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Demco SBS Reinstall Kit for Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System

Demco SBS Reinstall Kit for Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System

Item # SM6270
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Demco SBS Reinstall Kit for Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System Second Vehicle Kit SM6270
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Kit allows you to remove your existing Stay-IN-Play DUO supplemental braking system (SM9599006) and reinstall into another tow vehicle. Call 800-298-1624 to order Demco accessories and parts part number SM6270 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Demco products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Demco SBS Reinstall Kit for Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System. Accessories and Parts reviews from real customers.
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Demco Accessories and Parts - SM6270

  • Tow Bar Braking Systems
  • Second Vehicle Kit
  • Demco

Kit allows you to remove your existing Stay-IN-Play DUO supplemental braking system (SM9599006) and reinstall into another tow vehicle.


  • Reinstall kit lets you remove your Demco SBS Stay-IN-Play DUO supplemental braking system from one tow vehicle and reinstall into another tow vehicle
    • Includes all installation components needed to transfer your system
    • For use with Stay-IN-Play DUO system SM99251 (9599006) - sold separately
  • Made in the USA

6270 Demco SBS - (Formerly SMI) Tow Vehicle Re-Install Kit for Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System

Video of Demco SBS Reinstall Kit for Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Demco Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System Reinstall Kit Install - 2021 Jeep Gladiator

Hi there Jeep owners. Today on your 2021 Jeep Gladiator, we're going to be taking a look at, and showing you how to install, Demco's Stay-IN-Play Duo second vehicle kit. This re-installation kit is going to help you save a lot of money, moving your existing Stay-IN-Play Duo from your old vehicle over to your new vehicle. The most expensive components are going to be your operating unit, the cylinder that's on the pedal, as well as the controller that's mounted on the inside. All of those components can be reused. You just need ways to hook them back up.

This re-installation kit is going to come with everything that you'll need to get it hooked up. You'll get all of your connections that you'll need. You'll get new check valves, and new T-fittings, to tap everything in. You also receive a new indicator light, and some other items that just aren't really feasible to reuse from your old system.In addition to that, you'll also receive a new breakaway switch. Because even if your old one does still function, it's a good idea to replace it to ensure that you've got a proper operating unit.

In the event of that catastrophic failure, you want to make sure your system works. Couple of things you might want to consider is some extra hose because you do not get new hose with the kit. You can reuse your old hose, but you do cut your hose to length. So depending on the vehicle you're moving it over to, you may need longer length of hose than what you have available to you. You can get that at your local automotive store.

It's a 3/8 inner diameter hose.Another thing you want to maybe consider, and you can get here at etrailer, is some extra wiring. That just depends on when you're removing your old system, where you cut your wires. I recommend keeping them as long as possible. But we know that sometimes when you're taking those components out, you want to get them out fast. Cutting them short might be the quickest way to do so.

