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Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Item # C38FR
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Product Expert Mike S

Is this right For you? Product Expert Mike S says:

Yes, if you:

  • Have a Curt or Blue Ox tow bar
  • Want a clean, seamless look when you’re not towing your car
  • Value the protection of a lifetime warranty

No, if you:

  • Own a tow bar that isn’t from Curt or Blue Ox and don’t want to have to buy an adapter separately
This custom-fit base plate kit lets you hook up your tow bar to your vehicle. The main body remains hidden for a clean, unobtrusive look when your vehicle is not being towed. Simple, bolt-on installation with included hardware. Call 800-298-1624 to order CURT base plates part number C38FR or order online at Free expert support on all CURT products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms. Base Plates reviews from real customers.
  • All Info
  • Reviews (9)
  • Q & A (0)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

CURT Base Plates - C38FR

  • Removable Drawbars
  • CURT
  • Twist Lock Attachment

This custom-fit base plate kit lets you hook up your tow bar to your vehicle. The main body remains hidden for a clean, unobtrusive look when your vehicle is not being towed. Simple, bolt-on installation with included hardware.


  • Custom-fit base plates provide attachment points for tow bar
  • Twist-lock tabs for easy installation and removal as needed
  • Concealed main body for OE look and seamless integration with the vehicle
  • Sturdy, dependable design
    • Spreads towing force evenly to minimize weight placed on suspension
    • Constructed of welded steel
  • Simple installation - no welding required
    • Bolts securely to your vehicle chassis
  • Physically tested to gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR)
  • Precisely welded for superior strength and fit
  • Protected by a durable high-gloss black powder coat finish
  • Co-cured in a rust-resistant liquid Bonderite coating
  • Includes base plate and installation hardware (tow bar sold separately)
  • Compatible with Curt and Blue Ox tow bars


  • Distance between brackets: 24"
  • Bracket height: 14-1/2"
  • Limited lifetime warranty

70102 Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Installation Details C38FR Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

Video of Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Curt Custom Base Plate Kit Installation - 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Hi, there Jeep owners stay in your 2017 Jeep Wrangler unlimited. We're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install a Curt's base plate. And this is what our base plate looks like when it's installed you will be able to see the entire cross tube and base plate underneath the bumper, But I actually liked the way it looks. It kind of adds an aggressive look to the front of your Jeep. It makes it like you're doing something special with this one. On each end that you're going to have your attachment point for your tabs, where you'll connect your tow bar, as well as the location for your safety cables to attach to, sounds like some of the other manufacturers they provide a minor location for your wiring and your breakaway switch for your braking system.

The Curt one here doesn't, you will have to provide your own, but we do have a no-drill brackets available here at E-trailer. And that's what we use right here. We often use these for hitches for getting the wiring mounted up in the back. It works out perfectly on Curt's base plate here, and sticks out in the front. Just almost like a front hitch and we can clamp it right on there without having to do any modifications to the base plate or our vehicle, And it gives us plenty of volume locations here.

When you're ready to use your base plate you'll insert the tabs. You simply slide into place and then twist it until it locks in. This will provide us with an attachment point. That'll connect to any Curt or blue ox tow bar. Now, if you have another brand such as Roadmaster we do have adapters available here at E-trailer.

So you can make those other manufacturers tow bars that work with this base plate as well. When you're ready to hook up your tow bar we'll bring the end over towards our base plate. The three lugs will mesh with our base plate. We can then take our pin here and we can slide it through and you can go whichever way you like. I usually prefer to go outside in, and then we'll secure it with the pin on the other side and hook up the other arm the same way.

