1. Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring
  2. Tekonsha
  3. Custom Fit
  4. Trailer Hitch Wiring
  5. 4 Flat
  6. Powered Converter
T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Item # 118712
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Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring

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Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring 118712 - 4 Flat - Tekonsha
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Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom wiring harness. T-One connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered ModuLite reduces strain on wiring system. Call 800-298-8924 to order Tekonsha custom fit vehicle wiring part number 118712 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Tekonsha products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring reviews from real customers.
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  • Reviews (53)
  • Q & A (35)
  • Videos (5)
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Tekonsha Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring - 118712

  • Custom Fit
  • Trailer Hitch Wiring
  • Tekonsha
  • 4 Flat
  • Powered Converter

Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom wiring harness. T-One connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered ModuLite reduces strain on wiring system.


Features:

  • Provides a 4-way flat trailer connector at the back of your vehicle to power your trailer's signal lights
    • Compatible with 5-pole, 6-pole and 7-pole adapters (sold separately)
  • Connects quickly and easily
    • Locate connection points behind tail lights
    • Plug in T-connector
    • Connect hot lead to car battery
  • Includes ModuLite power module that connects directly to battery to avoid overloading vehicle's electrical system
  • Constructed of 16-gauge bonded wire
  • Comes with dust cap for 4-way flat connector


Specs:

  • Maximum amperage:
    • Stop/turn lights: 4.2 amps per circuit
    • Tail lights: 7.5 amps per circuit
  • 1-Year limited warranty


Installation

This custom-fit T-connector plugs into your vehicle's wiring harness, which is located behind the driver's-side and passenger's-side tail lights. You will have to remove the tail light assemblies and some interior paneling to access this harness. Once you've plugged in the connector, run the red hot lead up to your car battery. Connect the included fuse holder, and then connect the fuse holder to the positive terminal on your battery.


T-One Connection Location Points Behind Tail Lights

Once installation is complete, the 4-way connector will be stowed beneath your vehicle, near the trailer hitch. A mounting bracket (sold separately) is recommended to keep the connector secure.


It is recommended that you use a small amount of grease on all electrical connections - the plugs on your automobile and the 4-pole connector itself - to help prevent corrosion.


ModuLite Powered Tail Light Converter

A ModuLite power module is built into this T-One connector. With a ModuLite, your trailer's lights will be powered without overloading your vehicle's electrical system. Because the module draws power directly from your car's battery and bypasses the electrical routes that are used by a basic wiring harness, there is virtually no draw on your tail light circuits.



118712 Tekonsha T-1 T-Connector - 4 Wire - Modu-Lite Converter Included

Installation Details 118712 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles



California residents: click here


Video of T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2017 Chrysler Pacifica

Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Chrysler Pacifica, we're gonna take a look at and also show you how to install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with the 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. Part number is: 118712. Now, the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness is gonna be exactly what you need to have a 4-pole flat trailer connector on the back of your vehicle. Looks like we've got a dust plug there. This is gonna take care of your right turn and brake, left turn and brake, running lights, and the bare terminal there is gonna be for ground, dust terminal to cover that up. But this is gonna work out really well for cargo carriers or any other trailer that has a 4-flat connector.Now, powering the system is gonna be our module box.

This gets standalone power from the battery. This does a couple things. It's gonna send out the power to our trailer, so we're never gonna have to worry about overloading the vehicle's wiring system, but the module is also designed to isolate the trailer side from the vehicle side. So any shorts or any problems on the trailer won't be transferred into our vehicle, so it's gonna offer us some protection. As we said, it's powered through the 12-volt wire here, so the signals from our t-connector these get plugged in between the tail light housing and the factory connector it's gonna bring the signal down through our wire into our converter box.

That then knows that it needs to send that signal out on the trailer, whatever's appropriate. You're also gonna have a small ground wire there to connect it. The yellow and brown are gonna run to the driver's side, the green wire goes to the passenger side.Tekonsha also provides a really nice hardware kit. It's gonna have just about everything you're gonna need to make your connections going forward. Compared to other wiring harnesses available, they provide heat-shrink butt connectors versus the standard butt connector, so the connections since we are making them outside the vehicle, we recommend these.

