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Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Item # C55567
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Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring

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Curt Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring - C55567
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Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom harness. T-connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered converter reduces strain on wiring system and is made using SMT to ensure superior performance. Call 800-298-8924 to order Curt custom fit vehicle wiring part number C55567 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Curt products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring reviews from real customers.
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  • Reviews (63)
  • Q & A (16)
  • Videos (3)
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  • Why etrailer?

Curt Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring - C55567

  • Custom Fit
  • Trailer Hitch Wiring
  • Curt
  • 4 Flat
  • Powered Converter

Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom harness. T-connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered converter reduces strain on wiring system and is made using SMT to ensure superior performance.


Features:

  • Provides a 4-way flat trailer connector at the back of your vehicle to power your trailer's signal lights
    • Compatible with 5-pole, 6-pole and 7-pole adapters (sold separately)
  • Connects quickly and easily
    • Locate connection points in rear cargo area
    • Plug in T-connector
    • Run hot lead to car battery
  • Includes a tail light converter to ensure that your vehicle's wiring matches that of your trailer
    • Powered module connects directly to battery to avoid overloading vehicle's electrical system
  • Constructed using surface-mount technology (SMT) for consistent, reliable performance
    • Maximizes trailer light yield and intensity while producing minimal heat
    • Ensures superior operation in rough road conditions
  • Comes with dust cap for 4-way flat connector


Specs:

  • Maximum amperage:
    • Stop/turn lights: 3 amps per circuit
    • Tail lights: 6 amps per circuit
  • Limited 1-year warranty


Installation

This custom-fit T-connector plugs into your vehicle's wiring harness, which is located in your rear cargo area. You will have to remove interior trim paneling to access these connection points. Once you've plugged in the T-connector, run the hot lead up to your car battery. Connect the lead to the included fuse holder, and then connect the fuse holder to the positive terminal on your battery.


Once installation is complete, the 4-way connector will be stowed in an out-of-the-way location within your cargo area.


It is recommended that you use a small amount of grease on all electrical connections - the plugs on your automobile and the 4-pole connector itself - to help prevent corrosion.


Powered Tail Light Converter with Surface-Mount Technology

A tail light converter is built into this T-connector. This converter is a circuit-protected, battery-powered unit that bypasses the electrical routes that are used by a basic wiring harness. As a result, there is virtually no draw on your tail light circuits.


Because most trailers run on a two-wire system - wherein the brake and turn signals are carried on one wire - the separate brake and turn signals from your vehicle's three-wire system need to be combined so they are compatible with the wiring system of the trailer. This converter combines the brake and turn signal functions of your automobile so that they run on one wire to properly activate your trailer's tail lights. Note: This will not affect how the tail lights on your vehicle operate.


Curt builds each tail light converter using surface-mount technology (SMT). This method of construction involves soldering electronic components directly to the surface of a printed circuit board. SMT eliminates the need for leads, which are used in older through-hole technology. The result is a circuit board that is smaller yet provides more routing area and that offers superior performance, reliability and durability.


Curt SMT Circuit Boards

Circuit boards constructed using SMT have been shown to perform better under rough conditions with excessive vibration than those made using the through-hole method. And where would vibration be more likely to occur than in towing applications? Curt converters also produce less heat, leading to increased durability and longer life. In addition, lower levels of resistance ensure better performance, especially for parts that operate at higher frequencies.


Each Curt circuit board is made using high-quality components that are pieced together in the most technologically savvy fashion, leading to greater predictability and reliability in functioning.



