Dexter Trailer Brake Drum for 9,000-lb to 10,000-lb Axles - 12-1/4" - 8 on 6-1/2 - Non-ABS

Dexter Trailer Brake Drum for 9,000-lb to 10,000-lb Axles - 12-1/4" - 8 on 6-1/2 - Non-ABS

Item # 9-44-1

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Accessories and Parts 9-44-1 - 12-1/4 x 3-3/8 Inch - Dexter Axle
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Product Images

In Use/Installed

  • Trailer Hubs and Drums
  • Drums
  • Dexter Axle
  • 8 on 6-1/2 Inch
  • 12-1/4 x 3-3/8 Inch
Trailer brake drum works with 9,000-lb to 10,000-lb oil bath hub assembly (8-288-3UC1 - sold separately). Installs on 9,000-lb to 10,000-lb general-duty Dexter axles made prior to July 2009. Call 800-298-8924 to order Dexter Axle accessories and parts part number 9-44-1 or order online at Free expert support on all Dexter Axle products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Dexter Trailer Brake Drum for 9,000-lb to 10,000-lb Axles - 12-1/4" - 8 on 6-1/2 - Non-ABS. Accessories and Parts reviews from real customers.

  • All Info
  • Reviews (3)
  • Q & A (6)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Dexter Axle Accessories and Parts - 9-44-1

Trailer brake drum works with 9,000-lb to 10,000-lb oil bath hub assembly (8-288-3UC1 - sold separately). Installs on 9,000-lb to 10,000-lb general-duty Dexter axles made prior to July 2009.


  • Trailer drum provides surface area for brake shoes to grip when brake is activated
    • Designed to work with Dexter 9,000-lb to 10,000-lb oil bath hub assembly (8-288-3UC1 - sold separately)
    • Compatible with non-ABS electric and hydraulic drum brakes
  • Sturdy iron construction
  • Made in the USA


  • Application: 9,000-lb and 10,000-lb axles manufactured before July 2009
  • Drum dimensions: 12-1/4" diameter x 3-3/8" wide
  • Pilot hole diameter: 4-3/4"
  • Bolt pattern: 8 on 6-1/2"
  • Weight capacity: 5,000 lbs

Determining the Bolt Pattern

The first number in the bolt pattern is the number of bolt holes. The second number denotes the diameter, in inches, of the circle on which the bolt holes sit.

Bolt Pattern - Even

On wheels with an even number of bolt holes, measure from the center of one bolt hole to the center of the hole directly across from it. (Example: 8 on 6-1/2 means 8 bolt holes with 6-1/2" from the center of one hole to the center of another on the opposite side.)

Bolt Pattern - Odd

To determine the bolt-circle diameter on wheels with an odd number of bolt holes, measure from the center of any bolt hole to the point halfway between the two bolt holes directly across from the first. (Example: 5 on 4-1/2 means 5 bolt holes with 4-1/2" measured to a point halfway between the opposite bolt holes.)

Bolt Pattern - Side

Measuring the distance (D) from the center of one bolt hole on the wheel to the center of a bolt hole right next to it can also help to determine the bolt pattern.

  • If D = 2-5/8", then the bolt pattern is 5 on 4-1/2"
  • If D = 2-3/4", then the bolt pattern is 5 on 4-3/4"
  • If D = 3", then the bolt pattern is 5 on 5"
  • If D = 3-1/4", then the bolt pattern is 5 on 5-1/2"

009-044-01 Dexter 10" Drum for 9K to 10K Axles - Old Style - No ABS - 8 on 6-1/2

Replaces 9-44-1

Video of Dexter Trailer Brake Drum for 9,000-lb to 10,000-lb Axles - 12-1/4" - 8 on 6-1/2 - Non-ABS

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Dexter Trailer Brake Drum Review

Speaker 1: Today we're gonna be taking a look at the non-ABS Dexter trailer brake drum for 9,000 to 10,000 pound axles with an eight on six and a half inch bolt pattern and that's gonna be part number 9-44-1. Here's what our drums look like when we have them installed and the purpose is they're gonna give us a surface for our brake shoes to contact to help slow our trailer down. Our drums are gonna be compatible with 9,000 and 10,000 pound oil hub assemblies which are sold separately.Our drums are gonna be 12 and one quarter inches in diameter and three and three-eighths inches wide. Our drums are gonna have a cast iron construction and they're gonna work with non-ABS electric or hydraulic drum brakes. Now that we've seen our drums and gone over some of the features let's show you how to get it installed.In order to get our new parts on we're gonna have to take our old parts off. We're gonna start by taking off our oil cap, now we have already drained our oil and if you haven't it would be a good time to go ahead and pull the cap and get as much oil out as you can so you don't make a big mess.

