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Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Raw Finish - 8,000-lb Dexter

Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Raw Finish - 8,000-lb Dexter

Item # K2HR89D
Our Price: $588.86
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Shipping Weight: 121 lbs
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9/16" Bolts are included with this 2-assembly brake kit. Machine-finished rotors, e-coated calipers and e-coated mounting brackets fit 8,000-lb Dexter axles and 16" and larger wheels. 13" Rotor features 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern. 1-800-940-8924 to order Kodiak accessories and parts part number K2HR89D or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Kodiak products. Great prices and Fastest Shipping for Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Raw Finish - 8,000-lb Dexter. Accessories and Parts reviews from real customers.
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Kodiak Accessories and Parts - K2HR89D

  • Trailer Brakes
  • Disc Brakes
  • Brake Assembly
  • Hub and Rotor Assembly
  • Kodiak
  • LH
  • RH
  • 8 on 6-1/2
  • 8000 lbs

9/16" Bolts are included with this 2-assembly brake kit. Machine-finished rotors, e-coated calipers and e-coated mounting brackets fit 8,000-lb Dexter axles and 16" and larger wheels. 13" Rotor features 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern.


Features:

  • Brake assemblies make it easy to upgrade from drum to disc brakes for better performance
    • More consistent stopping, even at highway speeds
    • Dramatically shorter stopping distance
  • Maintenance costs are lower than for drum brakes
    • Fewer moving parts to maintain, repair and replace
  • Integral hub-and-rotor assembly is 1 piece
    • Minimizes lateral runout to prevent warping
    • Provides smooth ride with balanced hub and rotor
    • Uses industry-standard bearings and seals (sold separately) - races included
    • Prevents heat-related damage with vented design that effectively dissipates heat
    • Includes wheel studs - lug nuts sold separately
  • E-coat finish on calipers and brackets provides corrosion resistance for freshwater and limited saltwater use
  • Cast iron calipers are self-adjusting for smooth, equal braking
    • Cast iron construction does not flex like aluminum
    • Low-drag design retracts piston farther than other calipers for a cooler-running brake
    • Silver-cadmium-plated piston is 2-1/2" in diameter - 30 percent larger than other brands
      • More braking torque than the competition
    • High-performance, ceramic brake pads
  • Ductile iron mounting brackets provide strength and durability
    • Side-support design ensures that load is placed on bracket, not bolts
    • Extra embossing for additional thread contact ensures tight, secure mounting for caliper guide bolts
    • 4-Bolt brake flange mounting configuration - weld-on flange sold separately
  • Kit includes 2 full brake assemblies
    • 2 Machine-finished, cast iron rotor-and-hub assemblies
    • 2 E-coated, cast iron calipers
    • 2 E-coated, ductile iron caliper-mounting brackets
    • 4 Stainless steel caliper-mounting bolts
  • Hydraulic brake actuator and lines (sold separately) are required for brakes to be activated
    • Requires psi rating of at least 1,500


Specs:

  • Fits:
    • Axle capacity: 8,000 lbs
      • #42 Spindle
    • Axle type: Dexter
    • Wheel size: 16" and larger
  • Bolt pattern: 8 on 6-1/2"
  • Rotor diameter: 13"
  • Brake flange configuration: 4 bolt
  • Wheel stud diameter: 9/16"
  • 3-Year warranty


Bearing, Race and Seal Information

  • Bearings (sold separately)
    • Inner bearing: 25580
    • Outer bearing: 02475
  • Races (included)
    • Inner race: 25520
    • Outer race: 02420
  • Seal: RG06-070 (sold separately)
    • Inner diameter: 2.250"
    • Outer diameter: 3.376"

Disc Brakes

More and more people are switching their trailers over to disc brakes, and with good reason. Disc brakes deliver consistent braking - even at highway speeds - unlike drum brakes, which often show a substantial drop in braking torque at higher speeds. In addition, disc brakes offer a substantially shorter stopping distance than drum brakes. Disc brake calipers have only one moving part, rather than the many found in drum brakes. This means that there are fewer parts to maintain, fewer parts to get damaged and fewer parts to have to repair or replace, thus reducing maintenance costs.


