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Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit

Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit

Item # T4835700
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T4835700 - Disc Brakes Titan Electric-Hydraulic Brake Actuator
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The same quick-response braking that you get with the original BrakeRite actuator is now faster and easier to install. System combines the consistency of electric brake controllers with the power and effectiveness of hydraulic disc brakes. Call 800-298-8924 to order Titan brake actuator part number T4835700 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Titan products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit. Brake Actuator reviews from real customers.
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Titan Brake Actuator - T4835700

  • Electric-Hydraulic Brake Actuator
  • Disc Brakes
  • Titan

The same quick-response braking that you get with the original BrakeRite actuator is now faster and easier to install. System combines the consistency of electric brake controllers with the power and effectiveness of hydraulic disc brakes.


Features:

  • Electric-over-hydraulic brake actuator mounts on trailer and plugs into the 7-way trailer connector
    • Electric current runs to control module when tow-vehicle brakes are applied
    • Signal triggers pump and motor on actuator, activating trailer brakes
  • Control module is compatible with most in-cab brake controllers
    • Brake controller (sold separately) is required to send signal from tow vehicle to trailer when brakes are applied
  • Pump-and-motor-based system increases response time compared with traditional hydraulic actuators
    • Trailer brakes are triggered when you apply brakes in tow vehicle, as opposed to when trailer pushes against hitch ball
  • Electronic, proportional pressure valve ensures that braking is smooth and effective
    • Controls braking pressure during long-term braking
  • Fluid reservoir is isolated and has diaphragm-type filler cap to prevent spills and leakage
  • Control board is fully enclosed in trailer-mounted module
  • Integrated, weather-sealed connectors make installation a snap
  • Quick, easy connecting every time with plug-in harness
  • Potted hybrid circuitry provides dependable service even under adverse conditions
  • BrakeRite II, control module, wiring harness, breakaway switch and breakaway battery harness included (battery sold separately)


Specs:

  • Application: disc brakes
    • Compatible with drum brakes when used with optional reducer (T4844100)
  • Vehicle requires an in-cab electric brake controller and 7-way (blade style) trailer connector mounted near bumper (sold separately)
  • Ford and GM trucks with factory brake controller require adapter (T4845900)
  • 1-Year warranty


With a faster response time and more proportional braking than traditional, surge-type actuators, the BrakeRite is perfect for nearly any towing application from light to heavy duty. The system works with most in-cab brake controllers to sense when and how you apply the brakes in the tow vehicle. An electrical signal is then sent to the control module to trigger the actuator's pump and motor. Brake fluid is released and sent to the trailer brakes to activate them. The result is real-time braking that, thanks to the electronic proportional valve system, is also smooth and controlled.

BrakeRite SD Control Module

The Severe-Duty (SD) kit has nearly everything you need, from the BrakeRite II actuator itself to a self-contained, remote-mounted control module. Even an electronic breakaway switch, complete with battery harness, is included. And the user-friendly design simplifies installation even further by including wiring harnesses and weather-sealed connectors for simple plug-and-play setup.





4835700 Titan BrakeRite II Severe Duty Electric-Over-Hydraulic Actuator





Video of Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Titan BrakeRite II SD Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Installation - 2015 Flagstaff Classic

Today we're going to be showing you how to install the Titan Disc Brake Kit and BrakeRite II SD Electric-Over-Hydraulic Actuator. This is going to work for tandem axles with 3,500 lb capacity. Part number is T4843700. This Titan kit's going to allow you to easily change over to disc brakes from your standard drum brakes. This is going to give us a very noticeable increase in our braking performance. You can see both the hub and rotor here have a dichromate plated finish for superior corrosion resistance. The advantage to disc brakes is that we're going to have a faster response time to begin slowing down our trailer, and it's going to be a much more smooth and even braking process. To begin our installation, we're going to get our breakaway switch mounted up here to our pin.

You can see it's just going to use a metal tab there. There's a hole in it, and the self-tapping screw we're going to put it right up into the bottom here. You can see that pin will put out there, just in case we have an accidental disconnection, and operate our brakes for us. Now, this plug is going to have to eventually wind up being plugged into our control module. We're going to be mounting that well back in the trailer, so we're going to extend this.

I'm going to show you how to do that in a few minutes. Let's get the plug that was provided mounted up underneath our trailer pin also. Now, to mount the plugin wiring harness up here in the front, we're going to be using part number 18138, and what we've done typically, right there on that line this is bent over at 90 degrees. We've just straightened that out. That'll allow us to connect it to that good sturdy steel that we've got up here just like that. Again, we're going to use self-tapping screws for this job.

Mark where we want them to go and then get them in place. Now we can bring our new 7 volt provided with our kit and get it in position here, and we'll use the provided hardware to attach it to our bracket. Now we can use a flat blade or Phillips screwdriver and just get those secured down. Like that. You can see that's going to allow us to still have a plug here, and what we're going to do is just store the original fifth wheel wiring plug up above the pin box here. There's usually an opening.

