1. Air Suspension Compressor Kit
  2. Air Lift
  3. Wired Control
  4. Dual Path
  5. Analog Display
Air Lift Load Controller I Compressor System for Air Helper Springs - Dual Path

Air Lift Load Controller I Compressor System for Air Helper Springs - Dual Path

Item # AL25651
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Air Suspension Compressor Kit
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Air Lift Air Suspension Compressor Kit - AL25651
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Designed for heavy-duty or commercial vehicles, this quiet, virtually vibration-free compressor system comes with an in-cab, dual-path controller, allowing you to monitor and adjust the air pressure of 2 springs independently for better control. Call 800-298-8924 to order Air Lift air suspension compressor kit part number AL25651 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Air Lift products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Air Lift Load Controller I Compressor System for Air Helper Springs - Dual Path. Air Suspension Compressor Kit reviews from real customers.
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Air Lift Air Suspension Compressor Kit - AL25651

  • Air Lift
  • Wired Control
  • Dual Path
  • Analog Display

Designed for heavy-duty or commercial vehicles, this quiet, virtually vibration-free compressor system comes with an in-cab, dual-path controller, allowing you to monitor and adjust the air pressure of 2 springs independently for better control.


  • Allows you to monitor and automatically adjust your air spring pressure as needed to ensure safety and appropriate support
  • Lets you adjust 2 air springs independently with a dual-path, in-cab controller and gauge
    • Level your vehicle front to back
    • Get side-to-side leveling of off-center loads by inflating each spring with a different amount of air
  • Boasts quiet, high-volume airflow for virtually vibration-free operation
  • Performs well for heavy-duty or commercial applications
  • Works with any brand of air springs
  • Includes wiring harness for fast, easy installation


  • Control panel dimensions: 5-1/2" wide x 2-3/4" long x 2-3/4" tall
  • Compressor duty cycle: 3 minutes on, 20 minutes off
  • 60-Day money-back guarantee
  • 2-Year limited warranty

Now you can see how much air is in your helper springs and fill them up from the comfort of your cab. Being able to always monitor your air spring pressure will help combat the leading cause of air spring failure - low air pressure. The in-cab gauge of the Load Controller I system tells you when your air spring pressure falls below minimum levels so you will know when to add more air.

Load Controller I is designed for the big boys. It has virtually vibration-free operation and is made to help support your air bags as they take on weighty loads. The dual-path controller lets you adjust two air springs independently of each other for better control. So aside from leveling your vehicle front to back, you can also level it side to side by putting a different amount of air into each spring. This allows you to even out an off-center load in your truck bed or cargo area. A toggle switch on the controller's dash panel lets you inflate and deflate springs as needed. And a gauge provides detailed monitoring of your air pressure.

Alternatively, you can use the Load Controller I to adjust and monitor two pairs of air springs independently. Using this configuration, you can put different amounts of air into your front pair and rear pair of springs, allowing you to level your vehicle front to back. Or you can purchase an add-on dual-path gauge panel (AL25802; sold separately) to monitor and adjust four air springs individually.

Air Lift kits are designed to keep your vehicle at normal ride height. You can find the normal ride height of your vehicle by unloading it and measuring the distance between the bottom edge of your wheel well and the center of the hub. After you find and record this distance, you can regulate the amount of air that you send to your air springs to maintain normal ride height - even when you are hauling a heavy load. You will need to adjust the air pressure in your air bags according to the size of your load.

25651 Airlift Load Controller 1 Air Compressor System for Air Bag Suspension Support - Dual-Route Control

Installation Details AL25651 Installation instructions

California residents: click here

Video of Air Lift Load Controller I Compressor System for Air Helper Springs - Dual Path

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Air Lift Load Controller I Compressor System Installation - 2004 Chevrolet Silverado

Today on our 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500, we're going to be taking a look at and installing the Air Lift Load Controller I Compressor System for Air Helper Springs. It has a duel path system. Part number AL25651. This is what it looks like once it's installed on the vehicle. As you can see, you've got the compressor here, the solenoids and what these solenoids do is allow you to operate and inflate one airbag at a time. The passenger or the driver side airbag. It also allows you to do that wit the switch that's on the controller up in the cab, which we'll show you in a minute.

