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etrailer Invisible Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

etrailer Invisible Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Item # e98965
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Get a clean, factory look for your car when it's not being towed by using these invisible base plates. Tabs remain on tow bar arms and easily secure to base plate receivers with a quick turn. Simple, bolt-on installation with included hardware. 1-833-496-1390 to order etrailer base plates part number e98965 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all etrailer products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for etrailer Invisible Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms. Base Plates reviews from real customers.
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etrailer Base Plates - e98965

  • Removable Drawbars
  • etrailer
  • Twist Lock Attachment

Get a clean, factory look for your car when it's not being towed by using these invisible base plates. Tabs remain on tow bar arms and easily secure to base plate receivers with a quick turn. Simple, bolt-on installation with included hardware.


Features:

  • Custom-fit base plates provide attachment points for your tow bar
  • Invisible design creates seamless, clean look
    • No obtrusive crossbar or protruding brackets
    • Covers keep dirt and debris out of base plate receivers when you're not towing
  • Included tabs connect directly to your tow bar arms
    • Just insert the tab into the base plate and secure with the included safety pin
    • No need to remove, and possibly misplace, drawbar arms
  • Sturdy, dependable design
    • Spreads towing force evenly to minimize weight placed on suspension
    • Constructed of durable steel
  • Simple installation - no welding required
    • Bolts securely to your vehicle's chassis
  • Electrical bracket lets you easily mount a round electrical connector plug
  • Instructions and necessary hardware included
  • Compatible with all etrailer, Demco, and Blue Ox tow bars
    • Adaptable for use with Roadmaster tow bars (adapters sold separately)
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Distance between brackets: 22"
  • Bracket height: 18"
  • 1-Year limited warranty


Simple, Invisible Design

Setting up these invisible base plates for use with your etrailer tow bar is fast and easy. They easily bolt onto the ends of your tow bar. And because the tabs remain on your tow bar at all times instead of protruding from your vehicle , your car maintains a clean look when it's not being towed.


Easy Hookup and Disconnect

Demco Base Plate Tabless Hookup

Using the etrailer invisible base plates to attach and remove your tow bar couldn't be easier. With the base plate tabs attached to your tow bar arms, simply insert the tabs into the receivers on your vehicle and twist to lock them in place. Insert the included pull pins to add an extra layer of security, ensuring the tabs stay put. To remove each arm, simply tug the pull pin to disengage the lock, twist the tow bar arm, and pull the tab out of the bracket.


Receiver Covers

Keep dirt and debris out of the base plate receivers with the included covers. These high-density polyethylene covers easily snap into place over each pull point when your tow bar is not attached. Limiting internal corrosion makes it easier to slide the tabs in and out and helps to prevent seizing so that the tabs don't get stuck.


Tow Bar Adapters

If you have a tow bar from a different manufacturer, an adapter may be available. etrailer offers adapters for use with other tow bars so that you don't have to go through the added hassle and expense of replacing your tow bar when outfitting your new towed car with base plates.


Type of Tow Bar Adapter
Roadmaster Tracker, Falcon 2, Falcon All Terrain, Blackhawk, Blackhawk All Terrain, Sterling tow bars with serial numbers up to 14,500 e98983
Roadmaster Nighthawk, Sterling All Terrain, Sterling tow bars with serial numbers 14,501 e98984
Roadmaster Eagle, Eagle 8000 e98979
Roadmaster Falcon 5250 e98981
Blue Ox No adapter needed
Demco Kwik-Tow No adapter needed
Curt Rambler No adapter needed

etrailer Technical Support

At etrailer, we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your base plates. The technicians at etrailer perform flat tow installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



e98965 etrailer RV Tabless Baseplates

Installation Details E98965 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles




Video of etrailer Invisible Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for etrailer Invisible Base Plate Kit Installation - 2018 Chevrolet Equinox

Hey everybody, how's it going Today, we're gonna be going over and showing you how to install the etrailer invisible base plate kit here on our 2018 Chevrolet Equinox. So a base plate kit is just gonna be one of the several components we need to successfully flat tow our Equinox here. So in addition to the base plates, we're gonna need a tow bar, which is the physical connection between the two. We're also gonna need safety cables required by law. A lot of the times the tow bar actually comes with these, so you don't have to worry about purchasing them separately. And then the last two things we need are some sort of lighting systems, such as diodes and bulb and socket kit, or just some magnetic lights.

