Second Vehicle Kit for Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System

Second Vehicle Kit for Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System

Item # RM-98700

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Accessories and Parts RM-98700 - Second Vehicle Kit - Roadmaster
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  • Tow Bar Braking Systems
  • Second Vehicle Kit
  • Roadmaster
Call 800-298-8924 to order Roadmaster accessories and parts part number RM-98700 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Roadmaster products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Second Vehicle Kit for Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System. Accessories and Parts reviews from real customers.


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  • Reviews (11)
  • Q & A (8)
  • Videos (4)
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Roadmaster Accessories and Parts - RM-98700


Features:

  • Fits Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System (RM-8700)
  • Includes:
    • Pulley
    • Cable Anchor Bracket
    • Brake Pedal Clamp with mounting nuts and bolts
    • Monitor wire patch cord
    • Four wire harness: breakaway, power and ground
    • Breakaway Cable
    • Breakaway Switch, pin and ring
    • Vacuum check valves (3/8" and 1/2")
    • Vacuum line tees (3/8" and 1/2")
    • Four-wire flat harness - towed lighting


98700 Roadmaster Invisi Brake New Car Kit



RM-98700 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details RM-98700 Installation instructions



Video of Second Vehicle Kit for Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Roadmaster InvisiBrake Second Vehicle Kit Installation - 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Today on our 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited we'll be installing the Roadmaster second vehicle kit, Roadmaster InvisiBrake braking systems, part number RM-98700. Here's what the kit looks like installed, as you can see when I step on the brakes in the RV the pedal goes down inside our Jeep as well. Now in the unlikely event if our vehicle was to ever become uncoupled from our motor home and the break away switch was pulled our brakes would be applied in the tow vehicle. Now if the pin was pulled the brakes would stay applied in our vehicle until it came to a stop. It was reattached to our tow vehicle and the pin reinserted. Now you can easily adjust how much pressure is going to our brakes for an aggressive setup. Your break away switch is pulled you can adjust it as needed to where you want it.

It will go up to 80 PSI max. Once you have it adjusted where you want it you can reinstall your break away switch. The more pressure you have the more the more power it will be to your brakes so if you find that your tow vehicle is stopping not quite as fast you can just adjust the pressure down. If you want the towed vehicle to stop faster you can add more pressure. This kit is designed to work with the Roadmaster InvisiBrake supplemental braking system, part number RM-8700. This will allow you to easily hook up a second vehicle with your existing supplemental braking system without having to purchase an entire new system.

This is a permanent installation. There's nothing to remove or disconnect. The braking pressure does not have to be readjusted after initial setup. There is no false braking. The system activates only when the RV's brake lights are illuminated.

Also included is a trickle charger to the vehicle's batteries when the running lights are on in the RV so you don't have to worry about your battery being run down when the brakes are applied. The system will automatically begin to release pressure after 15 seconds of continuous braking. As you can see it's a clean install where everything's tucked up out of the way. There's no big bulky boxes to attach to your brake pedal at any moment in time. All you have to do is just hook up to your RV and get out on the road, hook up your tow bar and your electrical connection, your break away cable and you're good to go. There's nothing else to setup.