They give you a good amount of zip ties, more than what the competitors offer, to kind of help you get this wire ran up front. Then of course, we're gonna have the fuse holder there to protect everything, and if we need it, the self-tapping screw here for the ground wire.Another thing I feel like sets the Tekonsha system apart from its competitors, are in its design. It's a very durable and rugged module here. You can see, inside there's a rubberized potting material, so all the circuit boards are in here and then they fill it up. It's like a rubber epoxy so it gives it some shock absorption.

And again, comparing this to competitors models, these are definitely a more durable module.Now to begin our installation we're gonna open the rear hatch of our Pacifica, and on the inside edge of the tail lights here, we're gonna have two screws. We've got one located here at the top, one located here at the bottom edge. We're gonna use a Torx bit, it's a T30. We'll go in there, we're gonna remove the two screws here on the driver's side and on the passenger side. Gently pull rearward here. We need to separate a pressure clip or two that's on this front side. You may need to put a little bit of gentle pressure kind of here on this front side to separate those. Just be sure you're using something plastic or something rubber. You don't want to have metal in here doing any scratching. Now we'll push down on that tab, that black portion. Pull that apart to separate it.We're gonna be bringing the plug for our wiring, the yellow and brown here on the driver's side, right up through this gap. To help us out with that I'm gonna use a pull wire. You could use a coat hanger, a stiff piece of wire, really anything that's kind of stiff that you can get to run down behind this bumper so you can access it from the bottom. Now, whatever you use, make sure you kind of tuck it in somewhere or zip tie it off here if you want to, just to keep it from falling all the way through. We'll do that on both sides of the vehicle. Now we're gonna be pulling down, at least partially pulling down, this rear panel. We'll start by taking out the three screws right around this outside edge. These are gonna be a 8mm socket. Over here behind the exhaust you'll see one more. We'll take that out. Then we'll just kind of pull that out from behind the edge there. We just want some room to kind of get in here and work. Also gonna be pulling out a couple of these. These are gonna be a 10mm socket. Pull that down there and get in there and work.Now, just forward of that, right here in the middle section these are the rear cross member here we're gonna take out the two 10mm headed bolts and the same kind of fasteners right up above that. This is basically for when we run our wire up to the battery, just while we got the socket out we might as well do it. Come to the driver's side edge, should be able to get under this without any kind of issue, but I'm gonna take out the fasteners that run up this edge so we can get our wire tucked up and in there. As you can see, that's gonna give us good room. We'll have plenty of room to run that wire up and through.Now we'll take our yellow and brown wire, just gonna tape it off to our pull wire. We'll use that to get it pulled up through. We want to plug that in behind the tail light housing. That'll give us an idea of how much slack we're gonna have to mount our box. Stuff that up in there, and we'll get it pulled on through. You want to just start gently working that up through. You might have to kind of turn it and pull it and help it out a little bit. We're just gonna continue to bring that through and it'll be a little bit tight here, but you should be able to get your plug and your rubber portion through.Now we're gonna use a little bit of dielectric grease on each of our two female plugs. This is gonna prevent moisture from building up in there, causing corrosion. We'll slide those two together. The part number for that dielectric grease if you don't have it is: 11755. You want to hear a little bit of a click when you slide those together and then push that prong down. Now the rest of our factory wiring, we can tuck that down in, as well as those two plugs. That'll leave us with our one plug to go into the back of the tail light housing. Then we get that plugged in til we hear the click, then we'll put this right back in place. And we'll replace the two screws that we took out earlier.Now we're gonna remove a few more fasteners here just to get this panel a little bit further down, give us a little bit more room. Now we can get our module box mounted into position. To do that we'll use the double sided tape that's provided. Just want to use some rubbing alcohol and clean off the back of the box. We're gonna be using the back side of the bumper beam here to mount it, so we'll clean that off, as well. That way we can make sure our tape gets a good hold there and sticks properly. We'll pull one side of that off, get that placed on the back side of our module, then we'll stick it right up there in the back side of the beam. Then we'll extend out our green wire there, and both that and our 4-pole wire we'll start running toward the passenger side.On the top side of the bumper, basically above each of these bolts, there's a little bracket or a little hanger that supports that, so it's a good idea to tuck these in behind that as we bring it over. Now of course, this is only gonna come out to our hitch here. We're not going beyond that. So we'll take the length that we want, determine how much you're gonna need hanging out of the back of the vehicle, and we get that secured off. And then we can just zip tie the excess up and out of the way. I like to use the cover