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Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Item # C53FR
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This custom-fit base plate kit lets you hook up your tow bar to your vehicle. The main body remains hidden for a clean, unobtrusive look when your vehicle is not being towed. Simple, bolt-on installation with included hardware. Call 800-298-1624 to order CURT base plates part number C53FR or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all CURT products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms. Base Plates reviews from real customers.
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CURT Base Plates - C53FR

  • Removable Drawbars
  • CURT
  • Twist Lock Attachment

This custom-fit base plate kit lets you hook up your tow bar to your vehicle. The main body remains hidden for a clean, unobtrusive look when your vehicle is not being towed. Simple, bolt-on installation with included hardware.


Features:

  • Custom-fit base plates provide attachment points for tow bar
  • Twist-lock tabs for easy installation and removal as needed
  • Concealed main body for OE look and seamless integration with the vehicle
  • Sturdy, dependable design
    • Spreads towing force evenly to minimize weight placed on suspension
    • Constructed of welded steel
  • Simple installation - no welding required
    • Bolts securely to your vehicle chassis
  • Physically tested to gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR)
  • Precisely welded for superior strength and fit
  • Protected by a durable high-gloss black powder coat finish
  • Co-cured in a rust-resistant liquid Bonderite coating
  • Includes base plate and installation hardware (tow bar sold separately)
  • Compatible with Curt and Blue Ox tow bars


Specs:

  • Distance between brackets: 24"
  • Bracket height: 15-1/2"
  • Limited lifetime warranty


70109 Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Installation Details C53FR Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles




Video of Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Curt Custom Base Plate Kit Installation - 2016 Chevrolet Equinox

Hi there Chevrolet owners. Today, your 2016 Chevrolet Equinox, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Curt's base plate. And this is what our base plate looks like when it's installed. You've got your attachment points here on each side, and these will attach to any Curt tow bar and also Blue Ox tow bars. We do also have adapters available here at etrailer, so if went with a Roadmaster or another manufacturer's base plate or tow bar, you can adapt those over, so that way you can get it attached to this base plate. If we go just to the inside of that, we've got our safety chain attachment here.

We can hook those on, on each side, so we've got that supplemental connection. And the rest of the base plate's hidden completely behind the fascia there, so you're really not gonna see the rest. The attachment arms here can be removed, so when you're not flat towing, you simply pull the pin here and give it a twist, and that'll pop out of there. That'll minimize the base plate look at the front of the vehicle. And I also realized that it kinda stays flush here at the front, 'cause when you're walking by in your garage, there's a chance that you could hit your shin on there, and boy, that really hurts.

So it's cool that you can clean it up a little bit at the front. Now, some of the things that I didn't particularly like about this base plate was the fact that it did not have any electrical mounting on it. So we had to make our own bracketry here to get this installed, and our customer doesn't have a braking system, but if they did, they would also be installing a breakaway switch, and there's no location on here provided for that either. So the other manufacturers, like Blue Ox, would provide mounting locations for at least your electrical connector, and usually that's enough, where you can utilize that mounting location to get your breakaway switch attached somewhere right there. So this was quite a bit more work.

You gotta spend a little extra money on some either stock metal or we're using long brackets here to make this all happen. So I just didn't really particularly care about that. I did run into a couple of issues too on the install. The hardware just didn't seem to fit as well as some of the other manufacturers' base plates, but in the end it did actually look pretty nice, so I was happy with the results in the end. But yeah, just compared to the other manufacturers, I did find this one to be quite a bit more difficult to install.

