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Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings for Single-Axle, Torsion-Axle Trailers

Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings for Single-Axle, Torsion-Axle Trailers

Item # T4829900
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Titan Accessories and Parts - T4829900
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Fitting and tubing kit is designed for use on single, torsion-axle applications. Call 800-298-8924 to order Titan accessories and parts part number T4829900 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Titan products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings for Single-Axle, Torsion-Axle Trailers. Accessories and Parts reviews from real customers.
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  • Reviews (6)
  • Q & A (20)
  • Videos (2)
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Titan Accessories and Parts - T4829900

  • Trailer Brakes
  • Hydraulic Drum Brakes
  • Disc Brakes
  • Titan
  • Brake Lines
  • Brake Line Kits
  • 18 Feet Long
  • Steel Line and Flexible Hose
  • Single Axle

Fitting and tubing kit is designed for use on single, torsion-axle applications.


  • Provides lines and fittings needed to run brake fluid from actuator to brakes
  • Includes:
    • (1) 12-27/32" Long, flexible hose
    • (2) 18-25/32" Long, flexible hose
    • (1) 19' Long, steel line
    • (1) 17" Long, steel line
    • (1) 66" Long, steel line
    • (3) Hose brackets
    • (3) Hose clips
    • (1) Tee with bracket
    • (4) Line-retaining clips
  • Designed for use on trailers with 1 torsion axle
  • Works with disc brake and drum brake applications

Note: If you intend to run brake lines along the axle of your trailer to install disc brakes - as is often done for boat trailers - you will need 1 additional hose (T0776500 - sold separately) and 1 extra hose clip (T0776400 - sold separately) with bracket (T0776300 - sold separately) to complete the installation.

Single Torsion Axle Brake Line Kit

  • (A) 12-27/32" Long flexible hose (T0777300)
  • (B) 18-25/32" Long flexible hoses (T0776500)
  • (C) 19' Long steel line (T4336000)
  • (D) 66" Long steel line (T1086600)
  • (E) 17" Long steel line (T1062200)
  • (F) Hose brackets (T0776300)
  • (G) Hose clips (T0776400)
  • (H) Tee with bracket (T0778500)
  • (I) Line-retaining clips (T0936600)

Single Torsion Axle Brake Line Kit

K71-B18-00 Titan Single Torsion Axle Tubing Kit

Replaces Titan T4829900

Video of Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings for Single-Axle, Torsion-Axle Trailers

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings Installation

Today we're going to be taking a look at the Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings for Single-axle trailers. Part number is T4829900.Now for running our hydraulic lines from our calipers here, up to the front of your trailer, that's really of course gonna depend on your application, but I like to start just kind of loosely installing things, so we're gonna pull this yellow cap out of the caliper. You can see our flexible line here. Two of them are gonna have these 90 degree bends. We're gonna thread that into where we pulled that yellow cap out.And again, we're just gonna loosely install everything for now. We'll come back through and tighten everything up later.

Now this line is gonna come up to our frame and there's gonna be a block that holds it here. It's just a little clip we put on, slide this through, and then we put in an additional clip there. So that's gonna lock this position out. And it's gonna give us plenty of room for our brake line to flex.Beyond that, we're gonna thread a hard line into the end of this fitting. Generally on the driver's side I'm gonna use the shorter one.

See that's gonna thread in right here. But we need to ensure that we put our T-block, which is here, we've got the incoming line from the actuator that goes in here, this is gonna go to our drivers side, this to our passenger side, or vice versa. Now that, I wanna mount on a fixed surface. So this is a cross member for the trailer. This does not move.

It's not like our axles. I don't like mounting anything brake-line wise, especially hard lines, to your axles. That movement can cause flex and leaks.So we need to mount our T where it's in a good position to get to it. So that's gonna be about right here. I'm gonna keep this down lower, so I'll need to drill a hole here in and then we'll use a self-tapping screw to secure that right to that cross member.

