Bulldog Winch Powersports Series UTV Winch - Synthetic Rope - Hawse Fairlead - 4,000 lbs

Video Transcript for Bulldog Winch Powersports Series UTV Winch Installation - 2018 Honda Pioneer 1000-5

Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Pioneer 1000-5, we're going to be installing Bulldog's Powersports Winch, part number BDW15012. And in conjunction with that, we'll be using Bulldogs Custom Fit Steel Winch Mount, part number BDW15190. This winch is going to give you 4000 lbs of pulling power. So whether you're pulling your ATV out of a sticky situation, or maybe just pulling somebody else out of a spot, this thing should be able to handle it. It features a 1.8 horsepower motor, and it's a permanent magnet motor, so its going to be lighter than other styles. It comes with a remote handle that'll allow you to operate it away from the cab of your ATV.This plugs in to the outlet that you can mount in any location, and gives you another point to operate it.

You can see here is our other location where we can operate the winch in and out. You'll get a strap with your winch that can hook on to the hook to make it easier to pull it out, and you can operate it remotely here to release it, as well as pull it back it. And on the side of our winch here, there's a dial that can be turned to adjust it from the motor being engaged to a free spool mode. You can simply turn this lever, and now that we're in free spool mode we can pull it out manually.What's also great about being able to pull it out manually is that you can pull it out faster, get it where you need it, and it'll also save on wear of the internal components. And when pulling your ATV out using your winch, you want to make sure your using a Tree Saver.

This is going to save on wear on the cable that comes with your winch, and it'll give you a nice contacting point to hook up to the tree. We'll then slide it through. Got a good connection, and we can hook up our cable. Now our winch can pull us out.The remote switch is waterproof, and has a 20 foot lead, so you can operate it safely away from your ATV. The remote switch connection point also has a cover to keep out dirt, debris, and moisture.

The all steel winch uses a Planetary gear set and features an automatic mechanical brake. This mechanical brake can hold 100% of the load. It comes with a 1/4" diameter synthetic rope. This rope is as strong as steel, yet it's lightweight, and it's safer to handle because it doesn't fray and get sharp like steel cables may. The synthetic rope is 50 foot long, and comes with a large steel hook to make a good solid connection point.We'll begin our installation by removing the front bumper.