Integral Hub-and-Rotor Assemblies

The integral hub-and-rotor is made from cast iron, matching SAE specifications. Cast iron is ideal for high-temperature operations and offers a favorable friction coefficient to ensure adequate stopping power. Kodiak's rotors are vented to effectively dissipate heat, dramatically reducing the incidence of heat-related damage. Furthermore, machined disc brakes minimize the chance of contamination between the hub and rotor, resulting in excellent performance and long life.


Calipers

Kodiak calipers are constructed of cast iron to prevent flexing. Less flex means more braking torque, resulting in smooth, even braking every time. The corrosion-resistant stainless steel piston is 30 percent larger than standard pistons, ensuring shorter stopping distance and increased torque. In addition, the unique low-drag design of Kodiak's calipers allows the piston to retract farther than in most standard models, giving you a cooler-running brake.


Mounting Brackets

Designed for axles with 4-bolt brake flange configurations, the included mounting brackets are made of heavy-duty ductile iron that is embossed to provide additional threading for guide bolts. The added thread strength ensures a tighter, more secure connection between the caliper and bracket. Another unique feature of Kodiak's brackets is the side-support angle, which guarantees that the load is carried by the bracket, rather than the bolts.



2/H-133-8D-9-REE-K Kodiak Disc Brakes - 2 Wheel Set - Integral Hub and Rotor - Standard Automotive Finish - 9/16" Wheel Bolts - 8,000 lbs - Dexter Axle

Replaces 2/HRCM-133-8D-9

Installation Details K2HR89D Installation instructions



Video of Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Raw Finish - 8,000-lb Dexter

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Kodiak Disc Brake Kit Installation Review

Hi there, trailer owners. Today we're going to be taking a look at Kodiak's Disc Brake Kit. This kit is designed for 8000 pound axles. You get a 13-inch rotor with an 8 x 6.5 bolt pattern. It's available in either a raw finish like you see here or a dacromet finish. The kit comes with a full set up for one axle, so if you have multiple axles on your trailer you can pick up as many kits as you need.Disc brakes are going to give you superior performance over your typical drum brakes that come on your trailer.

This is mainly due to having increased surface area. Our pads here squeeze on each side. We get really good contact. With shoes, as the shoes spread out, you normally only get a little bit of contact on each side of the shoe. If you've ever taken them apart after they've worn down, you'll see they're significantly worn usually on the tops or the bottoms but not on the other side because you don't get that much surface area contact.

That's going to decrease your stopping distance since we're going to have more stopping power here with these brakes. And since these use a hydraulic setup, you get a smoother brake application so it feels more natural when you're stopping.These are also going to be less maintenance than what your drum brakes are going to be. Drum brakes, even though most of them say that they are self-adjusting, the self adjusters on them, they just don't typically work as well as you would like them to. They sound great in theory, but a lot of times they only adjust when backing your trailer up, and you usually need to do a pretty good back up and stop to make the adjuster wheel even adjust. There's a lot of situations under normal driving that you're just not going to get that and it's just not going to adjust, and you're going to have to do it manually.

There's also a lot more parts inside of your drum brake system, so if you do take it apart, you have to do any repairs, it's a lot more work than with our setup here.Here we've got the old drums that we had removed from it, and you can see it's got all these parts in it. You've got your magnet here for the electronic brakes. You've got multiple springs, and when this one came off, when I took the hub off, the spring was actually sitting inside there. And you can see here where it started to chew up on our shoe. All these parts, they can fall apart.

