Firestone Dual Air Command III - Dual-Gauge w/ Super-Heavy-Duty Compressor and 1-Gallon Tank

Firestone Dual Air Command III - Dual-Gauge w/ Super-Heavy-Duty Compressor and 1-Gallon Tank

Item # F2198

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Air Suspension Compressor Kit

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F2198 - 150 psi Firestone Wired Control
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In Use/Installed

  • Firestone
  • Dual Path
  • Wired Control
  • 150 psi
  • Analog Display
Perfect for tow trucks, off-road applications and motor homes, this pneumatic control mounts in cab to level two air springs independently or two pairs equally. Kit includes a super-heavy-duty compressor and a 1-gallon air tank. Call 800-298-8924 to order Firestone air suspension compressor kit part number F2198 or order online at Free expert support on all Firestone products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Firestone Dual Air Command III - Dual-Gauge w/ Super-Heavy-Duty Compressor and 1-Gallon Tank. Air Suspension Compressor Kit reviews from real customers.

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  • Videos (1)
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Firestone Air Suspension Compressor Kit - F2198

Perfect for tow trucks, off-road applications and motor homes, this pneumatic control mounts in cab to level two air springs independently or two pairs equally. Kit includes a super-heavy-duty compressor and a 1-gallon air tank.


  • Air spring pressure control kit with pneumatic, dual-gauge control
    • Allows you to manually control air pressure levels from vehicle cab
      • Operates air bags with dual switches
        • Push switches up to inflate air springs
        • Push switches down to deflate air springs
  • Pneumatic, dual-gauge control panel with white face
    • Mounts under dashboard in vehicle cab
  • Pneumatic system levels 2 air springs side to side, individually, or 2 pairs of springs front to back, equally
    • Works great on tow trucks, off-road applications or motor homes
    • Accommodates varying load capacities, road and parking conditions
  • The kit includes everything you need to control air springs
    • Super heavy-duty air compressor with 150 max psi
    • 1-Gallon air reservoir for faster inflation of air springs
      • Includes (2) 1/4" NPT valves
    • Inflation hose for emergency tire inflation - 25'


  • Application: All Firestone air spring products
  • Compressor amperage: 18 amps
  • Cu ft/min at 60 psi: 0.77
  • Cu ft/min at 100 psi: 0.62
  • Air tank dimensions: 12" long x 6" diameter
  • 2-Year limited warranty

WR17602198 Firestone Dual Air Command III - In-Cab, Dual-Gauge, Pneumatic, Super-Heavy-Duty Compressor, 1-Gallon Tank

Video of Firestone Dual Air Command III - Dual-Gauge w/ Super-Heavy-Duty Compressor and 1-Gallon Tank

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Firestone Dual Air Command Installation - 2005 Chevrolet Silverado

Today on our 2005 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD we'll be installing the Firestone Dual Air Command III Gauge and Heavy Duty Compressor with a one gallon tank, part number F2198. We'll be adding this to our already pre-existing installed Firestone Ride-Right Air Helper Spring System, part number F2250. Now once the compressor has caught up and filled up the tank and system we'll go ahead and check the operation of our new gauge system. By moving the switch up, it will air up the driver's side here. The orange arrow will indicate the pressure for the driver's side airbag. To repeat the same process with the passenger side, you simply push up on the right switch. With our setup, the compressor will work at all times so that we can use the manual valve at the back of the vehicle, however the gauge light will only be illuminated with the ignition on. Next we'll go and show you how to use the new manual valve and supply hose. We'll take the end of our supply hose, put it over the manual valve and lock it down. Then we'll take the chuck end so we can use it to air up things, such as a bike tire. All right.

Then once we're finished filling up our tire to remove the hose from the manual valve, we'll simply open up the lever, remove it and we're ready to hit the road. Now to prep the gauge assembly we're going to install 2, 3 1/2 inch pieces of air line into the back of the gauge switch of the end port. There's one for each switch. When cutting our air line, we're going to use out Firestone tubing cutter, part number F9009. This will allow us to get a clean, square cut on our line. Go ahead and measure it out, approximately 3 1/2 inches and cut the line. Once we cut the line we'll then go ahead and install it in the back of the switch by taking the line and firmly pressing it into place and then pulling out to lock it in position.

We'll repeat the same process for our other switch. We'll go ahead and set our gauge assembly aside now as it's prepared to install. Next we'll take the steel braided line that comes from our compressor, quick tech tip because these threads don't have any sealant on it, we're going to add our own by adding some thread paste. Then we'll add our quick connect fitting on one side, threaded fitting on the other. Then we'll go ahead and tighten it down. To make our install a little easier, we're going to be using a Firestone no-drill mounting kit for our compressor. We'll go ahead and assemble the bracket and mounting kit and attach the compressor to the bracket. The no-drill mounting bracket will need to be purchased separately, part number F2530.