It automatically sets up every time for you. It's easy to hide the InvisiBrake control module out of the way underneath your drivers seat. It allows you to have full access to your vehicle and not lost any cargo space. Now before you get started with the installation you want to make sure you have the three parts from your old install in your old vehicle. First off being the InvisiBrake control unit right here, then you need your air cylinder and cable assembly. Then the patch cord that goes between the RV and your tow vehicle. Now the first part of the install is going to be finding a place to mount our control unit. All right, in our case we're going to mount our control unit right underneath our drivers seat right about here. In order to make it easier for us we're going to remove our drivers seat and we have four 18 millimeter bolts, one in each corner of the seat brackets. We're going to go ahead and remove those. Step over to the front we'll show you how to get those out. Okay, we'll do the same for all four bolts. Okay, with all four of our bolts for our seat unbolted we have this T45 Torx bolt right here that holds our seatbelt in place. We'll remove that. Now underneath our seat, this is the last connection point, we have a connector here for our airbag system. We'll just push on this tab here, disconnect it. Okay, now you can just lift out your seat, set it to the side and out of the way. All right, with our seat out of the way now and our InvisiBrake in the location we want it we'll secure it down on the floor with a 3/8 self-tapping screw and a thinner washer on each of our mounting tabs. These are not provided with your kit, you'll have to get your own. Okay and that's nice and securely mounting. We can carry on with our installation. All right, now we need to find out how much of a bracket we're going to need in order to attach to our brake pedal so we'll put our bolts through. We'll just use the two closest ones here first and do a test fit. As you can see that gives us plenty of room so anything past where this bolt goes in we can cut off the access. We'll do the same on both sides of our bracket. Now the reason that we're going to cut off this excess is so when we're stepping on our brake pedal we don't have to worry about catching our feet here. Now to make our life easy so we can hide our cable for our air cylinder we're going to remove our front section of carpet here. Jeep's have sections so they're real easy to remove just unscrew a little hole down here. We have two more underneath the firewall. We're also going to take out door our seal panel right here. We have one trim panel fastener, let's pop that up, then you grab it. I'm going to loosen up our back section here. We have two more fasteners and set it aside. Now we just grab our carpet, pull it on out. Now we'll take our end of our cable on our cylinder, slide it through and thread on the other nut. We're going to have it so it's about half way so we can adjust it as needed in the future. Now we'll take our bracket, drop in our two long Allen head bolts. This side will face towards the firewall and it will be on the drivers side of our brake pedal. Take our clamp, place it on and we'll thread on our two nuts. Okay, now I'm going to clamp this to our brake pedal as low as possible. We use a 5/32 Allen key and a 3/8 socket to hold the nut still, let's work on evenly. Now we'll slide our cable on to our bracket, push the stud through and bring our nut up from the cable the back side and we'll make sure when we snug this down a little bit that we have about half of the stud exposed on either side, that way it gives us some adjustment room. Okay, we'll tighten it up here later. Now we need to attach our pulley to our cable. In order to do that pull these two pins out here by removing the clips and we'll slide our cable down here. We're going to install our pins and clip them back into place. Now we need to find a place to mount our pulley to the firewall. There's a couple things you want to consider when doing this. One, make sure your cable comes at a straight shot out of the pulley to the brake pedal bracket. Secondly, you want to make sure that when your cable's clamped down to the floor of the vehicle the cable exiting the plastic sheathing is in a straight line coming out as well. We found our two locations where we're going to mount it. We're going to go ahead and mount it now with the included self-tapping screws. As you can see you have your straight shot coming out here, going in the bracket for the pedal on your straight shot of the cable coming out of the plastic sheathing right here. Yeah, once we get out two started in opposite corners we'll install the other two. Okay, here's the clamp that we're going to use to secure our cable to the floor, slides right over the metal part here and secured in place with two self-tapping screws. Okay, what now we're going to do is we're going to press down on our brake pedal manually and make sure that the cable coming out of our bracket is in a straight line with the pulley. With it at a straight line at the pulley we can go ahead and tighten our clamps down further on the brake pedal bracket itself. Okay, in order to get the front one we'll have to take our cable loose by undoing the back nut. We can just slide on out, make sure it's not to go slide around any. Place our cable back on the bracket, re-secure the nut. Okay, with our cable loosely installed on our bracket we need to make our final adjustments here for slack. We want them to have about half to a full ball sticking out of slack. To do that we'll just adjust the stud. All right, we got some slack now so now we'll tighten down our back nut. You can see how much slack we have. Now we'll just tighten down both those nuts to secure it to the bracket. Okay, we'll just use two half inch wrenches to tighten those nuts down. Once they're tight, we'll double check our slack. Okay, now we need to find a place to mount our cylinder. We want to have as minimal amount of twist and turns in the cable as possible because the more straight line that it's in the better it will work. We're just going to stretch this on back. We can mount it underneath our carpet here right next to our back seat. We'll just push our cable here underneath our B-pillar panel that will conceal it. Take our carpet up now, our cylinder will sit right there and the carpet will tuck down nice neat over it and you won't be able to see it. This