Again, if you have to put this back together and stuff, you have to get all these springs set up back in the right spot. It's just a big, old mess. It's a lot of work, and the performance just isn't even close to what it's going to be with the disc break system.The only moving part that we've got here is our caliper that squeezes the brake pads together against the rotor using hydraulic pressure. Changing brake pads is easier than changing shoes on a drum brake setup. There's just two bolts and your caliper comes off.They are pre-equipped with caps that work with easy lube axles. So if you do have those, that's really nice. The rubber cap here will just pop out. And then you can easily maintain your bearings by greasing them through the opening here. Now, bearings don't come included with your rotors, but we've got various kits available here at etrailer.com, so you can get the appropriate bearing that's going to match your new rotor as well as the spindle on your axle.The caliper mounting brackets are designed to work with your existing flange, so you can reuse your hardware when you take your old drum brake system off. The brake pads that come included with it are going to be ceramic, so that does help increase the life of the pad. It's going to be stronger than your traditional brake pads. The rotors do come with the races for the bearings pre-installed in them so you don't have to worry about driving in any races. That's done for you. The bearing kits we have here will just drop right in. And our caliper here does have a very large piston in it, which helps increase the surface area that enforce pushing against the brake pads, clamping them against our rotor.Here you can see our piston with its two and a half inch diameter. Our brake caliper, as well as our caliper bracket, are all e-coated to ensure rust and corrosion doesn't occur on our parts. The bracket is going to be made of a ductile iron, and our calipers are going to be made from a cast iron.The mounting hardware for the caliper is made of a stainless steel, and this is really nice because our caliper does need to slide on these pins here. These bolts don't just hold this solid. The caliper does need to slide on these pins back and forth, and that's how it allows itself to clamp and then loosen and keep our brake pads from dragging on either side of the rotor. Sometimes if you have a bolt that's made of other materials, it can corrode, it can inhibit the sliding motion and potentially cause your caliper to bind on one side of the rotor, wearing down that pad and decreasing the life. With a stainless steel set up, it's going to keep that corrosion off of there, so that way it's going to have nice smooth operation for a long time. Our rotor is also a cast iron, and you can see its nice machine surface.Now one of the things you do need to keep in mind when installing a disc brake system is that it does require hydraulic pressure to activate the caliper, and it does require a higher pressure than what a drum brake system would. So if you are heading a drum brake system already on your trailer that is hydraulic, you will likely need to step up the hydraulic pressure to make this system work. I highly recommend HydraStar's 1600 psi actuator for this system, as the minimum requirements for these is 1500 psi.This kit's designed for an 8000 pound axle with a number 42 spindle. It has to have 16 inch or larger wheels. The bolt pattern is going to be an 8 x 6.5, so you want to make sure that fits your wheels. It has a brake flange on the back that uses four bolts, and that's usually your standard. Our wheel studs here are a 9/16ths in diameter. So you do want to keep that in mind as well. You may need to purchase new lug nuts if your old system did not have the same size studs here.Now the install of swapping over your drums to your disc brake set up here really isn't too bad. We're going to go over that here now. You will need to lift up your trailer. We'll go over safe lifting techniques as well as how to get these assemblies installed.Once you get your brakes installed, you will need hydraulic lines that go to them to power them up. If you don't have that, you can get those here at etrailer.com.To begin our installation, we are going to need to remove our wheels. So to do that, you're going to have to have your vehicle jacked up high enough so the wheels are off the ground. When lifting it, you'll want to make sure you lift it by the frame, and we're going to need to do this on all four of our wheels. You can go ahead and lift the whole thing up or you could do one side at a time. It's probably easier if you just lift the whole thing up because this is a pretty big job and we're going to need to be underneath. So I'd recommend at each corner on the frame of your trailer, jack it up and then place jack stands under it to support it where the wheels are off the ground.Now we're on a lift here in the shop, but you could use your leveling jacks at home if you got them installed. If they don't lift them up high enough to get the wheels on the ground, you could always place blocks of wood underneath, and make sure you've got ones large enough to fit the diameter of your pad. Now once you've got it lifted up though, if you do use your leveling jacks you still want to make sure you have jack stands under the frame because we don't want to trust being underneath a vehicle being supported by hydraulic pressure. We want to have a solid stand underneath.Now that we've got our wheel off though, just remove the lug nuts and set it aside. One of the things you're going to notice here is that the cap is missing. On this particular vehicle here, whoever serviced it last, they over-tightened the cap. So you can see here where the threads used to be, where it's threaded in. They're actually broke off and inside of our hub there. So normally you would just take a pair of channel locks or