Our hydraulic line's gonna come from the front in and around here to go in here. The short line runs over to here. And then we're gonna have the medium length line, that's gonna run from here, that's gonna go over to the passenger side of the trailer.Now again, every trailer's gonna be different. You're gonna have different mounting locations. So what we're gonna do is go through and get this all set up and we'll walk you through how we did it and show you exactly how you'll need to do it on your trailer, again, that's gonna depend on your configuration, though.Now for running our hydraulic lines from our calipers here up to the front of your trailer, that's really of course gonna depend on your application. But I like to start just kind of loosely installing things. So we're gonna pull this yellow cap out of the caliper. Now this line is gonna come up to our frame and there's gonna be a block that holds it here. It's just a little clip we put on, slide this through, and then we put in an additional clip there. So that's gonna lock this position out. And it's gonna give us plenty of room for our brake line to flex.And here's the attachment point we talked about for our flex line, and again that's gonna fit in like that. So you'll just need to make sure we've got the slack we need for up and down movement. Looks like that's gonna be a good spot. You can see the tab here, we wanna drill a hole for that first. That's gonna be right there. Now we can place that tab into our hole. That'll keep our bracket from moving. We don't want any rotation on it because that's gonna change the angle of our line. Gonna use a number 14 self-tapping screw. We use that to secure the bottom. So now that's gonna come up. We'll use our U-clip. Slide that in behind it. Just like that.Now I'm gonna thread my shorter line in. And again, these are, I'm really just gonna do these hand tight. If we tighten them all the way, we can't really adjust them. We can't move it side to side. So the last step we'll do is go around and tighten every one of our fittings. Now I'm gonna mock up my T-fitting just by threading that in. Looks like we'll mount that right there, so I need to drill the hole for the tab just below it. Now we'll use another self-tapper, we'll secure our T. And then from this point, going over to the passenger side, we're just gonna do this exact same thing.Now here's a good look at how we've got it set up. You can see we've got our main line runs into our T then we've got our split here to come over to our driver side, also over to our passenger side. I like using these loom clamps, they're a metal clamp, zinc coated, then they've got the rubber inside. Part number is A0250 on 'em. And I'd just use the number 12 self-tapping screws to secure those in. Those hold our lines really well. We won't have to worry about 'em wiggling or vibrating, making contact with something we don't want.Same going across the cross member here. Remember, we're using the main cross member on the trailer, we're not going across an axle. And that's just gonna come over to our hard line bracket here running into our line, it's eventually just going down to the caliper there. Now we've got everything in position, we've got our lines the way we want 'em to be ran. Everything's in a safe spot. So now we're gonna go through and we're gonna tighten down all of our fittings to ensure that we've got a good connection.When you're routing your lines, I wouldn't get much more of a bend in it than what we have right here. We need to keep this open, of course it's a hollow tube. So just like a plastic straw, if you bend it too far, it creates kind of a pinch point. We want our fluid to be able to flow freely, so that's gonna be about the extent of a bend that you'll wanna put in it. And any time you're gonna do something like that on that sharp of a bend, a tubing bender is really the way to go or a brake line bender. For the rest of 'em, kind of here in creating this angle, or creating this angle, it's really something you can do by hand.Now for the thin hard line you wanna use a three eighths inch. And then for this larger one on your flex hose, that's gonna be a five eighths, just to keep in mind. Now as far as from the T forward, you can see again loom clamps. We're just running right along the frame. If yourself has accommodations to pass through, that's a good idea. Keep it protected. But you just certainly want it to be below this level so it won't accidentally get stepped on or something like that. We continued running that forward here right into the tongue of our trailer. And that heading out the front. Now this is a really long trailer and it has a very long tongue on it, so we've added a four and a half foot piece of flex hose to the end of this just to get us up to the coupler. Your application, you may need to do that, you may not, it's just gonna depend on the overall length of the setup.Now between our actuator and the line that provides fluid to our calipers, we're doing an electric lockout. As your vehicle's backing up, it's gonna cut off that pressure, or that brake fluid from locking up the brakes. Basically this is important when you're backing up a hill and you want to be able to have your trailer wheels turn freely. This prevents that pressure from being sent back, otherwise when you started to back up a hill, as the actuator gets compressed, it's gonna apply the brakes. It's gonna make it difficult to back up.Now we'll take the flexible brake line hose, you'll have a shorter one from your kit. Remember we've kind of lengthened ours a little bit just to make up for the length of the tongue. And we're gonna get that secured now. Now as you start it, also hold this one with a wrench, that way we don't have to worry about this turning on us. For this you wanna use a nine sixteenths, and then for this, we're gonna stay with the