Really anything we have to transfer to signals from the motorhome to our vehicle. And then last but not least, another legal requirement is gonna be a supplemental braking system. That's required in nearly all states and that's just gonna help our motorhome come to a more safe and effective stop. So if we take a closer look at the actual base plate here, now on either side, it's gonna look pretty much the same. Now for this particular side here, number one, you're gonna notice we have a convenience link.

That's what they call this here. And what the convenience link is, it's simply gonna provide an attachment to our safety cable. Now, most everything with this base plate kit here is tucked back behind the bumper pretty far, but the convenience links actually protrude out a few inches and that's by design. Therefore, we don't have to worry about banging into our bumper as much with the clevis here on our safety cable. That way, it just makes a little bit easier, minimizes the chance to damage the vehicle.

'Cause as we can see here, pull that clip up, pull the pin out. We do want that to be away a few inches or so because if it's too tucked away behind the bumper and we risk hitting it each time and causing scratches. The other thing to the side here, we have our actual removable arm. So this is the physical connection here between the base plate and the tow bar arm. So this is a pretty simple design.

It's very easy to use. This connection here is gonna vary depending on what your tow bar we're gonna be using. We'll talk about this more later, but this base plate kit here is actually compatible with a few different tow bars. And that's one thing you need to be careful of when you're selecting a base plate kit is that the base plate and the tow bar are gonna play well with each other. But in order to remove the base plate or sorry, in order to remove the tow bar from the base plate, it's very easy. Just pull that pin out, pull this pin out. And again, that can vary depending on which tow bar we have, but now we have the actual removable arm portion. So if you guys want, you can leave this installed, but it does protrude from the vehicle a little bit and it is a different color. So it's usually unsightly. Most people do remove these. So and in which case, you would just simply pull this clip out like so. Remove that and you're gonna twist it in either direction here and you can just pull it straight out, just like so. And as you'll see in a moment, we actually have a protective cap that can go over there. And once we have that cap in place, you can see everything has like a nice black powder coated finish, which is just gonna help it blend in well with the vehicle and this underbody paneling. And since most of it's recessed, we can hardly tell that we have a base plate on the vehicle, which was one of the reasons I really liked this kit so much. It has a really sleek install look. So here's that protective cap we talked about. So this does two things. Number one, it's gonna provide a little bit of a cleaner appearance. And number two, it's gonna prevent any dirt or water from getting inside the actual base plate arm there, possibly leading to corrosion and rust. It's not likely, but just having that protective cap, there are some extra peace of mind. But when we're ready to take off down the road again, it's very simple to hook everything back up. I will say sometimes those tabs there are hard to get off by your hand. So just use some pin to depress it. But once we have that out, we'll simply reinsert our removable arm. It needs to go in like this, twist it in either direction, line up the pin, secure it with a clip on the other side, take our tow bar arm here, line up the lugs, re-install the pin and clip for that. And then simply re-secure it with our clip on the other side. And then obviously, don't forget our safety cable. And if we had any electrical connections, we need to make those as well. But aside from that, we're ready to head off down the road. So in regards to compatibility, we touched on this a little bit, but you really need to make sure that when you're choosing your flat tow opponents, that they're all gonna be compatible with one another. And one of the biggest issues you can run into is your base plate and your tow bar. Now it's always best practice to match the brand of the tow bar to the brand of the base plate. But luckily here for the etrailer invisible base plate kit, you don't have to do that because it's gonna be widely compatible with several different tow bars. As you can see here, we actually have a Blue Ox tow bar hooked up. We can easily use this. There's no additional adapters required. We can also use a tow bar from CURT, Demco, or etrailer. All those tow bars are gonna be directly compatible without any additional adapters. Now there's another big tow bar manufacturer on the market, Roadmaster. And we can still use that tow bar with this base plate kit. We will, however, need an adapter depending on which tow bar, which particular Roadmaster tow bar we have. But aside from that, it's a very compatible base plate kit here that's gonna allow us to use pretty much any tow bar. Some however are gonna require adapter. So in regards to installation, it's really not too bad. I will say this is maybe one of the more time consuming base plate installations. Nothing is particularly hard, but