clamp will go over the fat end so push it down, make sure our tabs line up and we'll secure it to the floor with the self-tapping screw. We'll get our self-tapping screw in place and run it down. Now our fitting here for our air line, we want to make sure it doesn't point straight up so the air line is not going to be hitting the bottom of the carpet. We want it to come out to the side so we can route it following the cable to our cylinder. Now we'll take our small air line that's included with our kit, plug it into this fitting here and route it the same direction as our cable to as our cylinder. Now we use an air line tubing cutter to cut off our excess, making sure we leave a little bit of slack in case we need it. We're using part number F9009 to make our cut. Okay, with that cut off we'll plug it into our cylinder. I'll just push it in until it stops. Now we'll tuck our carpet back down in. Okay, now we have one end of our big air line tubing, we need to run this through the firewall of our vehicle and this will connect to our InvisiBrake control unit and to our connections underneath the hood. Okay, right up here where my hand is, point over to this grommet we're going to go through. This grommet, you won't have this if your Jeep has a manual transmission. This is where the slave cylinder goes through. If you have an automatic it's a perfect place to go through. I'll just push our air line tubing through a little bit so we have access to it through the engine bay. All right, here's our cable, we'll just pull it up a little bit. Now we'll tape all of our wiring harnesses to the air line tubing and pull them through the firewall too so we have everything we need in the engine bay. Okay, this plug right here plugs in to our unit here on the back side. This has our power and a ground wire and our cable for our break away switch. Here's the end of our power and ground wire. Here's the end of our break away switch. We're going to tape this up to each other and pull it on through. Okay, here's our other connector which plugs into the other back connector on our module. This taps into our existing towed vehicle lighting wiring so we're going to tape that together with the other wiring harness to the air line. The last wire we need to tape up with the rest before we pull it through the firewall with our air line tubing is our monitor indicator light which we'll attach to our brake pedal switch. Now we'll tape it as far up on the air line as possible. Now we'll pull everything in the engine bay. You may need to feed it through the firewall or have someone else push it through. Okay, with that all through now we'll undo all of our tape. Okay, now we're back inside our vehicle. We're going to plug in all of our connectors so we don't pull out the connectors when we're removing our slack. We'll do the same with our air line tubing too. Now, we'll take our vacuum line that's included with our kit and we'll install it on our air hose, work it down a good amount, the more you have on there the better. Then we'll plug our air hose on to our fitting here, push it on all the way. Now, we'll just take the rest of our slack out through the firewall with our other wiring and hose. All right, we went ahead and bundled up all of our wires and cables to an existing wiring harness that goes out the firewall with some zip ties. Trim off the excess here. Now we'll reinstall of our interior starting with our carpet. We're going to have to make a notch between our two connection points in our carpet. This is for our cable and our pulley to pass through. Okay, I'm just going to use a pair of tin snips or a pair of sharp scissors you can do the same, just to cut this. You can also use a sharp utility knife. You can see where we cut out for our cable over our pulley now we'll reattach it to our firewall. Okay we got our clips back on, our carpet is adequately cut for our pulley to get through. Now we'll just tuck all of our carpet back in where it belongs. Okay we got our carpet back in place now. Our side panel back in place as you can see all of our wires are hidden underneath it. Now we'll place our seat back into position. Make sure we plug our connector back in. All right now we'll tighten down our bolts. We'll do the same for the front ones. Okay, now we'll reinstall our seatbelt. Get it in position and reinstall our bolt. All right, we have all of our wiring connections, all of our plumbing done and all of our cables and attachments points, all made on the inside. Everything else that we're doing now is going to be underneath the hood. Now the cable for our monitor light, we're just going to pass through and follow where our wiring went for our six pole round connector in the front for our towed vehicle lighting system. Okay, we have our wire passed all the way through now, we'll just secure it up with a couple zip ties and we'll pull the rest of the slack inside the firewall. All right, now this wire we will attach to the cold side of our brake light switch. Now this vehicle has a brake light relay installed on it, on the stoplight switch so we'll be attaching this wire to the cold side of that. Here's our brake light relay that we installed. Now you need to have this relay installed so when the brakes are depressed in the motor home and they apply the brakes inside the Jeep, if your turn signal's on you don't have to worry about the factory brake light switch overriding the turn signal function because our brake light switch in this vehicle does not ever go dead. We installed this to override it. All right, so I'll measure off how much of wire we need and cut off the excess. This black wire would normally go to the cold side of your brake light switch because we have this brake light relay installed we'll be going to the green wire. We'll just cut it right here, strip off both ends of insulation from the green wire. Take your black wire here, strip off some insulation from it too and we'll tie it together with this end away from the relay. Put a butt connector over it, crimp it down, put the other, green wire back in the other side of the butt connector and crimp it down. Okay, with that done we'll now have a functioning indicator light inside of our motor home. Okay, we're on the drivers side of our vehicle right now. Right behind our master cylinder we have brake booster. Where our line comes in to the brake booster from the engine we'll locate a straight part in the line and we'll cut it. The reason we're