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Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box

Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box

Item # PK52248
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This junction box provides a quick and easy way for you to connect the trailer plug to the trailer wiring. The box also makes your trailer connector simple to replace. 1-800-940-8924 to order Pollak accessories and parts part number PK52248 or order online at Free expert support on all Pollak products. Great prices and Fastest Shipping for Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box. Accessories and Parts reviews from real customers.
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  • Reviews (114)
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Pollak Accessories and Parts - PK52248

  • Trailer Wiring
  • Junction Box
  • Pollak

This junction box provides a quick and easy way for you to connect the trailer plug to the trailer wiring. The box also makes your trailer connector simple to replace.


  • Provides quick and easy way to wire trailer plug to trailer wiring
  • Allows simple replacement of trailer connector
  • Has black, ABS plastic construction


  • Box dimensions: 7.5" long x 3.75" wide x 2.5" tall
  • 1-Year limited warranty

52-248 Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box

Video of Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box Installation

Today in our Utility Trailer, we'll be installing the Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box, part number PK52248. Underneath our trailer here, we need to choose a location to mount our junction box. I'm going to go ahead and mount it just in this area right here. I'm only going to be using the top 2 holes, one on each side, to secure the box to the trailer. As you can see, the bottom hangs down past this particular trailer. We can also kind of go over the wires we're using. This trailer's already got the brake wires run, as well as the 4 flat wires run, the running lights and turn and brake signals. We'll go ahead and remove the cover. We got our location.

We'll then go ahead and take our paint marker here, mark the 2 areas that we'll need to drill a hole. Now that we have our 2 locations marked, we'll go ahead and drill them out. Now that we've got our 2 holes drilled, we can go ahead and mount our box here to the underside of the trailer. To mount our box, we're just using a screw and a nut on the backside to secure it to the frame. Now that we have the box nice and secured to the trailer, we can go ahead and begin the wiring process. Now that we've trimmed our wires down to length, go ahead and strip our break wire, take the jacketed part off of the top. Go ahead and remove the jacketed portion on our brake wire to expose our braking ground wire. I'll go ahead and take one of our open-hole grommets. We'll slide our wires through here.

We're going to use one of the solid ones down here on the bottom, but I'm just going to put a little slit in it so that stays tight up against these wires. On this particular junction box, it's not labeled which post does what. We can kind of choose however we want to attach the wires into which post. Both of these brown wires here are the running lights on the trailer. We're going to go ahead and twist them together and just use one ring terminal on it. We'll go ahead and put our ring terminal in place and we'll crimp it down. We'll go ahead and add it in line like that. Next, we'll go ahead and take our yellow wire, which is the driver's side or the left side brake and turn signal. We'll go ahead and add it in line like that. Next, we'll go ahead to the green wire, which is the passenger side brake and turn signal.

Next, we'll go ahead and add our brake line in, or the wire that will run back to the power brakes. This is the hot side or the side that will give power back to the brakes. To make things a little bit easier, we're going to space out the wires a little bit. We're going to go ahead and skip these 2 terminals. Go ahead and cut our ground wire down for the brakes. Next, we're going to need to go ahead and add a ground wire that will connect the trailer frame to the ground plug or the ground stud here on the junction box. We're going to go ahead and feed an extra ground wire in this opening right here that we ran our brake lines in.