So you can just purchase extra wire to make up for that length that you'd just cut out of your old vehicle.There's five main components you'll need when flat towing your vehicle behind your motor home. You'll need your tow bar, which is the connection between the motor home and the vehicle. You'll need your base plate, which is the connection point on the vehicle that you'll attach your tow bar to. You'll need your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection, in addition to the tow wire. You'll also need your diode wiring, which will take all the lighting signals from your motor home and transfer them to the lights at the back of the vehicle. So they'll know your intentions when going down the road. Lastly you'll need your supplemental braking system, which will apply the brakes in the vehicle that you're pulling, so you can come to a safe stop.We'll begin our installation by going over a few things first about your old braking system. This re-installation kit is going to come with all the components you need to transfer over the parts from your old system and get it working on our new vehicle. So we're going to cover first, the parts that you need to make sure that you save from your braking systems. So that way you can get them re-installed with the re-installation kit. Your operating unit, here's one of those components. So make sure you save this. There's a lot of different places you can mount it on your Gladiator. We put ours right here on top of our fuse box. You can just drill some holes in the side and the top, and then use zip ties to secure it to that. Then on the inside, I used some silicone, you can see a little bit squirting out here to seal those holes back up.You'll also need to save your cylinder as well as the tether that's attached to the back and the anchor that goes into the firewall. You also need to save your control box for the inside. It just uses screws to run into the plastic. I recommend saving those screws because you don't get new screws for mounting this with the re-installation kit. So it's good to save that hardware as well. So now we've got all the things that you need to save. Some of the things that you're going to want to mount up before you wire things up that does come with the re-installation kit, is your breakaway switch. So you want to go out and get that mounted up here at the front so that when you know how long you need your wires to be and stuff, to reach your switch.The one that comes in your kit is going to look just like this, except for this portion here that's black is actually just metal. I took some black gloss spray paint and just spray painted it, so that way it would match the rest of the front of our Jeep here. You'll also receive a new LED indicator. That's because this is held on with double-sided adhesive tape. Typically, once you pull off the old indicator, you can't get it to re-stick to a new surface because the adhesive is worn out. So you do get a new one of those. With this one, you just pull off that adhesive backing and then just stick it on the backside of the mirror.If you have any sensors on the backside of the mirror, sometimes there's rain sensing circuits, and other little sensors here, don't cover those up. I usually just feel around for them, because there'll be a little pocket where the sensor would be. So we just stuck that on there. Then the wire, there is a little opening right up in here. We pushed it in and then ran it down the channel here. Until we get to the A-pillar over here, which we tucked it behind and ran it down. You can see here where it's tucked back behind the channel. You can kind of see it just a little bit, but it'll stay in that groove there pretty well. We go all the way down to the seam. Once we get the seam here, we poke it in and we push it back up above here.We just routed it here to where we can make our connection next to our panel here, we'll tuck our excess wires in behind this panel. The LED indicator does have two wires on it. It's got a red and a black. The red wire will need to connect to a stoplight switch. The black will connect to the black wire off of the box here, which receives ground only when you have the system arm. That way, when you have it turned off here, the LED indicator doesn't eliminate when you press the brake pedal. But if you haven't turned on when you press the brake pedal and it moves the switch, it will activate it. So to get this wired up, our Gladiator here doesn't have a regular stoplight switch. So we don't actually have a way to send that stoplight signal to the red wire. So this is a component you are going to want to consider to be able to get this monitor light working. It's just an additional stoplight switch that will install on the pedal. It does not come included with your kit. You can see the stoplight switch located right here.This attaches to a bracket, you see it goes up there. There's a single bolt in the steering column. You're just going to remove the nut off that stud there. You'll slide the bracket up and then reinstall the nut, and it angles towards the brake pedal. That's the shaft right here. That way the switch will actually contact, there's a little ear that comes over that the switch is contacting. So that way when you press the brake pedal, it will engage the switch. Then when the pedal is returned, it presses it on the plunger on our switch here, and it opens it back up. There's two wires coming off the back of the switch, they're both black. It doesn't matter which one you hook to where, they're going to reach their destination, and they're going to do what they need to do. One of these wires off this switch needs to be connected to power. We're going to route that through the firewall and connect it to the battery.We'll be showing that at a later step, because we're going to be using the same power wire to power our operating unit. The other wire coming off of here, we'll just connect to that red wire for our LED indicator. Because that way when the pedals press that power will then go through the switch and turn on the light. I did have to extend the stoplight switch wires. You do receive some white wire with the stoplight switch. So we use some of that to extend those wires down. Here you can see we've connected it to the red wire here. The black wire here has to go to the black wire off the box. We use some of the white wire again to extend it. We use the included butt connectors that came with our re-installation kit, to connect it to here to make the connection here in our extension.If you need extra butt connectors, if you need to make multiple extensions because you