You have all the wiring and the hoses here and you have the hose that runs out for both the passenger and the drivers side airbag. Those T into the existing air lines so that you can still have manual inflation, if necessary if this would fail for some reason or you need to do it otherwise. Being that it allows you to operate each airbag individually, by wither inflating or deflating, it allows you that really good control to be able to set your air bags for exactly what you need to control the load that you have. It's designed to be very efficient and give you a lot of performance, but it also is supposed to minimize vibrations, so you shouldn't have a problem with it being too loud or vibrating too much. Here we have the gauge with controller here. You've got the gauge with two needles inside, one for the drivers side and one for the passenger side. That way you can keep an eye on both of them to see where they're at.

Here we have the toggle switch that if you push it down on the drivers side, it'll raise the pressure in the drivers side airbag and if you push down to the passenger side, it'll operate the compressor to raise the air pressure in the passenger side airbag. These right here are little bleeder valves, so if you want to lower the pressure in either air bag you can press that in and it'll drop the pressure. Same for either side. We also have a gauge that illuminates and the way this is set up in this one is if you turn the headlights on the light in the gauge comes on but when the headlights are off that light is off. Here we've got everything that's going to come with our kit. We have our compressor, we have our driver and passenger side solenoids, we have our gauges with controls that'll be inside the cab. Here we've got the air line provided with the kit, the primary wiring harness.

In here we have zip ties and other air fittings. Here we have another wiring harness for the compressor itself. Right here we have the air breather filter for the air that's going to be going into the compressor to help keep it clean and prolong the life of that compressor. We have the four screws that'll mount the compressor up wherever we decide to mount that. Here we have extra filter pads for our air breather filter. Let's go ahead and show you how to install it. To begin our install we'll need to take our compressor and we'll have to figure out where we want to mount it and once we've found where we mount it then we'll need to get ready to drill the holes.

