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Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit for Chevy/GMC - Carbide Finish

Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit for Chevy/GMC - Carbide Finish

Item # C16411-204
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Our Price: $226.14
Fifth Wheel Installation Kit

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Install your fifth wheel trailer hitch in half the time with this custom bracket kit. Requires less drilling than universal kits and provides a custom fit for your . Includes everything you need for installation. Call 800-298-1624 to order CURT fifth wheel installation kit part number C16411-204 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all CURT products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit for Chevy/GMC - Carbide Finish. Fifth Wheel Installation Kit reviews from real customers.
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2019 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 - Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit for Chevy/GMC - Carbide Finish

  • Above the Bed
  • Custom
  • CURT

Install your fifth wheel trailer hitch in half the time with this custom bracket kit. Requires less drilling than universal kits and provides a custom fit for your . Includes everything you need for installation.


Features:

  • Custom brackets mount beneath your truck bed to provide attachment points for 5th wheel rails
  • Base rails sit in truck bed and allow installation of 5th wheel trailer hitch
  • Custom fit - brackets mount to existing holes in your vehicle's frame
    • Minimizes drilling
    • Installation time is cut in half, compared with universal bracket systems
  • Complete kit includes brackets, rails and hardware
  • Visible rails have carbide finish to match your Curt Q5 fifth wheel hitch
  • Compatible with B&W, Curt, Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch, Husky, Reese, and Valley above-bed 5th-wheel trailer hitches


16411 Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Bracket Kit

16204 Curt Universal, Carbide Fifth Wheel Base Rails

Replaces 16413-204

Installation Details C16411-204 Installation instructions

Video of Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit for Chevy/GMC - Carbide Finish

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Curt Fifth Wheel Kit Installation - 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

Speaker 1: Today on our 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt custom fifth wheel installation kit in carbide finish part number C16411-204. Now it is also available in a gloss finish using part number C16411-104.Now the whole point of our base rails is so that we can mount a fifth whee hitch in our truck and safely tow either a fifth wheel or a gooseneck down the road. The rails are going to have several different mounting locations in there and they're going to accept industry standard fifth wheel hitches or gooseneck adapters. And the nice thing about our rails is when we're not towing, we can pull our fifth wheel out and our rails are only going to stick up from our bed about an inch and a half.Now our rails do come with a custom installation kit, which is going to cut down on the installation time making it a little bit easier and also reduce the amount of drilling that we're going to have to do. We are going to have to drill five holes per rail in order to get them installed. Those rails in the bed are going to attach to our frame brackets here.

And we're going to have two existing holes in our frame that are going to line up with the bracket, making it that much easier to get installed.As I mentioned before, our rails are going to accept all industry standard fifth wheel hitches like we have here our Curt Q20. It's going to match that carbide finish nicely. Now that we've seen what our rails look like and seen what they can do, gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get them installed.In our installation, you're going to want to move your fifth wheel and head either out of the way so we have enough room to work, or you're going to want to pull it out of the bed. But we are going to need it finish up the installation, that's why we just moved ours back. Now you're going to want to grab one of the rails and you're going to put it in the bed and you're going to find a few measurements in your instructions that we're going to have to measure from the edge of our tailgate to find out where that edge of the rails going to be.In our application, our truck did have a gooseneck prior to this.

So then if you're wondering, that's why we have this large hole in the bed, but we already checked and it's not going to affect anything with our rail or any of our installation. Now when you begin your measurements, you want to make sure you hook your tape measure right on the edge of the bed. You don't want to touch the tailgate or go any farther than that. You want to make sure it's nice and firm against the edge of the bed here.Now depending on if you have a short bed or long bed truck, we're going to have a couple different measurements because each one's going to be slightly different. So we're going to measure on our rail and we're going to go in a few different spots going across, so we can make sure it's nice and square.

And once we have the measurement made, we're going to take a marker or something so we can see where that spot is. First we'll make a nice little mark so we know that the edge of our rail is right there. And we'll do that going across the entire rail.Now once you have the rail positioned away from the tailgate in the correct spot, then we're going to need to make sure it's centered. The easiest way to do that is going to be find a spot that you can mark or hook your tape measure on the side. And we're going to want both sides to have the same measurement measuring in the same spot.

