my bolt leader nuts and thread it into place, push the bolt inside and pull it through just like that. This one we do a little bit different. We'll go ahead an put everything together on the outside here, thread it all together, push into the frame, pull it back through. Next we're going to go ahead and lift up this support rod right here. Just a ten millimeter socket on this bolt to remove it and we'll just push this out of our way. Now, we'll install our bracket for the passenger side. They are two different shapes, so we'll go ahead and run it this edge over the top of the shock, move that rod out of the way. Once we got it in there, we'll go ahead and take our pull wires, our bolt leaders, and run them through the holes in the bracket. It doesn't matter if they fall in because we can pull them back through with the bolt leaders. I'm going to put my bracket up into place, we'll add this rectangle with the square hole, spacer block, we'll slide that on to this bolt right here. The bolt that's lower, gets a smaller rectangle with a round hole. We'll thread that through and there we go just like that. We'll thread our wires through the bracket and put our bracket into place. With the right tension and everything down, we'll go ahead and be careful and remove our wire pulls because we have to use them on the other side. Then we'll install the flange nut; it will be a half inch flange nut. Same thing on this bolt here. Just enough to snug it up and we can still move it. This is our bracket for the driver's side. It has this piece right here that will snap on to the bracket on the thick part here. This will help protect the lines that are right next to it from rubbing on the raw metal. There's a little wire harness right here, I want to pop it up and out of the way; just give us some slack here. I'm just going to tuck that away for now. We can always zip tie it later. Just like on the passenger's side, I got this bracket and just moved it out of the way. Same combination as before; take my bolt leader, run it down and we'll install our hardware. Before you put your bracket in place, sometimes we have to remove this one as well, and our bracket will sit over a ground stud right here. There's a hole in the bracket built for that. It does take some patience to run that bracket up in there, make sure it's sitting flat. Those spacers give us plenty of room for our ground wires, so we won't have to worry about that. Let's make sure everything else is sitting the way we want it and it's not getting pinched. This is all loosely installed for now. Let's go ahead and put our rail back into place and we'll install our hardware. The center bolt will get the u-shaped spacer. We'll have to maneuver the bracket on the bottom here to make sure this one goes all the way through. We'll go ahead and connect our hardware from our rail to our brackets. Once again the u-shaped spacer will go between the frame bracket and the bed, then a square block, and then our handle nut. You will definitely want an extra set of hands up on top to help spin the bolt and get it started. One little trick we did here is that the bolts that goes through the hat channel is really hard to get to, so you still need a spacer here too. We just taped everything together, our u-shaped spacer, our regular flat spacer with a square hole, and then our handle nut. It's just going to be really just out of reach for your fingers, so to help reach it in, just use some vice grips or needle nose to get that extra little bit in there. Now our hardware is just snug down, but not tightened up. We'll go ahead and put our hitch back into place. We'll also install the pins too. Now we'll go ahead and tighten down the bolts. We'll go ahead and torque down the bolts specified in the instructions. Next we'll go ahead and move onto the brackets. We'll tighten and torque these bolts down as well. We'll go ahead and tighten down our hardware going from this cross number here up to that C-channel we installed earlier. Torque these bolts down as well. At this point, all our hardware is fully installed. We can go ahead and reinstall the components we had to take off to make room for it. This breather tube right here, I actually just took these clips right here that are on it, just scooted them down just a little bit, and actually clip them onto this component right here. Just push them on, that will hold it just fine. Next you want to double check to make sure all your wires are still safe and not smashed up or anything like that, zip tie them as needed. Let's go ahead and put our hanger bracket back up for our exhaust. There is a cutout in the hardware here, so we just go ahead and put this end back into it's hook and then we can bolt it back into place. Go ahead and put our exhaust back up into place. Now our fender wells can go back into place. Don't forget to put your little support arm back into place. That will finish it for the Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit; part number C16444-204 on this 2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab.


Customer Reviews

Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit - Carbide Finish - C16444-204

Average Customer Rating:  4.4 out of 5 stars   (11 Customer Reviews)

Install your fifth-wheel trailer hitch in half the time with this custom bracket kit. Requires less drilling than universal kits and provides a custom fit for your vehicle. Includes everything you need for installation.

by:
2014 Ram 1500

I followed the install video, but did not try to remove dual exhaust. Remove rear tires, wiggle cross brace in to place from right side of truck. Was worried, mounted close to the front of bed. But really happy, kit was great. Took 6 hours to install, with help from the wife. When hooked up, lots of room to turn. Very happy, thank you



by:
2016 Dodge Ram Pickup

Nice kit use on my 2016 ram 1500 2 guys a case of beer and five hours got it done .



by:

In this case... You get what you pay for! This was a high quality product that was specific for my 2017 Ram 1500 6 1/2' bed. This was the only kit I found specific for short(er) bed RAM Trucks. Following the paper instructions along with the video provided by etrailer.com made this install downright easy.

DIY'ers - Remove the spare tire first! I reversed my truck onto Rhino Ramps and had plenty of room to do this job with typical tools and the help of a ratcheting 1/2 inch wrench. Use a punch / drill a pilot hole for your larger bit. Don't worry about the 17/32 drill bit.. a 1/2" bit worked just fine. This will not be a quick job, like the one shown on the video. Allow yourself time to take 4 hours to complete the job. You will have a crap ton of spacers left over.

67" Beds - Follow the video to the T.. The truck in the video is obviously a 67" Bed.

76" Beds - You'll notice when it's time to add the frame brackets that the video has a frame beam but up against the bracket that goes on the frame.. Yours will be further back.. You'll also notice the frame doesn't match.. Don't worry, use the same hole location as instructed on the video. You only have to remove the frame stabilizer on the drivers side..



by:

The Curt Custom 5th Wheel kit specifically for our 2016 RAM 1500 Crew Cab, 5’ 7” bed, was perfect. Professional installation cost $400+. CombinEd with the Reese sidewinder we installed ourselves, we can almost make a 90 degree turn if ever needed. Thanks, JW, Long Island, NY.



by:

Great product, very easy to install, only thing that could've been better would be two longer handles on the nuts installed inside the bed sill.



by:
2015 Ram 1500

Etrailer is the best. Rails and kit arrived quick and in good shape. I have put 2 on Ford's and we're a lot easier because of room to work, Rams are pretty tight. Rails and kit are great quality and cheaper than Reese kits. A lift would have made it easier but not necessarily.



by:

Customer and product support is better than great as well as prices, service and available selection. Being new to 5th wheel hitch requirements I was able to get all the info needed on type and additional parts required. Received everything on a timely basis, had it installed locally without any problems what-so-ever. This is a great company by any standard and sure to be the next retailer success. They have covered all the basis in what it takes to be not just a good retailer but truly a great retailer.



by:

Very hard to install and instructions were terrible!



by:
Dodge Ram Pickup

Perfect fitment. Quality parts and hardware.
Beef
that ram up



by:

Great product and easy to install



by:


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Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
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Employee Mike L
Expert Research:
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Employee Michael H
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Employee Lindsey S
Edited by:
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