1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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  5. 2.440 Inch
Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles

Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles

Item # XLPROLUBE2440KIT
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles 2.440 Inch XLPROLUBE2440KIT
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Kit converts existing trailer hubs from grease to oil. Fits 5,200-lb and 6,000-lb axles. Includes oil caps, seals, and oil. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Kodiak. Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles part number XLPROLUBE2440KIT can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (54)
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Kodiak Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - XLPROLUBE2440KIT

  • Caps
  • Oil Cap
  • Kodiak
  • 2.440 Inch

Kit converts existing trailer hubs from grease to oil. Fits 5,200-lb and 6,000-lb axles. Includes oil caps, seals, and oil.


Features:

  • Converts trailer from grease to oil with your existing hubs
  • Fits 5,200-lb and 6,000-lb axles
  • Includes 2 oil caps, 2 seals, and (1) 8-oz bottle of oil
  • Seal dimensions:
    • Inner diameter: 2.25"
    • Outer diameter: 3.376"


XLPROLUBE2440-K Kodiak XL ProLube Kit

Replaces XLPROLUBE2440KITIT





Video of Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles - XLPROLUBE2440KIT

Average Customer Rating:  4.3 out of 5 stars   (54 Customer Reviews)

Kit converts existing trailer hubs from grease to oil. Fits 5,200-lb and 6,000-lb axles. Includes oil caps, seals, and oil.

- XLPROLUBE2440KIT
by:

Bought new axel parts and brakes bigger wheels for my boat trailer. My existing axel was 20 years old and never was adequate for the weight it hauled causing wheel bearings to wear out and the chance of loosing a wheel. This was the most economical way to repair as a new trailer was so expensive. All the parts I needed were available and went together beautifully. Very happy with etrailer, this is not the first time I have ordered from them great option for any parts you need. 700489



- XLPROLUBE2440KIT
by:

Haven’t installed yet but kit is excellent quality 590601



- XLPROLUBE2440KIT
by:

Exactly what i ordered shipped promply and shipping price ws minimal. Web site easy to use. Shop at etrailer anytime i can. Free shipping on most of my larger purchases which I love. Highly recommend etrailer. 571179



- XLPROLUBE2440KIT
by:

I’ll give it two stars and the benefit of the doubt since I can’t guarantee that the assembly was perfect on my end. It’s a great concept, however the pressure required to install the two part seals in the hubs almost guarantee some form of damage to the plastic portion of the seal back. My recommendation for anyone trying this product would be to use a press with a flat surface to push the seal in evenly as attempting to use a board or even an automotive seal tool is pointless. Again, I liked the concept but out of the four I initially installed and two subsequent seals, I have yet to have one last more than a trip locally without beginning to seep. 468510



- XLPROLUBE2440KIT
by:

Product delivered on time and included everything I ordered. Great service! 295131



- xlprolube1980
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Perfect fit for my Coastline Boat trailer. I like the ability to "see" inside. Appear to be water tight. Great product. 647462



- xlprolube1980
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


I have changed all my trailers over to this system and I highly recommend it,, you will not be disappointed. 691669



- XLPROLUBE1980KIT
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Great product you can see lube level at a glance you do not have to pack the wheel bearing every year or carry a grease gun with you all the time easy to install, last set lasted 7 years before the seal started to leak. 540128



- XLPROLUBE1980KIT
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Good quality, at a fair price. The blue lube and blue tinted outer caps make it a little difficult to see the level of oil inside. I would recommend this product. its a great idea. 473737


Comments
Still works fine after a year
Pete D - 02/09/2019

49317

- xlprolube1980
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Fit was good. But was only really lookin for replacement screw cap 567094



- XLPROLUBE1980KIT
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


seals look like a very good seal will put them in tomorrow 356802



- xlprolube1980
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


We are completely satisfied with the items we have purchased from you. Your shipping is fast and it has been a pleasure doing business with you. 451239


Comments
I ordered these for my son’s boat trailer. They are doing just fine.
Sharon - 11/11/2018

45634

- XLPROLUBE1980KIT
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


I installed the oil bath system per the instructions, it was easy to install, the tips I would give anyone is to take your time when installing the rear seal. Its very tight, so take your time and use a solid round object and make sure it goes on perfectly straight. It was all straight forward as far as installation, what I found different was after installation. I noticed that instead of the seal rotating over the axel, the seal stays affixed to the axel, and the outer race, between hub and seal is what moves. I've never seen this before. So I called etrailer and spoke to customer service. They checked and said because this is an oil bath system its normal for the seal to stay stationary and the movement is between hub and seal. I spent a lot of time cleaning the axel were the seal normally rides. However it seams you don't have to. I hope they are right. I'm going to follow-up after I haul some heavy loads and let you know how it goes. Thanks 383965