Then once you do, you know it's going to be nice and square. With the rail in the correct position, we're going to need to mark our mounting locations.Now we're going to be using the outermost holes on each side. We're going to be using the back and the front hole. So I'm going to take a paint marker and I'm just going to color in the center of that hole. We'll do that for both sides for the front and back. Now we're also going to be using the center hole and it's going to be the one closest to the tailgate. So we'll go ahead and mark that one out as well. And once you have all your holes marked, the four on the sides and the one in the center, we're going to go ahead and move our rail out of the way and we're going to need to drill those out.Now you're going to want to grab somewhat of a small drill bit and you're going to drill right in the center of where you marked. I do want to mention, you always want to double check what's underneath to make sure you're not going to drill through any wires or any lines or cause any damage to anything. Now we'll repeat that for all of the remaining holes we marked.With all those holes drilled, we're going to come back with a step drill bit and we're going to enlarge all of them to a 9/16. Now it's not required, but I'm going to come back with a little bit of spray and paint and I'm going to spray all the holes that I just drilled, which hopefully will keep rust from building up.We're going to get ready to put our frame brackets in place. Now over here on the passenger side, the way you're going to know you have the right bracket or the right side is you want to make sure those tabs are facing towards the center of the truck. And on the passenger side, if we look there's going to be a smaller section and a larger section. We want that smaller section going towards the front of the cab. And again, with those tabs facing towards the center of the truck.So we're going to know this is going to be the passenger side. So give you an idea of where this is going to go, we're going to take those tabs and you're going to go over top of the frame. It's going to line up these two oblong holes with the two round holes in our frame here. So before we put this in place, we are going to have to get our hardware in. So we're going to move underneath to the inside of the frame and I'll show you how we're going to get our hardware in place.To start out, we're going to take our pull wire they provide in our kit and we're going to put it into one of the mounting holes into the frame and then we can move to the other side of our frame. Now right above the jounce stop on the inside of our frame here, we're going to have a large access hole. Now you may need to reach in, kind of turn that pull wire around just so you can get ahold of it. We're going to want the coiled end to come out on the inside of our frame here.Then we're going to grab one of our large 5/8 spacer blocks. We're going to slide it over the end of our pull wire. We're going to slide it into the frame. Then we can take our large 5/8 carriage bolts. It's going to be the brown head with the small square underneath. We're going to thread it on to the end of the coiled wire. Then we're going to push that into the frame and we're going to pull that wire on the other side. It may take a little bit of patience, a little bit of time. I will say you don't want to do too much pulling if it's not coming because we are going to have to use these pull wires for the other side. Might have to rotate it a little bit, but our main goal is to get that bolt to come out through the spacer block and out the frame.Now once we have this one pulled through, we're going to leave the pull wire attached and we're going to repeat that for the other mounting hole. Now this forward mounting hole, if you're having a little bit of trouble getting that bolt to go through the block. What you can do is, you can actually reach through this oblong hole right here and help guide it through by pushing on it. Again we're going to leave these pull wires attached until we get our bracket in place.So we're going to take our pull wires and coming from the inside going towards the outside. I'm going to go through the oval holes in the bracket on the back and the front. Then we take our bracket loosely get into position. You're going to want to pull the excess wire out, so that the bolt comes through. We can go ahead and remove the pull wires off the bolts. And we're going to take a 5/8 flange nut and we're going to secure it to that carriage bolt. We're just going to leave these hand tight for now. Then repeat the same process on the other side. We're going to have that same access hole just on the drivers side of our truck.Now the driver's side is going to be a little bit more difficult to get everything into place because we are going to have a few lines as well as some electrical components. But we can still gain access to that access hole in the frame here just right above the jounce stop. You're just going to want most likely go over the line and come in or go below the lines over the electrical. Whichever is easier, you're just going to use that same process of fish wiring everything in.We're going to position the rail back over the holes we drilled earlier. We're going to take our half inch carriage bolts. We're going to drop them down through the mounting holes. And like on the edge here, you can see there's a slight gap because of the corrugation in our bed. Anywhere that you have a low spot where the rail is not touching the bed, we're going to take one of these spacers, it's going to be like a U shape. We're going to slide that underneath the rail so it's nice and tight up against the bed and the rail itself. That way it won't crush the bed or the ribs. Now we're going to repeat that for all the remaining holes and again anywhere we have a low spot, we're going to put that U shaped spacer in.Now underneath our bed where our bolts came through, since this middle bolt was in a high spot. The