Right here on the inside of the frame rail is where I've decided that I want to mount this one. Part of the reason why I want to do it on the inside of the frame rail is that that's going to help against water and the elements splashing up and hitting it so that I've got as little of this compressor exposed as possible to help provide a nice long life for it. Now that I've got my spot that I want to mount it, I'm just going to take a drill bit, go in the holes just to mark where I'm going to mount it so I can go back and drill those holes out. I'll do that on all four. Once I've got all four marked I can begin to use my 1/8" drill bit to drill out the pilot holes. I'll do that on the other three. Once we've got our pilot holes drilled, we're going to drill these out and I'm going to use about a 3/16" bit to get them a little bit bigger and then I'll get them out to just shy of 1/4". I'm going to use a 7/32" drill bit to make these holes just a little bit bigger. With all four holes drilled out to 7/32" we can take our 3/16" bolt with Philips head and with one flat washer on it we can feed them all through. Once we have them through we can take one of the flat washers that came on it followed by a little star ring washer and then the 5/16" nut and get that started. We can do that on all four and then we'll be ready to tighten them up. We can take our 5/16" wrench, put it on the nut on the outside and we can use a Philips head bit and tighten that down so it's nice and tight. It doesn't need to be really tight but you want to make sure it's nice and secure. We'll do that on all four of them. The next thing we need to do once our compressor is mounted up is find a good spot to mount our two solenoids which are for the driver and passenger side airbags. You can see they're labeled D and P for driver and passenger. On this one I'm going to mount them up by these two mounting holes up top and I'm just going to mount it to this top edge of the inside frame rail. I'm going to find the location that I want, and then again I'll use my drill bit and I'll be able to drill those out using this 1/8" drill bit and then I'll have to go to the next size, a little bit bigger in order to be able to bolt it into place. We'll do that for both holes. I have my two 1/8" pilot holes drilled out and at this point with the kit they give you self tapping screws that you could mount those solenoids up with on that bracket. I just want to give myself a little bit of extra security so I'm going to drill these holes out just a little bit bigger in order to get a nut and bolt through there. I can put my little bolts through with washers on them. I can put bolts on the backside with washers then we can tighten those up. We'll do that on both of them. Right here in the frame I'm going to drill one more 1/8" hole in order to ground the compressor and both solenoids. Now that I've got that pilot hole drilled out I'll take the ring terminal, that's the ground, coming off the solenoids here and also the ring terminal, that's the ground, for the compressor and get them wind up and going use one of the supplied self tapping screws. We'll take one of our zip ties and use it to help secure the excess ground wire so it doesn't go bouncing around and rub through somewhere. In order to go from our compressor to our solenoids we're going to need about 3' worth of air hose. They don't have to be put that far apart but that's going to be about how much you need. We use a tubing cutter, if you don't have one you can pick one up on our site, that's part number AL10530. We'll use that in order to get ourselves a clean cut on the end. We need to install this fitting into our steel braided hose coming off of the compressor. As you can see it has some thread sealant on it so you want to make sure that that gets engaged into it. I'm going to use a 9/16" wrench and an 11/16". You don't have to get it all the way in there, but you want to get it far enough in that you make sure that that thread sealant engages. What we'll be able to do, we'll be able to put this wherever we'd like this and then we can run our 3' of airline between them. I'm going to feed this around here in order to help prevent any hard curves in our airline. We'll take that in order to put it in, see it, and then once you've met resistance you're going to need to push it in a little bit further and you'll feel it kind of click down into place. It should be secure in there. We'll be able to run this back into the other fitting on the passenger side solenoid where we already have this little hose that's looped between the two. It'll go into the other end of that T fitting right there. Again, this one works the same way, you meet resistance and then it'll push in further and once it stops you're nice and secure and then we'll be able to take this access airline and we can secure it up out of the way. We'll be routing our wiring harness with the two hoses that'll go from our compressor and solenoids into he cabin to our gauge with the controller on it. In order to do that, I fed it here along the inside of the frame rail. Kept it tucked in here and then came over the top of this wiring harness. I'll end up pulling this little bit of excess through as well up to the top. I just fed it up along the inside of the firewall to then come out right up into the corner where we went through a grommet. Once I got it pulled through I was able to but a little hole in that grommet big enough for me to get a fish wire through and then once I've pulled the fish wire through from the inside of the truck I hooked it to the wiring and hoses and sent it back down through that grommet carefully. Once I got it pulled down through the grommet, I fed it in along here and it's just fed right up on the inside of the bracket down here and then fed to over here. What we're going to have to do in order to hook our gauge up with our airlines we're going to have to heat the end of these up just a little bit. I'm going to use a heat gun. If you don't have access to a heat gun you can get some hot water out of your tap at home and you can dip the end of the airline into it. You can let it sit for 1-2 minutes to let it soften up a little bit in order to be able to slide it over the end of the fitting. There we go. Once that's into place, once it cools back down, it'll be nice and firm and secure on there. We'll do that to both of these and once you're done you want to make sure you pay attention to which one has the white tape on the end of it so that you can make sure to line them up correctly with your solenoid down underneath so you know which side is driver and which side is passenger. Once we have our airlines hooked up we'll take all of our connectors, our four wires that come in here, and we'll begin to hook those up under the spayed connections on the back of the control. The first one we'll do, we'll do the one with he black tape on it, which is going to be the one that's going to the compressor. That one is going to go on this connector right down here, press it on there firmly. The next one is going to be with the white tape on it which is going to go on the one right above it, right there. After that will be the smaller of the two untaped wire. Got a bigger one and a smaller one. We'll take the smaller one and that's going to go to this upper corner over here. Finally, we'll take the bigger one that doesn't have tape on it and we will put it on that lower middle spade connector. Once we've got all those hooked up we'll need to take our two other wires that come with it. Got our black wire and our red wire here. Those are going to go on the back of where the gauge is right here and what that's going to do is that's going to