You should be able to get it all up in there, then we can just zip tie off whatever we have extra. This is going to be plugged right in just like that. Now, this is going to give us our new plug that will plug into our truck like we normally would. They're the same length as what the one that was on here was, but it's spliced in here for the plug that we'll need for our ground, our 12 volt power, and also our brake signal coming from our vehicle. This is also going to run to the control module, so we're going to run both our breakaway plug and our power, ground, and brake signal plug back to that control module, but we're going to have to extend them. You can see they're not all that long, so we'll be splicing in extra wire to get where we need to go. Now we're going to use a loom clamp here. Another self-tapping screw. We're going to get that secured off to the underside of our trailer there. Now, for our breakaway switch we're going to bring this back. Now, if you do have a rotating pin box, like in this case it's designed to rotate instead of having to have a slider, you want to accommodate and make sure you have enough slack there for that. I'm just going to zip tie it right off to the bottom of the bracket there. Now inside of the wire loom here we have our two breakaway wires. Let's get those pulled out of there. Give ourselves enough pigtail here but we also want it to be long enough so where we can join it together with the three wires in there, so we can trim it off about right there. We'll be taking that inside with us. Now we're going to strip back each of the wires from the breakaway kit here. We're going to add on part number DW05744 onto the end of each one of those. It's going to be a heat shrink butt connector. Standard butt connector will work but these are going to give you superior moisture resistance. We'll use one more of those on the blue wire once we get it stripped back. Now for our white wire and our black wire, we need to go up a size with the butt connector, so instead of it ending in 44, it's going to end in 45. Now, we've made a wiring harness here. This is going to get all of our connections back to the back where we need them. Every application is going to be a little bit different. You'll just have to make sure that you make the connections the same way that we make them. We're using the white wire out of our extra harness that we've built here to connect to the white wire. It's going to create our ground back in the back. Our blue wire's going to be the blue wire. The only real change is going to be that our black wire, our power wire, we're using a yellow wire for that because that's what we had. Then the two black wires that come from our breakaway switch, we're just switching those over to green. Good news there is there's not a polarity issue so you don't have to be sure that you have the negative here, positive there. Now we'll use our heat gun and get these all shrank down. You could also use a lighter or a mini torch if you don't have a heat gun handy. Just want to be careful not to burn the connector. You just want to melt it. All right, now I'm going to use some electrical tape and get those connections taped up really well. This is going to be on the outside, of course, on the camper here, so we're going to try to make it as clean looking as possible. All right, now this is going to run pretty much straight back, and we're going to be going through the front of the camper right here, so it's time to get our hole drilled out for that. Now, I've drilled a small pilot hole out from the inside just so we can ensure that it goes where we want it to. I'm going to use a 3/4" hole saw to drill this hole out, and we've got a grommet that's going to fit in there. The grommet that we're using, in case you do need some, this is part number A11GB. We'll place that right in there like that. Now we're going to pass our wiring in and through there, and we'll pull the majority of it through, but we're also going to be using wire loom. It's going to be our 1/2" diameter wire loom. That'll give us a cleaner look up front here. I'm just going to slide that wire loom up and around. You can see that'll be cleaner looking than just the wires. I'm going to use enough of this to go through my grommet, inside, and down to our other hole location. Just tape the end of that wire loom off there. Once we've got enough on there, we're going to tape that up. You want to compress it to get it started through the grommet. The hole in the grommet is large enough to accept it. You want it to be a nice, tight fit, and it can give you a little bit of trouble. Now we're going to use a couple of loom clamps here, and that'll just help keep it up and out of the way. We're going to use a few more loom clamps inside here. We're just going to run down with that major brace, come across, and down to the hole that we're going to use to get on back in the RV. We're going to come on down, and in our case we've got a small pilot hole that we've drilled here. We drilled that from the underside of the camper out. We want to go above that plastic liner that you typically see underneath your fifth wheels and things like that, just to keep our wires up and from sagging down underneath. We've drilled that hole in an area to where we know that's where it's going to go. Now again with the 3/4" hole saw, we get it drilled out. Now we'll just pass our wiring through there, and you see I've got my grommet right up here. We'll place that in. At the end we'll be able to push that in. Now we're ready to get our actuator mounted up. You've got a couple options with this. You can see the option we chose is using three 5/16" by 18 thread pitch bolts. These need to be 3/4" or shorter. We've only got 5/8" to work. We've just used a 90 degree plate. Drilled our holes in there with our template. This could just as easy be the frame of your trailer or wherever you decide to mount your actuator. Flat washer and lock washer behind it just to keep it nice and solid. As a second option, you can see what we've done here. Two 1/4" by 20 bolts. You have two here and then there are two further back here that you could use to mount it if you want to mount it down, if you want to use the bottom to mount it. The reason we've put these bolts in here is because of the way our plate sits. We've got a little bit of a gap, so we want to give it support. We're going to be mounting this right in this cubby here the customer requested. That's where he wants it, so that's where it goes. See that little bit of a tip that it's got to it We don't