55567 CURT T-Connector - Surface Mount Technology - 4 Wire

Replaces Curt C56204



C55567 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details C55567 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2012 - 2017 Toyota Camry

2012 - 2017 Toyota Camry

2016 - 2018 Toyota Corolla

2014 - 2018 Toyota Corolla

2007 - 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser

2007 - 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser

2007 - 2009 Toyota Camry excluding Hybrid

2014 - 2018 Mazda 3 Hatchback

2014 - 2018 Mazda 3 Hatchback - without LED Taillights

2007 - 2009 Toyota Camry non-Hybrid - excluding SE

2014 - 2018 Mazda 3 Sedan

2003 - 2003 Mazda 6 Sedan

2003 - 2003 Mazda 6 Sedan

2019 - 2019 Toyota Corolla Sedan

2019 - 2019 Toyota Corolla Sedan

2014 - 2018 Mazda 3 Sedan - without LED Taillights

2004 - 2008 Mazda 6 Sedan and 5 Door Hatchback

2004 - 2008 Mazda 6 Sedan and 5 Door Hatchback



California residents: click here


Video of Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser

Today on our 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser, were going to be installing the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with the 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. This is part number C55567. Here's the wiring harness that were going to be putting in the vehicle. The side with the double T-connectors, this is going to go over to the driver side. This is where were going to pick up our running lights, our break lights and our blinkers. Weve also got a white ground wire.

Were going to connect that with the provided self-tapping screw. Weve got our 12 volt power wire. Were going to run that right to the battery, connect it using the inline fuse holder and the provided fuse via the wire that theyve provided for us. The green wire, this heads over to the passenger side. That goes in beside the passenger side taillight. Then, this is what were ultimately after, our 4-pole wire.

It will have our breaks, our blinkers, our running lights to power our trailer, our cargo care, whatever were going to need. Now, all the hardware, some zip ties, the phone tape for securing the box and the connectors are all going to be included as well as the dust cap that well use to cover the end of the plug and keep it from any kind of corrosion or moisture buildup. Now, were going to remove the jack storage panel here and the extra goodies you might find in there, just set these aside. Were also going to take out the five phillip screws that go across our rear scuff panel here. We can use a screwdriver, we got a little trim panel removal tool were going to use here. This just go underneath that edge.

Were just going to pry up on that lightly and separate those clips. Once weve got it started, were just work it over with our fingers there. Then, well take out the phillip head screw here and also right here. Now, well take out the bolts that are holding our cargo clips. Then, we can move on to our subwoofer removal. For the subwoofer removal, were going to be taking this access panel off right there.