To assemble our bracket we have two sides, each with a stud pressed into them that will match the pre-drilled holes in the mounting plate. Once we line them up and install the locking nut provided, well tighten it down. We'll repeat this same process for both sides of our bracket. Now we'll line the compressor up with the pre-drilled holes here in the mounting plate and use our compressor hardware which will be a bolt and flat washer that will go through the bottom of the mounting plate, through the compressor and get secured on top with another flat washer and then a nut. We'll go ahead and install all four attachment points and then tighten them down. You'll note that on the electrical end of our compressor, our hardware is real tight to fit through the bracket, through the compressor bracket, into our mounting bracket. It may be necessary to turn the bolt and washer over, feeding them through the top, installing a flat washer and nut on the bottom. Note, in some situations when we bolt down our bracket it may be necessary to cut off the end of the bolt that stuck through for the one fastener that we had to turn over.

Our compressor is now assembled and ready to be installed. We're going to go ahead and set it aside for now and prep the install of our air tank. Next we'll take our air tank, remove the plastic caps that are covering up the open ports. We'll have two here on this side and one on the other. Here on the single fitting side we're going to be installing one of our connection ends. This will be for the hose side. This threaded side will go into the tank. You'll notice it's got pre-installed sealant on the threads. We'll make sure that those threads come in contact with the threads here in the tank to assist in sealing up our fitting. Be careful not to over tighten it. We'll go ahead and repeat the same process here on the other side. Our third fitting will be the pressure switch. We'll go ahead and leave the protective cap on for now. Again it has the pre-installed sealant on the threads. Here on the inside of the frame is a perfect location. To make room for our compressor we're going to need to relocate the brake line that runs above the frame. We'll then slip it outside of the holders so we can get it up out of the way for now. To assist in getting the line up out of the way, we're just going to slide a block of wood between the frame and the line. Now we're ready to start installing. We're going to begin with the air tank. The air tank has two attachment points in the bracket that already has pre-drilled holes here. Here in the side of the frame where we'll be mounting the tank there are two holes already in the frame. If we line the lower attachment point up we'll see that the holes don't exactly match up, so we can take a paint marker, mark the hole from the inside and then drill it out on the tank bracket so that we can secure our tank to the frame. Now as we take the tank down we can see where we need to drill out for our second attachment point. Using a step bit process, we're going to start with a smaller pilot bit and then work our way up to the final size. We use the bolt, flat washer and lock nut provided to secure our tank to the frame. Our bolt will go through the attachment point on the tank and then through the frame both. Then we'll install the flat washer and nut. Put both fasteners in place and then tighten them down. Now that the main components are prepped and ready to be installed we're going to start with the air compressor. When mounting the air compressor, choosing a location can be especially important. We're looking for a location that will help keep the compressor away from any road debris or inclement weather. Here on the inside of the frame is a perfect location. The frame we're going to use the U bolts provided with our install kit. Go ahead and slide the U bolts into place first. As we put the U bolt in position, we'll make sure that we don't sandwich anything between the U bolt and the frame. Once we have the U bolts in place, we'll go ahead and install the locking nut to secure them. We'll install each fastener finger-tight and then run them down. As we run them down, we'll make sure we run down our fasteners evenly securing the U bolts. Our next step will be removing the old air lines that route to the airbags and manual inflation valves. The reason we'll be removing them is because with the dual switch we're going to run individual lines from the airbags all the way into the cab and ultimately the bags will be individually aired up by the switches. To remove the air line we're going to go ahead and cut all the zip ties and remove the lines from the valves and T. To remove the lines from the valves or T, you'll need to slide the collar here towards the valve or T and pull the line out. To assist, I'm going to use a wrench, help slide the collar up and pull the line out. Now we'll go ahead and repeat the same process with the lines that run to the bags. We've taken our air line from our install kit and run it down the vehicle frame and ultimately to the two airbags. We'll follow the frame channel and then come out of the frame for the passenger side, route up through the hat channel of our pickup bed and over to the passenger side. Then the driver's side simply comes out of the frame and routes down to the airbag. The other end of our line is going to get routed up through the engine compartment, through the firewall and into the cabin of the vehicle. Before I do that, I want to mark the line just using some of the packing tape so that we know which side is passenger and driver. Now with the passenger side routed and installed, we'll go ahead and repeat the same process with the driver's side. We've got the line routed through the frame channel, we'll now go ahead and take the end, install it into the inflation valve by putting it into the valve, firmly pressing it into place, pulling back to lock it in position. I'll now go ahead and secure the lines as I work my way back forward, route the lines through the engine compartment, through the firewall and into the cabin of the vehicle. Once we secure our lines with a zip tie, we'll go ahead and cut off the excess from