There was some extra components that was required to make it all happen. I really would recommend a Roadmaster base plate. They're gonna be quite a bit easier. But the Blue Ox one is very similar to this base plate. It's gonna look very similar, but it's also gonna be, in my opinion, a better kit. It just provides better hardware in it that it just attaches a little bit better and you get that mounting location in there as well. But if Curt is something that you're kind of brand loyal to and you wanna stick with, this is an option we've got here at etrailer, so you can pick this up. So now that we've covered some of the features of our base plate, why don't you follow along with me and we'll show you how to get it installed. This is gonna be a pretty lengthy project, so if you're doing this at home in your garage, I would give yourself at least a full Saturday, maybe even a full weekend to get it on, just because of some of the issues, you'll see, that we ran into with the hardware might give you a hiccup, that might make it extend another day. We'll begin our installation at the front of the vehicle with our hood open. There's four Torx bits across the front that we're gonna need to remove. We'll use a T20 Torx bit to remove these bolts. All right. And we can see here that our side covers are kinda covering us up here, so we'll be taking those off as well. So we're gonna use a screwdriver here to remove these push pins. You can see there's a little kind of, like, a slotted opening there for your screwdriver to fit in. Push that in and then give it a little bit of a twist. You can also use a trim panel tool as well, 'cause they do get a little stiff, but usually once you pop the center out, you can just pull it the rest of the way out of there, just like that. We're gonna get all three of these clips removed on each side. After removing all three clips, you can lift up on the front of the panel here, and it just flips backwards, and stays attached right there on that side. We'll get the other side removed the same way. We're now on the driver's side wheel well area, and I did turn the wheel a little bit to the right here, just to give us some room to access the hardware here. You've got two bolts, same size Torx as up front, the T20, two clips, same as the ones up front, and then straight up here, you'll have a seven millimeter head bolt, so we'll use our seven millimeter socket to remove that. So we're just gonna zip these guys out of here, get the Torx out first. Get that seven millimeter out of there. And we'll use our screwdriver to pop those clips out just like the ones up top. We'll then do the same thing over on the other side. When I go to do the other side, I'm gonna turn the wheel the other way. We're now underneath the vehicle, and along the front edge here on the outsides, you're gonna have a couple of bolts there. We're gonna use that seven millimeter socket, once again, to remove these. Head over to the other side and grab the other two out. And at this point now, I'm gonna go ahead and pull those off, just because there's a little hook clip there. It probably won't interfere with you pulling the fascia off. It'll probably slide right out of there, but we're right here, might as well pull that out to make sure we don't get caught up on that. Now, before we go peel the fascia off though, to make things a little easier on ourselves, we peel back the fender liner just a little bit here. We can see we've got some electrical connectors here for the fog lights, so we can go ahead and remove these. There's a lock tab on this upper one, so you have to push it back on the lock tab first. And it's pretty stiff, so it looks like we're going to need the screwdriver to- Oh, there it goes. So it just falls out of there, and then you can press on the release button and pull it out. There's the release button there, and your lock tab here just slides in behind it. This is actually still in the release position there. It does pull all the way out, but if you just get it back, it is unlocked. Our other one here, I actually find it easier if we just give this a little twist. In most cases, we can twist this and pull it out of here. It looks like we're gonna actually hit on a piece of plastic there, so we can not do that while the connector is connected. So, we're then gonna press in on the release tab and pull straight down. These tend to build up quite a bit of dirt and debris, so we're kinda jiggling it a little bit there to get some of that dirt and debris out of there, so we can pull out of there so it's not so difficult. We'll go over to the other side now and disconnect the fog light connectors on that side as well. To remove your fascia, we're gonna come in here at the corner where the front fascia meets our fender there, and peel back on the liner just a bit there to get our hand behind it. And we're just gonna be pulling outward to get this released just like that. And we're only gonna go to about this point here, and what I actually like to do is take one of the screws that we've removed here, and just put it in there, just a couple of turns, that way it'll hold this side up. If you've got an extra set of hands, one person can be holding the one side while you're doing the other. But if you're trying to do this all by yourself at home, and it is possible to do it all by yourself, you'll wanna just stick one of these guys up in here, or maybe on this outer one here. Either one is fine, just to have a little something to keep this up while we are releasing the other side. And that's really all we need, just a little something like that. So we'll head over to the other side. We'll release this the same way. Trying to get that, pop out of there, working our way towards the front. I'm using my body here too, to kinda keep it pressed in enough to make sure it's not gonna come