give us our power and ground for our light in the gauge. Red one goes on the upper one black one goes on he lower. Once we have everything hooked up up here on the gauge and controller, I'm going to take one of these supplied self tapping screws and we'll put one more on the other side. That's nice and secure. Back down here at the compressor and the solenoids we can take these and hook these up. The wire with the black tape on it will go to the compressor. You want to make sure that gets in there nice and secure. The wire with the white tape on it, we'll match it up to the passenger side solenoid which also has the white tape on it. The one without any tape on it we'll match up to the drivers side. On this one, you just feed it and it will go right inside the other. You clip them down so that they're connected all the way. On mine, what I'm going to do on each of these is take a little bit of electrical tape and just wrap it around to help give it a little bit of extra protection against weather and the elements to make sure it doesn't get up into that connector. You want to make sure to remember which side you hooked up and which one had the white tape on it where you hooked it up at the back of the gauge up top. For mine, I hooked the white one up for the passenger side and this ones the passenger side solenoid. Once I have a good end to cut on it I can insert it all the way up into that fitting and then I'll do the same thing with for the drivers side one. There we go. Once those are up into place I can take the wiring harness, I'm just going to tuck it up inside the frame rail here and then I'll be able to take all this excess once I've got it wrapped in my electrical tape and I'll be able to tie it up over here so it's safe and out of the way. On this one I went ahead and routed the airline from the passenger side solenoid all the way along the inside of the frame rail then came out the hole in the bottom of the frame rail and then ran it right up along side across the top of that drivers side airbag and then I was able to go up along the top inside edge of the frame rail and follow where I had run that airline previously. All the way across on the back to where I've tee'd it in with one of the T fittings right here. The other one is following the same path, it's just going to stop over here at the drivers side. To get this airline installed we'll need to get about how much we need. I'm going to give myself just a little bit extra, just to make sure I have enough to work with for putting it into that fitting. Again, I'll take my tubing cutter and push it up into place until I meet resistance and then push it the rest of the way in until it's nice and secure. We can go back and put in the new T fitting for the rear. Right here looks like a good spot for me to install that T fitting so I'm going to use my tubing cutter then I can install either end into the T fitting making sure that they're seated all the way into place. I've got the airline coming from up at that solenoid, have a little bit of excess here so I can clip just a little bit of it off. With a good clean cut I can install it into my T fitting and then I can go back and if there's anywhere that the airline that I just installed looks like it needs to be secured, I can do that with some of the supplied wire ties. Last thing we'll do underneath the vehicle once everything's been hooked up, we want to make sure to not forget to put our little air filter onto our compressor. That will just screw in. There we go. Let's head back up top and get ready to find our power. In order for us to gain power for our compressor we're going to need to find a fuse with the ampage rating of 25 or higher. It's going to need to be one that only has power when the ignition is turned on with the key. In this one this is the fuse that I've found to be the best one to use. It's a 25Amp fuse. I'm just going to pull that fuse out and I'm going to take this little fuse tap. What it does is it slides over the end and clips up there into place and then you can reinstall the fuse. You want to make sure it's pressed down in there firmly. With that in place what we'll do is we'll need to make sure that we have the correct connector on the end, so we're going to have to switch from this yellow one to this blue one. Clip that one off the end, strip the end of it, feed that into this connector here, we'll crimp that nice and firmly, make sure it's not going anywhere. We can take that, clip it down onto the top of that. Once we're done with that we can take our 30Amp fuse that goes in line in the holder. Put it in, then, we can put the cover for our fuse box back into place. We've got this black wire that I'm going to be running as the ground for the lights on the gauge inside. I have about how much I needed there. I'm going to run it and ground it right there. I'll strip the end of that off, slide the ring terminal on there and crimp that down. I'll take 10mm undo the nut for that ground then I can slide my ring terminal for the ground onto the stud, replace that nut then I can tighten it down. I'll be able to secure this wire right here, using a wire tie. I'm going to take this red wire, which is the power wire, for the light on that gauge and I'm going to run it up here and I'm going to wire it into the headlights so that way when the headlights are on that light is going to be on as well. In order to do that I need to remove the headlight and to do so I need to take this little L pin here and remove that and this light will pop out. I'm going to wire it to the low beam, which is the outer one. What I'll need to do is I'm going to take this, remove the bulb, I can reinstall that, I just need the connector. I can route this red wire around the battery, to where it comes out up here by the headlight. I'm just going to take both of these connectors off so that I can set the headlight aside and don't have to worry about dropping it. I'm going to need to check to see which is power and in order to do that I'm going to use a test light, I'll ground it and then I need to turn the headlights on. I need to check for which has power. It's that one over there so that's going to be on that yellow wire. I'll peel this back a little bit, I'll go and shut the headlights back off. That way I can clip it, strip it. I only cut about as much red wire as I'll need. Strip that as well and then I'll take a butt connector and on the one side I'll just have the yellow wire coming into it. I'll crimp that and make sure that that's secure, that those aren't going to come out, and then on the other end I can wire these two together and put them into the other end of the butt connector and crimp those down. I'll apply heat using the heat gun. Now that we've got this hooked up and I've tucked it back inside the loom we can go back inside the truck and test to make sure that that gauge light illuminates when we turn on the headlights. We'll reinstall our headlight same way we took it off, just get it set back into place. There we go. We can replace our pin once we've got the holes lined up and lock our pin back down into position so our headlight's nice and tight. Let's test to see if our switch operates the compressor. With the key on fit for one side and the other side. Going to set them both at about 50 and then we can go check for leaks. Let's spray our fittings and check to make sure none of them are leaking. Let's move up and check it at the solenoids. No leaks, and that's definitely a good thing. That's going to complete our look at the Air Lift Load Controller I Compressor System for Air Helper Springs with a dual path. Part number AL 25651 on our 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500.