You'll then want to hook your safety chains up. They snap right into your base plate. And then if you have any other components that you, is part of your flat tow set up, which most likely you will have you'll want to hook those up as well. And that typically includes your diode wiring and your supplemental braking systems breakaway cable now on your motor home side. When hooking up your safety cables you do want to make sure you cross them. You can see the cross that we've got here. So the driver's side on our Jeep connects to the passenger side on the motor home and vice versa for the other side. And that'll create a cradle here at the front. So in the event we had a catastrophic disconnect where our tow bar slid out of the receiver. This would keep it up off the pavement and keeping it from digging down in it we'll begin our installation at the front of our Jeep by removing the under shield here there are four pins across the front that we're going to need to remove to get it off, to remove these. You'll take a flat bladed screwdriver, and you'll see that there's an opening and there's notches around it. Slide your screwdriver blade in there. And then you can kind of just give it a little bit of a twist and then you can kind of pop it down. A trim panel tool will also work. And once you get the center popped out like that the whole pin will just pull out of there. We will repeat that to remove the remaining pins. Now in the backside of our under shield you're going to have some small pads that come up and there's another pin here on the passenger side. And there's one just like it on the driver's side. And we're going to remove these as well. And these are the same type of pins. So you'll remove it the same way. Upon removing that last pin, the panel will be free. So we can take this off and set it aside with that panel out of the way it's going to reveal the backside of our front bumper here. If you have fog lights, you want to make sure you disconnect the connectors that go to those. There's going to be one on each side. That's this connector here just press in on the release tab. And then you can just pull the connector away, to disconnect it. We'll just connect the other one on the other side as well just to the outside, where we disconnected our connector for our fog lights, we're going to have our bolts for our bumper that we're going to need to remove. You'll see that the studs where they come through here and here's the nut and there's one located right below it. And this is the frame rail right here just on the other side of the frame rail we're going to have two more studs and two more nuts on it, just like this. So that's four on this side and there's also four over on the other side, we're going to remove all of those with an 18 millimeter socket. You might need a swivel and an extension. If you're planning on using an impact. we're just going to get up on there, just to the outside of where we disconnect our fog light connector, We're going to have some studs where our bumper beam passes through with some nuts securing the bumper beam on. We will need to remove these nuts. There's one here, one just below it. And then this is the frame rail here, just on the other side of the frame rail, you're going to find two more of those. That's four on this side, and there's also four. On the other side we're gonna remove these nuts using an 18 millimeter socket. You'll likely need a swivel and an extension. If you're planning on using an impact gun after you remove the two nuts you're going to have a spacer plate behind it. You'll want to take that off. And then what I like to do is take one of these nuts and just thread it on there. Just about a turn. And then we're going to remove the rest of the nuts on this side and all the ones on the other side. We're just putting that on there for about a turn just in the bumper beam. Can't slide off on accident while we're removing the rest of the hardware. So we've got the rest of those nuts removed. I went ahead and removed that last one that we had put on there, hand tight. That was just our safety net. We can now just pull the facia away from the front of the vehicle. We're going to be going pretty much just straight out. The studs like to catch up on the little slots. You might have to jiggle it a little bit to get to release out of there. We can then just set this aside where it won't get damaged. We can now take our base plate, we are going to line it up into position. We'll need to temporarily secure it into place. You could use some clamps and clamp it in position. However you want to do it. We want to line up the hole here at the bottom of our base plate. On the side plate here, was the middle hole in the frame. The upper holes will line up with the frame here as it goes towards the rear. So instead of clamping it, since we're going to be feeding hardware in here momentarily I'm just going to stick a screwdriver in on one side and we're going to do the same thing over on the other side and that'll hold it up so we can get some of our hardware inserted. So we'll not take some of the hardware that comes in our kit that we're going to be feeding through those same holes. You'll have a large fish wire here and a large carriage roll. You're gonna have some smaller ones in the kit but we want the large ones. We also want to own larger spacer and make sure that your carriage bolt fits on there. These are going to feed through the openings that we slid our screwdriver in. So what we're going to do is we're just going to temporarily support this on this side. We're going to take our fish wire here. We're going to push it through the base plate and through the hole until it comes out the other side. And you can even take your screwdriver and temporarily put it back in there, if