the zip tie to clean up the install look. Quick tech tip: if you don't have a line protector to protect your air line where it passes through the sheet metal and can potentially rub to create a hole, you can use a piece of wire loom. This is a piece of quarter inch wire loom, about four inches long that will just slide over the air line, slide it into position to protect the air line as it passes through the sheet metal. We'll be using the Spectro wire loom, part number 459075-1. Now once we've pulled the air lines up through the engine compartment, along the firewall, we'll then take them and feed them through manufacturers grommet that's already been displaced previously. With both hoses routed into the cab of the vehicle we'll go ahead and take the side that we routed for the driver's side airbag which will have the most length left over, make sure we leave enough length for routing inside the cabin and cut off the excess. Next we'll need to add a piece of line that will be long enough to go from our braided steel line from the compressor to the inlet on the tank. To do that we'll go ahead and take apiece of our red airline, cut off the end to make sure it's nice and square, feed the end into the quick fitting, firmly pressing it in place and then pulling back to lock it into position. Before we route it up over the frame to the tank we'll remove the wood block that we installed earlier, putting our brake line back into position. Now we'll move to the outside of the frame where we can run the airline to the inlet fitting of the air tank. Mark it and then cut off the excess that won't be needed. Once again, to install the line we'll press it firmly into place pulling back to lock it in position. We'll take the piece that we cut off of the long line of hose that we ran in the cabin of the vehicle and go from the other port from our air tank, down the frame rail and ultimately to the back of our gauge and switches. Once we've installed the line we'll feed it over the frame and follow the lines that we already ran from the airbags into the cabin. With the line that comes out of the air tank will also be the line that will supply the air that will go to our manual inflation valve. By putting our T in an accessible location, it will allow us to route the manual inflation line pretty much anywhere on the vehicle. Once we cut the line, we'll then go ahead and take the T and put it in place. Then we can continue running our line that will go into the cabin of the vehicle, following the two previous lines we already ran going from the airbags into the cabin. To avoid any confusion, we can also mark the line before we route it into the cab. Next we're going to start installing the wiring. We'll take the black wire from our compressor with the pre-attached ring terminal. This is the ground for the compressor and we'll take it directly to the frame. To secure it the frame, we're just going to use a self tapping screw. Next we'll take the red power wire, feed it over the frame, into the tank. We'll take the power wire, connect it directly to the switch. Next we'll take the spade connector and power wire that was provided with the install kit and install the spade connector onto the wire. To do that we'll strip back the wire, add the connector and crimp it down. Once we have that secured, we can take the connector and plug it to the power feed to the other side of the pressure sensor. Now we'll go ahead and take our wire and follow the airlines up into the engine compartment. Now to assist us in routing the power wire up through the engine compartment, we're going to use a pull wire. A pull wire can be a stiff piece of wire or in this case, I'm using a piece of old air tubing. Route the air tubing up the firewall to the top of the engine compartment following our previous airlines. Take the other end, feed the power wire into it and secure it with some black electrical tape. We'll then go ahead and pull our pull wire up through the engine compartment. Now once we have our power wire routed in to the engine compartment where we can gain access to it, we'll go ahead and remove it form the pull wire. Now that we've got the power wire route and into the engine compartment, we're going to go ahead and leave it for now. We don't want to hook it up until we've got all our connections made. Because this vehicle had previously installed airbags and a manual valve, we're going to reuse it for our application. The manual valve is simply the valve, a flat washer that goes through a 5/16 hole, we'll get a second flat washer and then a nut to secure it. Like our other connectors, the airline will go into the back. We'll go ahead and take a piece of our air line and start routing it now. It's going to go from the manual valve to the T we installed in our air line just in front of the compressor. Let's go ahead and start routing the line first. We're going to follow the manufacturers wiring and/or down the frame channel and our previous lines. Keep in mind when routing any of your airlines or wiring to stay away from any moving components such as steering or suspension or excessive heat such as the exhaust. Once I've got the line routed to the T, I can go ahead and plug it in. Cut off any excess from the air line and plug it into the manual valve. Now here underneath the vehicle we've completed installing our air lines and running our electrical wiring, so we'll go ahead and secure everything as necessary. Next we're going to install the air fittings and line for the air filter to the compressor. We'll remove the plug that's in the compressor first and install the threaded fitting. We'll install it and tighten it down being careful not to over-tighten it. There's a second fitting and it's going to go into the back of the air filter. Again, be careful not to over-tighten it. Over here between the fuel tank, inside the frame channel will be a good location, so we'll need enough line to go from here to the compressor. Now you'll notice that the hose will push onto the barbed fitting and then we'll route it inside the frame channel following our previous lines to the fitting we installed in the compressor. Once we get it routed to the compressor, we'll