to go around the safety chain connection point. That'll keep that from hanging down behind you. Now we're gonna use a little electrical tape just like we did on the driver's side here, for the passenger side, and we'll get this pulled up through. We'll do the same thing here for the passenger side and get everything connected and put back in place.All right. Now I'm gonna pull my slack back out of my green wire and gather it up over here with my excess 4-pole, and then we can zip tie that off, either up to the wire loom that's up in here, or to our hitch. Now we'll connect our black wire. I feel like it's easier to start here at this cross member. We can get that wire up and over. We'll run it right underneath this panel, right back to our box, where we'll make our connection. Once we've got it up here by our box, we want to strip both ends back the one on the bulk wire, and the one coming from our module box. We'll grab one of the provided heat-shrink butt connectors, slide that in and get that crimped down, then we'll use a heat source to shrink that down. Now, you can use a lighter, a mini-torch, or a heat gun; whatever you've got available to you. Just give it a little bit of heat at a time, it'll start shrinking. Just give it time to shrink down all the way, and eventually you'll see a little bit of clear gel that comes out of the end there, and the wire almost looks like it gets bigger or magnifies.Now we'll pull our slack out. There's a little bit of a hole right here in this flange, so I'm gonna use that just to zip tie it off to. That way as we run it forward we won't be pulling on that box. As you run the wire forward towards the battery, you just want to be sure to avoid any sharp edges, any heat sources, anything else really that might cause damage to the wire. Now we can take care of getting our ground wire secured. We're gonna secure this right to the same flange that we just zip tied our black wire off to. We want to use a 1/4" bit driver or socket; through the ring terminal and into that flange steel. We want that to be secure enough so you can't move or wiggle that terminal. Now you can use another zip tie or two, just kind of secure everything off, kind of bunch it up, make it look nice.Now, we've routed our wire beyond this rear panel so you just want to tuck it back up in place and return the fasteners. As we run our wire forward it's a great idea to use plenty of zip ties and secure it out anywhere you can. Now we'll return these fasteners. In the wheel well here, we've got one 10mm bolt right up here that we're gonna take out. That should allow us to run our wiring up and over. We'll go right over top of that brake line. That'll keep everything away from the sway bar or the steering mechanism there that moves. Now we'll push some of our excess straight up. Our battery is gonna be located right up kind of in the forward portion of the engine compartment here on the driver's side, so we just want to have enough up there so we can get ahold of it from the top.Now, to clear out some room here above our battery, we're gonna take this air duct out. Just want to lift up on the front. Once that comes up past the top here just kind of slide it out forward we should be able to reach right down in here, kind of underneath the air box will be where that'll come up. We'll draw our slack through. Just want to make sure you get out all of the slack; you don't want anything hanging in behind. And then choose an area right up here to zip tie that off so we don't have any slack going back under the vehicle. Then we'll pull out of the back of the cover, allow that to come forward. And you can decide either to loosen up this stud, put your ring terminal behind that of course, once you go through the fuse holder or you can use an M6 x .8 thread flange nut, and use one of these two studs if they're available.Next up will be to take our fuse holder, and we want to cut that the 4 or 4:30 position. It's gonna give us two ends. We'll strip both of those back. To one end of that we're gonna add our second butt connector, to the other end we'll add our provided ring terminal. I like to leave just one little coil of wire. That's in case you ever need to make any changes or add a different fuse holder, you'll have a little bit of extra. And there's plenty of room down there to tuck it away. And we'll strip it back, and it's gonna be put into the other end of our butt connector. Now we can bring the ring terminal over our stud. We're using a flange nut, as you can see. Go right to that stud. You need a 10mm socket to tighten that down, but if you go with this stud you're gonna need a 10mm socket for that, as well. We should be able to tilt that down just a little bit and close that cover right over the top.Now, for the excess that we have, I'm gonna bring that up there's a wire loom right down here just zip tie it off right to that after we place our fuse in the fuse holder. Put the cap over there. And you can see, there's a small hole in the bottom of the fuse holder. If you run your zip tie right through that, you can gather up all your excess and get everything secured. Once that's taken care of we'll put our duct back in place. Just gonna snap down in position.Now, to test out our wiring here, we just want to pull that off the hitch. We're gonna use part number I26 here, just a standard 4-pole tester. As we go through the lights in the vehicle, we should see these come on accordingly. We'll start by turning on our running lights, our left blinker, our right blinker, and our brakes.With everything working properly, that's gonna complete our installation of Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number: 118712, on our 2017 Chrysler Pacifica.