may depending on where you cut the wires on your previous components, you can get more by connectors here in each trailer. So the black wire from our LED indicator, we extended with this white wire here, you'll also receive quick splices in your kit. That's what I use to connect it to the black wire coming off of the control unit that we mounted right here. Because coming off of this unit, you're going to have several colors of wires. The black wire is the one that we're going to be using as our ground. We just quick splice it on, the quick splice we'll slide over the black wire. You'll slide your white wire into the other groove and the quick splice. There's a little metal tab inside. I can open it up and you can see the metal tab. You just squeeze that with a pair of pliers. What that metal tab will do is it will actually cut the insulation on each side of the two wires and connect them together.You can see that in the middle there where I pushed it down. You want to push it until it's flush. You'll know it's flush when you can push this cover over and it clicks and locks into place. So just above our quick splice here, there's a grommet located right there. It's just on the other side of those butt connectors. The grommet, we'll show you on the outside. It's plastic and that's where you can easily remove the ground that we drill a hole in it. So we're going to go ahead and head to the outside now and I'll show you where it is on the other side.So here you can see on the outside where our grommets located. I actually just pulled it out of there. It's easier to push from the inside. I just use my screwdriver and push it. It usually falls to the ground. You can grab that plastic grommet then. I used a 3/8 drill bit to drill a hole in the center. Then I just reinserted it so I could pass the wires through. We'll seal it up with some black silicone once we've completed everything.The wires we routed was from our box on the inside. We routed out every wire on that box, except for the white wire, that's our ground wire. Due to the customer cutting the wires so short when they brought them in for us to re-install them, the white wire was so short we grounded it on the inside. Typically, I would ground it out here on the outside, just pass them all out. So I do recommend keeping your wires as long as possible if you can, when taking them off of your other vehicle.Then we're just going to connect the inside units color to color with the outside unit. So it'll be black to black, red to red mine's white because I had to extend it. So it's black inside, it temporarily goes white and then connects to black out here. Then the red wire on the inside temporarily turns brown because I had to extend it, and it connected to the red wire off of our unit. Now when removing your old unit, I recommend leaving the wires as long as possible. So you don't have to extend wires like this and potentially change colors. If you don't have all the colors available to you at the time. We do have wire available here at etrailer, so you can pick them up. We may not have every color you need, but it doesn't really matter what color, that's just best for you to help you identify your circuits.We're connecting all of these here on the outside with heat shrink butt connectors, instead of the regular butt connectors that come included with the kit. You can get those here at trailer as well. We've done this because they seal up once you heat them up and it keeps any moisture from entering and causing corrosion on your connections out here. Now the other two wires that we routed out we're a green and a yellow wire. Those needed to hook into your diode wiring. Your diode wiring is going to have four wires, a green, yellow, brown, and white. We're going to be connecting, just color to color. So on our diode wiring, what we did is we cut the green wire and the yellow wire in half. Then we took our wires from the inside that we routed out, and we just connected them together with one side.So usually there's two green wires, we have our original diode wire, and the one from our box that we routed out from inside. Connect them together to one side of the butt connector and then reconnected the diode wiring back together. We did the same thing with the yellow wire. We've got two more wires on our operating unit. The one that's located on top of the fuse box, there's a blue and a brown wire coming off of that. The brown wire will connect to power, and the blue wire will connect to our breakaway switch.Now the breakaway switch also needs to connect to power. So the way we've done this is, the breakaway switch we did have to extend as well. It's a black wire coming off the breakaway. We extended it using blue to connect it to the blue wire from the unit. The other wire from your breakaway switch is going to be an orange and black wire, just like this. We connected that to the brown wire, which is going to route over to the unit. Then you'll see this extra wire here. This extra white wire here is actually the power wire that we routed inside that we hooked to one side of that stoplight switch, to get power to it, to send through to light up our LED. So this is just an extra wire. We went ahead and put it right here on the brown because we're going to be connecting this to power as well. So that way the same fuse will power up that stoplight switch, to make our indicator work.So we're going to go ahead and follow these over to the other side. They're just taped up. They get over to the operating unit. What I've done over here, you'll see the brown wire. This needs to be connected to power. So I cut the brown wire in half. I stripped back each end, and I just twisted it and put them together into one end of the butt connector. The other end of that butt connector, I routed to our fuse harness that comes in the kit. This is going to come as a loop when you get it. So we just cut the wire in half to have two separate ends. One end we strip back and connect to our brown wire. The other end we strip back connect to a ring terminal, and then attach right to our battery positive. The nut here can be removed with a 13 millimeter socket. You decide your ring terminal on. I bent it down like that so that way the top would go back on. Then you can re-install your nut there to secure it to it.Now I do recommend waiting to install your fuse until you've completed your full braking system install. So that way, when you're working with wires and stuff, you don't accidentally cause any shorts. Also, on you're operating unit you're going to have two hoses you'll need to connect. The small hose here you'll receive