we do have to drill a couple holes and we have to hold the base plate into position. So we have to clamp it down. So you're gonna fight with it a little bit, but I don't think anything is, like I said, too particularly challenging. It's really just gonna take you some time and some patience. And as long as you give yourselves roughly an afternoon to get this done, I would say four or five hours, depending on your experience level, it's definitely gonna be doable for you guys with just some common hand tools. Let's go ahead and walk you through that entire process step by step now. So the first part of our installation, we need to open up the hood on our vehicle. And if we look here to the top of our grill, we're gonna have six fasteners total, three on each side. There's gonna these little torx screws here. So we're gonna take a T15 torx bit. We're gonna remove those. And again, there are six total, three on each side. So the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna come inside to our wheel well here on the backside of the front bumper. Now they're hard to see, but we're gonna have some more torque screws here, which we'll remove with that same T15 torx bit we we're just using. And there's gonna be five of them here on either side. We need to remove all those. Now I will say we have kind of a handy tool we're gonna be using for this. It's sort of this right angle adapter. But if you guys don't have that, that's perfectly fine. In order to get your tool in there to remove those, all you need to do is get in the vehicle, started up and then turn the wheel to either side. That's gonna give you plenty of room to work. So you don't have to worry about this limited space. But if you do have one of these little handy adapters, we're certainly gonna utilize this. But again, just go ahead and remove each of those torque screws. So now, once we get all those torx fasteners removed from the wheel well lining, we're actually gonna peel this back a little bit. Now this next fastener is pretty hard to see, but basically it's gonna be coming down at an angle attaching the fender to our bumper fascia. So going down like that. And in order to get that out, you're gonna use a seven millimeter socket and you are gonna need a small tool here. So if you just had a quarter inch drive ratchet, that'll probably work, but we're just gonna be sneaking that tool back behind the bumper here so we can get out that little seven millimeter screw. So here's what that screw looks like and it's pretty small. Definitely hard to see back there, but just take your time. Once we get this one out, we'll just repeat that same process on the other side. So the next step of our installation, we're actually gonna be coming underneath the vehicle here. We're gonna have some fasteners on the bottom side of the bumper fascia. So there's gonna be eight total, four on each side here, here, and here. We're gonna remove these with a seven millimeter socket. So keep in mind, on certain models, you may have an additional bolt here inside this little mud flap, this wind deflector, whatever you wanna call it. It's gonna be this one right in the corner here and we'll remove that with a seven millimeter socket. Now you may or may not need to remove that. So just go ahead and look over there, that little panel. And if you do have it and make sure you go ahead and remove this other screw. But we have one on each side in that same location. So now we're ready to remove the bumper cover. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna come to either side here. We're just gonna grab behind this little fender here on the outside or outside of the bumper. We're basically just gonna be pulling out. You should hear the clips release. You wanna make sure that you pull closer here to the panel to release the clips. You don't wanna pull here when there's clips up here, just because that's gonna deformed the clips and possibly lead to braking. So just take your time here. If it doesn't feel right, just stop, look behind there, make sure there's something we can't see. So next we're ready to actually remove the bumper cover here. So go ahead and set up an area aside the vehicle. Make sure you can set it above the ground. So it's not necessarily getting scratched up. But what we're gonna do is we're gonna go ahead and start to pull each side out. It doesn't matter which side we start on, but we're just gonna be grabbing the end of the bumper here. Just sort of pulling out to release those clips. There's gonna be three or four of them here. And you can see here, we have some painter's tape, just on both sides there. That way we don't have to worry about scratching the fender here or the bumper. And if you have a small trim panel tool, like what we see here, this is definitely gonna help you just get between the two panels there and release those clips. But now we're gonna go ahead and pull out. And again, just stick your trim panel tool in there as best you can to release those clips. And there we go. Now we're gonna jump to the other side there and just repeat those same few steps to release the ends. So before we pull the fascia off, since this model has fog lights, we're gonna reach and be tying the fender here, or sorry, we're gonna reach in behind the bumper cover in between the fabric liner, but we should be able to see our fog light housing here. Now we can either