pliers and just undo this. If you've got a socket big enough, you can do that as well. You just unthread that. Since ours was already broken off though, we need to get ours out of there. We're just going to use a screwdriver here. These things normally aren't threaded in very tight or anything. See, it's just going to spin right out of there. So, I'm going to get this out of the way, because with it being threaded in there it's likely going to hang up on our bearing when we go to take it out. So we're just going to get it out now.Now it's no big deal that this one here is broken because we do receive new ones with our brake kits. So we are prepared there. Once you get down here to the outside it gets a little trickier, but there it goes. It's out of the way, so we can move on now.Once you've got your cap off, so you can access what's inside here, we'll need to take out the cotter pin that's holding our nut in place. You can see the pin here. So we're just going to bend it back upright, and then we can just push that pin out of there. It's going to come out the bottom. One of the things you can do if you're having a difficult time getting this pin out is the nut's usually not very tight, so you can either spin it by hand, or I usually use channel locks just to keep myself from getting dirty.Just move it a little bit, whichever way we need to move it to relieve some pressure on it, to make it easier to get the pin out of there. Once the pin is out, we can then remove the nut. Down below on the floor here, I've got a shop towel laid out so I can set all my stuff on it. This keeps you from getting grease all over the place. And it's also nice to have for setting just your parts and tools and stuff on not only to keep the mess on here, but since this is pretty much just wheel bearing grease, we can also set our other parts on here and that'll keep dirt and other debris from getting into our new parts. So what I'd like to do is to just pull it out slightly. You can see our bearing starting to walk its way out. Once you've got it pulled out slightly, we can then take a screwdriver in here and start to pop it out some. We can get it a little bit further.Sometimes you get caught up a little bit on the brake shoes inside, but we're looking to just get it out just enough like this. So we keep ourselves from getting dirty, we can stick our screwdriver in there and then just set it down. We can now take our whole assembly off, and it's just going to pull right off. You may have some dragging on your brake shoes. If you have so much dragging that you can't get the thing off, you may need to go in and loosen up the brakes. But in a lot of cases, they're not going to be that tight and you're just going to be able to slide it off like that. We'll then just set this aside as we're not going to need anything out of that. Minimize mess, we're going to go ahead and wipe the spindle off here.And you can actually see some of the grease here, built up a little bit on the inside. So our grease seal was leaking a little bit on our old brakes. We're going to get new grease seals with our kit though, so not a big deal there. Four bolts hold our brake assembly on that we're going to be removing. We're going to use a three quarter inch socket to remove them. And on the backside, there's going to be nuts that's also three quarter inch. So we're going to want a wrench on that side to hold while we take it off. You'll want to keep this hardware because we are going to reuse it to attach our new brake components. I'm just going to take the rest of these out now.Now that we've got all the hardware removed, the only thing that's holding our brake assembly on here is the wiring around back where it attaches to the magnet. We're just going to cut off the wiring from the magnet here. So right there. Cut both of these wires. And now our whole assembly is just going to come off of there. Sometimes it doesn't come off just quite that easy. You might have to tap it with a little bit of a hammer just to break it loose because it gets a little stuck around the flange from time to time. So we're going to go ahead and clean the rest of the grease off of here now. We're just using some brake clean, just to get all that off of there, especially since this one had a leaking seal.Just get all that stuff out of the way. We don't want any of this potentially getting onto our rotors and stuff while we're putting things on. We can always clean it off if we do, but minimizing mess just helps keep everything a little bit easier going forward. We can now start mounting our new brake hardware on. This is our caliper bracket. This has to go on before we put the rotor on. You'll see here it is labeled. This is the outside. And the orientation of it is going to be dependent upon your axles. We've got 8,000 pound axles, so we're going to put ours at the position that faces towards the rear of our vehicle. We're going to be like this. We're then going to attach it using the hardware that we had just removed to take off our old brakes. If you have a different size axle, you may want to refer to the instructions as there may be different orientations where you need to mount this bracket. We can then go back and tighten on our hardware.Now, before we can put our new disc brake rotor on here, we have to have bearings put in it. And we don't want to reuse our old bearings. The old ones could potentially be damaged. They may not be the right size. You want to make sure you've got the proper bearings to match your components. If we look at the backside of the inner race on our bearings, we'll have part number information on there. So you want to take the old bearing that you had removed from your old brake system, clean up one of those and get an idea of what the numbers are on it so you can ensure that you know the specs of that bearing. Because what this is going to provide your old bearing