off of there. We'll then get our self at the center, remove that bolt that we had temporarily stuck in there, and then we're just gonna walk it away, being careful to double check we don't have any connectors. We already got them all, it looks like, so we're good to go, and we'll set this aside where it won't get damaged. On our passenger side, we're gonna remove the air box here. There's a nut here and there's one kinda tucked in this opening right back here. So we're gonna move this harder to get to one first. Just zip that nut off of there. Looks like it's made onto the air box, so it's not gonna- Come off, well, this one came off. The other one's stuck onto there. It's probably just a little bit of the squish rubber holding it up to it. So we'll just slide that off of there, and then it's hooked into your air box up there, where your air filter goes, so we're just gonna gently work it out of there. And we're gonna get this nut here, it's probably, yeah, it was just stuck. So we'll set these aside. On the driver's side, we're gonna be removing this brace piece right here. There's two bolts we'll remove with a 15 millimeter socket. And if we look through the opening here, we can see that there's a bolt inside there, and it looks like there's also one down here as well. Those are gonna be a 10 millimeter socket. We're gonna get those zipped out of there. And then, this one goes next. Kinda work it around like that to get it removed. I'm gonna shake the bolts out of there and we'll set this aside as well. All right, now that we've got our fascia out of the way here, we do have to make quite a few modifications to our vehicle here in order for this base plate to fit. So I've gone ahead and marked out some areas here that we're gonna be trimming off, there's some areas on the other side that we're gonna have to trim, and we do have some more trimming after that as well. So we're going to use a reciprocating saw here to remove this. If you didn't want to have to do so much modifications to your vehicle, you might want to consider a base plate from Roadmaster, cause theirs will be a replacement of your bumper here, so there's quite a bit less modifications with that style. But we're gonna go ahead and continue here and get this one installed. And we're just gonna get this chopped right off of here. And the marks we made are pretty much flush with the the frame. That's kind of our end goal here, is to be flushed with the side of the frame. So, behind here, I need to take just a little bit more trimming off here just to get flush. You can take a file to it as well, if you don't wanna go back to the blade, if you've just got a little bit to take out of there. Again, that's our goal, is to just kind of make it smooth down with the side of the frame. And on the other side, the goal is the same. We wanna make it flush down with the side of the frame and we're gonna cut along to the bottom of our bumper beam. We'll now wanna remove the cooler if it's present on your vehicle. Some may not have it equipped. It is an optional item. If you do have it though, there's two bolts, you can see the clamps right there. We're gonna take out the bolt using a 10 millimeter socket. And our cooler's just, we're just gonna let it sit right there. And we'll also wanna pop off the temperature sensor that's right here. So we're just gonna get underneath of it, use a pair of needle-nose there just to kind of pop it up out of there. You can just let it hang right there. And then I did mark the area here, 'cause we have to trim this off. And we're just gonna use a razor knife to cut this out. Actually, for this top little tab there, we'll take a pair of snips to just trim that off of there to get that out of the way. All right, we got that trimmed out of there now. All right, we got a little more trimming we still have to do here on our plastic panel, each side, we need to trim off this excess. It's gonna be in the way of this base plate fitting. We're just gonna use some snips to cut this out of here. And we'll cut the other side out just like that as well. So now that we've got the plastic trimmed out, I just went ahead and lifted the base plate up in here, and I put some clamps on it, right here on each side, to hold it up. When I went in, I did kind of tilt it down like this, sliding these ears under and then rotated it back up to get them to slide up there on the side. I do recommend an extra set of hands to help you when putting this in here, especially if you're putting the clamps on. You can put it up here by yourself, but man, is it hard to get those clamps in place while you're holding the weight of this thing, 'cause it just wants to drop right down. I also, before I lifted it up there, if we take a look on the side here, there's a red mark there. I measured down from the top of the frame here, 1 1/8 of an inch, that's where the top of our base plate should line up if we've got it in the correct position. So I did the same thing on the other side, made that mark. We've double checked ourselves to make sure that our base plate is lining up with that mark on each side. And then I recommend too, just taking a step back from the front here and just making sure it's level across the front. If it all looks pretty good, it looks like we're pretty good here, we're ready to start drilling it out. We're gonna use a 13/32 drill bit to drill it out. We're gonna start at our top hole here, put a little bit of silicone spray in there to make it drill a little bit easier, and I'm just gonna drill straight on through. All right, so the next thing we're gonna be doing after we've got that hole drilled out is we need to feed our hardware in. Curt dropped the ball a bit here on this one though, because here's the bolt we need to feed in. You can see this bolt here does fit through the hole in our base plate here that we