Strip some wire back and we'll put another ring terminal on this end. We'll go ahead and add it in line like that. We're going to need to drill another hole here in the frame so that we can add a ring terminal to the end of this white wire, which is the ground wire, and attach it to the frame. Now that we've got our hole drilled here for the ground, go ahead and add a little bit larger ring terminal in place. Again, we'll just secure it to the frame using a nut and a bolt. Next we're ready to start wiring in our jacketed 7-wire. The jacketed 7-way wire that we'll be tying in with our junction box today is part number DW04914-1. Again, we'll take one of the round-hole rubber plugs here, put in the wire, and slide it into position. We're going to go ahead and add a zip tie right here around this wire to keep it from pulling out of the rubber grommet. We'll go ahead and take the brown wire off of this jacketed 7-wire, go ahead and strip some wire back and add a ring terminal in. We'll go ahead and put it on the stud that already has the brown wires, because this is the running light circuit. Once that's in place, we can go ahead and take one of the little locking nuts and tighten it down on the stud. Next, we're going to go ahead and take our yellow wire here, add a ring terminal to it. We'll be adding this in with the yellow wire, which would be the left turn and brake signal. Get that in place so we can go ahead and put a nut on there as well. Next, we'll take the green wire, which would be for the right brake and turn. We can go ahead and add it in with the other green wire. We'll go ahead and put a nut on that one as well. The next wire we'll be using is the blue wire, which would be for the break signal. We'll be tying that in with the wire that already has the black wire to it. Go ahead and take the white wire here coming from our jacketed 7-wire. Strip some wire back, add a ring terminal. We'll tie that in with the ground wires, which are the other 2 white wires already on the stud. Next, we're going to go ahead and connect the red wire, which could be used as a reverse light wire, but we're not going to hook anything up to the other side of it but we'll go ahead and connect it to one of our studs here. Finally, we'll take our black wire here, which will make it the 12-volt top on this jacketed 7-way. Go ahead and connect the black wire here to the other open stud, and nothing else to be connected to it for now. We'll go ahead and add a nut on each of these remaining studs for future use. Now that we have all of our wiring connections made, all that's left to do is put the cover on, and install the 4 bolts. That will do it for the installation of the Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box, part number PK52248 on our utility trailer.

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Customer Reviews

Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box - PK52248

Average Customer Rating:  4.6 out of 5 stars   (114 Customer Reviews)

This junction box provides a quick and easy way for you to connect the trailer plug to the trailer wiring. The box also makes your trailer connector simple to replace.


I bought one to install on newly refurbished trailer that need a 10 post junction box. Installed fine but when attempting to changing wiring 3 of the post stripped out. Ended up cutting wires to remove. Contacted company and told no returns or exchange. I ordered another from a different company with no issues. No longer a customer of this company.

Etrailer Expert

Jenny N.


This experience is certainly not what we expect to provide. I will have our Customer Service team reach out to you.


Good product for what it does. Wish it was a little thicker. Makes a clean wiring job possible. Mounted mine inside a tool box along with the brake emergency battery. Did away with the "boat trailer" wiring the manufacturer had installed.



Still doing good. Helps that it’s out of the weather and sun.


Using the Junction box cleared up the rat's nest that was provided by the rv manufacturer


Had to replace the cable connecting my Springdale travel trailer to the tow vehicle. I ordered the etrailer 50-67-005 cable and the PK52248 junction box. The original cable was terminated in a standard electrical box with all of the connections done with wire nuts. When I opened the electrical box and pulled the wires out to have a look-see, one of the white ground wires came out of the wire nut. This is not the first time I have had a "loose wire nut" problem with this travel trailed so I decided the new cable would be differently. The j box was mounted to a 2 X 6 steel tube so I used 1/4 inch self drilling screws to mount it. I also used 1/4 in. self drilling screws to mount the metal cable clamps to hold the cables, going into the box. I used a couple of pieces of 3m mounting tape on the back of the j box to hold it in place to the frame while installing the mounting screws. I also made a small label to go in the lid of the j box to show wire colors and function. There was going to be five ground wires connected so I made a small bridge out of 1/2 in X .062 brass to go on the two end posts. I think this made a cleaner installation. When everything was wired and checked out I sealed the open grommets with RTV. The intermittent problems with the cable are now fixed.


Nice terminal box. Cleaned up the wiring on a brand new cargo trailer that I bought where they had all the wires in a small box and wire noted together. Ground wire for the trailer brakes was not making contact. Connected everything in the new box with ring terminals and added a battery inside the trailer. Clean and neat, the way it should have come from the factory.