cutting this because this is where we're going to tap in for our vacuum lines. That with give us vacuum assisted brakes so our brakes work easier when it's being towed. Okay, with that cut, take off this loom now here. We'll take our black check valve, it's the smaller diameter one, the red band faces towards the engine so we'll go ahead and push that in to our hose. Okay with that in all the way we'll now cut off a segment of hose so we have a place to put our T fitting in. Okay, so we're going to place our T fitting right about here. This is where it's going to hook our air hose to our control module up to right here. We'll cut it right here in this straight spot, take our fitting, work it on. Now we'll connect it to the check valve that we installed. Okay, so we're sliding this hose onto our barbed fitting on our T fitting. Okay, now we'll just cut off our excess air line tubing here and we'll insert that into our hose. Okay, this is our break away switch. We need to mount it someplace that's easy to get to. We just mounted ours right next to our six pole round connector for our vehicle lights and we just drilled a hole in our bumper. This is an aftermarket bumper, of course, secured with a bolt nut on the inside and we'll make our connection here to our break away cable. All right, our break away cable that we'll connect to our break away switch right here, we'll just follow the same path as we did for our indicator light wire. Okay, we'll plug the two ends of our break away switch and our break away cabling together. With it fully inserted we'll make sure we wrap up our connections in some electrical tape to protect them from the elements. Okay, with our break away switch connection all wrapped up in tape, we secure it with some zip ties to our wiring harness here, be sure we trim off that excess to make it look nice and clean and we'll move on for wiring. Okay, our excess cable that we have for our break away switch, we just zipped up with some zip ties here and we'll tuck it down in this pocket behind our washer fluid reservoir. This will just keep it out of the way. Here's our wiring from the inside that we'll attach to our tow vehicle lighting wiring, which is right here. What we'll do is we'll take our towed vehicle lighting wiring and cut it in half. I'll separate all four of our wires. Okay, now the section of our towed vehicle lighting wiring that goes to the lights themselves and not the connector and the wires from inside the car, we'll tie them all together and connect them with butt connectors. We'll be using 10 to 12 gage butt connectors. Here's the ones that come with the kit or you could upgrade to a heat shrink butt connector. We have these available on our website. Start with our green wires here, strip off the insulation from both of these and we'll tie them together. Okay, we have those twisted together, we'll put our butt connector on and we'll crimp it down. With that done we'll do the same for the yellow, brown and the white wires. Okay, now we'll take the other end that goes to the front of our tow vehicle lighting wiring and we'll connect it to our green, yellow and brown wires. The white wire is different so we'll leave that one for later. We'll insert it into the butt connector, crimp it down. We'll do the green and the yellow wires the exact same way as the brown. Now, we're going to take some excess white wire from our excess four flat wiring, cut that off, strip off some insulation from it and then the white wire that goes to the front of our six connector, strip that off too. We'll tie these two together. With those tied together we'll connect it to the other end of the butt connector for our white wires and we'll crimp it down. Okay, with all of our heat shrink butt connectors now used we'll use a heat gun and shrink them on down. Okay, with all of our connections made here we'll go ahead and tuck these back in the original spot underneath this tab. There's a bolt that went right here, 10 millimeter bolt, I just removed it and we'll just pop up on this with a trim panel tool and slide our wire underneath. Okay, this wire here, our white wire is our ground wire, we need to have an additional ground which is why we added extension. We'll go right here to this factory ground point. There's a 10 millimeter nut, we'll just remove that. Make sure the ring terminal that we're going to use will fit over that stud. We'll cut off our excess wire that we added, strip back the insulation, take the ring terminal, stick it on, crimp it down. Slide the terminal over the stud, reinstall the nut. Okay, this black and red wire here is our power and ground wire. We need to connect this to our vehicle's battery which is on the passenger side of the vehicle. Our wire came out the firewall on the drivers side. We'll just bundle it to this existing wiring bundle right here. Okay, now our red and black wire we'll separate those two, pull them apart, zip tie it up to our existing battery cable just to make a nice clean look. Okay, now measure off how much we need for our ground wire, cut off the excess, strip back some of the insulation, we'll attach a ring terminal and crimp it on down. We'll just place that on right here, remove this nut with a 10 millimeter socket. Place the ring terminal on the stud, reinstall the nut, tighten it on down. Okay, the power wire is slightly different. We need to install our fuse holder onto that so how we're going to do this is we'll cut off some of the wire here, strip off the insulation, attach our fuse holder to the blue butt connector, this is pre-installed on it. Now we'll pull apart our fuse holder, take this end and one end of the wire that excess that we just cut off, strip off the insulation from the wire. We'll insert it into the fuse holder and we'll crimp it down right in this spot right here. Now, we'll measure off a little bit extra of the wire, cut it off, strip off some insulation, attach a ring terminal. Okay, now this we'll attach on to one of our positive battery terminal studs, these are 10 millimeters here. Now our fuse for our fuse holder is zip tied right to the fuse wire so undo the zip tie so push the fuse in the fuse holder. You have to push it in pretty hard, just to let you know and we'll connect the other end together. That completes our installation of the Roadmaster second vehicle kit for Roadmaster InvisiBrake braking systems, part number RM-98700 on a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.