had drilled out, does fit right on through there, you know, it fits through any of these holes. It's supposed to thread under this coiled wire so we can pull it through, but this is not the right size that comes in your kit. It could just have been a mistake, but you can't even pass these through the base plate. So luckily here in the shop, we've got some fish wires laying around from other installs, but every single one of them was wrong in this kit. So we're just gonna set that aside. I do have one that we found here in the shop from previous installs, that is gonna be the correct size. It's kind of unfortunate, 'cause now we're gonna have to do this whole install with one fish wire, hope we don't damage it. It's nice when you've got enough for each bolt, 'cause sometimes they don't wanna unthread, but we're gonna get this done. If you wanna avoid this, I would recommend Roadmasters base plate, 'cause we don't even have to do all this drilling and all this nasty feeding throughout of your hardware, and I have a lot less quality issues with Roadmaster, pretty much every part's always there the way it's supposed to be. But we're gonna continue on with this guy and get this thing installed. So we're gonna take our fish wire here, we're gonna poke it through the opening, and then we need to angle it downward towards the square opening here on the bottom of the frame. And we're gonna try and angle this to reach that. Sometimes, you kind of have to almost, put some free bends in it to coerce it to go the direction you want it to go. So we're gonna do a little bit like that, 'cause it does have to go kind of towards the rear of the vehicle. And you can see here kind of how we're having to force this through, why it's really nice to have more than just one of these to work with if something happens to the one we got here. So here it is. I hope that worked. Putting a couple of bends in it. We we're able to get it to go towards this square opening here in the bottom, and get it to pull out there. We'll take our spacer, we're gonna slide our spacer over the coiled end, and this spacer may not be the exact correct size for this one. It's just one that I had happened to find here in the shop that's gonna be close enough for us to get this job completed. We'll then thread our bolt onto there. We're then just gonna push that spacer up into the frame. We'll then push the bolt up into the frame, and we can pull our coiled wire now to get it to pull out through our opening. And there we go, we got lucky there. We we're able to get it through. So after we get that on there, this is really why you really want to have all those spacers too, 'cause typically, you just pull this off. We've got a gingerly try to unthread this now without damaging it, so we can use it on the remaining holes. We'll now takes some red Loctite, put it on our bolt, and then thread one of the nuts on there. At this point now, we're gonna go over to the other side, we're gonna drill out that top hole so we can get a bolt on that side, so that way there's one on each side to hold our base plate up to ensure it can't move out of position, in case vibrations and stuff from drilling causes our clamps to come loose, we're gonna have these bolts in here. So we'll do that side first, after this one, to have one on each side, and then we're just gonna drill out the remaining ones and get these installed the same way that we did here. So we're just gonna continue on getting that done, trying to use our single fish wire here to make all this happen. All right, so we've run into another issue here. Again, it's hardware related. The bolt here goes through our spacer, everything's great. But the problem we're having here is that when you go to feed these through the frame, you can't pull them through. Here's our coiled wire. It don't fit, and it's even worse once you thread a bolt on it because once you thread a bolt on it like this, you've got the extra thickness of your threaded wire and it can't collapse in on itself like it could if you don't have a bolt in there. 'Cause I was able to push this through the spacer without the bolt on it. But every time I tried to feed it through the frame, I can barely get it to come through. And again, this is the only one we got, we don't wanna damage this, and if you do pull this and your fish wire comes off, and your bolt falls down into the frame, it can be very difficult to retrieve. So we're gonna modify the hardware here, just a smidge, to make this all work. This is one size up from the drill bit that we we're using, the 13/32, this one here is a 24/64. So we're gonna take that in here and just clean up all of the spaces. They're still gonna maintain their square shape, so they'll still hold our carriage bolt and prevent it from spinning when we go to tighten it down. But if we recheck it here now, look at that, there we go, we'll be able to feed these into the frame without any problems. So we've got a weld nut behind the frame that has to be removed in order to tighten down your hardware for this rear-most bolt here. You can't get to it, unfortunately. It would have been really cool if Curt would have just lowered that hole and used the weld nut in the frame, but we have to get that weld nut out of there now because spacer is gonna hit it, it's gonna cock the bolt sideways, we're gonna have a lot of unnecessary stress on that bolt if we leave it there, so it has to be changed. Your options are to remove your base plate completely and then drill out the weld nut, after you've got it all set up like this, which, that's a whole lot of extra time that we wanna try to avoid. So the other option is to just cut out a section of the frame here on the bottom. We just took a reciprocating blade and we just kind of cut it down like that and then just bent it down. So you can then put your chisel up