Customer Reviews

T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector - 118712

Average Customer Rating:  4.5 out of 5 stars   (53 Customer Reviews)

Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom wiring harness. T-One connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered ModuLite reduces strain on wiring system.

- 118712
by:
2018 Chrysler Pacifica

Love the products. Love the how-to DIY installation videos. Customer for life. 614999



- 118712
by:
2017 Chrysler Pacifica

This product # 118712 fits perfectly with my 2017 Chrysler Pacifica Touring L. After I installed it, all the lights are working. I am very happy with the product. One word of caution to those who has the same vehicle but different Models, make sure to check the correct item no. The previous item # 18723 that I ordered did not fit so I had to return it . But anyhow, everything provided in the package is excellent. It takes a lot of work to hook the wires and connections, but it is worth your time to do it yourself. Thank you !!! 323263



- 118712
by:

great products, great service and the installation videos were a big help ! 448868



- 118712
by:
2018 Chrysler Pacifica

Very nice product and connections are easy. Running the wires up to the lights and to the battery is a pain though. Be prepared to get frustrated. Also the driver side connector is pretty short so mount the box up as high into the bumper as you can get it. 603951



- 118712
by:

Took 4-5 hours to install. Required wire to battery that ran under underbody cover (had to remove entire underbody cover to install). It works fine, but install time / difficulty not fully explained in description / instructions. 483488



- 118712
by:

Great hitch. A little more difficult to install than , other etrailer hitches I have installed. Probably because of the newer auto design, and that I am older now (91). Looks great, less noticeable, being set more under the van, then the other hitches that I have installed. I am very happy with the looks. Getting the hitch with the complete installation pkg. is the way to go, all comes together in one pkg. Thank you etrailer. 450174



- 118712
by:

Looks great and the service was terrifi c! 481765



- 118712
by:
2017 Chrysler Pacifica

I ordered a towing hitch and wire harness for my 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. Etrailer was the only website that had it in stock because of how new the product was. Product arrived in a timely manner without shipping charge. Well worth the money I spent. I wouldn't recommend that a lay person attempt to install as It took my mechanic 3 hours. The hitch itself was easy but hooking up the wiring was very time taking as you must take a lot of the under bladder off to run a wire to the battery. Also not much room to make connections to rear taillight. 293076



- 118712
by:
2017 Chrysler Pacifica

Trailer hitch and wiring harness came quickly and in good order. However, the wiring harness connectors would not fit through the body panel because of internal supports and tail light wires, so I had to cut it and splice it under the car. Harness needs to be redesigned to fit through the small channel under the tail lights. Connectors were far too big to be pulled through. 498637


Comments
Typically we dont recommend cutting into a wiring harness. The cavity below the taillight IS indeed a tight fit, but if the connectors are fed through one at a time, you should be able to get them through. To make things easier, a straightened wire coat hanger can be taped to the connector, and used to guide the connector through to the underside of the vehicle. This process is shown in the linked installation video.
-- Mike L - 04/20/2018

37485
Comments
Trailer hitch and wiring harness both working fine. Only problem was installing wire because connectors wouldn’t fit inside corner post. I had to cut wires, install them top down and then splice wires under car with heat shrink insulation. But that worked and I am happy with it. Thanks
Frederick - 04/22/2019