unplug the clip or we can just rotate these to remove the actual whole bulb. But again, this is only for models with the fog lights and you can do this while you have the bumper partially hanging off. It's just a little bit easier to do this beforehand. So we're just gonna reach in there and we're gonna rotate that so we can just remove the entire bulb, just like that. We got to do this on each side, again, only from model with fog lights. So now we're ready to pull the bumper cover off the vehicle. Now make sure we go ahead and set up a place where we can set this. So it's not laying on the ground. Doesn't get scratched up. This particular model here also has fog lights. So there's gonna be some additional connections we need to remove once we get the cover away from the vehicle. But we've got both sides free now, so we're just gonna pull up here on the center to release that. Just be careful. If you have an extra set of hands, that's gonna allow you to manage this a little bit easier. But as you can see here, we do have one connection over on the passenger side there. So we don't actually have to remove the harness from the fog lights. We just removed that singular connector. Now, sometimes these are hard to remove. So you may need to spray some lubricant in there or just get an extra set of hands there. But basically, we're just gonna be depressing that tab, that red tab there. We're pulling the red tab out and then depressing you black center section. So you can see, sometimes they're pretty hard, especially on some of these older vehicles. We just use a plastic trim panel tool there to depress that center section a little bit more, then we can pull it away like so. But now we'll take our bumper cover here. We'll go ahead and set it aside. So next we need to remove the driver's side headlight. So we're gonna take the same seven millimeter socket we've been working with so far. There's gonna be two bolts on the top here. One here, one here, and then we're gonna have two more under there. We'll show you those in a second. So now underneath the headlight, as I said we have two more. One of them is gonna be towards the center of the vehicle here. We'll go ahead and remove that. And now we have one more on the outside. And make sure we go ahead and grab a hold of the headlight assembly. We don't want it to fall off the vehicle, but there's our last screw there. Go ahead and remove that one. Now, once we have all of our hardware removed, we should be able to remove the headlight assembly by prying it and wiggling it out. And we do have one connection here. So the same thing, we're gonna pull out on that red locking tab. And then we're gonna depress that center section. And again, some of these can be hard to get out. So you may just need to use a tool to just put a little bit more force on that tab there. But then once we do that, we can just remove it and set our headlamp assembly aside. So the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna be removing some of the hardware that attaches the washer fluid reservoir to the frame here of the vehicle. So we're gonna take a 10 millimeter socket. We're gonna have one nut here and we're gonna have a bolt up top and then a bolt on the bottom. It's hard to see. So we're gonna go ahead and start by removing those three fasteners. So there's what that one there in the bottom corner looks like and have that same one up top here as well. So once we have our fasteners removed, we're actually gonna be pulling out to free the washer fluid reservoir from the studs there. And then we're gonna be rotating it up, securing it as best we can. The reason we're doing this is we need access to this frame rail here 'cause we're gonna be drilling into that. So before we do that there, we're gonna have one little clip here we need to pry off. This one here, attaching it to the frame there. And then once we get that one off, we'll go ahead and just rotate this whole assembly up. So we've got pretty good access to our frame rail with the washer fluid reservoir in this position here. I can't really rotate it too much more 'cause we have the filler neck there. So I think I'm just gonna prop it up on this bumper beam best we can. And I'm gonna use a bungee cord to secure it to this bracing up here. So next, we need to do a slight bit of trimming. So on the bottom support here, below the bumper beam, you're gonna see this little plastic, sort of hard plastic and rubber, this little flap here. What we're gonna do is we're actually gonna trim this. So you see how we have this generally marked out. The instructions do giver you the diagram as well, but it's hard to tell exactly where they're measuring from. So you just mark it out like we have here, about the center of this bottom part to just directly below that ambient temperature sensor here at the top. So, because this was two different materials here, what we're gonna do is we're just gonna take a regular pair of scissors and we're just gonna cut through that rubber as best as we can there until we get to the hard plastic. And then once we get to the hard plastic, we'll switch over to our Dremel tool and just be careful, we'll just go ahead and follow those cut lines that we've made. Here we go. And if we wanted to, we can come back with a file or a razor knife to clean up those rough edges a little bit more. So here's what we have, the