Over the years I have installed 10 or more of the ten pin connection boxes on other people’s trailers. This time it was on my 5th wheel. It is a great box and makes for a much nicer fix in the future. I also had to replace the 7 wire pig tail because the plug was pulled off. I bought the 6ft. Coiled cable. I used a 1/2 inch clamp to hold the cable at the box and a Connect-to-Protect to keep the cable up out of the weather. The products are great and look great too. Thank you, Philip


Very good product that made wiring my home made utility trailer easy. The box has plenty of room for your wires and long studs for those connections that need many wires, like the ground. There was also enough room above the studs for me to mount the Tow Ready 118158 converter to the cover and keep it protected. The 3 extra studs worked out perfectly to hook up the converter as well. Only thing that would make this better is if it included more solid grommets so you could make smaller holes in some or plug more of the openings, but some silicone sealant will fix this. I did most the wiring before mounting to the trailer, only had to connect the blue brake wires after mounting.


Very happy with these junction boxes, mount securely. Added dielectric grease to cover and around inserts to make sure water stays out. I don't expect to have any issues down the road.


Worked very well!


Great box for making all the connections for the plug harness, trailer brakes, and the brake battery and safety switch. etrailer has all the parts needed to rewire a trailer from plug to lights!!!



Excellent, I have organized my trailer wiring for lights,brakes, aux lights, and area lights.


I recommend this Great Product, very Versatile, open Architecture, Solid Construction!

Al W.


Excellent product very durable


I liked this terminal box for managing wiring on the back end of my truck. The previous owner did a hack job on the wiring when they installed an aftermarket bumper and headache rack so I used this to correct the problems they introduced. I repaired the wiring harness and then used an inline 7 pole 5th wheel splitter to run all 7 connections to the junction box rather than have taps in each of the factory wires. This let me take off multiple lights from the junction box with clean and easily maintainable ring connectors on the ends. I was able to safely wire the aftermarket blinkers and backup lights through the junction box rather than taps to maintain the integrity of the factory wiring harness.


I used this when replacing my seven round trailer connector. The ten terminals are a good idea. My trailer has a power winch, electric brakes with breakaway switch, 12volt power for inside the trailer, back up lights, and of course the required lights. Having all the available terminals made for easy wiring and clarity in wire runs. Much better than having a mess of wires in the battery box. This should be standard on all trailers.


Super fast shipping and exactly as advertised and what I wanted thanks again for everything


Etrailers catalogue provided a complete & accurate description of the 8 items purchased. Placing the order by phone was fast & efficient. Items arrived within 4 working days, no tax no shipping charge. Professional all around.

Pat M.


The EOH braking system works perfectly. You are my supplier of choice ifwhen I need additional trailer parts on the future.


Very robust built junction box. Thanks Etrailer


Used this junction box to rebuild the wiring system on a new trailer. Have used this type before and was impressed with the quality and ease of use. Made the new wiring much more secure and protected.

One year later and it's working well.


This was exactly the item I needed to make connections between trailer wiring, brake system and connector cable. Simplified maintenance and easy modification were my goals. Succeeded!


This junction box will work great to clean up the wire routing I have on my trailer and make it easier in the future to trouble shoot problems.

Tommy G.


So far so good, everything works great.


Still working great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


used this box to replace the old cracked one on my trailer and it does great.
My only problem is that the grommets provided are drilled out already, well two are solid ,but I have two holes now that need to be plugged to keep the weather suggestion is for pollack to include a few more solid grommets in the packaging.........other than that the terminals are solidly made and the box and hardware are all well made


I saw this on the website and bought it as to me it makes wiring the trailer easier and makes it easier to test for problems when they occur. My ATV trailer wiring has to be replaced due to much salt from the road. This made the project a snap and the box is well made. Fast shipping too.


Works great, mounted on the inside of the frame, had plenty of room for my wires and makes installing the new lights and IV cable a breeze.


Nice way to clean up trailer wiring. I wish it had a water proof gasket under the cover


The box was well made. Wiring installation was clean and looked good. etrailer is a good source for parts.