54251

- 118712
by:

Great customer service Very fast and free shipping Installation videos really helpful Thank You 508580



- 118712
by:
2017 Chrysler Pacifica

This is the 4th hitch wiring harness I have installed in 3 vehicles (the others were a '99 Audi A4 and an '08 Mazda 3), and it was by far the hardest. The instructions were sufficient, but fishing the wires through the body by the taillight was extraordinarily difficult. This was made worse when I had to do it a second time after discovering that there wasn't enough wire available to allow the tail-light to be mounted again. All that is moot though, because the harness DIDN'T WORK. I have a 2017 Pacifica Hybrid, so I'm not sure if it's somehow different than the non-hybrid models, but none of the lights worked after install. I tried to troubleshoot with a fluke and confirmed that no signals were getting through the module to the 4-pin connector. Then as a last-ditch effort I tried to directly connect wires to the 4-pin connector without the power wire, thus destroying the harness by cutting wires; this was predictably unsuccessful. In full disclosure, I also tried checking the signals on the taillight wires when using the brake and turn signals, and got completely unexpected results (e.g. brake wire with brakes on = 0V, vs 12V with brakes off). Clearly I don't understand how modern signal lights are wired, but then that's why I bought a kit. Surprised that I seem to be the outlier here. Seems I either got a defective product, or there is something unique about the hybrid that makes it invalid... 545923


Comments
The best method of troubleshooting is to check the input wires from the connection to the vehicle to the converter box, then the output wires from the converter to the trailer connector. If the signals are reaching the converter, but not leaving it, the converter is faulty. If no signals are reaching the converter, check the connections where the harness plugs inline with the vehicle wiring, making sure they are fully plugged in. Make sure the fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder where the power wire attaches to the battery. For more troubleshooting info, use the provided link.
-- Mike L - 07/26/2018

41498

- 118712
by:

instructions were great hitch went on easily and looks great totally almost invisible all you see is the receiver we ran the wire for the 12 Volts to the front of the car on the inside tucked under the plastic trim along the doors and thru a grommet pre existing under the dash. 447360



- 118712
by:
2018 Chrysler Pacifica

This fit my 2018 Pacifica Touring Plus! I compared a picture of the plug someone posted on this site to my taillight and they were the same. I took my time on the install and it took me about 1.5 hours. The 18' Pacifica has a bunch of under body shields that makes this install take longer. I have installed at least five of these harnesses on my vehicles and this one was very straightforward. I also purchased the Curt Class III hitch from etrailer and installed it a couple weeks ago. Attached is a picture of the taillight connector on my 18' Touring Plus. The difference in plugs between models is the position of the two tabs. 563415



- 118712
by:
Chrysler Pacifica

Installation is simple and straight forward. The only hard part is getting the lighting connectors up through the rear shell of the Pacifica. There is one problem ... the length of the wiring from the power module to the driver side taillight should be at least a foot longer ... I had installed the OEM trailer hitch which replaces the rear frame cross member (that's the collision member behind the rear fascia). This side of the wiring is so short I had to tape the module to the hitch cross member behind the fascia. 571797



- 118712
by:
2018 Chrysler Pacifica

I purchased a hitch and wiring harness for my 2018 Chrysler Pacifica from etrailer. I have installed numerous receivers before but this was by far the easiest to understand and install. Thank you etrailer 754988



- 118712
by:
2019 Chrysler Pacifica

It's exactly as advertised and seems to be of good quality for the price. 738604



- 118712
by:

Great product and relatively easy to install. Hardest part was getting the vehicle up high enough to get under to pass the hot wire from the back to the battery. 736258



- 118712
by:

Arived yesterday, checked itout today everything looks great thank you. Going to have it installed on monday by the dealership. 735547



- 118712
by:

It was perfect! Took a little longer than you said, but may be, because Iam 80. 733932



- 118712
by:

Fast shipping great product and easy install thanks ingenious 726263



- 118712
by:
2017 Chrysler Pacifica

OK, pretty much plug and play.. 720980



- 118712
by:

Received very good advice on what to buy for my auto. Could have used another foot or two on the left tail light cable ,could not mount as instructed. Running the power from rear to battery very awkward & time consuming. But the Dealer quoted 800-$900 ! 717240



- 118712
by:

I have not installed it yet but with help of [on-line videos] I hope it will go great. My previous experience with you was great. 703033



- 118712
by:

My second purchase, & I am completely satisfied with the quality, price, & quick delivery. 676720



- 118712
by:
2018 Chrysler Pacifica

Product works well. Just a very tedious task to run the power wire to the front of the vehicle. 674569


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  • Ball Mount Recommendation for a 2018 Chrysler Pacifica Touring L and Class III Hitch
    For trailer hitch # 76046 and your 2018 Chrysler Pacifica I recommend etrailer ball mount kit # 989900. It comes with 2 ball mounts; one with a 3/4 inch rise or 2 inch drop and one with a 2-3/4 inch rise or 4 inch drop. It also includes a 1-7/8 inch ball, 2 inch ball, hitch pin with clip, and a storage bag. If the ball mount kit does not have the right rise or drop to tow the trailer level, use the link I have included that explains how to measure to choose a ball mount to tow the trailer...
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  • Towing Capacity Of 2019 Chrysler Pacifica with etrailer.com Trailer Hitch Receiver 98903
    The etrailer.com Trailer Hitch Receiver part # e98903 for the 2017 - 2019 Chrysler Pacifica is rated for 4,000 lbs of trailer weight. However, you are only as strong as your weakest component which in your case is the vehicle. If your Pacifica came with a trailer tow package, you can tow 3,600 lbs with a trailer tongue weight of 360 lbs. If the vehicle did not come with a tow package it can tow 1,500 lbs with a trailer tongue weight of 149 lbs. You want to make sure the loaded weight of...
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  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2017 Chrysler Pacifica
    For the 2017 Chrysler Pacifica you will want the Draw Tite Hitch part # 76046 which is a Class III 2 inch hitch confirmed as a fit for the vehicle. The liftgate performance would change slightly but woudl still function. You would just need to kick to either side of the hitch opening instead of below it. For trailer wiring you would want the part # 118712 which is a confirmed fit. If you wanted to do some towing you might be interested in etrailer ball mount kit # 989900. It comes...
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  • Trailer Hitch and Towing Accessories Recommendation-2017 Chrysler Pacifica
    The Curt # C13383 Class III trailer hitch includes all necessary installation hardware, which is shown in the photo you provided. Might I make a suggestion? I recommend going with the Draw-Tite Class III, part # 76046 which is a similar design of comparable quality at a more reasonable price. The Draw-Tite hitch also includes all necessary hardware. If you plan on using the hitch for towing purposes, you'll need a few other items to complete your towing system: Trailer wiring harness,...
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  • Correct Trailer Wiring Harness Confirmed to Fit a 2018 Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid Limited
    You are correct that the Curt # C56332 does not fit a 2018 Chrysler Pacifica. The correct Curt wiring for your van is # C56322. I'm guessing the error was made because of how close the part numbers are to each other. With that being said I recommend using the Tekonsha wiring, part # 118712, that's also confirmed to fit your Pacifica. We usually find the Tekonsha wiring harnesses to be of better quality than the Curt products. If you don't already have a hitch Curt offers a Class...
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  • Best Hitch, Wiring, Bike Rack, & Cargo Carrier w/Lights Recommendation for a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica
    Great news! I can help you with all those things for your 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. First let's start with a hitch for your vehicle. I recommend the 2 inch Class III Draw-Tite # 76046 hitch, because of its higher weight capacity. This 2 inch receiver hitch will be more compatible with accessories on the market. It is also compatible with the Limited, LX, and Touring models. For the wiring for the cargo carriers lights like the Pro Series # 63153 with LED light kit # 98174LED, you...
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  • Brake Controller and Install Recommendation for 2017 Chrysler Pacifica