material removed from the driver's side. We're gonna do that same thing to the passenger side. You can see we have that same little flap. However, we don't have that ambient temperature sensor up top here. So we don't have to be as careful, but we'll just go ahead and remove about the same material here over on the passenger side. So then the next thing we're gonna do, we're gonna take our base plate assembly here. We're actually gonna be setting this on the vehicle here. So there really isn't a great way to secure it aside from using some clamps or some C-clamps. Whatever you have, these welding clamps work pretty good as well. But basically, there's gonna be a pinch weld here on the outside of the frame and on the bottom of the frame here. And this is pretty much what we're gonna be lining up our base plate with. So the more clamps you can fit on here, the better. We we're able to get two on the other side. This side, we only have one. But again, just securing it once we get it into position. You wanna make sure that the back edge of the base plate here, this is flush so we can get it to this part of the frame. And the same thing goes for at the top. We wanna make sure it's as close as we can get. Now, something that we did when we we're putting this up here, we we're fighting with it. We would adjust the side a little bit to get it flush to the top or the side and the other side would move. So you wanna make sure that you just pay attention to one side here. Obviously, we want the other side close to where we wanna be but we're gonna go ahead and secure this side first with two bolts. We'll show you those in a second. And then we can make some finer tuning adjustments on the other side before we bolt everything down. But with that said now, we're gonna take a 3/8 inch drill bit. We're gonna drill two holes to start. We're gonna have one here in the center on the side, and then one here in the center on the top. So we're gonna go ahead and drill those both out now and then we'll secure them with the appropriate hardware. So we've got one of our holes drilled here. So what I'm gonna do is before I drill the other one on the side here, I'm just gonna take one of our hex bolts here, along with the nyloc nut. We'll just go ahead and loosely secure that just to stop the base plate from potentially shifting. So before we drill this hole here, you do need to be careful because I went ahead and looked behind this panel here, and we do have the inlet or the outlet here for the intercooler. So it's this hard plastic tubing here. So I don't wanna pierce that obviously. So what I did is I took a piece of wood there and I just shoved it between that intercooler piping in the back of our hole. I don't think it's gonna line up perfectly, but we don't wanna take any chances. So just make sure you put something back there to stop the drill bit from damaging that if it did come into contact. So now that we have that hole drilled out, we're just gonna go ahead, take another piece or take some more hardware here. Another one of our hex bolts, nyloc washer. Let's go ahead and secure that and then we'll do that same thing on the other side. But as we said there, we're gonna be maneuvering the other side there just to help it line up a little bit more. Yours maybe more even on each side here, but sometimes these can get welded wrong, or sometimes the vehicle, some things are in the way, so it's not allowing it to sit flush. So just a little bit of maneuvering, just tapping it up and back there just to make sure it's flush to the side here and the top. So now we're gonna come to the other side here. We're just gonna repeat that same process, drill out that top hole here, the side hole, and then go ahead and insert our hardware. The next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna take a 9/16 inch socket and wrench. We're gonna temporarily tighten down before bolts that we just installed. So the next thing we need to do is we're gonna have four bolts holding our bumper beam here to the frame rail. So working on either side, it doesn't matter which one we'll start with. We're over here on the passenger side now, but we're gonna remove each of those four bolts. And then what we're gonna have to do is we're gonna have to loosen the other four bolts on the other side, but don't remove them completely, just loosening them a couple turns. 'Cause basically what we're gonna be doing is we're gonna be pulling this bumper beam out away from the frame. That way, we can slide a bracket through there. So as we said, we'll take a 13 millimeter socket and I'll begin going ahead and removing each of these four bolts. And then I'll loosen the other four on the other side, but still leave them in place. So here's that bracket we talked about earlier. They're gonna be sliding in between the frame and the bumper beam. So they're actually labeled driver and passenger, as we said, we're working on the passenger side. So we're gonna be taking the passenger side bracket. It's pretty self-explanatory, it's only gonna go in one way. And just feed it through like that at the top. And then once we get it in about the position that we want it, we're gonna take our factory hardware here. We're just gonna place that, sandwich everything together to hold it in place. So the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna take the larger half inch bolts that