Comments
After a year I am very happy with the Kodiak XL pro lube kit. I’ve made three 1200 miles trips and other shorter trips with no problems at all. The one issue I had, that turned out to be a self inflicted installation problem my fault was that I didn’t bend the cotter pin back far enough. The outer cover is a high quality aluminum, when the wheel turns the outer cover turns and the cotter pin stays stationary. What happened was the cotter pin rubbed on the inside of the aluminum outer cover. So when I checked the oil after hauling a heavy load I saw what I thought was metal flakes in the oil. I thought the bearings where shedding chrome flakes. But after calling Kodiak tech support and talking to their support team, they said check the oil with a magnet, if the flakes are magnetic it could be the bearing, but if it’s not it’s probably the cotter pin rubbing the inside of the outer cover. And that’s what it was. All I did was jack the opposite side of the trailer and drained and flushed the oil out the service cap, made sure the cotter pin what pushed all the way in, and reserviced with oil. It has been flawless ever since. I highly recommend this conversion to a wet bearing.
Glenn J - 05/23/2018

38824

- XLPROLUBE1980KIT
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Leaked on brand new hubs - stick with g rease. 560238



- XLPROLUBE1980KIT
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Got the items today 04/10/2020. Installed with no problems. Only two issues with the kit are, (1) THE INSTRUCTIONS LOOK AS IF THEY WERE COPIED WITH NO INK IN THE COPIER THEY ARE SO FADED OUT YOU REALLY READ THEM VERY WELL TO SAY THE LEAST. (2) AS WITH ANOTHER IDENTICAL KIT THE REAR OF PLASTIC COVERS THAT SCREW INTO THE ALUMINUM HUB BODY HAVE TO BE GROUND TO FIT, THEY ARE TOO LONG IF LEFT AS IS THEY WILL SCREW INTO HUB BODY AND HIT CASTLE NUT WHICH HOLD THE ENTIRE HUB ASSEMBLY IN PLACE ON TO THE SPINDLE, AS A RESULT, WHEN YOU TURN THE WHEEL ASSEMBLY IT WILL AUTOMATICALLY UNSCREW THE CAP AND YOUR OIL WILL POOR OUT. These kits work great but you definitely need some mechanical ability to put them on. 777236



- xlprolube1980
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Good Spare 777235



- xlprolube1980
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Came in a timely manner 775475



- XLPROLUBE1980KIT
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


This is my second trailer I have used this wet bearing set up on and I have had no problems. Just don’t over tighten the caps. They just need to be seated firmly, not torqued. Great system. 774954



- xlprolube1980
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Totally satisfied with the product. Had to modify the caps but I'm thinking it's due to the spindle and not a fault with the product. A minor problem with the rubber plug keeps it from being a 5 star 768359



- xlprolube1980
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Very quick shipping and quality product. This cap fit my Rockwell American possilube hub just as the original. 718329



- xlprolube1980
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


As alway etrailer was very prompt sending the product out. Hubs were packaged well to avoid damage during shipping. 690707



- XLPROLUBE1980KIT
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Product will fit easy grease spindles. I didnt use the oil supplied due too its very thin. I used lucus hub oil instead. 688432



- xlprolube1980
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


I purchased 4 of these to do all my bearing on the trailer when they went bad. I have had to us three of them on the same wheel, as it kepts leaking after a couple of months. It is always around the rubber seal in the front of the hub. None of my original hubs have gone bad in that time frame. I need to find a different brand before I get stranded somewhere I can't fix it. 633960


Comments
According to Kodiak, Its more likely that the silver oil bath body is faulty than 3 different caps.
-- Mike L - 04/23/2019

54341

- XLPROLUBE1980KIT
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Great customer service from etrailer and especially from the CSR rep. Donna P. thank you. 616967



- xlprolube1980
by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Very helpful! 605956