    Not all vehicles come with brake controller wiring under the dash. That said your 2017 Chrysler Pacifica SHOULD have a 7-way trailer wiring harness at the rear of it and should have brake controller wiring under the dash. If there is the rear 7-way all you need is the # 3045-P and the Brake Controller IQ part # TK90160. If you have no wiring you'll need to go the hardwire option you also mentioned. The 4-way part # 118712, the adapter and install kit # ETBC7, and then finally the brake...
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  • Trailer Hitch and Wiring Recommendations for a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica to Tow a Pop Up Camper
    It looks like the gross weight of the pop up camper is 2,800 pounds based on the picture you have submitted so a 3,500 pound towing capacity from your 2017 Chrysler Pacifica is more than enough. For a trailer hitch I recommend Draw-Tite hitch # 76046 because with it only the receiver will be visible unlike other hitch options. Since you plan on towing I also recommend etrailer ball mount kit # 989900. It comes with 2 ball mounts; one with a 3/4 inch rise or 2 inch drop and one with a...
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  • Comparing the Tekonsha Trailer Wiring Harness for 2018 Chrysler Pacifica # 118723 and # 118712
    The T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # 118723 is the custom fit for 2017 and 2018 Chrysler Pacifica Touring and LX models. The T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # 118712 is the fit for 2017 and 2018 Chrysler Pacifica (excluding hybrid), Touring L Plus, Touring L, and Limited models. The connectors are different based on the trim models but it appears the modulite is the same amperage.
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  • Trailer Hitch and Wiring for a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica Limited
    In addition to the trailer hitch # 76046 for your 2017 Chrysler Pacifica there are a few other items I recommend to set the vehicle up for towing. I also recommend etrailer ball mount kit # 989900. It comes with 2 ball mounts; one with a 3/4 inch rise or 2 inch drop and one with a 2-3/4 inch rise or 4 inch drop. It also includes a 1-7/8 inch ball, 2 inch ball, hitch pin with clip, and a storage bag. If the ball mount kit does not have the right rise or drop to tow the trailer level,...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch and Wiring for a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica
    The Curt Class II hitch that fits the 2017 Chrysler Pacifica is # C12180. But if you want to use this hitch for an accessory such as a bike rack or cargo carrier Curt requires the use of stabilization strap # 18050 per their warranty requirements. To avoid having to use the strap I recommend using Draw-Tite hitch # 36798 which does not have the strap requirement. If you plan on doing some towing the recommended ball mount is # 36071. For a 1-7/8 inch ball use # 19256 and for a 2 inch...
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  • What is Towing Capacity for 2017 Chrysler Pacifica
    For your 2017 Chrysler Pacifica we have the Draw Tite Hitch part # 76046 which has a pretty high towing capacity of 675 lbs of tongue weight and 4,500 lbs total trailer weight. One thing you have to consider is that a towing capacity for a vehicle is basically the lowest rated component in the setup. So this hitch has a high capacity but your vehicle may be rated much lower and that would be how much you could tow. You would need to check the owners manual of the vehicle to determine this. From...
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  • Trailer Wiring and Hitch Fits for All Models of 2017 Chrysler Pacifica
    For your 2017 Chrysler Pacifica we have two wiring harness configurations available. For the LX and Touring models we have the part # 118723 that you referenced. For the Limited models we have the part # 118712 as a confirmed fit. For a hitch the Draw Tite part # 76046 is a fit for all models. If you wanted to do some towing you might be interested in etrailer ball mount kit # 989900. It comes with 2 ball mounts; one with a 3/4 inch rise or 2 inch drop and one with a 2-3/4 inch...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch and Wiring Recommendation for 2020 Chrysler Pacifica
    The trailer hitch I recommend for your 2020 Chrysler Pacifica is the 2 inch Draw Tite part # 76046 as it has great towing capacities and is mostly hidden since only the hitch opening hangs below the rear bumper. This aspect also helps with ground clearance as well. I attached a picture of what the hitch looks like as well as an install video for more info as well. For trailer wiring the best option is the Tekonsha kit part # 118712 if you have the Touring L, Touring L Plus, Limited,...
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Info for this part was:

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Video Edited:
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Installed by:
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Updated by:
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