three eighths.With our actuator installed, we've got all of our connections made all the way throughout, it's time to add fluid into the reservoir here on top. So we're gonna open that up. Now the brake fluid you pick, you wanna make sure that you just opened it. That you just opened the seal. Brake fluid that sits around for a long time, it draws moisture into it and it reduces its effectiveness. So we want a fresh pint of brake fluid here. Generally it takes two or three pints to get the entire system flushed, some a little bit more, some a little bit less.We're just gonna top it off, cap it back up. Then we'll go through the bleeding process. Now I cannot stress to you enough the importance of keeping fluid in this reservoir. If you are bleeding the brakes, pumping fluid through it, and this runs dry, well then you're just gonna pump air into the system and then you have to go through the whole thing again. So be sure every one or two times, that you have someone hold the lever which we'll show you here in just a second and open that up, that you take a look in there to make sure you've got the pressure or at least the fluid you need to keep it pressurized.Now something I like about this coupler that we don't see on all of the couplers out there on the market is right here you can see the head of a screw, or a bolt that comes out with a lock nut on it. Simply by using a screwdriver, we're able to go to the hole in the coupler, we can get that in front, and we can use that to pump our fluid. That's gonna generate the pressure that we need to get our fluid all the way back through our lines to our calipers. So what we do, pump it up a little bit here just to get everything primed, then we're gonna have somebody hold this. As they're holding it, we're gonna open up our bleeder screws and start letting air out of the system.You'll notice here as we pump that, the air coming up in the reservoir. So that's slowly getting fluid down into our master cylinder that'll eventually work into our lines. So we're just gonna do this until we don't see the air here and that it's being pushed all the way back in through the system.Now you can kind of see at this point we have very little, if any air coming out at all. So that means we're gonna be primed here. Now it's time to start going to the back. Now remember, we're gonna top off this fluid every chance we get. Keep that full. Now for bleeding the system, we're gonna use the top bleeder screw on each side. That's why there's one on the bottom, one on the top, so regardless of which side the caliper goes on, we always wanna use the upper one. Got the rubber cap, we're gonna take that off. And we want turn the smaller portion here. For that you wanna use a five sixteenths, it's lefty loosey, righty tighty, but you need something to catch the fluid. You can see our very sophisticated device that we've come up with. Basically it's gonna be a rubber hose goes in the top of a water bottle.So we'll place this over the top of that bleeder. And we'll go ahead and have 'em pump up the brakes. Once they've got that pressure held, we wanna open this. And by opening it, we're gonna release the pressure inside there. You're gonna get a little bit air that comes out. and we just need to continue this process until we get rid of all of the air that's coming through and we just have pure fluid. Okay, go ahead.You can see on the bottom of our bottle here, we've got just a little bit of fluid. Let's watch as we brake this open. See those bubbles forming That's what we're getting rid of. So each one of those bubbles indicates air that's coming out of our line. Okay, and I'll tighten it back up. Go ahead. Now a couple a tips for bleeding the system, start with the one that's furthest away from the actuator. Basically, if we drew a line, they'd be the same distance, but this one has more brake line so we're gonna start here. And you can see we've still got air coming out, but we're also starting to get a little bit of fluid. Just wanna make sure we can do this three or four times and not have any air come out. At that point, you're pretty much sure that this line's void of any air. We'll go over to the other one.All right, looks like at this point, pure fluid coming out. So we'll just move over to the other side and we can do the same thing there. Now that should take us a lot less time because we don't have to work it all the way from the actuator through all the lines. And once you're done with the sides, put that bleeder cap back on just to keep it free of debris.And once we've got that system bled, we wanna refill our reservoir and make sure we've got plenty of fluid there. And we're gonna do the same thing we did before. We're gonna apply pressure here and then we're gonna check each of our connection points to make sure we don't have any leaks. We wanna check underneath the front of our solenoid there to make sure we don't have any fluid there. If you connected your hose just like we did but we used a longer one, you wanna check that connection. In this case, we'd have to use a flashlight and we'll look in there in just a second. We're gonna check each of the fittings here at the T. You can see each of those are nice and dry. We're gonna check our hard line connection to our flexible line. Then we'll check the point in which that flexible line goes into the caliper. As long as everything there is dry with some pressure held on it from up front, should be in really good shape.Now we can check out and make sure everything's working, which we know it is but it's good to do. What we're gonna do is rotate our tire here, we'll get it spinning, and we'll have somebody manually activate the brakes for us up there. And see it comes to a nice stop.And that'll complete our installation of the Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings Kit, part number T4829900.