is going to give you the inside diameter that we need to fit onto our axle spindle. The outside diameter that matches your new brakes, you'll be able to find in the information on our website so you can ensure that you've got the appropriate bearing that's going to match both your axle, as well as your new brake assembly.To be safe, it's a good idea to check your bearings on one of your wheels before placing your order so that way you can ensure you get the correct bearings, because nothing sucks more than getting in here to do the brake full job install just to find out you've got the wrong parts and you've ripped everything apart and you can't go back together. So I do recommend just taking one off. You can always put that one back together if you take it off, but you can get the proper numbers to ensure you get the proper parts. Well, now I need to pack our bearings. We do have bearing packers available here at etrailer.com, but I'll show you how you can do it by hand.The big thing we need to do is we need to get grease packed all the way inside here, so it comes out the other side there. We're going to take our grease and we're going to smush it in all the way around. Some people do get irritated with various chemicals in grease. So if you think you have sensitive skin and you're worried about it, I would recommend wearing a pair of gloves. I haven't noticed any issues with mine, but all people are different. So you'll just need to make sure you're doing what's proper for you. And first, I'm just going to start by kind of just getting it around there because then we're going to be smushing it up inside there. I'm just going to go ahead and get it started all the way around.And now the easiest way to usually do this is to use the palm of your hand. I'm going to put some grease there, and we're just going to smash that grease up inside of it. Just continually smash it. If you need to, go a little higher. And we're just going to continue doing this until we get grease all the way around the outside. We don't want to have our bearings run dry ever. So, this is pretty critical to ensure that when we drive our vehicle, we have the proper lubrication inside of our bearings. If you don't, it could potentially eat it up.So here you can see that the grease that I've been pushing through on the backside is starting to come out around the seal here at the top. And that's what we want. We want it to be completely packed all the way around. Once you've got the larger bearing done, this is going to be your inner bearing. This one's going to set into the backside of your rotor, and we'll put our seal on to put that in. Since I'm all messy right now, might as well take the opportunity to grease your outer bearing. Just once you're done with this one, you want to make sure you set it in a place where it's not going to collect a bunch of dirt while you're finishing up.Now we can put our grease seal in. This is just going to sit right in the back. This is the inside here. So this is going to go towards our bearing. You can see the little spring there. Make sure your spring is in the lip all the way around. It should be when you pull it out. And we're just going to set that in place. And then we're going to drive it in using a seal driver kit. You can get that here at etrailer.com. If you don't have a seal driver kit, one of the common methods is to just use a block of wood, but I'll show you here why this is not going to necessarily work out in this particular situation. We can start with it for sure like you would any other seal. This is a very common automotive practice to use the block of wood because most commonly you drive your seals in until they're flush with the back of the rotor.But with this particular Kodiak kit, one of the things you're going to notice here is that it's chamfered and our seal's actually not driven all the way in yet. I know most of the time it's flush, but I'm telling you that this is going to have your seal be out just a little bit, and it's not going to ride where you would think it would on the inner seal where it goes on the spindle. And it's also not driven all the way in, so it could potentially work itself out because we don't have as much surface area as possible holding the seal in. We can then take a seal driver, and this is our shop's kit so it's a little bit different than what we have online, but it works very similarly. We're going to get an appropriate sized driver, line it up with the race. It needs to be basically the same diameter or just a hair smaller. And then we can finish driving it in all the way.And now that we've got it all the way in, you can see we're down flush with that chamfer all the way around. I know some people might get concerned, well, hey, is this going to push it in far enough to where it's going to hit our bearing No, it's not. You can see the bearing still has plenty of room. So that's exactly how we want it there.I'm just going to smear a little bit of fresh grease on here just to make things slide on a little bit easier. At this point, we can lift our rotor up, and it is heavy. It's a pretty big chunk of metal there. And then we're going to carefully slide it onto the spindle, being careful not to nick the grease seal that we put in on anything. So we're just going to bring it up, I kind of like to rotate it around, kind of watch what I'm doing as I go in, and push it in until it stops there. We can then take the new bearing that we already greased and slide that into place. Sometimes these can be a little tricky. It's why we greased it up first to try to make things a little bit easier, but every now and then they just like to get stuck, and they're cocked just a little bit.Sometimes it's good if you can just pull it back out a little bit if it does get stuck. Once you've got the bearing slid in, we can take the old washer that we had. We're just going to wipe the grease