come in your kit here. We're gonna be using these to install our bracket to the side of the base plate. Now, before we do that, we wanna make sure we take some Loctite, place over that bolt like so, slide it through there. And on the backside, we're gonna have our nyloc nut. So we're gonna have to do two of these. One on the top and one on the bottom. So now the next thing we're gonna do, once we have that hardware in place, we're gonna take a 3/4 inch socket and wrench. We'll go ahead and tighten both of these bolts down to the specifications in your instructions. So once we have those two bolts torqued down to the specifications in our instructions, we'll go ahead and repeat that same process on the other side. And then don't forget to tighten your four bumper bolts here on each side. So now the next thing we need to do is, you remember these bolts that we torqued down earlier, or actually just tighten them. We need to actually torque them down. But before we do that, we're gonna remove them and apply some of the Loctite that comes in your kit here. And then once I get those two bolts tightened down, we need to drill out our other holes. Two more on the top, one on the bottom here. We're gonna drill those out using a 3/8 inch drill bit, just like we did for these two here, then secure them using the same sequence of hardware that we did previously. So we need to do that on both sides. So you can see now we have all of our remaining holes drill through and all of our remaining hardware installed with Loctite and torqued appropriately. So now obviously, we need to do that on both sides. But once that's done, the final thing we need to do is attach our safety cable. So what this is gonna do is, we're gonna take one of our quick links here. We're gonna attach it to that hole in the bottom of the base plate like so and then we're gonna take the safety cable. We're gonna feed it up and over the frame around back and attach it to our quick link just like so. On the passenger side, it's a little bit tighter up there. Just feed it through as best we can. Try not to get too intertwined with the wiring harness or anything else we have behind the back of the vehicle here. There we go. Now we're gonna come down just like this. So one in on the outside is gonna attach to the quick link there. Then the other side can bring over there and attached like so as well. Now, we're simply just going to tighten this nut here to close it. So once we get the nut close, we don't have to torque this down super tight. I'm just gonna take a pair of vice grips or some channel locks, whatever you have, just give it a little quarter turn or so to tighten it. And now we just need to do that same thing on the other side as well. So now that we have the base plate bolted on and we went ahead and attached our safety cables, the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna attach our electrical bracket here. Now this is a pretty basic design. We can attach it to either side here. There's gonna be two holes on the back of the safety chain convenience link. They're gonna match up with the two holes on our electrical connector bracket. So again, we can mount it over here using these two holes or over here using those two holes. It really doesn't matter and the hardware is gonna be provided for this. Just gonna be two bolts, two nuts, and two lock washers. So pretty simple design, just go ahead and mount it on either side that's gonna work best for you. So now that we have the bracket installed, the couple things we have to do to finish up our installation is number one, we need to return the vehicle back to stock. So re-install the washer fluid reservoir along with our driver's side headlight. And then we'd go ahead and make our cuts to our bumper. And then we can re-install the bumper in the reverse order that we removed it previously. So now we need to go ahead and do some slight trimming to our bumper fascia here before we place it back on the vehicle. Now your instructions give you a pretty good guide, but basically we're just gonna be cutting out a few of these little louvers here, top and bottom. One on the inside edge here and on the inside edge here. So really only have to make four cuts per side. It is pretty basic, but they do sort of preface this with letting us know that these are just rough estimates. You're gonna need to test at the bumper and make sure the base plate kit doesn't hit on the actual bumper. If so, we need to take some further cuts here, but it's a good guide here. This should get us pretty close, but as we said, we're gonna take these out on both sides. Test fit the bumper to make sure it clears and then cut more as needed. But with that being said, we'll go ahead and take our Dremel tool here. We'll begin removing the material. So we actually have to go ahead and flip the bumper around because it was hard to get into those cuts there using our Dremel tool. But depending on which tool you're using, you may be able to get it all from the front side. But as we said here, this is what it looks like. This is all we're removing. We're gonna clean up our edges here with a file or a razor blade here. Make it look a little bit better and just repeat that same process on the other side. And that's gonna do it today for our look and installation of the etrailer invisible base plate kit here on our 2018 Chevrolet Equinox..