If you dont have a subwoofer, lucky you, you wont have to be doing the removal of this. You're just going to have those anchor points right behind it like we did on the driver side. Were going to take off this front grill, this cover that goes over the front of the subwoofer here. Looks like weve got bolts and stuff that go through it and holding in place. Those are just for aesthetics. What were going to do is just pull out on its top corner, across the top and then come around the outside here on the bottom. For the removal, were going to be taking out one, two, three and four 10-millimeter bolts. I'm going to put that back in for just a couple of turns there. Well let that hold it in place when we get all these other ones out. Before were fully removing our fourth bolt there, were going to go ahead separate our connector here. This uses a little pushpin right there. You push that down and just wiggle it on out. Well take our last bolt out. Our subwoofer should come freely. It looks like here, once we have it rotated out, there will be another connection that we want to separate that uses the same style push connector. Well remove the panel right here behind our tail light housing itself. Thats our access panel into our connection points there. Weve got one there in the driver side and also in the passenger. Were also carefully going to pry on our side panels here. Just a little pressure clips there. That should give us enough room to maneuver and get our wire up to the end and placed on the passenger side. The driver side, we might need a little more room. Very good. That should give us the room we need. Thats some good working area here and also here behind our connections. Lets grab our harness. Well route the red, white and brown, also the yellow and white up behind our panel. There are access hole there. Lets separate our connectors. Were going to separate the gray connector here. There's a little push tab on the top that well need to push down. Then, we can slide that rearward. Then, maybe if we get something in there to pull out where you press down that tab, you can see it come apart there. Itll a little two-pin connector. Thats going to slide in to our two-pin female side of our wiring harness. Before we stick it back in there, lets go ahead and get the other one taken care of here. This tab is a little bit harder to get to. Its going to be up here on the backside. Once we get our three pin separated, well slide that right into. You want to hear it click and then just give it a little push forward. As far as our grounding point, weve got a ring terminal already installed on our white wire. Well use the provided self-tapping screw. Were going to ride in to the body of the vehicle over here. Once we have our hole started there, as you can see right here, well then bring our white wire, the ring terminal, place our screw back through and then well secure it using that hole location. We just tighten that on down, get it nice and secure and that should give us a great ground that will last for a long time since its inside, not out in the elements. Now, were going to reconnect both the two and the three-way connectors. The two goes all the way in there to the gray side, tab look just like that. Once you get it clicked in there, just push and pull on it. Make sure its connected properly. Well tuck those in and then get our three connected. Great. Were all wrapped up here. Just put access panel back on. Well start working on wires we need towards the middle. Once we have our red, yellow, brown and white all connected, were really just left with the green. Thats going to go to the passenger side. The black, it goes to the battery. Our 4-pole wire, thats going to give us all of our lights. The 4-pole wire and the black wire can go right outside of the vehicle using this conveniently placed grommet right here. As you can see, if we pull that up, we can see right outside, right there. What were going to do, little notch in that, run our wires down through and then just take it back in. That should give us the room we need. Before we pass that black wire through, were going to take that, roll it, 12-volt wire thats been provided. Were going to unroll it a little bit of that off and pass it right up through that grommet so we can make our connection here topside. That passed through. Lets strip the end of it off. Well use one of our provided butt connectors to make that connection. Lets use a little bit of electrical tape. Well tape that up. It goes a little bit of a moisture barrier. Lets also route our 4-pole out of our hole. While its not necessary, something that I'm going to do just to prevent anything from going in, lets just take a little bit of sealant go around those wires where they poke out or around where we cut it. We can just be extra sure we wont be letting any moisture or anything. Its not the prettiest, the best should do more than enough to keep any water or dirt, things like that from getting inside the car. Well figure out a good mounting location for it. Looks like there's a nice flat spot right there. We want to make sure our wires go up over and clear the jack tools that go underneath. You know, looks like it will all clear there. Were going to clear off both our mounting location and also the back of our box here with a rubbing alcohol. Once it evaporates, well get the phone tape on. Peel that side and get it right up there where we want it and push down firmly to get it nice and secure. You see, its nice up there out of the way. Well still tidy up our black wire here a little bit, run that down. I'm going to keep the butt connector in this taped part inside the vehicle. That just feel warm and fuzzy about it being in here and not outside. Well line up the 4-pole wire with that slot in the grommet. Lets get this pushed right back down in the place. I'm going to use one of the provided zip ties and just go around our group of wires here. This is going to hold them up out of the way and keep it from interfering with our tools or anything. Were going to run around our green wire on across the rear scuff cover area here. Once I kept it down and run it right along with this black wire loom, if they're going to run a waterline across there, chances are its pretty safe area for our green wire to go through. Itll go right up behind the panel here where we can grab it out of our access hole. Lets keep fitting this down under here. We dont want to get it pinched or anything so get that down under, run it behind there. Itll be perfect. They're getting tucked there nice and neat. Were going to separate that same gray connector we did