bottom side is going to be in a low spot. So we're going to take another one of those spacers and we're going to go around the bolt just like we did on top with this side on the other side. And then we're going to follow that up with a square spacer block. Then finally we're going to secure it with a half inch flange nut. That's going to be the same process for all of our bolts coming down through our bed, but if you're in a spot like we used those spacers up top on the edge, we're not going to be using them on the bottom. We just want to make it so it's nice and even. And as you can see that spacer's going to be pretty even with the low spot in the corrugation.So if you have any spots that are like that, you're going to want to make sure that you use that spacer block so they can even up and it's going to be nice and tight. And we'll repeat that using the square spacer and the flange nut on the remaining four bolts on the outside.Now we're going to come back with a 3/4 inch ratcheting wrench and we're going to snug up the hardware. Now we don't need to tighten all the way. We just want to make sure that it's nice and snug, so that rail's not going to move around inside the bed. And we'll repeat that for any remaining hardware.Now you're going to want to set your fifth wheel in the forward rail. And the way we're going to find a position for our rear rail is we're actually going to put it in place. So with an extra set of hands, we're going to lift up on our fifth wheel and we're going to slide the rail back til it's pretty close to where it's going to go into position. Then once we have it in place, we're going to make sure that it's nice and snug going towards the forward rail towards the front of our cab.With our fifth wheel still attached, we're going to go ahead and measure and make sure that we get the same measurement from the edge right here to the edge of our rail on both sides. That way we know it's going to be nice and square. Now we're going to do the same thing in marking the holes just like we did for our forward rail. Except this one, we're going to be using the second hole from the edge. We're going to do that for the front and back as well. Now the center hole we're still going to go towards the tailgate and use that center hole.With all of our holes marked, we're going to go ahead and move our fifth wheel and the rail out of the way and we're going to drill out those marks that we made, just like we did with the forward rail. Now we're going to take our half inch carriage bolts, just like before we're going to drop them down through the holes that we drilled. Now again you're going to want to pay attention to see where the rail is sitting on the corrugation of our bed. Fortunately, all of our bolts and mounting points are going to be on the high side, so we're not going to have to put any spacers on top, but underneath we will. Just like we did before on the forward rail, we're going to take one of our U shaped spacer blocks. That's going to take up that gap in between the bed corrugation. We're going to follow it up with a square hole spacer. And then finally we're going to secure everything with another one of those half inch flange nuts.Over here on the side of our frame rail, we're going to take our U shaped spacer blocks and we're actually going to in between the bed and the bracket and we're going to take up that gap, since there is that slight gap because of the corrugation in the bed. So you're going to want to slide it in and get it right up against that bolt. And it doesn't have to be facing any certain direction, you just want it in there so it's against the bolt and it's going to take up that gap. Now it may be necessary to kind of pry it down a little bit to get that spacer block in place. But you want it to go in between the bracket and the bed itself. We can grab that square spacer, slide it over the bolt. And again take another one of those half inch flange nuts and secure everything down.Now the heat shield is going to pose a slight problem getting access to the bolt over on the passenger side. So I'm going to take a 225 Torx bit and I'm going to remove the bolts that are holding it in place or at least most of them so I can swing it out of the way. Now there's going to be one bolt that we're not going to be able to get access to because it's going to be right above where our spare tire cable is. But we should be able to just loosen up those three and then swing that heat shield out of the way so we can gain access to those bolts.Now here on the passenger side, we're going to do the same thing with those U shaped spacer blocks. We're going to put them in between the bracket and the bed. And again, we might have to pry just a little bit to get them into position. If you do have to pry it, I just want to mention be careful. If you can use a screwdriver or something else rather than your fingers to push that spacer into position. Once you have the spacers in position, again we're going to take that square spacer block and secure everything down with that half inch flange nut.With all the hardware in position, we're going to come back with that same 3/4 inch ratcheting wrench and we're going to snug up all the hardware for the rear rail. Using a 15/16 socket, we're going to come back and snug up the 5/8 bolt in the side of our frame. We'll repeat that for the other side as well.I'm going to come back with that same 15/16 socket and I'm going to torque down all of my frame bolts to the specified amount in the instructions. You want to come back with a 3/4 inch socket for all my half inch hardware. I'm going to torque all of that down to the specified amount in the instructions. We're going to repeat that for all of our remaining hardware.With our hitch all torqued down, we can start putting back our heat shield that we took down earlier. And that'll finish up your look at the Curt custom fifth wheel installation kit, part number C16411-204 on our 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500.