Customer Reviews

etrailer Invisible Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms - e98965

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (134 Customer Reviews)

Get a clean, factory look for your car when it's not being towed by using these invisible base plates. Tabs remain on tow bar arms and easily secure to base plate receivers with a quick turn. Simple, bolt-on installation with included hardware.

by:
2020 Chevrolet Equinox

Great product! Easy to follow instructions and a perfect fit for my vehicle.




by:

Great piece of equipment.




by:
2019 Chevrolet Equinox

Arrived in 3days. Now to install it!




by:

It works great.




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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


Installation was a bit involved. The toughest part was dissembling and reassembling the front of the vehicle to complete the installation of the base plate. Also, it was somewhat difficult to complete the connections on some of the blind holes, this was very time consuming and a bit frustrating. Before attempting any connections make sure that you clean the power coating out of the threaded parts. Further, I did have to trim some of the facia around the driver’s side to clear the base plate. I have used this setup to tow over 13k miles and it has been performed without any problems. I am happy with this base plate and I would purchase it again.




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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


Had looked at other ones So glad we went through E trailer Much easier to install. My advice would be don't follow the temp plates in the directions. Your better off measuring it yourself.




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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


It is so easy to work with eTrailer!! A couple of phone calls and all your questions are answered. Their videos are also spot on and helped me tremendously when the place that installed the base plate said that they wouldn't install the BRK2505 brake breakaway kit. A simple view of their video and i was confident I would be able to tackle this portion of the install. thanks eTrailer, GREAT JOB!!




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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


Even though the box was damaged in transport, all parts were there and none were damaged due to the good packing that was done!




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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


Super simple install and stealthy look once installed. This looks way better than any other baseplate on the market. A+




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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


I ordered the invisible bass plate because I have a smittie built after market rock bumper. It is not approved for using for towing. So I hoped I could do modifications on the bumper to make this work. To My surprise it worked without any changes. I towed My 2005 Jeep with it and it works great with my blue ox towbar. Thanks etrailer.




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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


I like it best when you get what you need the first time and it everything it’s suppose to be and the order is correct.
Top marks to etrailer!!




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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


The base plate and hardware arrived yesterday and I am in the process of installing. Looks great and looks like it will fit. Only issue is there are 4 nuts and washers missing. I can get them from local hardware and I should bein good shape.


Comments
I will have our Customer Service team reach out to you.
-- Etrailer Expert Jenny N - 04/21/2022


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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


Haven't installed yet, but etrailer Hasn't let me down yet!!!


Comments
Works awesome
Steve - 07/07/2022


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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


Easy installation, quick unhook and hookup. A much cleaner installation.


Comments
Easy quick connect and disconnect, easy to install
Jay - 07/23/2022


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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


Using on a 2020 Gladiator with an aftermarket bumper. I did make some modifications to the bumper for this to work. Fits like a glove, even tighter. Installation kicked my butt a little at first but was to my own fault and stubbornness and not product or installation instructions. Spoke with customer service rep, Michael, and he assured me product would fit. Great product. Performed test run on 8-26 and worked as advertised. Highly recommend!


Comments
Great
Ronald - 02/02/2022


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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


Had to have it drop shiped at our campground. Lucky i had the tools with me to install. For the most part it was pretty straightforward,but the passenger side bracket had about a half inch gap so i had to leave the lockwasher out so that i had enough threads to get the bolt to start. Once it was started it pulled up tight. I give it 4 stars due to the two tab nuts not being long enough. If the tabs were an inch longer you could actually hold it in place and it would install much easier. Cant thank etrailer enough for doing everything they could to help me get back on the road 1100 miles from home.




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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


The installation instructions and video were misleading. Much more difficult to install then portrayed. Getting the base plate bracket holes to line up with the existing bumper bracket holes was very difficult. 1-2 hours spent trying to align holes.

Instructions describe how to cut holes in plastic under bumper cover. Instructions say nothing about how difficult it is to reinstall and fit around existing bumper, brackets, and base plate.


Comments
I recommend viewing the video install that we have on a 2021 Jeep Wrangler. The installation starts at mark 1:17. One trick that we have is to tape the washers into place before lifting the base plate to the frame as shown at mark 4:11. When installing the hardware the base plate you will want to hand tighten the hardware down on both sides as shown at mark 4:55 and then torque the hardware down per manual specifications. Our installer Clayton shows a good technique at mark 6:26 on how to cut out the fascia when installing the bottom fascia back around the base plate.
-- Etrailer Expert Jenny N - 12/09/2021


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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


This is the part that I needed. It arrived on-time and in good condition. (The card board shipping box was damaged, and had been repaired with clear tape, but nothing was missing and all of the contents were in good shape.)