on the other side. Pull that out and slide it into our harness just like on the other side there. Once its in, lets check it. Feels great. Now, we put our cover back on this side and reassemble the rear of the vehicle. We got our side panels flop back into place here. If you feel them click and pop all over edges or lined up as you see there, it will be nice and neat. Well do that on passenger side and driver side. When those back in, lets take those two large phillip screws that we removed. Well put those back in, and then our scuff panel. We will re-place the five screws that came out of it. Well put that back in there where the customer had it. Lets get that awesome subwoofer put back in. Here on the backside, here and here, are two alignment pins that we want to slide in the holes there and there. To get this set into place, there we're bolts and stud. Lets tighten those down. We got our two connections back together here. Put our fascia cover back on. Then our lower panel. The last thing here in the backside, lets get our cargo hook put back in. Were all wrapped up here in the rear. Everything is put back together, stick a fork in there, she's done. Weve got our 4-pole wire thats hanging out of that grommet. Well pull that right over our hitch here. Well deal with that in a minute. What we need to do now is get our 12-volt power wire ran up there to the front of the car. For running our power wire towards the front, I'm going to use a piece of old airline tubing that weve got laying around. You could use just about anything you want just as long, you see how flexible that wire is, that airline tubing is just a little more stiff. As long its a little stiffer than that wire, well be able to poke it up there and use it and let it help us run our wires up here where we want them. As we run this forward, we want to avoid any moving parts, any major sources of heat or any sharp metal edges. Here, I'm going to use part of the filler neck to the gas right there between the filler neck and the vent tube. I'm running over the top of that. That will give us a good sturdy initial home point there. If we go right over the top of the spring, we can see the break lines running up there. Those break lines are pretty delicate, of course. Were going to try to run right along with those because it should be ran through a fairly safe spot. Just keep heading forward here. Come out in the front of the fuel tank area here now. Well go over that line and around it. I want to get out behind this heat shields. Weve got that exhaust tube that runs forward. There's a heat shield that comes all the way up here to the front side and protects those lines as they run forward. We want to stay with that so we dont have to worry about it. My fingers arent skinny enough to keep it running up above that so what I'm going to do is use a screwdriver. This help it poke up on my wire while I push it forward. Well see it come out right here. Then, were going to head right up again following our break lines right over here to the outside. Then, well run them right up there towards our master cylinder. Here, you can see, our pushed wire did its job. They got up here in the right area where we need to make our connections. Well run that right back here along with firewall. There's a few brackets I want to get below. Were going to turn this way in front of that fuse panel right over there to that positive terminal. I guess our pole wires done its job. Lets get it down here. For our front connection, we need our butt connector, our ring terminal, our 10 amp fuse and our inline fuse holder. What were going to do is at the end of our 12-volt wire, this is a little bit too much. You want to leave yourself some just in case there's been a mistake made and we have to redo something. We dont want a great deal because were also going to be adding on about eight or 10 inches of that. Cut off our excess there. Lets trim back our 12-volt wire, just strip the end of it. Butt connector there. This will be pre-stripped, take away the end of that. Then, ring terminal. Before I put the ring terminal on, I'm going to slide this right up underneath our cover here. It will give us a really cool way to hide that. Perfect. Were going to connect that right there, had that tucked down and out, just need to remove that nut. I also really like to tape up our connections especially thats going to be on the outside. This was going to be under this cover so it shouldnt too much of an issue with it but rather safe than sorry. It doesnt exactly waterproof anything but it does acts as a moisture barrier. Just like that now, make sure its nice and tight. Well pull down that little bit of extra. Were going to cover right back down on there. For our excess you see here, its going to make a couple of nice small coils here. Just like that. There's a tie right through there like around. Then, Ill just keep it all nice and compact but readily accessible if we needed to correct any mistakes. Trim off the excess. Slide in our fuse. That can just be slid down and either zip tie it off to something if you want or I prefer this to get it down there, hidden out of the way. Then, if we need it, we know where its at. Well just reach in there and pull it out. For our 4-pole wire, well bring it over here where I wanted. I'm going to use that long zip tie to go all the way around my hitch tube. Thats going to provide a good anchor point forward here on the backside of the hitch. Trim off the little excess there. Now, what well be able to do is just bring those right up and around. Were going to take our provided dust cover, bring that right around through the safety chain connection point. We will use that cap to hold it up into place and also to keep it protected from the elements. To test out our plug, well first put our ground clamp right on the ground side. Thatll make sure that our wire up there is connected. Then, were going to test the brown wire. We should have a constant signal from there. You see, our lights coming on steady. Thats perfect. Well, next test are left blinker. That should be the yellow wire giving us a flashing signal. Then, well do the right blinker. That should be the green wire, also getting us a flashing signal. Then, well test our brakes which will be a solid signal from both the green and the yellow. Green, yellow. Awesome. Weve got it done properly. Thats going to complete todays installation of the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with the 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector part number C55567 on our 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser. .