want that going down the road. We don't want it pulling against our fasteners, so we got a plate here. I'm just going to use some urethane or some silicone and apply that right to the floor under where those bolts would be. That'll give us good spacing and we won't have to worry about any gaps. Then I'm just going to use a couple of self-tapping screws and secure that right to the floor. That's nice and solid. We won't have to worry about it going anywhere. While we're in here, we're also going to mount our two battery boxes. We're going to be setting these right down on the floor. Of course you want to make sure there's nothing underneath it there that you might cause damage to. We're going to mount them side by side like that. You want to be sure that your pigtail, and you can see they've got it so we can plug them in and they'll run parallel, is long enough for wherever you're going to be mounting your control module. In our case, that's going to be going right up against the wall here. All right. Good to go there. Now let's get that control module in place. Our control module is going to be mounted right there. All right, now that we've got our components mounted inside of the fifth wheel where we want them, we need to get our wires there. What I'm just going to use is just a long stick here. That's going to help us to push our wiring over that underbody panel so we don't have to completely remove it. Just get it down there far enough to where we can get a hold of it from underneath, then we'll be running it up into the camper. Now we're going to be using a pull wire. This is an air line tubing. You could also use a coat hanger, a stiff piece of wire, and wherever your access point is or wherever you're bringing your wires up through, we're going to push this down through. We'll tape our wires off to it, and then be able to bring them up to us. All right, now let's go down there and make that connection. Now we're just going to tape our wire bundle up to the end of the pull wire, and pull it up into position so we can make our connections. As we pull it'll have the tendency to drag across this metal edge, so if yours is anything like this, just put your wiring up inside of there so you won't have to worry about cutting it or anything like that. Each application of course is going to be a little bit different since every one of these campers is different. All right, we got our wiring up in here. We're going to leave a little bit extra of course. We don't need to cut it off too short so we can't make any changes down the road. Now we're going to bring the plugs that we cut off earlier in the installation in. We're going to get these attached to our wires that we ran into the inside here. The black wire, remember we're using the yellow wire for that, but the other colors are going to match up. Blue to blue and white to white on our three prong plug. Now we're ready to get our heat shrinks shrank down on our three prong plug and we'll move on to the two prong plug for the breakaway in just a moment. Let's get the plug on our breakaway taken care of. All right, now let's get this wiring cleaned up. I'm just going to use some electrical tape and also some wire loom. Now we'll make a few of the connections in here. The only one we're really not going to attach is going to be the one coming from the batteries, but the one that comes from the actuator is going to go into the second spot on our control module. Plug that in until you hear that click. Now, the wire that comes from our breakaway switch, it's going to go in the second from what would be the right, so if we're looking to the right, you have a three prong plug. Come to the two prong plug. That gets plugged in there. The one that comes from the trailer plug up front, that's going to go to the very right. Now, since we are using a Ford truck, we need to use the adapter, the Ford and Chevy adapter. Now that we also want to get mounted. I'm just going to use a self-tapping screw for it. Let's get our batteries put in position. We're going to get the wiring hooked up just so we can make everything nice and tidy, however we're not going to be plugging this in until the very end. Once we have everything else done, we'll plug it in and test it out. That's going to go down in our battery box. The red end should go to the positive side of the battery. It's going to have the black wire, and then the white wire's going to go to the negative or the ground side. There's a little gap there. Wires come out. It'll be nice and neat. Then that'll be easy to plug in once we're ready, right there in that first position. I'm just going to use a couple zip ties here, get everything cleaned up. We've got all of our electrical stuff taken care of. Now we're going to move on to getting the old drum style electric brakes removed and getting our new disc style installed. We need to remove the tire. You can just pull that off and set it aside. Now it's time to remove this cap that's on the end. Typically, you can see if you just tap that with a hammer as you rotate it, it'll start to come off. Just like that. We'll want to clean up that grease so we can see our retainer and our nut. In this application, there's a little retainer that has slid over the nut so it helps to keep it from backing off. Sometimes you might have a cotter pin. I'm just going to work that around the edge and it should come off for us. If you get some more of this grease out of the way you'll see the nut that's in here behind that. Let's get that removed. Typically for that we're just going to use a pair of channel locks. One thing to keep in mind, the retainer and the nut we want to hang on to. We're going to be reusing those. That's what we'll use to hold our new disc brake caliper in place. Set that aside. Then one more piece we want to hang on to. Behind that nut is going to be a washer or a thrust bearing there. Just like that. You'll see it's got a flat spot on it that matches with the flat spot on our spindle. Now we'll pull the drum assembly straight off. Right in here there's a bearing. Now, typically when you pull it off it'll just stay in there. Sometimes it'll pop out, so don't get it on your clothes. These we're not going to need anymore. You can set those aside, send them to the scrapper. Coming out of the back of the brake assemblies we're going to have wires. That was what we had previously for the electric braking system. We just want to trim these off. We're not going to be reusing them. Then we'll remove the four nuts that are on the backside that hold this brake assembly to the