Ask the Experts about this Air Lift Air Suspension Compressor Kit

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    The Air Lift Load Controller I Compressor System for Air Helper Springs - Dual Path # AL25651 does not have a PSI that it will fill an air tank to, as it is designed for use with air helper springs and doesn't have that type of rating. What it does have is a gauge that will read the pressure in your air springs up to 100 PSI. I have added a link to an installation video of this kit for you to check out as well.
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    The Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Helper Springs # AL57390 referenced in your question are confirmed to fit your 2002 Ford F-250 and they will do a great job of reducing the strain on the truck's factory suspension. The springs feature a load-leveling capacity of up to 5,000 pounds so they are up to the task for your wrecker application. In addition to their maximum capacity the air bags can also be adjusted to account for lighter loads when you aren't towing so that you will always have...
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  • Do LoadLifter 5000 Air Springs on 2014 Ram 2500 Replace Rear Coil Springs
    The Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Air Helper Springs # AL88289 do not replace your coil spring suspension. They install in place of your factory jounce bumpers and work along with your Ram 2500's standard suspension. These are a confirmed fit for your 2014 Ram 2500. You can do the standard installation which includes manual inflation valves or for the most convenient and versatile set-up you can use a Load Controller I Compressor System # AL25651 which is a dual path compressor that...
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    We do have air suspension systems that will work well with your 2004 ford F-350 Diesel 4 X 4. I recommend the Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Helper Springs, part # AL57390. This system will not interfere with the B and W Gooseneck hitch you said you have installed in the bed of your truck. From my research I found that the hole in the frame that the AL57390 uses to attach the top bracket is open and accessible with the B and W hitch installed. This system is designed to work with a suspension...
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