Customer Reviews

Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector - C55567

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (63 Customer Reviews)

Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom harness. T-connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered converter reduces strain on wiring system and is made using SMT to ensure superior performance.

- C55567
by:
2016 Toyota Corolla

Perfect service so I bought a hitch as well. I love your installation videos too for the wiring harness and Curt products are excellent quality. I will be back for more stuff. Why even think of going elsewhere now ?? 524763



- C55567
by:
2018 BMW M6

This wiring harness was a fairly easy install on a 2018 Mazda 3 HB Sport. Wiring to the lights is very simple with only removing 3 panels in the hatch and easily hidden. Running 12 volts to the unit is the hardest part. Although the instructions indicate it must be connected directly to the battery I did not like the idea of having a hot wire running on the outside of the car or making a hole through the firewall. For a Mazda 3 a simple way to provide power is running the positive wire to the fuse box in the driver's side foot well. There is a 10 amp fuse for the sun roof and I just used a low profile mini Add-A-Circuit product to provide power. My model does not have a sun roof so there is no overload issue but it is easy enough to not open/close the sun roof with trailer lights on. The added bonus here is that it is only powered when in ACC or ON so any trailer wiring issues will not drain your battery. This probably voids some warranty but since the circuit is fused at 10 amps it is identical to the instructions and just as safe. For ground I just used the already tapped M6 point that is there for factory hooks. Installed this way no permanent modifications have been made to the vehicle. 635980


Comments
The primary reason why the wiring harness is set up to pull the power for the trailer taillights directly from the vehicles battery is to protect the vehicle from short circuits that might occur in the wiring on the trailer. Connecting the harness according to the instructions serves to keep the trailer wiring fully isolated from the delicate and expensive to repair vehicle wiring. The fuse in the power wire itself is designed to protect the taillight converter from a short in the power wire, not to protect the vehicle from shorts.
-- Mike L - 05/01/2019

54743

- C55567
by:

Product came pkgd. well. I was a little surprised that the product was not self powered from the tail light piggy back wiring. I had to run a wire up through the car, through the firewall and connect to the battery. Wasn't a hard process though, toughest part was getting through the firewall...not an easy task on new cars. Once it was all hooked up everything worked just as it was supposed to. Everything was included in the packaging (wiring wise) to complete the hook-up. 88167



- C55567
by:
2007 Toyota Camry

Disappointed that I had to run separate wire from battery back to trunk. Must be something to do with Toyota because I have purchased two different ones from you for Honda and did not have to do this. Other than that, fine. 186890



- C55567
by:
2017 Toyota Corolla

Nice wiring kit. High quality, easy to install, does not modify existing car harnesses. Instructions are clear and easy to follow. 526508



- C55567
by:
2018 Mazda 3

The hitch and brake light harness installed without issue and works flawlessly. 604333



- C55567
by:

The rear tail and signal light wiring installed very easily along with the placement of the control module. Since this unit requires a voltage source, the only more time consuming portion was running a 12V line from the back trunk area to the battery in front. . 475128



- C55567
by:
2013 Toyota FJ Cruiser

Ordered this item with some doubt about whether it would be as advertised. It was better than I hoped. Installed without any problem just as instructions described. Installation was done in less than two hours. Very pleased with etrailer. 548880



- C55567
by:
2015 Toyota Camry

Toyota threw me a curve ball with 2 metal support brackets installed where the trailer hitch should go. Apparently they did this in 2015, as they do not show up in 2014 videos - anyway, I removed these and that allowed access to 6 pre-installed nuts that the supplied hardware screwed right into. I also ordered the wiring kit which plugged in with no issues. I've already made 2 trips with my small utility trailer, plus plan to haul bikes with it, also. The hitch looks great (but a little dirty due to lots of rain brought in by Hurricane Harvey). 428507