axle. Once the four of those are removed pull straight out on it. You'll see that's going to be the end of our axle, and our spindle. We want to take a good look over the spindle, and just ensure that there's no marring or any kind of damage on it there. As you can see, that one appears to be in great shape. Now we just need to repeat that exact same process for the other three locations. Inside of the camper here, right on the bottom of the actuator you can see we've got a fitting that comes out. The threaded portion closer to the actuator is the standard 1/8" by 27 NPTF fitting. There's a small #3 adapter that's on there. That's going to allow us to thread in another one of the 1/8" by 27 male fittings. There's a little plug in it. We're going to use our wrench here. This is a 3/8". I'm going to take the plug out, then we can simply use our flexible hose and we're going to go right into the front of that. The reason we're using a flexible hose is just because of the way we need to get out of the floor here. You can use the brake line kit however you see fit to make your necessary connections. I'm going to get that threaded in, and then just tighten it to secure it. The next thing we're going to do, you can see here's the end of our hose. It's just been routed down here to where we need our brake line. We're going to get one of our Ts mounted, and there's a little tab that sticks off of it so if that's not going to be positioned on an angle to help keep it straight, you'll need to drill a small 1/8" hole and place that up and in. That's going to keep this from rotating. We're going to get ours installed right here. I'm just going to use a #12 self-tapping screw. I'm going to mark our hole location. Then we'll bring our flexible brake line on and get that threaded in. With these flared style fittings, you just want to be sure you have them snug down so you don't have any leaks, and of course when we get done we'll check all of our fittings for leaks to make sure we don't have any issues. You can see we've got our little straight piece there. It's got a male fitting on each side. We're going to thread that right into this side of the T. The other one's going to be threaded in right there, positioned like that. Then again we'll secure that with one of our self-tapping screws. All right, now off the side of our T here, you can see we've got our brake line kind of preformed. It's a really good idea while you're working with these to use a tubing bender. What this allows us to do is make bends in our lines, you can see, without kinking it. That can restrict the flow of fluid, either drastically reduce the braking power that's sent to the caliper or even stop it completely. The one coming off the front here, that's going to go right over to our front driver side caliper. This one's going to provide the fluid back to the rear. In our kit, we're going to have these white clips. We're going to use these to secure off our brake lines, and again, we're going to use self-tapping screws here, just like that. Keep everything nice and secure. We don't want them to vibrate and move around too much. When routing your lines, we just need to ensure that these, these are going to be the flexible lines that'll go out to each caliper, we just want to ensure that we've gotten enough room to get those attached. There's going to be a little bit of travel, because we want it to be able to move up and down freely, so that looks like the fine attachment point right there. I'm going to mark it off. You'll see that hard line. It's going to be a little bit too far there, so what we can do is just put a little bit of a bend in it back here to make up for that. That should be about perfect. You can see we just put just a little bit of a bend in there to take that distance out, and that should be able to connect nice and easily. I'm just going to secure that here with one of our keepers. This one, we want this to wind up in about the same position as we had on the other side, so again, we have to put a little bit of a bend in it. Now let's bring a longer length of tubing. We're going to bring this back and over this direction so we can secure it off as it runs rearward. We're going to be mounting our T right underneath here, just where we did before, but you'll see we got a little bit too much length, so what we're going to do is just get rid of that length by putting in just a couple of bends here. In most of your standard applications, when mounting your caliper brackets which are here, they're just going to bolt right up to the existing brake brackets. Remember when we took off those hubs, those bolts will just slide through. You'll need a brake hardware kit sold on our website, and basically it just bolts to that flange. This is a very weird axle. It's got this and that that kind of change all of that up, so what we've done is we've had ours welded on, but in typical applications, the four holes here are going to line up with the four holes in that brake flange. That's going to give us the two holes that we're going to require to mount our caliper to. Before you mount that caliper, you need to get your disc on, so we'll start by packing those bearings and getting the seal put in. For packing our bearings we're just going to use a high temp grease designed for wheel bearings, and I like to just put it on my hand, and you basically want to squeeze it in between the inner and outer portion of the bearing there. Once we have it worked in there far enough, we'll actually see it. See that starting to come out of the top there You just want to do that all the way around. You could also use a bearing packer. These are easy lube spindles. Some people will just put the bearings on there and then lube them up afterwards. I just think this is going to give you a lot more confidence. You'll be 100% sure that you're bearings are completely packed and you won't have to worry about any premature wear on them once you start your travels. You can see that starting to come all the way around, and just keep working around the outside. We're going to do this for the inner, which is the larger bearing, and also for the outer, which is going to be the smaller. The bearings and seals are provided, so you won't have to worry about picking those up or using your old ones. Once our bearing's fully packed with grease, we're going to drop it right in the backside of the disc there. Then we can grab our new seal. To drive our seal in place, we're going to use a seal driver that we carry here at etrailer. This is part number PTW83020. You could also use