in here and just pop that thing off of there and that's it. Looks like it popped off inside the frame there. We'll fish it out with a magnet, that's all we needed to do. We just needed to get that weld nut off of there. If you look up in here, you can see that we've now removed that weld nut. After we get the three fish wired all installed and everything, we also drilled out the bottom hole there as well in the pinch weld. This is gonna use different hardware though. It's gonna have a hex head bolt with a conical tooth washer. I'm gonna put the conical tooth washer on it with the teeth facing away from the head of the bolt so they dig into our hitch here. We're still gonna put some Loctite on this bolt and then this is just gonna slide through our base plate, through the pinch weld that we drilled through, and then we're just gonna put a nylon locking nut on the opposite side. There's a little gusset there, so you've gotta reach around it a little bit. So it's usually easier if you hold the nut and thread the bolt into it because of that, just kind of weird angle. We'll go ahead and get the other side started and then we can go back and tighten these down. And now we can snug down all of our hardware. We're gonna use a 9/16 socket, and you may need a wrench to hold the nut on the inside for these lower ones. And it may actually even be easier to use the socket on the nut and see. Yeah, because of the way the little gusset is on the bottom, it's actually gonna be easier to put your socket on the nut and then you can put your wrench on the bolt. And we're gonna do the same thing over on the other side. We can then go back and torque our hardware to the specifications outlined in our instructions. Next, we're gonna get our cooler reattached. In the instructions, they want you to mount these little brackets here, and they tell you to mount them behind the bumper, on top of where the old mounting location for it was, and then to mount the cooler up above your base plate. Well, that's not gonna work because one, the hoses aren't long enough to reach up that high, so the cooler's never gonna go up that high, and the base plate's in the way. So what we're gonna do to make this happen is we're gonna actually install it right here. So we're gonna be putting it, and have it down below in the front. And that way our hoses will reach and it'll be possible. We're gonna remove the clips that's in here because the factory bolts, they got pretty big wash, big heads on the bolts, so they're gonna hit your base plate. You're gonna have a real hard time installing those. You do get hardware with your kit, so it's nice that they give you that. So we're just gonna pop these off here and just pry down a little bit, and then you can push outward to just push that thing off of there. And we're gonna remove the one over on the other side also. Take the shorter bolts that come in your kit. I'm just gonna drop this down through the hole where we just removed that clip from. We can then take our bracket, might have to push that back up a little bit, just to get it lined up, and drop that down through there. We're gonna turn it sideways first, just so we can get the nut installed on it. And we'll get that nut started on there. There we go. We're going to get the one on the other side started, same way. We can then just bring our cooler back up here and we'll get that attached to our brackets here. So we're just gonna drop our bolts down through those. These are the same pieces of hardware we used to attach the brackets to the vehicle. We'll use those to attach our cooler to our brackets. Now that we've got all these pieces loosely installed, we can go back and tighten them down. We'll now tighten down our hardware using an 11 millimeter socket and wrench. We're gonna do the upper bolts first. Next thing we'll have to do is attach our permanent safety cables, and the way these things are supposed to work is you're supposed to wrap it around your frame here, and then attach it to the loop here on the bottom. You'll attach it to the loop 'cause you see the ends here are closed. So you'll attach it to this loop using the quick link that it comes with. Although, Curt didn't give us a big enough quick link. It doesn't open up far enough and it's not just the powder coating, 'cause I've got this open as far as it'll possibly go. I mean, you can see the nut is butting up against the curved portion, so it cannot unthread any further, and we're not even close. There's no way with this powder coating, it's just straight not gonna work. So we're gonna have to go order some of these. We're gonna bring them over here and we're gonna use some bigger ones that are gonna attach to our base plate to get these attached. Okay, so we got us another clip here. This one here's from Roadmaster. You can see it's considerably bigger, way more robust than the one we got from Curt, and it's gonna work with our base plate. The opening there is actually big enough for us to accomplish our goal. So, we'll take our cable now, and we're just gonna wrap this around the frame, and I'm putting my arm up here cause I'm making sure there's no wires, or hoses, or anything like that. I don't wanna pinch anything between this cable and the frames. So I'm going between the wiring there, making sure that we're staying with the frame. And just like that, we're just gonna wrap it right around, and then we can take our quick link here. I usually like to take it, if you can, you flip it over like that, just a little bit easier to get your quick link cable ends on there, if you have it in this direction like this. And we'll just tighten this back down and that'll attach our cable to this side. We'll just repeat this over on the other side now. We're not gonna put our air box back into place. It goes up through this opening and it plugs into there, and