off of that. Now the grease that we did use, we used red wheel bearing grease, which we have available here at etrailer.com if you need some. We chose red because that's what the old grease was. I know it kind of looks black. That's just because it's dirty. It was actually red once you kind of get down inside of it. So it's best to match the type that you had in there before. We'll then slide the washer on and follow it up with the nut that we had removed as well. We're going to wipe off some of that old grease and dirt. Just get that out of there. You don't need to get 100% of the old grease out of there. It's not really necessary. But we just want to get kind of the bulk off of it. And then we're just going to tighten this back on here.And we're just using that same pair of channel locks again to tighten it down. This is where we need to set the pressure on the bearings. So one of the things I like to do first to ensure the bearings are fully seated is tighten it as tight as I can get. So, we're turning the nut and we're turning the rotor at the same time. And you're going to feel the rotor get tight as you do this. Again, we're just trying to make sure we got the bearings fully seated. Once you've got it nice and snug like that, really hard to turn, we don't want to leave it that way. We'll burn our bearings up, but we know they're fully seated now.Once we've got it fully tightened, we're then just going to back the nut off to where it's loose, and we're going to come back until we feel just a little bit of resistance there, right there. That's about where you start to a little pressure. Now we'll see our little hole there. That's where our cotter pin is going to go back in. Since it's very close to the slot, I'm going to give it just a smidge like that, and then re-insert our cotter pin. Again, this is going to probably need just a little bit of adjustment on the nut, so you get her to go where we need it to go.There we go. So it comes out the other side. Make sure we go all the way down with it. There we go. We got it all the way down. We'll take the other end and bend it back up like it was before. Now we can finish greasing these up. We have our grease fitting for our easy lube axles, and this kit's designed for easy lube as it's got a cap with an opening. So we could put this on and open that up there, but I like to do this first. That's the little rubber that lets you access. This is really more for maintenance in the future. If you don't have easy lube axles, you would have wanted to ensure that this was filled with grease before putting it on.So we're just going to start filling her up now with grease until we see grease squish out of our outer bearing. This can take quite a bit sometimes depending on the spindle and rotor combination or how much space is in there to fill up. And it's just starting to ooze out now. We can see it's oozed out all the way around. So we are done filling this one up. You can then go ahead and put the cap on, seal this grease up, so we're not making a mess when we go to put our caliper on here in a minute. So just line these up and thread it on.Now, there is a torque specification written on the cap here. However, most people aren't going to have a socket that is large enough to fit on this. And the big thing with this is just keeping the grease from coming out. There's a rubber seal here on the inside. So as long as we get it snug, we're going to be plenty fine there. The big thing with these really is just not to overtighten it because it is just plastic. When we first started this job, you saw the ones that we're broken off, because those we're over tightened. And that's plenty fine right there. We're snug. Our seal has made full contact all the way around, so our grease can't come out. We've now got the caliper that comes in our kit here. Want to make sure that brake pad's pushed all the way in. A lot of times in shipping, it kind of just pops out of there.Just push that in. The slides here also sometimes are pushed towards the center, and we need those to be flush. So if they are pushed in, push on those slides. Same thing with the one over here on the other side, just push it until it's flush just to make sure that we've got enough clearance for this to go on. We can then slide our bolts in, and they are sticking through there a little bit. We're just going to pull them back because they're going to be in the way. We'll then just take our caliper. We're going to slide it over our rotor.Each side should sit nice and flush here with our bracket. And then we can take the bolts that we had slid in there and thread those in. And then we're just going to thread these in. I like to start each one by hand before tightening them down. Because sometimes when you go to tighten them down, it might not be quite lined up and you'll fight getting the other ones started. So we can then go back and tighten them down now we got them started. We're tightening them down using a half inch socket. We can then go back and torque these bolts to the specifications found in our instructions.We can now repeat this same process for the remaining hubs that we have. And once you've got those on, the nut where we put that cotter pin in and everything, when we loosen it and tighten it back up, that for the most part gets you set where you want. But it's a good idea after you've got all of them done, you can throw a wheel on here real quick and just see if you've got any play in the wheel. If you've got a lot of play, you may need to go a little bit tighter. Just a tiny little smidgen of play is okay, but only just a little tiny bit. We don't want to overtighten it though to the point where it's too tight and this is hard to spin. That's going to remove any play. But again, this has to be loose enough to keep our bearings from burning up.So just a smidgen of play to no play is right where you want to be. If