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this Pollak Accessories and Parts

  • Junction Box Replacement Recommendation for Trailer that Uses Cap Connectors for Trailer Wiring
    Cap connectors are not the best way to connect wires. The Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box # PK52248 would be a way better way to make the connections as opposed to what you have now. I attached a picture that shows the junction box wired up next to the picture you submitted to show the difference. I also attached an install video link for this as well.
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  • How to Connect Wiring to Marine Battery for Interior Lights of Enclosed Trailer to Work
    To charge the marine battery in your trailer you need to run some wiring from the pin in the 11 o'clock position on your trailer 7-Way to your marine battery (see attached photo). This should be the same wire that your breakaway kit is connected to. If you have a junction box like part # PK52248 inside your trailer then you will just need to connect your battery to that 12V power wire. This will charge your battery whenever your trailer 7-Way is connected to your truck. For your reverse...
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  • Comparing Regular, Fused, and Circuit Breaker Junction Boxes for Trailer Wiring
    Given that trailer wiring only consists of basic light functions, 12 volt power, and brake output a system of fuses is not necessary because it is easy to determine if something is not working. If there was a short, the way you would know with or without a fuse junction box is going to be the same either way. You still have to fix the short and in the case of a fused junction box replace the fuse. A fused junction box would prevent a short from going any further than the junction box....
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  • Size of Terminals in Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box Part # PK52248
    The terminals on the interior of the Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box are size 10, or .190 of an inch. You would need a ring terminal suitable for a # 10 stud for a 10-12 gauge wire.
    view full answer...
  • Why Are Their 7 and 10 Terminal Junction Boxes Made for Trailer Wiring
    I attached a picture of a 10 terminal junction box that is using every single available terminal. If you had turn signals that were separate from your trailer brake lights this would be the junction box to use along with the # 118158. Otherwise the 7 terminal box like part # 38656 would be all that you would need.
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  • Mounting Hole Dimensions For Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box # PK52248
    The Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box # PK52248 has mounting holes that are spaced 8-1/16" on center across the box and 3-1/4" on center vertically. The holes are 1/4" in diameter for your mounting hardware. The Bargman 7-Way, RV-Style Connector w/ 12' Long Coiled Cable # WG54006-046 is a great cable to wire into this junction box. The coiled design help to prevent the cord from dragging on the ground.
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  • Recommended Junction Box For Individual Trailer Brake Wiring
    My recommendation for the junction box is the Pollak 10 terminal Junction Box, # PK52248. This will give you individual terminals for your 8 contacts. I'd suggest using the other two for a hot supply line and a ground line so you can just add jumper wires within the junction box itself. Your application will be a customized one, but this additional junction box will allow you to have the simple troubleshooting you desire. I would not go smaller than 12 gauge wire for trailer brakes,...
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  • 7 Pin or 10 Pin Junction Box Recommendation for Wiring Up a Trailer
    The biggest difference between the two junction boxes that you referenced is the number of terminals. The # 38656 has 7 and the # PK52248 has 10. For a 7-way I would recommend you go with the 7 pin box part # 38656 since there would be no need for more circuits than you have. We don't carry the yellow marker (known as paint markers, available at local hardware stores), that you see in the attached video, but any marker or even a pencil could be used as long as it is visible to you. We...
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  • Junction Box To Wire Lighting on Flatbed Trailer
    Yes, the Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box part # PK52248 will work to wire up the lights on your flat bed trailer. The posts on this particular junction box are not labeled so you can connect your functions to the box on any of the posts. Since you are just doing lights, you can just leave the rest of the posts unused without any issues. You will need ring terminals part # 44-5310A to connect your wiring to the terminals.
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  • Replacement Trailer Wiring Junction Box For 1994 Featherlite Horse Trailer
    I did some research and was unable to find the white plastic you were referring to that holds a box for trailer wiring but may have a solution for you. We offer a trailer wiring junction box like part # 38656. This junction box has the junctions included and makes wiring a 6 or 7 way trailer connector easy. This box measures 7 x 3-1/2 x 2-1/4. For a 10 terminal junction box I recommend the Pollak Junction Box, part # PK52248. This box measures 7-1/2 x long x 3-3/4 wide x 2.5 tall. We...