- C55567
by:
2012 Toyota Camry

Phone salesperson was great. I had figured out what I needed on the website but had a few questions. Very helpful with product and shipping options. I asked if I could get it before the end of week and she worked it out with very little extra cost. I got delivery as promised. Appreciated the follow up from shipping to confirm it had shipped and the follow up that I received. I've installed it on my 2012 Camry and works just like I hoped. Just snapped in the connectors and it was done. Now I'm legal when hauling my trailer. I did not want to run a power wire through my firewall so I also bought an auxiliary power plug that I wired to the trailer light converter. Whenever I need the trailer I just run the power to the power receptacle in my console through the drop down back seat. Thank you! 151912



- C55567
by:
2013 Toyota Camry

Nicely made kit. Installed without a problem. E-trailer's online installation video was especially helpful. Running the wire from the trunk to the battery in the engine bay was the most tedious part. This would have been a lot easier if I had access to a lift as opposed to just raising the side of the car up with floor jacks and stands and using a creeper while on my back. 569058



- C55567
by:

UPS lost my order. I talked with someone from E Trailer, they got to the bottom of the situation, got another shipped, got it this morning. Great Job!! 727693



- C55567
by:

Awesome product. I have had it for a year and I have been very happy and satisfied with its performance. I definitely recommend it. 715304



- C55567
by:

Easy to install, work perfect 715193



- C55567
by:

Very happy with purchase. Looks great and is functional. I am using it with a bicycle carrier and a small utility trailer. 696310



- C55567
by:

Works as advertised first try. 675003



- C55567
by:

Quality harness at a very reasonable price and fairly simple to install. I highly recommend etrailer.com. 665699



- C55567
by:

Easy to install with great instructions and video. Was daunting when I learned I needed to run the power wire to the front of the car but was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Works great and hides easily by the spare tire. Thanks! 665180



- C55567
by:
Mazda

Installing the Draw-tite hitch on my girlfriend's cute 2014 Mazda 3 was a breeze after studying the videos. No need to remove the muffler or raise up the car at all. After having the mounting bolts in place using the handy wires and resting the hitch on about 8" of wood blocks, my girlfriend helped in keeping the hitch steady while I bolted it onto the car. It took us about 25 minutes in all. Then came the wiring nightmare. The first part involving the connectors to the car's tail lights was fast and simple. The second part which involved sneaking the included power wire out of the trunk, through the car, then through the engine firewall and into the engine compartment was enough to drive a good man bad. Honestly, especially when meaning to only tow a small trailer with about four lights on it, is it really necessary to go directly to the battery as a power source??? And I wasn't about to run the power wire along the underside of the car. Anyway, after spending about an hour trying to figure out how I was going to sneak the supplied power wire through the engine compartment firewall, I got out my drill, picked a drill bit slightly wider that the wire, bore a hole on the driver's side and into the engine compartment, hooked the wire to the battery using the supplied wired fuse, sealed the drilled hole with the supplied black silicone sealant, put the car back together, and finally was done. As I wrote, installing the hitch took 25 minutes to complete. Installing the wiring was a four hour drama I'm so relieved to be done with I'm having a double shot of rum in my rum punch, and after that I'm having another one. I'm giving this four stars because after all that install time the trailer lights work just fine. I just wish the install hadn't wound up being such a nightmare. 661289



- C55567
by:

Easy to install and works well 635534



- C55567
by:

Works great, directions were easy to follow, I just wish my hands were smaller! Ha Ha. I’ve used it a dozen times and when not in use it stores easily in the side panel and you don’t have to worry about it dangling behind and getting torn off. Great product. Thanks! 606972