Customer Reviews

Curt Custom Fifth Wheel Installation Kit for Chevy/GMC - Carbide Finish - C16411-204

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (258 Customer Reviews)

Install your fifth wheel trailer hitch in half the time with this custom bracket kit. Requires less drilling than universal kits and provides a custom fit for your vehicle. Includes everything you need for installation.

- C16411-204
by:

Excellent Product, amazing customer service. The fifth wheel hitch mounting kit has held up just as I would have expected. I will do business with Etrailer again anytime!


Comments
product has worked out great, I would recommend!
William - 04/20/2022


- C16411-204
by:

Very disappointed with the quality of parts I received from etrailer. I got parts for my 2015 GMC Sierra 2500 they look like they came out of the scratch and dent section. Like I understand that the item is heavy and it’s hard for it to stay prefect in shipping but for the amount paint missing and how beat up the parts are for [XXXX] dollars shocks me. I bought a new with wheel not a used one. This is a few photos of the many more I have hope this helps with your experience.



- C16411-204
by:

Very happy with the quality of the rails, the hitches fit as they should. The only reason I did not give a five star as the kit was missing a couple of the bolts needed for the install. I had to call the technical hot line and they did send the bolts to me free of charge. The technical assistance was very good as well. They answer the phone promptly and were very courteous and helpful.


Comments
Still performing excellent! Very happy with the rail system. I have had the hitch out several times and when I go to put it back all the rails are still aligned and the hitch slides back into its locating holes. A very good product for a very fair price.
Kevin - 05/13/2022


- C16411-204
by:

If you do this yourself, definitely remove the wheel well liners and remove 3 of the 4 bolts holding the heat shield with one loosened to move it out of the way. Top front four nuts are the hardest to get started from under the truck. Start to finish 3 hours. Saved myself $500 for install



- C16411-204
by:
2012 Chevrolet Silverado

I feel that the installation video simplifies the process to much. Attaching the frame plates with the bolt fish wire was more difficult than the video showed. I am to blame for the first bolt. We started on the left side and fished the back bolt first. I did not check to see if the wire would go through both plate and bolt once threaded onto the bolt. I just placed the plate on the wire and then threaded the bolt onto the wire and pulled or tried to pull it through the frame hole. The wire was "bunched" on part of the bolt and would not feed through the frame and the plate holes. I stretched the wire to the point I thought I was going to lose the bolt in the frame. We ended up getting the bolt back out and using the other fish wire to feed this bolt through. We made sure we could fit both the plate and bolt through together before fishing it through the frame. Once we did one the other three went a lot easier but we only had one fish wire to use. I had watched the installation video several times and played it while we were working. The video is good but it makes the process seem to easy. I would like to see the video have more details about this process and have 4 fish wire instead of 2 or tell people you may want to have two more on hand for piece of mind.


Comments
After a year and around 7,000 miles pulling our fifth wheel camper, I love the hitch. I have not had to use the sliding portion but glad we have it if we need it
Jeff L - 10/01/2018



- C16411-204
by:

Installed on a 2018 2500HD regular-cab, 8' bed, took about 3.5 hours. The video with the burgundy 2017 2500hd was relevant to my install. As noted in other reviews, the video is very helpful, and installation will not be as quick or straightforward as it appears. The kit does not come with instructions, but a digital copy can be found under More Product Information on the etrailer site. Paper would've been helpful, though! Some tips that weren't in the video or the .pdf instructions, but you might find helpful: -Remove the spare tire. This may already be obvious to some, but it wasn't to me. -After drilling the holes for the forward bed rail, use a heavy item such as a battery or cinder block on wood to hold the screws down when trying to thread the nuts on. As noted elsewhere, it's a reach to get to those bolts and I was only able to start the forwardmost nuts with pressure from my fingertips. A dab of axle grease will "stick" the spacers onto the frame plates, thus holding them while getting the nuts started. -As also noted elsewhere, the 3 rearmost 13mm/1/2" screws will need to be removed from the heat shield so it can be pivoted away from the passenger-side forward mounting bolts. Once the forward hitch rail is mounted, this gets a lot easier and is straightforward. Product loses the fifth star in my book due to lack of instructions, and even what I found digitally would have led to a couple mistakes on my end if etrailer hadn't made that video. Thank you etrailer for the pdf instructions and videos making this possible for me to do correctly. Yes, I would buy this product again.



- C16411-204
by:

Box was delivered with a little damage and the contents of the hardware bag was loose in the box. After going through the parts list and realizing I was missing 1 block, we contacted etrailer and they shipped the replacement part immediately, we got it within 3 or 4 days. Install was a breeze after watching the video and fishing the bolts and blocks in the frame. Only took a couple hours total.



- C16411-204
by:

It was as advertised. They have excellent installation videos as well. I recommend etrailer for their prices and customer service.



- C16411-204
by:

Last summer I made purchase of the A16 sliding 5th wheel hitch along with rails.the install took about six hours working by myself .following the enclosed instructions is important and saves time if you do it exactly as shown.I was very pleased with the delivery,it was prompt and no charge.that was great.the hitch is a slider which I think is important on a shortbed,could save damage to truck during maneuvers.my experience with etrailer has been really good and would recommend this company to anybody shopping for trailering equipment



- C16411-204
by:

Whew! Installing that Rail kit about kicked my butt! The reason why is all the trips I made from underneath the truck and back. The Rail kit is a very high Quality Product from Curt that fits perfectly in the bed of my truck. The hardware is also high quality. One downside is there isn't a lot of room to work as the gas tank on one side and the exhaust on the other side prevents easy access (gas tank in particular). It was very hard to get a wrench on the nuts unless you used a Gearwrench. After the install they are torqued to 110 ft-lb. The only way to do that was to put a 1 inch adapter on the torque wrench then put that in the open end of the gearwrench in the adapter. Then using a formula on line, convert that to what you have to ft-lb. Anyway It was worth it because I know I have a good product that will stand the test of time.



- C16411-204
by:

Great product.. better than my previous install on a 2006 Silverado w/separate brackets for each bolt for the Rails. This went in like a dream.. however, with that said... watching the video from etrailer on YT showing how to install this was extremely helpful... the "real life" install is no where near as easy as they show. The fuel tank and the bottom of the bed allow for about 5" of room to get you hand, arm and the bolts installed on the bottom of the bolts that come down from the rails. Very difficult. The passenger side also has the exhaust and a shield to contend with. Removal of the shield is a must, however the tight area between the frame rail and the underside of the bed... again, only allows for minimal accessability for the bolts. The only bolts that were able to be torqued were the bolts on the outside of the frame rails, otherwise all other bolts were only able to be torqued to grunt specs. Took about 3hrs, however it is way easier drilling only the 8 holes through the bed floor than into the frame... I would suggest re-tapping the threaded studs that are on the frame. I installed this on a 3 yrs old 2017, and I had a tap to do this. W/O the tap I think the bolts would not have gone in so easy AND they most likely would have been damaged from the rust and stuff laying in the holes.


Comments
Just a year now, and this hitch is still performing great. I really like the colored indicator in the front. I thought this would be a joke at first, but hey.. it really works. I find myself looking at the connection dot right before I put the truck in drive. If anything, its another way to double check Im hooked up correctly. Really like this 5th wheel hitch
Jerome C - 03/17/2021


- C16411-204
by:

Excellent product, perfect fit for my vehicle, arrived a couple days before it was supposed to. I did not want an "aftermarket" look, which is why I ordered a kit designed specifically for my vehicle. I did take the time to remove the heat shield to gain better access to the installation bolts. The biggest challenge was installing and tightening the bolts that go through the bed; there is not a lot of room between the trucks frame and the bed of the truck. The most challenging bolts were the ones on the driver side closest to the cab of the truck due to the placement of the gas tank. Trailer wiring was plug-and-play, hardest part was drilling the 2" hole in the side of my truck bed.