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  • Brake Conversion from Hydraulic to Electric Brakes on a 1984 Shoreline Boat Trailer
    Thanks for your recent purchases and sending us a picture! It's always better to add electric brakes on both axles because it reduces the stress on all components. You will need a 7-way molded connector # H20046 for your trailer to plug into your 2002 Ford F-150's 7-way connector. This connector is 8 feet long. I highly recommend getting a junction box like # 38656 or # PK52248 because it's an easy way to connect the wires from trailer connector to wiring for 6- or 7- connectors. It...
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  • How To Run Grounds for Lights on an Aluminum Frame Trailer
    It sounds like you may be wondering how to attach the grounds on your trailer because it has an aluminum frame which you have either read or experienced issues with. If that is the case then I recommend you first use a junction box like the Pollak 10-Terminal Junction Box part # PK52248. Once you have this you can then run all of your lights and trailer connector to a single ground point on the coupler with a ring terminal like the part # DW05762-1 (junction box to coupler) and extra wire...
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  • 2-wire to 3-wire Converter for Trailer Lights
    The Tow Ready Converter # 118158 will work well for your application. This converter needs to be installed downstream, so to speak, of your trailer connector. This converter box is not designed to be exposed to the elements, so you will want to mount it somewhere on the trailer where it is protected. You could also use a fuse box, like # PK52248, to protect the converter. If the ground wire from your trailer connector is already grounded to the trailer, the converter's ground wire can...
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  • 2-Wire to 3-Wire Converter for RV with Combined Lighting and Trailer with Separate Lighting
    I have a solution for you, but there is not a plug-in adapter to convert your RV's taillights from combined wiring to separate wiring. If you are pulling a trailer with separate lighting, you will want to use a 2-wire to 3-wire converter. I recommend the Tow Ready Vehicle to Vehicle Tail Light Converter # 118158. This system will install below the 7-way trailer connector # H20046 on the trailer. The converter will keep the trailer lights as a 3-wire, separate light system while they work...
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  • Replacement Wiring and Junction Boxes for Gooseneck Trailer
    We have jacketed 7-way wire like with part # DW04914-1 which we offer by the foot and also we have junction boxes like # PK52248 which you could use in all of the junction box locations you mentioned.
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  • Installing Trailer Connector and Junction Box on 20ft Gooseneck Trailer
    If you click on the link I've provided, you can see our Trailer Wiring FAQ article, which will show you exactly how the connector on your gooseneck trailer should be wired. I took the liberty of looking in on your order, and saw that you're using a # HM20048 wiring connector and a junction box, which is exactly what I'd recommend. I've provided a wire color code chart for the # HM20048 connector. I've also linked you to an install video for the junction box, which will show you exactly...
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  • Recommended Wiring, Junction Box, And Breakaway Kit For 18-Ft Tandem Flat Bed Trailer
    To re-wire your 18-ft trailer you will need a few things. I recommend installing a junction box like part # PK52248. You can run your trailer connector like part # H20044 to the junction box and use the terminals in the box to run the wiring to the trailer. For 7-way jacketed wire I recommend part # DW04914-1. This is sold by the foot. The junction box will also make it easier to install and use a breakaway kit like part # HM20001. This kit includes a charger and a weather-resistant...
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  • What is the Wire Gauge on 10 Inch Electric Trailer Brake Magnets
    The magnet wires on Electric Trailer Brake Assembly # A35W42B are 18 gauge. The wiring going to the brakes from a trailer connector is usually larger such as 10 gauge # 10-2-1.
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  • Converting From Surge Brakes to Electric Brakes on 2012 K-Z Spree Travel Trailer
    We can start with the over-under conversion kit since that is pretty simple. Since you have a 2-3/8" axle you will need the Dexter # K71-384-00. This will allow you to mount the leaf springs on top of the axle on your 2012 K-Z Spree. Moving on to the brakes, I'm assuming with your 2-3/8" axle that you have 3,500 lb axles. Make sure to verify this information. Assuming that is the case, you will need the following: -Electric Trailer Brake Kit - Self-Adjusting - 10" - Left and Right Hand...
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Info for this part was:

Employee Mike L
Expert Research:
Mike L
Employee Jameson C
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Employee Jeffrey L
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Employee Tyler C
Written by:
Tyler C
Employee Andrew L
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B

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