Customer Reviews

Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings for Single-Axle, Torsion-Axle Trailers - T4829900

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (6 Customer Reviews)

Fitting and tubing kit is designed for use on single, torsion-axle applications.

- T4829900

I had everything I needed to finish the job. You might need several more clips for a longer trailer. 216620

- T4829900

Great brake assembly's easy to install. Have had no problems in the year since installing them. It's nice being able to get everything at one place at etrailer. 690572

- T4829900

easy to install. 600117

- T4829900

Used to replace existing lines. Didn’t need all the parts, have some spares now. 478365

- T4829900

Work perfectly on my one-off trailer bu ild 313904

- T4829900

Even though it took 8 days to ship the item (4 days in the warehouse), less than two states over, the products were packaged well and it seems to be good quality. I will be installing them this afternoon. 141373


Ask the Experts about this Titan Accessories and Parts

  • I Want to Replace All of the Surge Brake Equipment on a 2002 Performance Boat Trailer
    The surge brake equipment of your trailer consists of the brake lines, drum brakes and the brake actuator. To ensure I recommend the correct parts for your trailer I will need a little more information. A brake line kit is pretty universal. For a single axle trailer, I recommend using part # T4829900. This kit comes with all of the lines and fittings you will need to replace everything from the actuator to the brake assemblies. For an actuator, I would need to know what type of...
    view full answer...
  • Fitting Size for Brake Line Connections with Titan Hydraulic Brake Line Kit
    Yes, the fittings for the Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings for Single-Axle, Torsion-Axle Trailers # T4829900 are standard brake line fittings designed to fit 3/8" x 24 TPI (threads per inch) just like what you mentioned.
    view full answer...
  • Is the Titan Brake Kit Compatible with Actuator on 1994 EZ Loader Tandem Axle Boat Trailer
    Since the actuator you currently have is compatible with disc brakes, it should work fine with the Titan disc brakes as long as the actuator is in good repair. Make sure the existing actuator has a 1500 psi rating and that the bearing and seal numbers listed for the rotors are compatible with your existing bearings. In order for the kit to work for you, your axle will need the standard 4 bolt mounting flange for the calipers to attach to. You might also need the line kit, part # T4829900...
    view full answer...
  • Do Brake Lines Have to be Equal Length for them to Activate Brake Assemblies Equally
    Hydraulic pressure does not apply more braking to the closer brake lines than the ones further away. The pressure is equal across the entire system at all times so the braking would be equal regardless of one set of brake assemblies having shorter lines than the other.
    view full answer...
  • Brake Lines for Hydraulic Brakes on a Slide Axle Trailer
    What I would do is run regular steel brake line back to the mid point of where the axle can travel like you have said. Then from there use the flexible hose long enough to reach when the axle is in the most forward or most rearward position and long enough for the travel of the suspension. We do not have a kit with all flexible hose but a local auto parts store should have all of the parts needed to fabricate something up. The longest flexible hose we have is # T0980100 at 25 inches.
    view full answer...
  • Hydraulic Drum Trailer Brakes for 2,000 lb Timbren Axle-Less System
    There are hydraulic drum brakes you can use with the 2,000 lb Timbren Axle-Less Trailer Suspension System # ASR2000S02, you'll just need to get a hub and drum that fits (there are no electric disc brakes available). The correct hub and drum for this Timbren system is the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-545-35-EZ-K. You will then be able to use the Hydraulic Trailer Brake Kit # AKUBRK-35 with Mounting Hardware # BRKH10B. With this you are also going to need a hydraulic drum...