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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


This worked well for towing our Jeep Cherokee across the country and back this spring and summer, over 7500 miles total. The only reason for 4 instead of 5 stars is that the connection for the safety cable is quite close to the main pin connection for the towbar arm, making hooking up a bit awkward. Only an inch of additional separation would greatly improve it. Nevertheless, it worked well for us. I’d buy it again, and install it myself again. Thanks, eTrailer!




by:

Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


First off let me say this is not my first order from etrailer. Previous orders have been very smooth with timely delivery and quality product with excellent customer service from available Technicians to help out with issues pertaining to installation. This current order arrived with the major component missing (baseplate). etrailer has stepped up and is currently doing battle with UPS. Thanks to Nicole R. for all of your attention to this matter. I will continue to do business with this upstanding company in the future. Merry Christmas!




by:

Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


Products were as described and easy to install!




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Review from a similar etrailer Tabless in Base Plates


Looks good so far. A bit of confusion with the instructions. I had to loosen the first two bolts going into the bumper quite a bit before the holes on the radiator attachment piece would line up to the bar. Eventually it all worked out.



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See what our Experts say about this etrailer Base Plates



  • What is The Capacity Of The etrailer Invisible Base Plate Kit For A 2018 Chevy Equinox
    Base plates are designed for the GVWR of the vehicle so there isn't a known maximum for the etrailer Invisible Base Plate Kit # e98965 because it's only tested to the maximum GVWR. The base plate is more of an anchor and the tow bar does the actual pulling, so you'll want to insure that you choose the correctly rated tow bar for the curb weight of your Equinox as well as any items you load into it. Since the GVWR of your Equinox is 4,400lbs to 4,900lbs my recommendation is the etrailer...
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  • Best Flat-Tow Package for a 2019 Chevrolet Equinox
    Yes, the 2019 Chevrolet Equinox can be flat towed. The 1.5L turbocharged FWD, the 1.6L diesel, and the 2.0L engine models can all be flat towed. I suggest the etrailer Invisible Base Plate Kit, # e98965 etrailer SD Non-Binding Tow Bar, # e34ZR SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System, # SM99251 Roadmaster Diode 7-Wire to 6-Wire Flexo-Coil Wiring Kit, # RM-15267 Roadmaster Stop Light Switch Kit, # RM-751489 The etrailer Base Plate Kit, # e98965 matched with the etrailer Tow...
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  • What Parts do I Need to Flat-Tow My 2018 Chevy Equinox?
    We definitely have the parts and some installer options for you. For the parts, you need a base plate, a tow bar, safety cables, a tow braking system, and vehicle tow wiring. I recommend the following setup: - etrailer Invisible Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms # e98965 - Blue Ox Ascent Non-Binding Tow Bar - Motorhome Mount - 2" Hitch # BX4370 (comes with safety cables) - Brake Buddy Select 3 Portable Supplemental Braking System # HM39524 - Roadmaster Diode 7-Wire to 6-Wire Flexo-Coil...
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  • Recommended Flat Towing Components For A 2018 Chevy Equinox 2LT AWD
    AWD models of the 2018 Chevy Equinox have to have a 1.6L Diesel engine in order to be able to be flat towed. If your 2018 Chevy Equinox 2LT meets this requirement then you'll need the following equipment: Tow Bar: The etrailer SD Non-Binding Tow Bar # e34ZR will fit the baseplate you were looking at. Safety cables are included so you won't have to purchase these separately and the adjustable shank helps to keep the tow bar level between your vehicle and motorhome without needing an adapter....
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  • What Parts do I Need to Flat-Tow My 2018 Chevy Equinox?
    In order to flat-tow your your 2018 Chevy Equinox, you will need base plates, a tow bar, a tow braking system, and vehicle tow wiring. It is important to note that your owner's manual does not recommend flat-towing with the 2.0L I4 Gasoline Engine - Turbocharged model. Here's a setup of the following parts you need: - etrailer Invisible Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms # e98965 (will work with all engine models) - Roadmaster Falcon - Motorhome Mount # RM-522 - Adapter for Roadmaster Tow...
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Info for this part was:

Employee Lindsey S
Edited by:
Lindsey S
Employee Joshua S
Video by:
Joshua S
Employee Chris R
Video by:
Chris R
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B
Employee Mike S
Updated by:
Mike S
Employee Noah M
Updated by:
Noah M
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Kristina F
Written by:
Kristina F

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