Customer Reviews

Second Vehicle Kit for Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System - RM-98700

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (11 Customer Reviews)


- RM-98700
by:

Received the product as advertised and as always etrailer.com provided excellent customer service and prompt response. I plan to install the product on another vehicle but have not yet begun that process, so I have no comments for that as yet. I do appreciate the support and responsiveness of etrailer.com and will continue to make them my first choice for towing products when I need them. 182407



- RM-98700
by:

Kit contained everything I needed to transfer an Invisibrake from a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee to a 2017 Jeep Cherokee. Medium to high level skill required for install. Modifications to trim/interior parts required to make the Invisibrake components fit. 660295



- RM-98700
by:

GREAT ordering customer service! I Needed to get some Roadmaster parts very quickly and Anna got my order in and got them to ship it out that night so I would get it when I needed it! And their prices were better than anyone elses. Will be ordering some hitches from them soon! 627800



- RM-98700
by:

Great part and great women tech Cathy 594640



- RM-98700
by:

Had just what I needed and service was fast 463778



- RM-98700
by:

as described 456888



- RM-98700
by:

Everything was as ordered and in great shape. For some reason the shipping was quite a bit slower than usual.You Guy's and Gal's are great. 429887



- RM-98700
by:

This kit enabled us to wire our second car so we could use the invisabrake on both vehicles. Came in 3 days and etrailer price matched it. 353830



- RM-98700
by:

I purchased this unit for a customer. I have not heard any complaints, nor had to do work on the system. That's a plus in my book. I don't shop much outside of my normal distributors, but when I do, it's nice to know that I can count on excellent customer service and feedback from your company. 285437



- RM-98700
by:

The kit was complete and provided all parts and connectors to complete installation. Based on the items provided I believe it is extremely over-priced, but this is not etrailer.com's issue, it is Roadmaster. 280318



- RM-98700
by:

Everything was in the package per inventory sheet. Installations was breeze. 176628


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Ask the Experts about this Roadmaster Accessories and Parts
Do you have a question about this Accessories and Part?