you wanted to. And then here on the other side we're going to grab our coil then, and our spacer, we'll first slide the spacer on and then we're going to take our carriage bolt here and we're going to thread it onto with the coiled end that make sure we got this hole lined up and then just pull our fish wire. And so our bolt comes out through the inside. We're going to go ahead and put some red Loctite on the end of the bolt and then secure it with a serrated flange nut. Once we get this side started, we're going to go ahead and get the other side installed as well. Cause we don't want to fully tighten it down just yet. So now that we've got our hardware loosely secured take your base plate and we're going to tip it up to make it level with the top of our frame. See how we've got it tended to straighten line there so that we've got that hardware secured and our base plate parallel with our frame here we can take a 1730 seconds drill bit and we're going to use our base plate here as a template. And we're going to drill right on him. we'll then repeat that for each remaining hole. Now that we've got our holes drilled out we can take the spacer block that comes in our kit. We're just going to slide that into position. That's just going to kind of rest right there between our base plate and our frame we'll then take the smaller coiled wire that comes in our kit. And this is going to poke through the opening in your base plate, through the hole that we just drilled. And then we're going to angle that towards the front of our Jeep. I also chose to go in the rear hole. I prefer that one first, because if you do the front one first and you're kind of fighting past that hardware when you're trying to route stuff through. we'll then just work our coiled wire down through the opening here at the front, the bottom one's a little bit bigger. So that'll be an easier one to use. Once you get that out we can take the spacer that comes in our kit. This is a smaller one. That's going to match our carriage bolt. And these are the smaller carriage bolts. We're going to thread it onto our coiled wire, feed each piece of hardware and individually and then we can pull it back through the openings until it comes back out and passes through our base plate. Once we get it pulled through you want to kind of twist it around in there a few times cause we want to make sure we get the carriage bolts all the way through the spacer block. Just like that. Once we've got that all the way through we can take our coiled wire off. I'm kind of putting some side pressure on the bolt to prevent it from falling back in the frame. We can put our lock tight on there and then follow that up with a cerated flange nut. And you can actually push on the spacer to kind of get that side pressure. Now we get that one started. We'll just repeat that for the remaining hole on this side and then do the same procedures over on the other side. We can now go back and tighten the hardware we just installed with a three quarter inch socket. Then once you have all your hardware tightened down we can go back and torque it to the specifications outlined in our instructions. We can then take the permanent safety cables that come included with our kit. And we're going to wrap this around the beam here across the middle and we're gonna slide our hook on the end there. We're also going to slide it onto our base plate there. And then we're going to bring the other end back around the frame, just like that, and then we can reattach this end onto the hook here as well. Once we have both ends hooked on, we can tighten down the quick link. and then we'll repeat this procedure on the other side as well. So now we've got our base plate fully installed and torqued down. We've got all of our safety cables and everything installed on there. We're ready to re-install our bumper and components in reverse order of how we removed them. There is going to be some trimming on the under shield a little bit but I highly recommend at this point to hold off on reinstalling those components and finish up the rest of your flat tow accessories that you might have which includes your diode wiring and your supplemental breaking system. A lot of those components are going to be easier to route all of your wiring up here in the front while you've got your bumper off. So we're gonna go ahead and complete the rest of those components. And once we've got those on we'll come back and show you how to trim out that lower shield on upon your re-installation. So now we've got all the rest of our flat tow components installed. We went ahead and put the bumper back on the reverse order of how we removed it. We talked about how the lower panel here needed to be trimmed in order to reinstall it. And you can see here where we've trimmed and you can find some markings in your instructions that will kind of indicate it. Although I found the best way it's just kind of holding this panel up here and then make your marks and then see if it's going to fit. I also put a hole here towards the center. That's going to be for all of our electrical connectors. It's just going to vary depending on where you decided to mount yours. I decided to mount my in there so we will just grab our panel now, and reinstall it, You're going to have to kind of rotate around the base plate like that. And then once you've got it rotated around I find it easier if you installed the back pins first cause those one on each side, we'll hold it up making it easier to install the rest of your pins. Just slide our pin in push in the center in to lock it in place. And then we'll do that for all the remaining pins. Now we'll insert all of our pins across the front as well. And that completes our installation of CURT's base plate on our 2017 Jeep Wrangler unlimited..