There's going to be one Allen key that you're gonna have to remove here at the bottom. You'll remove that with a five millimeter Allen key. You'll also remove the one on the other side, then just behind the plastic shield that's next to your grill, you're gonna find two bolts located here on the frame, we're gonna need to remove both of those bolts using a 12 millimeter socket. We'll remove the two on the other side as well.Then just in front of your lower control arm bolt, you're gonna find another bolt here. We're gonna remove that with a 14 millimeter socket. Then agan we'll remove the one on the other side as well. Now you just want to work your bumper out. You might have to work it up and down to get it to slide out. Just pull outward working it up and down.We'll now install our bracket. Here we have the top tubes of our bumper, our bracket we're gonna install with our ears facing towards the bottom. Small ears here, and the longer ears facing up towards our tubes here. We'll then take our bolt, we'll slide on our flat washer. We're gonna slide it through the bracket, and through the hole, just below the tube that slides into the frame, and thread on lock nut on the other side. We'll do the same thing on the other side. We're gonna leave those bolts just hand tight for now. We're gonna line up the holes at the other end of our bracket with the holes in the tubes, we're gonna use the bolts that we removed from there and just slide those through.This is just gonna help hold it in place and make sure everything lines up. We'll then tighten down our hardware that we installed here towards the front of the bumper, while these other pins are in, just to help keep it in line. We'll tighten these down using 13 millimeter sockets and wrenches. We can now install our winch onto our bracket.We'll now prepare our hardware. We're gonna take the longer bolts that come with it, slide on a lock washer and a flat washer. We'll do this with four bolts. We'll then take our winch, we're gonna line it up with our mounting bracket, we're gonna go through our bracket first and then thread it into our winch. We'll do this with the three remaining holes. We can then tighten down that hardware with a 13 millimeter socket.To install the front plate we're gonna need to elongate these holes, so that way it'll fit. You can use a Dremel tool with a grinding bit to do that. We're just going to go ahead and use some drill bits. We're gonna use an 1/8" to make a pilot hole, and a 7/16th to wallow that out to the right size. We'll then use a file just to clean up any burrs. We'll then use a little bit of black spray paint just to prevent any corrosion from occurring.Now we can install our front bracket. We're gonna pull our cable through, slide it through the bracket. We can now install our hardware through the holes on each side of the bracket. We're gonna be using the shorter bolts that come with the kit. Slide a flat washer on. Slide that down through the opening, and on the other side we're gonna thread on a flat washer, lock washer, and nut. We'll then take the same size bolt that we used to mount our winch onto the bracket, slide a flat washer on it, slide that through the bracket, slide that through our front bumper, and on the other side, we're gonna place on a flat washer, followed by a lock washer, and a nut. And we're gonna do that again for the other hole. And tighten down your hardware using a 13 millimeter wrench and socket.Now on this side again, we'll take our cotter pin out of the hook that comes with the kit. Slide out the pin, slip this over the cable, reinstall the pin, and then reinstall the cotter pin. Now that'll keep it from pulling back through. We can now reinstall our bumper. We'll line up the tubes back with our frame, and then just work it back in. We can now reinstall all the hardware that we removed. I like to do all the hardware just kind of loosely installed at first, not all the way tight, that way it'll make it easier to line up all your bolt holes. Once you've got all the bolts that attach into the metal end, you can go ahead and tighten them down. The ones that attach to your plastic parts you're gonna leave loose to install our wiring. That'll make it a lot easier if these are loose.Now you're gonna want to find a proper mounting location for your wiring. We're gonna go ahead and mount it here in this location, but before we mount it up we're gonna go ahead and hook up some of the wires. Now before you put your wiring onto your relay box here, you are gonna wanna make sure you slide on the protective covering. We're gonna leave them off, for video purposes, so you can clearly see which wire we're installing onto which one. We'll hook up our short wires, the black and the red that are shorter, to the bottom here on our relay, closest to the mounting bracket. So we'll start by hooking up our black wire, and then our red wire. I got them kind of heading off towards the driver's side, as that's the way the wires are gonna run down to our winch. Then tighten those down with a 10 millimeter socket.We're then gonna hook up our longer wires to the ones that are closest to these three little wire pegs here. So wire up the red where it's marked red, and then black where it's marked black. And we're gonna go off the opposite direction for these wires, as there's plenty of length to reach the battery from there. And we'll tighten these down. We'll then use some self-tapping screws to mount our relay. Now these don't come with the kit, but you can pick some up at your local hardware store. Get it about where I want it. We'll move the relay out of the way, we're not gonna go all the way down with it, just enough to where we can slide it in the slot. And then we'll tighten it down.We then took our longer wires, zip tied up any excess we'd have. This is where we can hook it up to our battery. We're not gonna hook that up until the end because we don't wanna cause any shorts. And our shorter wires we have coming off here, we're gonna run those down towards our winch. Our winch wiring's located here. We'll connect our red wire to the post with the red bushing, one washer will go on, followed by the red wire, another washer, and then the nut. And then our black wire is gonna connect to the other post with the white bushing, we'll need one of the washers one, slide on our black wire, slide on another washer, and thread the nut back on. We'll then tighten those down with a 10 millimeter wrench. Now I'm done hooking everything up towards our winch, so we can put the Allen head bolts back in to our plastic piece on our bumper.Next we're gonna install our remote switch. This is going to install wherever you want to put it. We're going to be putting ours just to the lower left of the steering wheel, down here in this area. We're gonna be using a step bit to get it up to the appropriate size. Make sure you give yourself enough room on each side to mount both of your screws. So we should be good about there, so we're gonna start drilling it out. So we're just gonna check to make sure it's gonna fit, so we're gonna poke our wires through. We're just gonna pull them down for now, this isn't the way we're gonna route them, we just need to make sure that it's gonna fit properly. And that'll fit right in there, so we're good to go there.Now we're gonna make our hole for our other switch that we're gonna be mounting up here. This is gonna be your winch in and out switch that you can just press here, this is for the extension cable. This is the switch that comes with your kit, and this will mount anywhere you'd like it to allow it to go in and out whenever you press the switch. Our customer opt to upgrade to an LED lit switch, so when you press the button it'll light up. So we're gonna be cutting this