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Ask the Experts about this Kodiak Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Converting Standard 7K Grease Hubs to Oil Bath Hubs
    Initially what you need to do is clean out all of the grease in your hub, on/in the bearings, and on the spindle. Once that is done you simply swap out the grease seal for the oil seal included in the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT (which has a 2.25" ID and 3.376" OD) and reinstall everything. You do need to make sure that the ID of the oil seal matches up with your current system so that it keeps your oil from leaking. If you are needing to replace the bearings and seals as...
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  • Parts Needed to Convert Dexter 4,400 lb Grease Hubs to Oil Bath
    We have the kit part # XLPROLUBE2440KIT which comes with the oil bath style caps that will fit your hub and oil, but for seals you'd have to use the part # RG06-050 as the seals of that kit are too large.
    view full answer...
  • Does Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT Come with Everything Needed to Convert to Oil Bath
    Is there a reason you want to convert to oil bath? I personally don't like to recommend oil bath over grease as with grease if you have a seal issue you'll be able to get home to fixe it as the grease isn't going to just all pour out whereas with oil if the seal goes out you lose all lubrication and the hub is damaged within a few miles. That said all you need is the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE2440KIT as it comes with everything needed. The seal...
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  • Can Dexter 5,200 lb Trailer Hub be Converted to Oil Bath
    To convert a 5,200 lb Dexter hub to be oil bath all you really need is the kit part # XLPROLUBE2440KIT. This comes with the correct cap and seal as well as the oil needed to make the conversion.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Disc Brake Hub Kit To Use With Kodiak XL ProLube Kit
    The Kodiak XL ProLube Kit, part # XLPROLUBE2440KIT is not a fit on the # K2HR712 disc brake kit you mentioned because the hub is not threaded on the # K2HR712. I do have a solution that will work for you. I recommend part # K2HR79. This kit will fit the same size spindle, has threaded hubs which will work with the lube kit, and is rated for the same size wheels as the # K2HR712. The only difference is the size of the wheel bolts. The # K2HR79 has 9/16-inch bolts, where the # K2HR712...
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  • Could Kodiak XL ProLube Kit XLPROLUBE2440KIT Fit 7,000 lb Dexter D70 Hub
    If the bore on your hub matches what the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT is designed to fit at 2.44 inches this kit would work well in the hub. When picking out replacement caps or in this case using this kit to convert to oil bath all that really matters is matching the seal and hub bore dimensions. The seal dimensions are 2.25 inch inner and 3.376 inch outer.
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  • Can Kodiak XL ProLube Kit Work on Dexter EZ Lube Axle
    As long as your existing hub features a 2.440 hub bore diameter you can indeed use the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT that you referenced on your EZ Lube Axle. As you mentioned, you may need to remove the zerk fitting to allow for clearance with the cap but that would be the only reason it might not fit right out of the box. This kit includes 2 seals that have an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches so you will also want to verify that this matches...
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  • How to Change Grease Setup to Oil Setup for LoadRite Axle 6009.106
    To convert your grease setup on your Tie-Down axle to an oil setup you will essentially just replace the grease seals and caps with the oil seals and caps that come with the kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT you referenced. Aside from that the only other thing you need to do is completely clean out all of the grease where these will be installed. The bearings, spindle, and inside of the hub need to be grease free because sometimes the grease will react with the oil and actually damage your setup. Please...
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  • How Often Should Oil in Trailer Oil Bath Hubs be Changed
    The common recommendation with oil bath hubs is to not mess with them at all as long as they aren't leaking or the oil isn't milky looking. Some say to change every two years but most will say that as long as everything looks good just leave it be. Also 50 weight gear oil is recommended. I am sure there is an Amsoil product for that.
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  • Do Bearings Still Need to be Greased Before Installing Oil Bath Kit?
    No you should not grease your bearings before installing the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT to convert your hubs from grease to oil. This kit fits 5,200 lb and 6,000 lb axles and comes with 2 oil caps, 2 seals and an 8 oz. bottle of oil.
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  • Does Kodiak XLPROLUBE2440KIT Fit Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712 to Convert to Oil-Bath
    I apologize for any confusion but the # XLPROLUBE2440KIT would be exactly what you would need to convert the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712 to oil-bath as that's what it's designed to do. The included caps have a drive-in section that is threaded on the other end so that it can fit the hub and then also seal like oil-bath hubs.
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  • How to Determine the Correct Oil Bath Cap
    To figure out the correct oil bath cap, you will need to know your axle's capacity or size of your hub bore. For a 3,500 lb hub or 1.98" hub bore you would use Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap # XLPROLUBE1980, or for the kit you would use # XLPROLUBE1980KIT. If your axle had a capacity of 5,200 lbs or 6,000 lbs, or 2.44" hub bore you would want Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap # XLPROLUBE2440 or if you wanted the kit you would use # XLPROLUBE2440KIT. I've added...
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  • Availability of Oil Bath Hub/Rotor for 6K Axle on EZ Loader Trailer
    The rotors included with the Kodiak 12 Inch # K2HR526DS Disc Brake Kit you referenced can easily be converted from grease to oil bath hubs by using the the Kodiak XL ProLube kit part # XLPROLUBE2440KIT. The ProLube kit includes 2 oil caps, two oil seals and an 8 oz bottle of oil. The kit is compatible with the disc brake kit I've recommended. The disc brake kit uses the Kodiak 225 calipers you referenced. The # K2HR526DS kit will be compatible if your existing hub/rotor uses a 25580...
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  • Will Kodiak XL ProLube Kit Fit Kodiak Trailer Hub KH42655S
    Yes, the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT will fit Kodiak Trailer Hub # KH42655S. I have linked videos of both products for you. The XL ProLube kit is more than just seals. It is meant to convert the hub to and oil-bath style so you would not grease the bearings. Also you would not use a dust cap with this set up. The proper caps have to be see-through with a plug in them to check/add oil. They are also included with the ProLube kit.
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  • Which Oil Bath Cap Do I Need on a 2003 EZ Loader Trailer
    In order to determine the correct oil bath cap you'll need to measure your hub bore or find the weight capacity of your axle. If you have a 3500 lbs. axle or a 1.98 inch hub bore you will want part # XLPROLUBE1980 or # XLPROLUBE1980KIT for a kit that includes caps, seals, and oil. For 5200 or 6000 lbs. axles that have a hub bore of 2.440 inches you will need # XLPROLUBE2440 or # XLPROLUBE2440KIT for the kit.
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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Written by:
Laura H
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Mike S

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