Customer Reviews

Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms - C38FR

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (9 Customer Reviews)

This custom-fit base plate kit lets you hook up your tow bar to your vehicle. The main body remains hidden for a clean, unobtrusive look when your vehicle is not being towed. Simple, bolt-on installation with included hardware.

- C38FR

Easy install with great instructions! Looks great! Everything was included. The fish wires helped a lot!

- C38FR

This was a quick install on my 2011 Wrangler Rubicon. Contrary to the Q&A advice that the c38FR (Curt 70102) base plate does not fit the Rubicon with the base stock Rubicon bumper, it indeed does fit. The base plate tucks up within an inch or so of the bottom of the bumper. Base plate C33FR (Curt 70110) recommended by eTrailer and Curt for the stock Wrangler Rubicon would hang down 4 inches below the bumper and would not be a great look!

- C38FR

Halley did a great job helping me !

- C38FR

Product came well packaged. Installation took about an hour doing it almost entirely by myself. Instructions were easy to follow. This is mated with the Curt Rambler tow bar.

- C38FR

- C38FR


- C38FR


- C38FR

- C38FR


Ask the Experts about this CURT Base Plates

  • Correct Curt Base Plate Kit for a 2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
    The correct Curt Custom Base Plate Kit for a 2011 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon is part # C33FR, not part # C38FR which is for other models with the standard factory bumper.
    view full answer...
  • Is There a Curt Base Plate Kit that Fits 2013 Jeep Wrangler with Aftermarket Bumper
    The Curt base plate kit part # C33FR was designed for aftermarket bumpers whereas the part # C38FR was designed for factory bumpers so the # C33FR would be the kit to use with an aftermarket bumper like the Smittybilt you mentioned.
    view full answer...
  • Which Baseplate Require The Least Amount Of Fascia Trimming
    Looking at the compatible baseplates for your vehicle it looks like the two best options are the Demco Tabless Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms Item # DM9519292 and the Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms Item # C38FR. The Demco Baseplate will be a 4" x 2" horizontal cut and the Curt Baseplate will a 4" x 2" vertical cut. I recommend the Demco Baseplate # DM9519292 because the horizontal cut will be less noticeable when the baseplate is removed.
    view full answer...
  • Demco Tabless Base Plate Kit for 2012 Wrangler
    The Curt Custom Base Plate Kit, # C38FR is a confirmed fit to your 2012 Jeep Wrangler but it does not appear that your older style Demco ExcaliBar tow bar will mate to it without purchasing additional adapters. And yes the bumper will need to be removed for installation. I suggest you go with a matching brand base plate to your already existing tow bar, such as the Demco Tabless Base Plate Kit, # DM9519292.
    view full answer...
  • Curt Base Plate for 2008 Jeep Wrangler JK With Aftermarket Bumper
    Since you have an aftermarket bumper, the correct Curt base plate for your 2008 Jeep Wrangler JK that is a verified fit is the following: - Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms # C33FR The the other base plate you mentioned is designed for standard factory bumpers, and since you are getting a lift, what you will need is simply a high-low adapter, depending on the amount of drop you need. For example, if your Jeep was quite a bit higher and you needed a 10 inch drop you would use...
    view full answer...
  • Base Plate Kit For Falcon 2 Tow Bar RM-520 When Used On 2018 Jeep JK Wrangler
    The Roadmaster Falcon 2 Tow Bar # RM-520 is compatible with the Curt Base Plate Kit # C38FR. You will, however, need to use adapters - Roadmaster # RM-031. This adapter kit will enable the falcon 2 tow bar to safely connect to the Curt base plate. You will also need safety cables, wiring kit, and a braking system. If you do not already have these, I recommend # RM-643 safety cables, # RM-15267 wiring, and # BRK2019 braking system. I have included demonstration/installation videos for these...
    view full answer...

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Info for this part was:

Employee Lindsey S
Edited by:
Lindsey S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B
Employee Mike S
Updated by:
Mike S
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Kristina F
Written by:
Kristina F

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