a 4x4 or a piece of wood at home if you don't want to pick up a seal driver. The big key is just to get it started squarely so we don't bend the flange on one side or the other. I'm going to get that slid on our spindle there, and it's going to be a little loose for now until we get our outer bearing in, which we need to get packed right now. Once we've got that outer packed up, it's going to slide in with the tapered side facing inward. We'll slide that washer back onto that thrust bearing that we took off earlier, and replace our nut. Now we're going to set the end play or essentially the in and out movement. Let's see here. I'm going to loosen that up. You see that kind of movement in and out We want to get rid of all of that, but we don't want to tighten it up so much that we can't spin the disc, so if we we're to overtighten it just slightly, it's pretty tough to turn there. Get it down. We want to make sure everything's compressed nicely, then we just back it off a little bit until we get good free spin on there. Yeah. That's going to be really good. Not too much drag, but also zero end play, zero in and out movement. I'm just going to take the keeper that clips right on there like that, and that's really all there is for mounting our disc on. Now, for the calipers. We're going to be using the two threaded holes here and here to mount our caliper to the bracket. Now, on one side, you're going to have the block on the bottom. On one side, it's going to be on the top. We want to reverse these. Very simple design. We'll just unthread the bleeder screw, place it in the top, and then the block where our brake line's actually going to attach, that's going to go down to the bottom, but for now let's get it installed. We'll use the provided hardware, which are going to be bolts and lock washers. Just slide that into position and place in our bolt there and get it started. Once we have both of them started we can get them secure. I'm going to flip our bleeder screw and our brake line mount around so we get it going the right direction. I want to make sure that there's a copper washer on the top and bottom side of that block there. We've already done that in our other three locations, but you'll need to complete that process for your other three locations, and then we'll work on getting our flexible hoses from our hard brake line down to our caliper. All right, now while we still have these caps off, we can see in here well. Let's go ahead and get these filled up with the grease. Basically, as we put it in there, it's going to fill from the back to the front, so you just want to see it start to come out around that outer bearing that we installed. There you can see it starting to come out. Just do that for our four corners. Now we're going to tighten down the block there. We're going to get our flexible hose threaded in. We're going to leave those just loose enough to give us a little bit of movement, then we can route that right up to our hard line there. We just want to ensure as we mount these that we're going to have clearance between any sharp edges or anything. That'll be good right there. I'm going to mark our location because we're going to need to drill a hole. That's for our bracket to sit down into. Check our positioning on that again, and then I'm going to use a #12 self-tapper and secure the bracket in place. I'm going to slide that up in position, and you can see our keepers, they're going to slide up right behind that bracket. That way we won't have to worry about that moving around. Take the cap off of our hard line there and we can thread that right in. Then to hold that in place and keep it from rotating, we'll use a 5/8" wrench. All right. Now let's go around and do that for the other three locations. We'll just tighten down the fitting here where the flexible line goes into our block, and make sure we've got those washers crushed just a little bit to give us a good seal. Now we can head around to the other three locations and we'll do the same thing. All right, now we're going to get ready to bleed out the system. We need to get all the air that's in those lines out so we have good braking force. I'm going to remove the cap. We'll need to fill this up so it's at most 3/8" from the bottom of the lip. Now I'll place our cap back on there. Now, as we're bleeding the system, the level of fluid is going to go down as it enters the lines, so you want to monitor this to make sure, as we said, it stays within about 3/8" at the bottom of those threads. To bleed the system, we're going to be using the breakaway switch, so we need to plug in our breakaway batteries of course so it's going to get the power it needs to operate the system. To bleed out the system, we need to take the cap off of the bleeder screw. You want to hang on to that because we are going to be putting that back on. That's going to keep any of the dirt and grime and stuff like that out of there. We're going to use a piece of clear tubing. I'm going to have to hang on to it to keep it on there, but this will allow us to monitor the fluid coming out. As the fluid's coming out, we want it to be clear and we want to make sure that we get all of the air bubbles out of it. We just open our bleeder screw like that, and close it like that. Starting with the furthest caliper away from the operating unit, I'm going to crack our bleeder screw and I want to make sure that we got clear fluid coming out of there with no air bubbles. You can see we got no bubbles in there, so that one should be good. Do the same thing here, and if you watch, as soon as I crack that open you're going to see the air bubbles that we're talking about. See those air bubbles come out Then you've got a nice steady stream of clear brake fluid, so we'll tap that one back off. Now we'll go to the one that's just a little bit closer than what these are. Now we'll move on to our last one here. It looks like we're good. We're going to need to get our dust caps knocked on here. Now, we're using ones that we have here in the shop. The customer has a easy lube style of spindle and he wants to stay with that, so the other caps that come with the kit will go on in the same way. With those caps back on, we're ready to throw these tires back on both sides and we're ready to start enjoying this trailer again. With everything working as it should and no leaks detected, that's going to complete our installation of the Titan Disc Brake Kit and the BrakeRite II Severe Duty Electric-Over-Hydraulic Actuator for tandem axle trailers with 3,500 lb axles. Part number is T4843700.