- C55567
by:
2010 Toyota FJ Cruiser

Nice not exactly what I expected. Didn’t realize you need to put the connector/wiring out the door when towing. Could be changed with little difficulty but not worth it. For my FJ I ran the wire to the battery under the car. Seems to work just fine. 599036



- C55567
by:

Christmas gift for my son (along with hitch) still hasn’t installed yet. 597231



- C55567
by:

Product works fine and instructions for installing fit very well and very precise. Would recommmend product and etrailer to anyone wanting to rig up for trailering. 580586



- C55567
by:
2017 Toyota Corolla

Fast shipment. Everything worked great. 574542


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Ask the Experts about this Curt Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring

  • Installation of Power Wire for Curt T-Connector Wiring Harness on 2014 Mazda 3
    The Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # C55567 uses an in line fuse that is 10 amp max. It is recommended to install power wire directly to battery, so any installation even though it may work as you referenced would void the manufacturer's warranty. I've attached the installation details to assist.
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Potential Overload on Curt Wiring Harness for Taillights Not Working
    If the draw of your taillights and side clearance lights combined exceeds the 6 amp maximum, it is quite possible the converter box did short circuit. Short circuiting at the box is the way the harness protects from overload. It is also important to note that the harness' 12V power wire must be connected directly to the vehicle's battery, through the supplied fuse holder, not to an auxiliary 12V power source elsewhere on the car. If you find that the taillights and clearance lights...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Wiring Harness Recommendation for a 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser
    For trailer wiring to go along with the Curt Hitch part # 13367 that you installed on your 2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser I would recommend the Curt Wiring harness part C55567. I attached installation instructions for this harness for you to check out as well. For how to pick out the correct ball mount check out the FAQ article I attached to right.
    view full answer...
  • Routing the Power Wire for Trailer Wiring on a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE
    In a situation where there is no obvious or easily accessible route through the firewall into the engine compartment on a vehicle, you will have to drill a hole. You have to be careful not to drill through anything that is on the other side of the firewall. After you drill and route the wire through, make sure to seal up the hole using silicone to keep out moisture and fumes. I have included a link to an FAQ article with tips on routing the power wire that you might find useful.
    view full answer...
  • Brake Controller Recommendation for a 2011 Toyota FJ Cruiser with 4-Way Installed
    The Curt Wiring harness part # C55567 that you have in your 2011 Toyota FJ Cruiser will provide the trailer lighting functions, but to activate the trailer's brakes you will need a brake controller and the part # ETBC7 that comes with everything needed to wire up and install a brake controller plus convert the 4-way to a 7-way. For a brake controller I would recommend the Prodigy P2 Brake Controller part # 90885. This is our best selling brake controller because of how well it works...
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  • Does Curt Trailer Wiring Harness part # C55567 Fit 2014 Mazda 3 Hatchback
    The trailer wiring harness part # C55567 fits a number of vehicles actually. One of them is the 2014 Mazda 3 like what you have so it will work well for you.
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  • Installing Curt Class I # C11377 on 2014 Mazda 3
    We have not yet had the opportunity to install a hitch on a 2013 or 2014 Mazda 3, so we don't have any video footage of a hitch install. If you click on the provided link, you can see a copy of the instructions that includes some full-color photos. I've looked over the install procedure, and it doesn't look too involved. I'll link you to some help articles that will assist with the installation, including how to use a fish wire, and how to lower the exhaust from the exhaust hangers. If...
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  • Trailer Hitch and Wiring Harness for Towing Small Utility Trailer With 2014 Toyota Corolla
    The Curt Class I hitch, part # C11265 does not require removal of the appearance panel on the bottom of the vehicle or trimming or other alteration of the bumper fascia. It will require that the tow hooks be removed. The recommended ball mount is # C45521 and the pin and clip is # F-4. Both the 1-7/8 inch trailer ball # 19256 and the 2 inch ball # 19258 are sold separately. Curt offers a plug and play trailer wiring harness that's compatible with your Corolla, part # C55567. You can...