In order to get the nut off we're gonna have to bend these tabs out of the way so that we can spin it off. We can take a flathead screwdriver and a hammer and tap them out of the way.Take a large pair of channel locks and loosen that nut up, start pulling everything out. Remove the outer nut and then the retaining washer then the inner nut and we can pull the flat washer that was behind it off and then finally you can start working our drum back and once we have enough room we can pull the bearing out. Now would be a good time to go ahead and inspect the bearing for any kind of wear or any scoring or major heat marks before we get too far into it. We'll go ahead and clean it off and make sure that our bearing's in good shape.Now with our outer bearing and all the nuts removed we'll go ahead and grab our drum and we're gonna start working it off the spindle, just want to be careful because it is rather heavy.

Make sure you have a firm grip on it and we can remove it and set it aside for now. With the drum off now would be a good time and go ahead and inspect the spindle and all the other components on the inside, cleaning it off, making sure there's no major wear on the spindle or anywhere else.To replace our drum we're gonna have to remove the hub from it so we can go ahead and flip it over to the inside and we can see where it's bolted in. Now it's not uncommon for these bolts to be covered up with a lot brake dust so it's a good idea to go ahead and take a small screwdriver or a pick and clean out around the bolts. You want to make sure you clean them out really well so that way you can get a socket on there to fully engage and it doesn't round out the bolts. Just want to go around each one of the bolts and clean them out and get all that dirt and brake dust out of there.

I'm gonna take a half inch socket and remove all the bolts and we will be reusing these bolts so you want to be extra careful when you're taking them out.Once we have all the bolts removed we can go ahead and turn our hub and drum assembly back on the side and most likely it is gonna be stuck on there pretty well so you just want to take a hammer and give it a good whack two times around the edge to separate the drum from the hub. You just want to stay away from the studs because you don't want to damage those. Now we can set our old drum aside and grab the new one.Now when you're replacing your drum and you have the hub off it's always a good idea to go ahead and check your seal and as you can see this one's been leaking pretty good so we're gonna go ahead and replace it. The easiest way to get it out is to just take a flathead screwdriver and you come underneath and just gently pry up on it. Since we have the seal out it's not a bad idea to go ahead and check the bearing and the races for any kind of damage or wear.

It's always a good idea to go ahead and clean up any of the debris and the buildup that was building up around that seal. Make it a little bit easier to check everything and we don't have to worry about contaminating the inside of our hub.We can grab our new seal, making sure to put our bearing back in place, and our seal's gonna have two sides. One side is gonna be metal and then the other side is gonna be a rubber piece, you want to make sure that metal piece is going towards the inside of the hub towards the bearing so we can just loosely put it in place. Now if you don't have a seal driver that's this big you can take a block of wood, we're gonna put it right over the seal, and then take a hammer until it's nice and even. Just periodically check and see where we need to drive the seal. Once you have it even all the way around and it's fully seated we're good to go.We can take our hub and we're gonna line up the holes with the holes on our new drum. Gonna press it into place, make sure it's seated all the way, and then we're gonna turn it over, be careful not to knock it out in misalignment, and we're gonna put our hardware back in place. For now we're just gonna loosely put the bolts in by hand, making sure they thread in nicely, nothing's moved and it's not cross threading. We come back with our half inch socket and snug them all up. Now I'm gonna be going in a star pattern so I can get it to seat evenly and it doesn't bind up. For good measure I'm gonna take some brake parts cleaner and I'm gonna spray the inside of the drum to get any kind of oils that may have been on my hands off and make sure we don't contaminate the shoes.Before we put our drum back in place we want to make sure that our spindle is nice and clean because we don't want any dirt or debris or anything else getting in way, preventing our drum or the seal from seating properly. We can clean any kind of debris that got in the hub, clean that out, and we can start putting our bearings and all the washers back in place.With our bearing in place take our flat washer followed by the nut and the inner nut you don't want to be extremely tight, just want to get it hand tight and then maybe a click little snug with a pair of pliers to make sure it's seated all the way. We can put in our keeper washer and then finally the last nut. The outer nut is gonna be need to be a little bit tighter than the inner one, just want to tighten it down to about the same as when you took it off, it's easiest to do with a large pair of channel locks. We can take a flathead screwdriver or a pry bar and we're gonna bend a couple of these tabs down to prevent that outer nut from moving.We'll take our cap and we can screw it back in place. If the hub starts moving on you you can either grab it by the studs or you can take a pry bar and you can stick it in between the studs to hold it down so it won't move as much. We can remove our cap to fill our oil and we can fill our hub back up and then once it's full we can replace the cap and then we can adjust our brakes.On the back here we're gonna have a couple plugs, we just take a flathead screwdriver and we can pop them out so that we can access the gear to make our initial adjustment for our brakes. We can either get a brake adjustment tool or a flathead screwdriver and we're gonna want to turn that gear until the brakes are adjusted the way we want. Make a couple turns then we can spin our hub to see how much drag and how much movement we have. Once your brakes are adjusted we can go ahead and put our plug back in place.That'll finish up your look at the non-ABS Dexter trailer brake drums for 9,000 to 10,000 pound axles measuring 12 and one quarter inches with eight on six and a half inch bolt pattern, part number 9-44-1.