this is the end here. That will go up in there, so it's gonna go kind of like this. But we don't wanna put it up in there just yet. We need to put some spacers in place to clear our base plate. So we're gonna put those spacers on the studs that used to attach, or that our component was previously attached to, grab these spacers here, and all they are is just washers. We're gonna use three of these. They come in your kit. Slide three on one, slide three on the other. And then we can put our air box back into place now. And you've just kind of gotta rotate it, and it just rotates and falls right into place. Check your studs, there we go. Make sure it slides over each of those, and then we can re-install the nuts after that. All right, and at this point now, we've got our base plate fully installed. We've got all of our components hooked up that we need to. Everything's re-installed behind the fascia. At this time, I highly recommend that you finish the rest of your flat tow set up, and then get the fascia back into place. And I've already went ahead and did that here real quick. I went ahead and finished up the rest of the components the customer wanted. They didn't get a braking system on this one, but they did get diode wiring and a charge line kit. So I went ahead and installed those, 'cause you can see how much easier it is to route your wiring now than when your fascia's back on. It's gonna be quite a bit more difficult. I also added this bracket here to the front because Curt didn't provide any location for you to mount your connector here at the front of the vehicle. So what we're doing here to get this attached, we're using two long brackets, and we just attached the long bracket, one right here on the bottom side of our base plate, and then we bolted the other long bracket to that long bracket so it'll extend out far enough. We did have to drill holes to match those up. We just used the hardware that came included with the long brackets to extend it out. So, yeah, you gotta get a little creative on how you're gonna get your wiring mounted up with this Curt one here. If you go with the Blue Ox, that's gonna have the combinations on the base plate for your connectors, and Roadmaster also gives you a combination. So if you go with the Curt here, you are gonna have to make your own little bracketry. So now that we've got that on though, we'll go ahead and get our fascia re-installed. And to do that, we do have to do a little bit of trimming behind it. So let's head over to the fascia, and we'll make the trimmings that we need necessary on it, then we'll get it back into place. Before we re-install our fascia, we do need to make some modifications to the foam that we've got here. We're gonna trim out this section here. We're just gonna use a razor knife. I mean, it's foam, so you can even rip it if you want. But we can make it a little cleaner if we score it with our razor knife. We're just cutting down to there, and then we're gonna cut down this way. And we're just gonna rip that piece, we'll get the rest of it, so that way, it's smooth all the way down. Peel that off of there. We'll also need to trim off the tab located right here. So we're just gonna take our razor knife and we're gonna trim this tab, as well as this tab. We'll then repeat that over on the other side. And now, with an extra set of hands, we're gonna get our fascia back into place. If you did install diode wiring or anything like that, make sure you grab that wiring and just pull it through there a little bit, so you can access it later. We're then just gonna slide it into position. Double check our base plate here at the front. It looks like we need to come my way, oh no, your way. Assistant I'm okay over here. Up here. Maybe it is my way, 'cause we're way off centered. Assistant Yeah, mine is good. Mechanic Towards meAssistant Towards, towards . Yeah, right there. Okay, there we are. And we're just gonna be snapping these back into place. This is a very tight fascia, so just take your time and slowly work it into position. And with your fascia in place here, you can see where our components pass through. Then make sure to install your bolt, where it attaches your fascia to your fender here, and then also your fender liner attachments. And that completes our installation of Curt's base plate on our 2016 Chevrolet Equinox..


Customer Reviews

Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms - C53FR

Average Customer Rating:  4.0 out of 5 stars   (1 Customer Reviews)

This custom-fit base plate kit lets you hook up your tow bar to your vehicle. The main body remains hidden for a clean, unobtrusive look when your vehicle is not being towed. Simple, bolt-on installation with included hardware.

- C53FR
by:
2015 Chevrolet Equinox

haven't installed yet. received in quick timely manner. read the instructions, seems easy enough.


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Ask the Experts about this CURT Base Plates

  • Are Curt Base Plates For A 2010 Chevy Equinox Compatible With Blue Ox Tow Bars
    There are no adapters needed to use a Blue Ox tow bar with your Curt Custom Base Plate Kit # C53FR. They both use the same style of tabs for connection points so they'll both link up seamlessly. To flat tow your 2010 Chevy Equinox you'll also need a tow bar wiring kit, braking system, and safety cables. If you haven't purchased these already then I have the following recommendations for you: Braking System: The Brake Buddy Stealth # HM39530 you were looking at is a great choice and is...
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Info for this part was:

Employee Lindsey S
Edited by:
Lindsey S
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Kristina F
Written by:
Kristina F
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T

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