- C16411-204
by:
2014 GMC Sierra 2500

Directions are good, there are some great videos on the install that you can watch. It was very easy to actually install as much as I dreaded it. Installed it in an afternoon in my 2500 Sierra. I hated drilling the bed, but it came out perfect. Dropping the spare tire makes it way easier, it can be done without that, but it's a fight and we gave in and dropped it.



- C16411-204
by:

This is the second one of these that I ordered from e trailer. The first one I got at the same time as the fifth wheel hitch. I install on my 2015 Silverado 2500HD. I traded that Silverado for a 2018 Silverado 3500 Z71. Kept the hitch had to leave the rails. Great product and not bad to install. Took about 2 hours. If I trade again, I will get third.



- C16411-204
by:

This is a great product, but the install time estimates are way off. I have been a mechanic in my own shop for 19 years and I didn’t remove the rear wheels or the spare tire (because) it wasn’t necessary on my truck. I have a lift in my shop and it still took me 6 hours to install it! Trying to hold the spacers while trying to get the nuts installed on the 8 outer through the bed bolts was ridiculous! Terrible place to get to, lots of bad words! I’m thinking that buying the custom kit versus the universal was a bad idea, I have installed both and it was no quicker with this kit and it was almost a hundred dollars higher. My install was on a 2013 2500hd.



- C16411-204
by:
2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

The installation kit fit perfect but take the time to move the spare tire and the heat shield out of the way to make it easier.


Comments
The products have worked flawlessly no problems and thank you for checking back with me its nice when a company cares about there costumers. Next time I need any trailer products I will definitely be contacting etrailer.
Kevin L - 10/23/2017



- C16411-204
by:

Excellent service and product. There were some nuts and bolts missing from the damaged package caused during shipment however Emily from etrailer was quick to get me the replacement parts. This is the second order from this company and I am very satisfied with this company.



- C16411-204
by:
2011 Chevrolet Silverado

This bracket and rail kit was the perfect fit for my 2011 Silverado. Made the install of my hitch a breeze and allowed me to be on the road with my new trailer in no time.



- C16411-204
by:

Heavy steel construction. Went on without an issue. Everything fit like a glove. I would suggest the 10-bolt pattern as I did for extra strength and security.


Comments
Great, solid as they come.
Ron C - 05/15/2018



- C16411-204
by:

Installed on 2019 2500 just as instruction and have had no issues put bed mat ove just so things don't slide around when not towing 5th wheel



- C16411-204
by:

See my review on hitch. This product is great.



- C16411-204
by:

Good sturdy system. Once it is installed, easy to use. Installation can be involved.



- C16411-204
by:
2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

Shipped pretty fast however, the hardware bag was torn open and it was loose in the box so when I opened the box all the hardware scattered everywhere.



- C16411-204
by:
2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

Bought this with the Demco Hijacker auto-slide hitch. It fit my 2015 Chevy 2500 HD perfectly and is solid as a rock. etrailer shipped it quickly, and it arrived on time and undamaged. Excellent customer service.


Comments
Still very happy with it after more than a full year of usage. Makes it a lot easier to install remove the Demco Hijacker.
Jim P - 09/05/2019



- C16411-204
by:
2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

This was a challenge to install. By following the directions and other guides that were included I was able to install without any extra holes in the bed or other mishaps. Pulling some of the bolts through the frame was also a challenge. I would like to have the option of removing the rails from the bed without this being a major job. Your fifth wheel kit has done the task needed. We have pulled our camper about six thousand miles or more with out any problems.


Comments
Once the bed rails are installed, youll want to leave them in place. The hardware is really only meant to be torqued one time, so removing and reinstalling the rails repeatedly isnt recommended.
-- Etrailer Expert Mike L - 01/24/2019

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    We provide one-on-one, personalized service from the ordering process through the life of your product.
  • Trusted since 1946.

    We've been serving customers since our parts store first opened in 1946 and continue to be recognized by our customers, our vendors and third parties for exceptional service.
  • Returns Policy

    Need to return an item? No problem. Please read our Returns Policy for more information.

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