Customer Reviews

Dexter Trailer Brake Drum for 9,000-lb to 10,000-lb Axles - 12-1/4" - 8 on 6-1/2 - Non-ABS - 9-44-1

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (3 Customer Reviews)

Trailer brake drum works with 9,000-lb to 10,000-lb oil bath hub assembly (8-288-3UC1 - sold separately). Installs on 9,000-lb to 10,000-lb general-duty Dexter axles made prior to July 2009.

- 9-44-1

The products were shipped fast, parts fits perfect. 2 thumbs up 541495

- 9-44-1

This was the best customer service experience that I have had in a long time! I highly recommend etrailer! The order came in an amazingly timely manner and were very high quality! Thank You Again! Brian. 371961

- 9-44-1

Just what we needed will buy here again 356382


Ask the Experts about this Dexter Axle Accessories and Parts

Do you have a question about this Accessories and Part?

  • 12-1/4 x 3-3/8 Inch Electric Trailer Brakes for 9K and 10K Trailer Axles
  • There are 2 different sets of 12-1/4 x 3-3/8 inch brake assemblies and the difference between them is the mounting patterns they have. Electric brakes # 23-450 and # 23-451 will bolt to either a 5-hole or 7-hole mounting flange and they are for 9K to 10K axles which is what the hub # 9-44-1 is for. Electric brakes # 23-434 and # 23-435 will bolt to a 4-hole flange. So if you look at the flange your brakes are mounted to now and see just 4 holes in a square pattern you would use...
    view full answer...

  • Inner Brake Drum Dimension of Dexter Drum 009-044-01 to Brake Dust Shield Mounting Flange
  • I went out to our warehouse to measure the Dexter Trailer Brake Drum # 9-44-1 drum for you. From the inside wall to the inside lip the measurement is 4-1/2 inches where it will come to the dust shield of the brake assembly where it mounts to the axle flange. The brake assembly I recommend for that hub is the Electric Trailer Brake Kit w/ Dust Shields - Self-Adjusting - 12-1/4" - Left/Right Hand - 10K # AKEBRK-10.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Hub and Drum Assembly for a Dexter 10K General Duty Axle 387A Inner and 25580 Outer
  • We have exactly what you are looking for. If your axles were made before 07-01-2009, then you have the old style 2-piece hub and drums, so you will want the Complete Hub Assembly, # 8-288-3UC1. Keep in mind, this does not include the drum. If you also need the drum, then you will want part # 9-44-1 for a non-ABS drum or part # 9-44-3 for a drum with the ABS exciter ring installed and 8 drum mounting bolts, # 7-245. The hub assembly comes with the races already installed and it includes...
    view full answer...

  • Is Dexter Trailer Hub/Drum Assembly # 8-430-5UC3 a 1-Piece or 2-Piece Assembly
  • Dexter Trailer Hub/Drum Assembly # 8-430-5UC3 is a one piece assembly, hub and drum together. It fits Dexter 9k and 10k general duty axles made after 07/01/2009. Hub # 8-288-3UC1 is a 2 piece for 9K axle (after 10/89) and 10K axle (through 7/1/09). It does not come with the drum or mounting bolts. For a non-ABS drum use # 9-44-1. For an ABS version use # 9-44-3. And for the mounting bolt use # 7-245 (quantities of 1).
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Replacement Hub And Drum For 10,000-Lb Dexter Axle
  • The hub assembly you need is part # 8-288-3UC1. This is the replacement hub for the Dexter old-style 2-piece hub and drums. This is designed for 10,000-lb axles, and includes the hub, bearings, races, seal, oil cap, wheel bolts, wheel retaining ring, and lug nuts. The drum that is designed to work with this is part # 9-44-1 for the non-ABS drum. If you need the ABS drum with exciter ring you will need part # 9-44-3. The mounting bolets are sold separately and they are part # 7-245....
    view full answer...

  • Can a 1-Piece 9K/10K Dexter Hub and Drum be Replaced with a 2-Piece 9K/10K Hub and Drum
  • I spoke directly with my technical contact over at Dexter. Basically you cannot replace an 8-430 hub with an 8-288 hub due to differences in the spindles that each of those hubs fit. If your axle was made after July of 2009 then you will need to use # 8-430-5UC3. If it was made before July of 2009 you would instead use # 8-288-3UC1 with drum # 9-44-1 for non-ABS systems or # 9-44-3 for ABS systems.
    view full answer...

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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Installed by:
Robert C
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Written by:
Laura H
Edited by:
Laura H
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Alexander C

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