Customer Reviews

Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit - T4835700

Average Customer Rating:  4.4 out of 5 stars   (5 Customer Reviews)

The same quick-response braking that you get with the original BrakeRite actuator is now faster and easier to install. System combines the consistency of electric brake controllers with the power and effectiveness of hydraulic disc brakes.

- T4835700
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Will work great on our truck. 439412



- T4835700
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works as designed the plug had to be devided as not adaptable for fifth wheel woud recomend other unit which has every thing build inside as to only have to run 4 wires 334461


Comments
I had to upgrade my fifth wheel to a motorhome do to my wifes disability how ever every thing worked out just fine fo the short time I used it.
Roy - 01/22/2018

33473

- T4835700
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Really happy with how this system works 311409



- T4835700
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This is so easy to install you can not mess it up even if you tried. The plugs will only plug into the plug it goes to. The only issue I had was the manual I got said that the batteries that you order for the breakaway switch should ground to the trailer. I contacted Titan and they said that I got a old manual and they no longer recommend trailer grounding and emailed me a current manual. I think for the price they should send out updated manuals. The hardest part of the install is routing the wires to make it look like a clean install because it is so much wiring. It stops my 5,000lb boat like it is nothing. 170267


Comments
I would like to add a update about this system. My boat trailer wound up submerged in 6 feet of saltwater for 3 hours and I just knew it was toast. I got the the trailer home and washed it down with fresh water and the only thing I have had to replaced is the connector the comes from the batteries to the control unit. I have put 700 miles on the trailer without issue. The brake fluid had no saltwater in it and stayed sealed. This is one TOUGH unit
-- comment by: Scott - 09/18/2015

15087

- T4835700
by:

Installation instructions are weak. Evidently I am going to have to have a mounting plate manufactured to mount the unit. I can not mount the unit till I get the weight distribution hitch so that I can be sure that one doesn't interfere with the other. There is little to no information on the internet to help with the installation. No visible information on the manufacturer's web site. 139379


Comments
My experiences are similar. Beautiful wiring connections but very difficult to installI advise against this kit for following reasons:1. The kit includes a several foot long pigtail to install between truck 7 prong connector and pigtail connected on RV. A very short three wire connector comes off of the pigtail. It is too short to connect to the controller so I will cut it off Nd splice it into longer wires. Will discard the new pigtail which would just get in the way.2. In spite of being called severe duty I was shocked to see that the controller box is not sealed against the weather. I will seal it before installing.3. Of necessity, the entire installation will be several feet from the kingpin and underneath the RV. This will require the splice I mentioned before and direct connection to wires from the RV pigtail. I cant imagine how the Titan folks thought this could be installed on an RV with kingpin with the wiring they provide.4. The breakaway switch wiring will also have to be extended.The plug and play design does not deliver on its promise. I recommend you save yourself some money and buy the Brakerite EHB that has just five wires coming out of it to manage.
-- comment by: Hadlock - 09/19/2014

6918

Thanks for your feedback, but this system is traditionally used on traditional hitch/bumper pull style of electric over hydraulic trailers. This is why the wiring lengths are not ideal for your application.

-- Rachael H - 9/24/2014

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Ask the Experts about this Titan Brake Actuator