  • What Is Needed to Install a Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System in Second Car
  • Technically, both are right. The Second Vehicle Kit for Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System, # RM-98700, was designed as a kit to take the InvisiBrake system out of one vehicle and permanently install the unit in another vehicle. The kit provided for new air tubing and other components that Roadmaster recommends replacing when re-installing the InvisiBrake in another vehicle. However, if you have two vehicles and you are going to be switching the InvisiBrake system between the two,...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Base Plates for 2012 Jeep Liberty to Use with Roadmaster Sterling Tow Bar
  • If your 2012 Jeep Liberty doesn't have a rockguard or skid plate then I recommend the Roadmaster EZ Base Plate Kit # 521433-1. If you do have a rockguard or skid plate then you will want the Roadmaster EZ Base Plate Kit # 521434-1, which will actually replace the rockguard/skid plate. Both of these options are directly compatible with your existing Sterling Tow Bar. Your current Roadmaster InvisiBrake # RM-8700 will also work great with your Jeep Liberty. If you are using a lighting...
    view full answer...

  • What are the Dimensions of SMI replacement Check Valve # SM99909
  • I measured the Replacement Check Valve for SMI Supplemental Braking Systems # SM99909 for you. The overall diameter at the barbs for each end is 0.42 inches. The more narrow parts at the base have a diameter of 0.37 inches. The center, widest section is 0.76 inches in diameter. The overall length is 1.66 inches. This valve was designed to work with the Air Force One SM99202 or # SM99243 and Stay-IN-Play Duo # SM99251. So if you have one of these systems this is the correct replacement. If...
    view full answer...

  • Vacuum Line and Tee Fitting Availability for Roadmaster Invisibrake
  • Yes, all of the parts you mentioned are available separately through us. I have linked them below to see them all individually. # RM-452140 # RM-452141 # RM-452137 # RM-452136 # RM-452118 # RM-452116
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Transfer Roadmaster InvisiBrake to 2017 Jeep Cherokee
  • The Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System # RM-8700 is a confirmed fit for your 2017 Jeep Cherokee as long as it does NOT have a non-electric hydroboost braking system. You will need the Stop Light Switch Kit # RM-751471 for the Cherokee as well as the new car kit # RM-98700 which is shown in the linked video. For Roadmaster base plates you can refer to the linked page that displays four kits for the various versions. Note that the Sterling tow bar's safety cable anchors...
    view full answer...

  • Removing Roadmaster Invisibrake Supplemental Braking From One Vehicle to Install on Another
  • Because you are removing the Roadmaster Invisibrake Supplemental Braking System # RM-8700 from your 2004 Jeep Wrangler, you will need to seal up the vacuum line on your 2004 Wrangler. You can do this a couple of different ways. You can leave the T-connector and then add a bolt and hose clamp to seal the hose or you can remove the T-connector and use a coupler and two hose clamps to seal the hose. The latter is my recommendation for a cleaner fix and you can use the check valve already...
    view full answer...

  • Need A 7-Way to 7-Way Cable To Fit Between My RV and 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited While Flat Towing
  • Sounds like you need a 7-way to 7-way wiring cable to connect your 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited to your RV when flat towing. You will need a 7-way plug and lead wire and a 7-way connector end. I recommend the WesBarg 7-Way, RV Style Connector # WG54006-043 and a Pollak Black Plastic, 7-Pole, RV-Style Trailer Connector # PK12706. You will have to wire the Pollak connector on the other end of the WesBerg cable to connect your RV and Jeep. I like the coil design of this cable because it...
    view full answer...

  • Will Wiring Technique Be the Same When Transferring Roadmaster InvisiBrake to 2020 Jeep Gladiator
  • Yes you can wire the lighting for the Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System # RM-8700 the same way on your 2020 Jeep Gladiator as you did on your Wrangler. As you can see by the cut out of the linked directions for the InvisiBrake, the wiring technique will be the same for all towed vehicles so you're set! The InvisiBrake is able to be transferred to your new Gladiator but you are going to need the Second Vehicle Kit for Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System # RM-98700 to...
    view full answer...


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Info for this part was:

Updated by:
Leah B
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Updated by:
Laura H
Photos by:
Jim W
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Test Fit:
Brent H
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C
Updated by:
Mike S
Updated by:
Isabelle B

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