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  • Both Turn Signals Blink & Running Lights Not Working w/Curt Wiring Harness on 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
    Let's first make sure everything is in the right spot and none of the pins are damaged on both your 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser and Curt wiring harness # C55567. Unplug the harness and check both its connectors and the vehicle connectors. Look for any broken or bent pins because these can cause a short. If all the pins look good then make sure the connectors with the yellow, red, and brown wires are plugged in behind the driver's side tail light and the green on the passenger's side. If any...
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  • Hitch Recommendation for a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE
    There are 2 hitches available for your 2007 Toyota Camry XLE with a V6 and dual exhaust, the Curt hitch part # C12343 and the Draw Tite hitch part # 36416. I would recommend the Draw-Tite part # 36416. For trailer wiring you would want the Curt wiring harness part # C55567 and then for a hitch ball I would recommend the 1-7/8 inch ball part # 19256 or 2 inch ball # 19258.
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  • Can Dirt Bike Carrier be Used on a 2014 Toyota Corolla LE
    Since dirt bike carriers are designed to carry heavier loads all of them have 2" shanks. All of the trailer hitches available for your 2014 Toyota Corolla have a 1-1/4" receiver and so the only way you'll be able to transport your '95 Honda CR125 with your Corolla is to use a small trailer. It is worth noting though that the online owner's manual for your vehicle states that Toyota doesn't recommend towing a trailer. If you don't have any other vehicles to accomplish this with and you...
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  • Trailer Hitch and Wiring Harness for a 2012 Toyota Camry Hybrid
    For a 2012 Toyota Camry Hybrid you can use Curt trailer hitch # C12107. I have included a link to the instructions for you. This hitch comes with the proper ball mount, pin and clip. For a 1-7/8 inch ball use # 19256 and for a 2 inch ball use # 19258. For trailer wiring use # C55567 that you have referenced. I have linked instructions for it as well.
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  • Parts Needed to Pull a Utility Trailer with a 2016 Toyota Corolla SE
    The least expensive trailer hitch receiver for your 2016 Toyota Corolla is the Curt part # C11265. It's a custom designed hitch that bolts right onto your car without any drilling. All of the installation hardware is included and I've linked an install video for you. The ball mount recommended for your Corolla with the Curt hitch is part # C45521 with pin and clip # F-4 to secure it to the hitch. It takes a hitch ball with a 3/4 inch diameter shaft like part # A-80 if you need a 1-7/8...
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  • Curt Wiring Harness for 2016 Toyota Camry Hybrid
    According to Curt the wiring harness # C55567 does fit your hybrid model of the 2016 Toyota Camry. I've linked a video of the install on a 2012 Camry which is a similar process. The install details are also linked. If you need a trailer hitch as well part # C12107 is the correct fit for your Camry and the recommended ball mount is part # C45017. The ball mount fits hitch balls with a 3/4 inch shank so part # A-82 is the correct 2 inch ball and part # is the correct 1-7/8 inch. ...
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  • Curt Wiring Harness Recommendation for a 2013 Toyota Camry Hybird
    I just spoke with the technical department of Curt and they recommend the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness # C55567 for your 2013 Toyota Camry. The Curt Upgraded Circuit Protected Tail Light w Converter Hardwire Kit # C56496 is a universal style trailer wiring harness that you could probably make work, but you would be much better off going with the # C55567 as it is more of a plug and play harness. I attached installation instructions for this product for you to check out...
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  • Hitch Recommendation for a 2015 Toyota Camry
    A hitch that came off of a 1999 Toyota Camry would not also fit a 2015 Toyota Camry. The vehicles are different enough that a new hitch design would be required. The hitch you will want is the Curt Hitch part # C12107. The correct trailer wiring would be part # C55567. If you also need a ball mount you would want the # C45017 and then for hitch balls # 19256 and # 19258.
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Jeff D
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Video Edited:
Dustin K
Video by:
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Video by:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Randy B
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
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Updated by:
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