  • Troubleshooting Weak Brakes with Ford Factory Brake Controller and Electric Over Hydraulic Brakes
    The issue you are describing may be related to the factory brake controller in your 2012 Ford F-350 and its compatibility with the electric over hydraulic actuator you have on the trailer. For example, the Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Actuator # T4835700 will require a separate adapter # T4845900 for it to work well with 2006.5-2012 Ford trucks. The adapter will allow for proper communication with the factory brake controller and regulate the amperate to an appropriate level. If you...
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  • Does Wiring Need to be Added to Install Titan Brakerite II SD on Trailer
    The Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit # T4835700 that you referenced does have some features to it that help make it install easier, but in reality when you are adding EOH brakes to a trailer there is quite a bit of involvement to install everything that's unavoidable. It's not unusual to have to add length to the wiring like in our install video that I attached to this page as well. I also attached a wiring diagram for the kit for you to check out as well.
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  • Availability of Replacement Control Module for Titan Brake Rite SD
    We do have a replacement controller box for a Brake Rite SD. It is Replacement Remote Mounted SD Control Module for BrakeRite II, part # T4834200. I have included a picture of the control module for your reference and a link to helpful article on brake controllers.
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  • Can Electric Over Hydraulic Brake Actuator Be Fully Submerged
    I spoke with my contact at Titan about the BrakeRite II # T4835700. He confirmed that they do not recommend completely submerging the BrakeRite. I also spoke with Dexter Axle to see if their Electric Over Hydraulic Brake Actuators, # K71-651, can be submerged. They confirmed that their actuators are not designed to be fully submerged. Though also not recommended to be submerged, the most likely contender to hold up to being fully submerged is the Hydrastar Marine Grade Electric...
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  • Converting Military Trailer W/ Air Assist Hydraulic Drum Brakes to an Electric Over Hydraulic System
    From a price, performance and reliability standpoint, I would recommend the Carlisle HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator for drum brakes, part # HBA-10. You would also need a breakaway kit like the # 50-85-313 offered by Tekonsha as well as an in-cab brake controller that is electric over hydraulic compatible, like the Tekonsha Prodigy P2, part # 90885 or the P3, part # 90195. Both controllers are electric over hydraulic compatible, but the P3 is a bit more user-friendly for those...
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  • How To Use Factory Brake Controller On 2011 Chevy Truck With Electric/Hydraulic Trailer Brakes
    If you have the Titan BrakeRite Actuator on your 2011 Chevy, then you will be able to use the Titan BrakeRite Adapter for your Chevy integral brake controller. You will need to get the correct adapter to fit the BrakeRite actuator that is on your vehicle. The Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Actuator # T4835700 will require the Titan BrakeRite SD Adapter # T4845900 and the Titan BrakeRite EHB Actuator # T4813100 will use the Titan BrakeRite EHB Adapter # T4846000. If you do not have...
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  • Can Synthetic Brake Fluid be Used in a Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator
    Yes, DOT 3 synthetic brake fluid would work just fine in the Titan Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator part # T4835700 that you referenced.
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  • 2011 GMC Sierra Factory Brake Controller Not Working with BrakeRite SD Even with Adapter
    You may need to adjust the output setting on the factory brake controller on your 2011 GMC Sierra HD. I also assume that the adapter you are using is # T4845900 which is the correct model to plug in with the BrakeRite SD system # T4835700. The blue wire from the back of the controller and the blue wires with the SD system should have continuity, yes, so when your brake controller is putting out power on that blue wire there should be power on the SDs blue wires as well. It is possible...
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  • Parts Needed to Install Disc Brake Kit on a 2014 Sabre 39 ft Trailer
    As far as a disc brake electric over hydraulic actuator made by Titan the BrakeRite part # T4835700 is the only solution that Titan offers. This would work well for you. The disc brake kit part # K2HR712 that you referenced would work well with the bearings # 25580 and # 14125A that would be required to install. Since you have an integrated controller you would need the adapter part # T4845900 as well. You have everything then with the part # T4830000 for a brake line kit and part...
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  • BrakeRite II SD Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit # T4835700 on 2012 GMC Sierra with Factory ITBC
    We are often asked about how to bypass the factory-installed integrated trailer brake controller (ITBC) in the GMC Sierra and other vehicles. The ease of use and reliability offered by the Tekonsha P3 # 90195 make this a popular option to bypass a factory-installed brake controller. Based on customers experiences I suggest you go for the P3. I have linked an article that covers the process for installing an aftermarket controller in your vehicle. There are four or five blunt-cut wires...
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  • Where Do I Run the Wiring for BrakeRite II SD Electric-Hydraulic Actuator in Titan Disc Brake Kit
    The only hardwire connection that will need to be made for the Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator in the Titan Disc Brake Kit, # T4835700, is to a 12 volt DC battery with a minimum rating of 10 amp hours. All of the other components in the system use plug-in connections and connect to each other. I am including a diagram that shows how this system is set up which is very similar to the kit # T4843800. This system will not have any affect on your trailer's...
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  • Is it Possible to Install Surge Actuator and Electric over Hydraulic Actuator Installed on Trailer
    That we are aware of no, there isn't a way to have a surge actuator connected to your brake lines plus an electric over hydraulic actuator. The best option I could recommend would be to get a reliable electric over hydraulic actuator, install it correctly and you should be fine. The actuator we have found to be the most reliable that we offer is the Carlisle HydraStar Electric-Hydraulic Actuator for Disc Brakes # HBA16.
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  • How Does a Trailer Brake Controller Sense when a Trailer is Connected on a 2011 Chevy Silverado
    Aftermarket brake controllers send a small amount of voltage along the brake output wire, if a trailer is connected, the magnets in the brake assemblies will create a power draw. This power draw tells the controller that a trailer is connected. The integrated brake controller in your 2011 Chevy Silverado could possibly work in the same manner. I do not have much experience with them to say for sure. What I do know is that integrated brakes controllers often have trouble with electric...
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  • Compatibility of Titan BrakeRite II EOH Actuator Kit T4835700 with Dodge Factory Brake Controller
    The Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit # T4835700 will work with a Dodge Ram factory brake controller IF the controller has the option of an OEH (electric-over-hydraulic) setting. Since I do not know the model year of your truck and controller I suggest you check over the controller's menu screen to see if you can select EOH operation. If so, then you're good to go. If you do not have the option for EOH operation on your factory controller I suggest you replace...
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  • Titan BrakeRite II Not Working with 2019 Ford F-350
    The most likely culprit here is going to be the 12 volt power circuit on the 7-way of your 2019 Ford F-350. What we find on the newer F-Series trucks is that the circuit is not active when the vehicle is turned on. You need to either have the trailer connected or go through the on-screen setup and turn on the tow/haul feature in order for the 12 volt power circuit to activate. Therefore, I recommend checking the 7-way trailer connector on your F-350 for power. If the 12 volt circuit has...