    view full answer...
  • Parts Needed To Install Brakes On Haulmark 8 Foot V Nose Trailer
    I did some research and it looks like most Haulmark trailers like yours have a 3,500-lb single axle. If you have different axles then let me know and I can make the correct recommendation.  Your axle must have brake mounting flanges attached behind the existing hub assembly on each side for brakes. If there are no brake mounting flanges then you will either have to replace your axle or purchase brake mounting flanges that can be welded to your axle by a qualified welder.  A common...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Hydraulic Trailer Brake Lines and Hoses
    For brake lines, we have many sizes and they are either flexible rubber hoses like # 24TA-BLKIT or fixed lines like # T4829900. I've linked the page to all the components and kits we carry.
    view full answer...
  • 3,500 lbs. Axle with Hydraulic Drum Brakes Kit
    I have a solution for you but unfortunately we do not carry any axles that come with hydraulic brakes. What you will need to do is buy the parts separately, but I have all the parts you will need. First, for an axle, you will need the Dexter Axle Beam with EZ Lube Spindles # T3584F-EZ-8974. This axle is 89" long with a weight capacity of 3,500 lbs. which is the same as the # 35545E-ST-EZ-89 Dexter Axle you were looking at. For your Hydraulic Trailer Brake Assemblies you will want...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Surge Brake Parts for 2004 5 Starr Boat Trailer
    It sounds like you have a Demco Actuator to me like # DM8104002. We also have one with a 4 inch drop # DM8104311. Both are Hydraulic Brake Actuators that are rated at 12,500lbs.,has a 2-5/16 inch ball, and bear the DA10 model number. I was able to look up your boat trailer and the parts used between packages varied. I can help you pick out Rotors, Lines, Calipers, and Pads if you can provide me with more information about the current items on the trailer. I will need the number of...
    view full answer...
  • Disc Brake Kit Recommendation for Boat Trailer With 3,500-lb Axles
    If you have the same boat trailer as you did in your previous question, which has 3,500 lb axles and 13 inch wheels, then the only kit that we offer for your trailer is the Titan Disc Brake Kit # T4843300. The thing about this kit is that it comes with a coupler, which you already have, and the hub/rotors that you were not wanting. This kit includes the combination of a few different kits. Since you already have an actuator, the kits that you would need are the Disc Brake Assembly (2...
    view full answer...
  • Parts for Switch Over to Disc Brakes From Dexter Electric Drum Brakes With Neve-R-lube Bearings
    For a 7,000 pound Dexter Never Lube axle with 8 on 6-1/2 inch bolt pattern and 9/16 inch wheel studs you will not be able to go with disc brakes on the existing axle. The Problem you will run into is that the center of the hub on your existing brake drum hubs will not work with the slip over disc. Machining the drum off still would not allow the slip over disc to fit correctly. In this case you will need to go with drum brakes like you already have or special order axles that are outfitted...
    view full answer...
  • Is a 1600 psi Brake Actuator too Much for Kodiak 10 Inch Disc Trailer Brakes
    Disc brakes require a higher psi than drum brakes. Usually you will see actuators rated for 1500 or 1600 psi with few exceptions. Going with an actuator rated for 1600 psi will work perfectly fine. A 1000 psi actuator would not be sufficient. The issue with flexible cable is that it can move/change shape when the fluid inside is under pressure and that can have a negative effect on braking. However this is less likely to be an issue on a trailer than it is on a passenger vehicle. If...
    view full answer...
  • Parts Needed to Convert to Electric Trailer Brakes or Repair Hydraulic Trailer Brakes