go ahead and cut off the excess of the line. Now to make it easier to fit the line, over top of the barbed fitting we can simply take it and put it in some hot water for three to five minutes. This will help soften the line a little bit and make it easier to push onto the fitting. Next we'll move into the interior of the vehicle where we're going to mount our gauge assembly. The gauge assembly's going to mount to the metal lip just below the dash here on the driver's side. Once we get the gauge in position we'll use our paint marker to mark out the attachment points. Then we can remove the gauge assembly and drill out the attachment points. Now that we've got our attachment points set up, we're going to go ahead and start making our connections before we secure the gauge to the dash. The two inlet connections will be joined by a T and then the supplied air line that we've already run into the cabin of the vehicle. Let's go ahead and install our T now. Now with our tank line, or supply line, we route over to the area where we'll be mounting our gauge and then we'll cut off any excess. We don't have much excess here, so we just have to make sure we have a clean, square cut on the line and then install it into the T here at the compressor. Next we'll repeat the same process with our driver and passenger side air lines. Now before attempting to install the hoses onto the barbed fitting of the gauge, we'll go ahead and soak them in water for three to five minutes, until the line becomes soft enough that we can push it up over the barbed fitting. Go ahead and wipe any excess water off the lines and then install them onto the barbed fittings. Next we'll need to add the extra length of wire to two wires for the gauge light. We'll strip back the gauge wires, add a butt connector to each and then add some wire to the butt connectors. Now because of the design of the light socket, it doesn't matter which wire is power or which wire is ground. They're interchangeable. We'll use an extra length of white wire as our ground and red wire for power. Now once I've made my connections points, I go ahead and wrap them each up with some black electrical tape. This will help keep the connection point clean from dirt, dust, debris or moisture. Now with all our gauge connection points made, we're ready to go ahead and install the hardware to secure it to our attachment points that we pre-drilled earlier. We'll hook the bolt through the gauge mount then up through our pre-drilled hole where we'll secure it with a nut. All right. Now that we've got our fasteners in place for the gauge assembly we'll go ahead and tighten them down. Now that our gauge assembly is mounted and secured, we'll need to secure the air lines underneath the dash to keep them away from the moving components such as the brake pedal or the steering column as it goes through the dash. Quick tech tip: when routing and securing your air lines, try to avoid putting them into a tight bind before they go into a fitting, coupling or connection point. Once we have the air lines secure, we'll then take our power and ground wire for our gauge light and start routing it across the dash, over towards the driver's side fuse panel. The fuse panel is located on the side of the dash on the driver's side, between the door and the dash panel. Now with our wires run over here we'll go ahead and remove the fuse panel cover. Our white wire that we're running for ground, we'll strip back the wire, add a ring terminal and secure it here to the body or sheet metal of the vehicle. Go ahead and cut off the excess from the wire, strip it back, we'll add a ring terminal. Now using a self-threading screw we'll go ahead and secure the ring terminal to the vehicle. Next you'll need to locate an ignition or running light circuit to attach your power wire to. For our application there's an ignition source which is a blue 15 amp fuse. Using our fuse puller, go ahead and remove the fuse for now. To connect our power wire we're going to use a fuse tap. The fuse tap will create two power connections out of one fuse port. The fuse tap will replace the fuse that we just removed from the fuse panel and the fuse that we removed will go in position number one here, reconnecting that circuit. For the gauge light we're going to install a 10 amp fuse in position two and we'll connect it to the pigtail. To connect it to the pigtail we'll run it up into the fuse box. We'll go ahead and cut off the excess and secure it the butt connector. Once we make our connection we'll go ahead and re-install the fuse tap into the fuse port. Then we put our fuse panel back on. We're ready to move to the engine compartment. We're going to go ahead and continue routing the power wire we ran from our compressor and switch earlier. Here we're going to install an inline fuse holder supplied with the install kit. The inline fuse holder works like this. We'll take the power wire, cut it and install the fuse holder. One side will get the cut piece of wire fed through and into position. We'll close that side of the fuse holder then we'll take the piece that we just cut off and feed it into the other side, separating the two wires by the fuse holder. We're going to route our length of wire down into the battery connection point. We'll cut off the excess wire, strip it back and add a large ring terminal. Once we have the ring terminal secured, we can now go ahead and remove the nut on the stud, we'll install our ring terminal and then re-secure the nut. Once we have our ring terminal installed and the nut re-secured, we can go ahead and close the cover. We'll finish securing our power wire. Now with the wire secured we'll go ahead and cut off the excess from the zip ties and clean up the install look. We'll install our 30 amp fuse into the fuse holder. As soon as we connect power to our circuit we can hear our compressor running to fill up our system. That does it for the install of the Firestone Dual Air Command III part number F2198. In conjunction with the Firestone Ride-Right Air Helper Springs that we're previously installed, part number F2250 for our 2005 Chevy Silverado. .


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