switch off, and wiring it up to this switch instead. You can mount this switch wherever you'd like, there's a little bracket, you can use a self-tapping screw to run it into any location. The switch the customer bought we're gonna be mounting right here. So we'll need to cut out a rectangle hole in this location in order for this switch to pop in. So we're gonna hold our switch up, roughly the location we want it to be mounted, and then we're just gonna draw around it with a paint stick. And now we'll cut out the area inside where we marked.We're gonna start with our step bit again, just to take out as much material as possible. You could also use a cutting wheel to cut it out. If you weren't able to get it all the way off with your cutting wheel, you can always take your utility knife just to finish up those little edges that didn't quite cut all the way. We're using a pair of needle-nose pliers as well to kind of just pull those pieces out of there, and to keep our fingers away from the razor knife. We can then go back with our file.We'll now need to get our wires over to our relay. So to do that we're gonna use a piece of fish wire. In this case it's a piece of airline tubing, but you can use anything that's flexible but still somewhat rigid in order to get this fed up toward where your relay is. So we'll feed it in, we'll just be working it over towards our relay. Then when we've got it worked over there we can tape our wiring to it and pull it through. We're just using some electrical tape to do this. It is a good idea, too, to make sure you wrap it around the tips, so that way they don't get caught on anything when you're trying to pull it through. Also on this wire, your red wire will need to go there as well, and it's significantly shorter, so we just taped it right to our harness at it's maximum length. That way when we pull this through we'll still be able to get to our red wire. We can also run the wire for our remote connector as well. So we've got all that loose, we're gonna push it through the hole that we made for it, we're gonna run that up to the square hole that we just made, and we're gonna pull that wire through. Now we can tape this to our fish wire as well. Now back on the other side we'll pull it through.We'll now separate our wires from our pull wire. Now if your just using the regular switch that comes with your kit, you don't need to go any further with this, but since we've upgraded to that switch with the LED, in order for those LEDs to operate they need a ground wire. So we're gonna tape a black wire, which you can pick up here at etrailer.com, with part number 16-1-1. And we've got about 6 feet of it, roughly. You don't really need it that long, 4 feet is probably plenty, but we got a little excess just it case. Taped it to that wire, and we're just gonna pull our switch back through that rectangular hole to get that ground wire fed through. You don't want to pull all the way through, just until we can get to our black wire. You can now cut off that black wire that we ran through for our ground, separate it from the rest of the wires that we taped it to, peel that electrical tape off of there, it's not needed anymore.Now if you are upgrading to that other switch, we're gonna need to cut this switch off. Now I'm gonna leave some extra wire still attached to the switch in case the customer wants to use this switch to wire it up to something else in the future. So we're gonna come back a little bit, and we're just gonna cut the wires here. We'll then need to peel back some of the sheathing so we can access the wires. And now we'll need to strip back each of these three wires, as well as the ground wire that we ran through. And then on each wire we're gonna crimp on a small blue spade terminal. These spade terminals will allow us to slide the wires right on to our new switch. And you can pick up these spade terminals here at etrailer.com. And we can now connect our switch. The ground wire that we ran is gonna go to the lone terminal located up here, so we'll slide that one on. The center pin is gonna be our power wire, which is the red wire. We'll then hook up our black wire to the top one, where it says "in", and the green one to the bottom one where it says "out". And our switch is now ready.Now before we slide it all the way in we're gonna go ahead and just let it dangle for now, so we can test everything out to make sure it works before we slide that in, because this can be difficult to remove.We'll now take the wiring that came from our extension connector, and we're gonna plus that in to our relay. So we're just gonna do this color coded, green's gonna go to green, black's gonna go to black. So just plus those together, and then we'll plug these together. Make sure you slide your sheathing up over the terminals there just to protect from any shorts. And then off of that you have more connectors. Those are gonna connect to our switch. So we'll grab the harness for our switch, and we're gonna match those wire colors up as well, plug those in.The red wires, both will connect to an ignition positive source. So this is a voltage source that is only present when the ignition is turned to the on position. So in order to do this we're gonna be tapping into one of the fuses, particularly the accessory fuse, which is the 15 amp fuse located here between the two 10 amps. And in order to tap into that we're gonna be using a fuse tap. This makes it nice and safe, and a nice, clean installation, we're not having to splice into any of the vehicles wiring.So we're gonna strip back both ends of our red wire, we'll go ahead and twist those wires together, and we're gonna crimp it on to our fuse tap. We'll now remove that 15 amp fuse, and we're gonna take our fuse tap, we're gonna slide that 15 amp fuse into the bottom location that's the closest to these terminals. We're then gonna take the 10 amp fuse that came with our fuse tap and slide it into the top terminals, and we're just going to install that right where we removed that fuse. Our wire here will just stick out the side, and before you can reinstall the cover you are gonna have to make a little notch in it there just to allow that wire to poke out. So we're just gonna kind of line that up, see it's about right where that M is there, so we'll notch that out. Then we can reinstall our cover.We'll then strip back the black wire, and we're gonna crimp on a ring terminal. You can pick up ring terminals here at etrailer.com. We'll connect this ring terminal to a ground wire on our battery here. We'll remove that with a 10 millimeter socket. We'll slide the bolt through the ring terminal that we just crimped on, and we're just gonna reinstall that bolt. And then tighten the bolt back down. We can now hook up our power and ground wires to our battery. So we'll remove our power wire, we're going to slide it through the terminal, and then tighten it back down. And now you hook up your ground wire in the same way.Now's a good time to test everything out before you clean up all your wiring and mount your switch completely. So go ahead and turn your ATV on, and then operate the switch. Verify that your winch goes out when you press "out", and it comes back in when you press "in". Now we'll pull our wiring through and use some self-tapping screws to mount the remote switch connection point. You can pick up some self-tapping screws at your local hardware store. And for our other switch we're just gonna pull the wiring through, and press that switch into place. It'll pop in to the rectangle that we cut out. We can now take our wiring, and we're just gonna bundle it together, and zip tie it in place.And that completes our installation of Bulldog's Powersports Series UTV Winch, part number BDW15012, on our 2018 Pioneer 1000-5.