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  • BrakeRite II SD part # T4835700 Pressure Rating
    The psi rating for the Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit # T4835700 that you referenced is 1,600 psi as that's the correct rating for disc brake applications. To use this with lower PSI drum brake applications you'd need the part # T4844100 which is a pressure reducer.
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  • Why Does Breakaway Kit of Titan Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Require Wiring to Battery
    Breakaway kit by law need to be able to hold the brakes of a trailer for a specific amount of time so that the trailer would be effectively stopped in the case of an emergency uncoupling. You could wire this kit to your trailer battery as it most likely has the power to activate the system, but straight to the 12 volt circuit of the trailer wiring wouldn't be ideal since that power would get shut off if wiring came disconnected. Which would happen if the trailer uncoupled on the highway.
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  • Mounting Hole Pattern Dimensions for Control Module of Titan Brake Rite
    I went out into our warehouse to get the mounting pattern dimensions of the module of the Brake Rite part # T4835700. From left to right they are all 6-3/4 inches apart. From the top holes to the bottom holes they measure 2-3/8 inches apart. From the top holes to the middle holes measures 1-1/4 inches.
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  • Brakes Locking up When Using BrakeRite II Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator
    Thanks for all that information and based on everything you said, I think you hit the nail on the head. If everything is working fine right now after your customer turned down the aggressiveness of his brake controller when using the Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit # T4835700 there is no reason to think it was anything but too high of a setting on the controller.
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  • Will an Air Utility Brake Control work with an Older Analog Proportional Controller
    I have something that will work is compatible with electric over hydraulic actuators. It is the Hayes Air Actuated Trailer Brake Controller # HA100400C. I also spoke with Titan and they haven't tested the BrakeRite II SD # T4835700 with the older style hydraulic actuated brake controllers like your Warner part 1300-76 so they cannot confirm compatibility. I spoke with my contact at Warner and your current controller is not compatible with electric over hydraulic actuators. I highly...
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  • Does Titan BrakeRite II Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit # T4835700 Require a Brake Controller
    The Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit # T4835700 does not actually have any type of accelerometer. You will need to use a brake controller compatible with electric over hydraulic actuators like the very popular P2 # 90885 which has an EOH setting with this system installed in your tow vehicle. This proportional brake controller has an accelerometer built into it to sense the correct amount of braking power to send to the trailer. There used to be an RF version...
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  • Will Titan BrakeRite II Electric Over Hydraulic Brake Actuator Work on 2016 Land Rover Range Rover
    As long as you have a 7-way trailer connector and a brake controller the BrakeRite II # T4835700 will work for you. Electric over Hydraulic brake actuators are not vehicle specific. They install on the trailer and receive a signal from the brake controller through the trailer wiring harness to engage the brakes.
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  • Is Brake Contoller Adapter Needed to Use Electronic-Over-Hydraulic Brakes with GM Factory Controller
    Yes, you will need a brake controller adapter to use electric-over-hydraulic brakes with your 2017 GMC 1500 that has the factory brake controller. If you have a Titan system you'll want the Titan BrakeRite EHB Adapter # T4846000 or for the HydraStar you'll need the HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Adapter Module # HBA-CAM.
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  • Parts Needed To Convert Trailer Brakes From Surge Hydraulic To Electric-Over-Hydraulic
    I just looked at the instructions for your Tekonsha Sentinel brake controller and under the Important Facts To Remember section, fact # 7 states the controller cannot be used with Electric Over Hydraulic brake systems. To install an EOH system on your 1997 Eagle Tri-axle trailer, I recommend the Tekonsha P2, part # 90885, or the Tekonsha P3, part # 90195 for your 2004 Chevrolet Avalanche 2500. Both of these controllers will work with either electric or electric over hydraulic brake...
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  • Will Brake Lines On Titan Disc Brake Kit Part # T4843200 Work On Titan BrakeRite II Part # T4835700
    The Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit part # T4835700 is designed for use with surge disc brakes. The disc brake calipers and brake lines currently on your trailer are compatible with this actuator. Depending on the location you mount the new actuator, you may need to purchase a new brake line that corresponds to the length discrepancy if mounted in a different location than the brake line ran to your current actuator. I've linked our brake lines in case...
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  • Should the Titan Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Run Continuously if the Breakaway Pin is Pulled
    If the breakaway pin is pulled then the electric over hydraulic actuator, such as # T4835700, will pump fluid back to the brakes to stop the trailer. The pressure would already have been built up in a real-world scenario. But if you pull the pin the unit will run continuously until either it is shut down manually (by inserting the breakaway pin or key in the switch) or the battery runs out of power (note: the unit should not be run dry for more than 10 seconds). This is explained in...
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  • Does the Module of BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Actuator Kit Have to Mount In a Certain Orientation
    The module of the Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit # T4835700 that you referenced does not require you to install it in any orientation. It is not like a proportional brake controller that requires mounting in a certain orientation to operate. Speaking of brake controllers though, you will want to go with a controller that is compatible with electric over hydraulic actuators like the part # 90885,
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  • Is the OEM Brake Controller in a 2018 Ram 3500 Compatible with the BrakeRite EOH Actuator
    I spoke with my contact at Titan who said that they have been experiencing some issues with the OEM brake controllers in the 2018 Ram 3500 pickups like what you have. He did say that it is hit and miss at this point so your controller may or may not work directly with the BrakeRite system but we do have a solution for you if it doesn't work properly. If you experience disconnect while using the system you can just us the Titan BrakeRite SD Adapter # T4845900 if you are having the Titan...
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  • Comparison of Titan EOH Brake Actuators Parts # T4813100 and # T4834100
    When you look at the product descriptions and the pictures they look basically identical. However, the Replacement Actuator, part # T4834100, is specifically designed to work with the BrakeRite II Severe Duty, part # T4835700, and that's all it works with. If you have this and need a new actuator then part # T4834100 is what you need. The Titan BrakeRite EHB, part # T4813100, is what you need if you're trying to add electric over hydraulic brakes to your trailer. I've attached some...
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
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Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Written by:
Lindsey S
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Jeff D
Updated by:
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Updated by:
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Video by:
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