you're concerned that you maybe got it too tight, loosen it up a little bit until you feel that play, and then just go back up until you can get that cotter pin lined up. Now, we've got these assemblies installed. You just got to hook up your brake lines, your hoses, and then bleed the brakes. If you're replacing an existing set, you've already got that done, and you just hook them up and bleed them. If you need to add brake lines and an actuator, if you're going from an old electric system to a hydraulic system like we are here, I would highly recommend HydraStar's 1600 PSI brake actuator. And they also have brake line kits available here at etrailer.com in various lengths for the amount of access you have and the length of your trailer.So now that we've got everything installed, we need to bleed the brakes. So we're going to go ahead and remove the cap, go ahead and take it off, and fill it up with .3 or .4 brake fluid. We're going to be using .3, but .4 will also work and you can get it at your local automotive store. We'll then want to fill up our reservoir, and then we can begin bleeding the brakes. You will likely need an assistant when bleeding the brakes due to the length of the trailer. You kind of can't be at both ends at the same time. We're now back at the passenger rear brake caliper. You want to start at the caliper that's furthest from your actuator. Ours is mounted pretty close to the center, but since we routed the lines down the driver's side, that makes this one the furthest distance away. We're then going to bleed this one and progressively get closer to the actuator going in the order of furthest to closest bleeding them.We can go ahead and take a. Now you don't have use a little hose like this, but it can to help minimize the mess as this is going to shoot out of here with some pretty good pressure. And you're going to have a lot of cleanup. Brake fluid's very destructive on paint and other surfaces like that, so you really do want to try to minimize getting it on things. If you do get it on something, just make sure you clean it up right away. So we're going to poke this hose on it and go down to our catch tray down here. And when I loosen the bleeder screw here with my 5/16 wrench, I'm going to have the assistant pull the pin to start pumping the fluid. The assistant also needs to keep an eye on the fluid level because if the system goes dry, you have to start all the way over. So you need to make sure he keeps that topped up while you're doing this. So I'm going to go ahead and open it up. Go ahead and pull the pin. Go ahead.You can see it shooting out. We're going to go ahead and stop it. This already looks pretty good. We did gravity bleed it. I'm going to close it up. And since we didn't really have too many bubbles there, we can move on to the next wheel. We're going to go ahead and do this one one more time just to make sure there's no bubbles. If you do see a bunch of bubbles going down your clear tubing like this, that means you've got air in the system and you need to continue to bleed until you get it with nice solid stream of fluid through here. Remember that assistant needs to keep topping up that reservoir as we go. So let's just do this one more time just to make sure everything's nice and clean. Go ahead and pull the pin. Oh yeah. And that is nice and solid, so we're going to close it up. Go ahead and stop.And you can see there's no bubbles in any of that. We're just going to pull that off and it'll finish draining down. We're now just going to move on to the next one that's furthest away. Repeat that process at each one until they all come back with nice solid stream of fluid. Once you're finished bleeding, you can then reinstall the cap. You don't want the cap on it when you're bleeding as the little rubber seal here can actually get pulled out and it could potentially damage it, so now that we finished the bleeding process, we're going to put that back on. And then we're going to activate the brakes and check to make sure we have no leaks in our system. To check for leaks, I'm just going to pull the breakaway pin and then I'm going to check every fitting to make sure that there's no fluid coming from them. You want to check each one very thoroughly because sometimes it can be leaking out very slowly. So I like to actually just touch them and see if I get anything on my finger.We want to make sure we check all the ones here at the brake calipers, nice and dry, as well as all the unions and fittings that we have here. Everything is coming back nice and dry, so we know we've got no leaks in our system. You can re-insert the pin now to stop the actuator. We just needed that actuator to run to keep everything pressurized to make sure this could handle a fully loaded hydraulic system. And that completes our look at Kodiak's Disc Brake Kit for 8,000 pound axles with a 13 inch rotor and an 8 x 6.5 bolt pattern.

Customer Satisfaction Score:


Customer Reviews

Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Raw Finish - 8,000-lb Dexter - K2HR89D

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (3 Customer Reviews)

9/16" Bolts are included with this 2-assembly brake kit. Machine-finished rotors, e-coated calipers and e-coated mounting brackets fit 8,000-lb Dexter axles and 16" and larger wheels. 13" Rotor features 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern.

by:

We were looking for a more reliable brake system as we travel a lot and installed disc brakes to make stopping better installation was easy. Added parts were easily added and shipped Sales people at ETRAILER were very helpful


Comments
I am very pleased with the addition of the disc brakes and there added ability to help stop my trailer. They were easy to install and worth the cost
David - 08/05/2021


by:

Excellent customer service and great pr ices!




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