    You can switch to electric brakes, but there are several parts you will need. First, you need to take a look at the hole pattern for the brake mounting flange. This is the piece that is welded to the axle that holds the brake assembly. The 7 inch brakes you are looking at have a standard 4 hole mounting pattern. If the existing flange has a different pattern, you will need to have the old flange removed and a new one welded on by a qualified professional with experience working on trailers....
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Replacement Trailer Brakes, Brake Drums and Hydraulic Coupler for Boat Trailer
    The Timbren Axle-Less suspension system you mentioned is compatible with the brake hub/drum # 8-201-51UC3-EZ and the # T4489500 right hand and # T4489600 left hand free backing brake assemblies. The brake drums are galvanized and the brake assemblies have a Galphorite plating for corrosion protection. The brake drum has a 6 on 5-1/2 inch wheel bolt pattern. It sounds like you're interested in a hydraulic or surge coupler. I'd recommend the Dexter Drop-N-Go Brake Actuator, part # 099-175-00...
    view full answer...
  • Brake Line Kit that Includes 19 Foot Steel Line for Disc Trailer Brakes on a Boat Trailer
    You could use Titan brake line kit # T4829900 instead. It comes with a 19 foot long steel line. Normally if brakes are only going onto one axle of a tandem axle trailer they go on the front axle, not the back axle. That is likely why so many kits only have a 16 foot line. You get better braking when the brakes are on the forward axle.
    view full answer...
  • How To Add Surge Brakes to the Timbren 2,200 Lb Axle-Less Trailer Suspension System
    It sounds like you are referring to surge brakes in which case I do have an option for you to add these to the Timbren Axle-Less Trailer Suspension System part # ASR1THDS03. In order to do this you will need the Demco Hydraulic Brake Kit part # 40716-15 and the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly part # 84546UC3-EZ (2). The rest of the parts you will need are brake lines, the Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings part # T4829900 and a surge brake coupler, the Demco Hydraulic Brake...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Disc Brakes for 3,500 lb Axles
    There is a little bit of information from Kodiak brakes that has some tests that I will link you to separately. We do consider Kodiak to be top-notch and for a 3,500 lb idler hub, I recommend the following braking system: - Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 10" Rotor - 5 on 4-1/2 - Dacromet and KodaGuard - 3,500 lbs # K2R35DKG These will fit over your hubs so long as they have a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern, which is pretty standard, though I'll link you to a help article to figure out how to determine...
    view full answer...
  • Will Disc Brake Kit Work with EZ-Lube Spindle
    Yes, you can use the Disc Brake Kit and Actuator T4843500 on a trailer that has a grease fitting on the end of the spindle (often known as an EZ Lube spindle). You do need to make sure that this kit is compatible with your trailer's axle capacity, brake mounting flange, bearings and grease seal are compatible. The Disc Brake Kit T4843500 is rated for a 3,500 lb axle with a 4-bolt brake mounting flange. It uses inner bearing # L68149, outer bearing # L44649 and grease seals # RG06-050....
    view full answer...
  • Recommendation for Electric Over Hydraulic Brakes on a Single Axle Trailer
    We don't have a kit already put together but we can get you exactly what you need. You will simply order the following items to get this job done. 2- Titan Disc Brake Assembly - 10" Hub/Rotor - 5 on 4-1/2 - Dacromet - 3,500 lbs part # T10HREKITBB 1- Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings for Single-Axle part # T4829900 1- Titan BrakeRite II Severe-Duty Electric-Hydraulic Actuator Kit part # T4835700 Upgrading to disc brakes can make a world of difference when it comes to braking...
    view full answer...

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Info for this part was:

Written by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
John H
Installed by:
Jeff D
Installed by:
Randy B
Updated by:
Adele M
Updated by:
Sarah W
Video Edited:
Zach D

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