additional hose in your re-installation kit so you can get this re-installed. It just pokes right in with a quick connect fitting there. So it just pokes in, and then we route it across to the other side. It goes through the grommet and we're going to go to the cylinder on the inside that we mounted to the pedal.Once you get your hose routed inside, you're likely going to have some excess that you need to get rid of. When cutting this airline, since they go into quick connect fittings, it's really important that you have a clean square cut on the end for it to seal properly. If you we're to use just a pair of wire cutters or side cutters, it would give a kind of a V-shape. It wouldn't be very clean and it would deform the roundness of it. Because it would kind of squish it before it cut it. So you want to use hose cutters when cutting this hose. You can get a set here at etrailer. It's a little bit smaller than the pair we have here, but it's actually more convenient when working inside these.You can see here when I cut it, it cuts through it nice and easy, and I'm doing it perpendicular with it. Glides right through, and we've got a nice clean cut. Once you've got it cut to length, you can then just poke that hose right into your cylinder, and that get this routed up. While we're also on the inside here, I talked about the ground wire off the unit. I just wanted to go ahead and show it to you. There's the ground wire from our unit here, the little white wire coming off this box. We attach a ring terminal to it and put it on the stud right here, just behind the brake pedal. That's where we get our ground from.Now, the other hose that you'll need to attach actually does not come in the kit. So if you can try to save this hose but in most scenarios, you have to cut this hose to length and stuff when you installed it on the other vehicle. There's a good chance it's just not going to be the appropriate length to make the connections you need on your new vehicles. So you can pick this up at your local automotive store if you do need more hose, if the previous vehicle had the lines just cut too short because that's where the components we're on that vehicle.This is a three-3/8 inner diameter hose. You can see here that it's about as thick as my finger, just for a reference. The operating unit here should have a check valve on this side. So you'll want to make sure you keep that on the unit. But you do receive a new check valve in your kit. That's going to go over on the other side. So if we're going to follow this over, just go across the back here. It's inaudible 00:15:13 into the wiring that we routed. Go above our reservoir, and this is our factory brake vacuum booster line right here. We need to tap into this line because when our system activates, it's actually going to draw air from the booster, creating assist while pressurizing the cylinder on the inside.So we tee into this line right here next to the brake reservoir in between that and the coolant reservoir. We cut the hose kind of right after the turn. There's a little 90 degree here. We cut it kind of right after that. Then we cut small, probably about an inch and a half to two inch sections from our 3/8 hose here to make our connections. We slide one small section onto the factory line here, and then secure it with the included hose clamp. The other side of the small section of hose, will go into the T-fitting that comes with your re-installation kit. The other side of the T-fitting, you'll have another section of small hose. If you can, you can reuse these sections from your previous installation, but they can be very difficult to get those removed. So they often do get damaged.On the other side of this hose, we put the check valve that does come included with your kit, making sure that the black side faces towards your engine, not towards the booster. Then another small section of hose where it reconnects back to the factory line. Again, we secure it with a hose clamp to that factory line. The large hose that we route it over, it goes to the last spot on our T, which will then go over to that unit. So now that we've got all of our connections made, we can go back and insert our fuse. You'll get a 20 amp fuse with the kit, just push it in there, close it up. Now we can test our system to make sure it's working properly. Inside that control unit that we mounted on the inner kick panel, there's a switch there we talked about. You want to make sure you flip that to the odd position so we can test it.Wow we're just going to pull the breakaway pin. This is going to verify the system works. As well as verifying that our safety system for our breakaway is working as well. We can see the unit has applied, and our LED indicator on the backside of our mirror has also illuminated. Now that everything's working properly, I do recommend you get an assistant to maybe pull that pin a couple of times, while you look on the inside to make sure that the cylinder is. when it's pulling the pedal that the cable is pulling straight behind it. If it's pulling it at an angle, it can actually wear that cable and cause it to fray and then damage. So just make sure that it's pulling it in a nice straight line. That completes our installation of Demco's Stay-IN-Play Duo second vehicle re-installation kit.

Customer Reviews

Demco SBS Reinstall Kit for Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System - SM6270

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (7 Customer Reviews)

Kit allows you to remove your existing Stay-IN-Play DUO supplemental braking system (SM9599006) and reinstall into another tow vehicle.

- SM6270

All the components were included making it a breeze to reinstall braking system in my Colorado pickup

- SM6270

Excellent product and customer service, the last kit was purchased close to 35 years ago when we first began flat towing. Was still working fine. The reason for purchasing the new reinstall kit was to set up my new Jeep Wrangler.

- SM6270

After some confusion pertaining to delays in receiving the part(s) from the supplier, "etrailer " went the extra mile to make everything work out favorably. Thanks for great customer service.

- SM6270

- SM6270

- SM6270

- SM6270


Ask the Experts about this Demco Accessories and Parts

  • Why no Check Valve on 2014 Grand Cherokee Diesel For Demco SBS Reinstall Kit for Stay-IN-Play DUO
    It is likely you do not require the check valve on your 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee diesel with the Demco SBS Reinstall Kit for Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System # SM6270 due to diesels often having hyrdoboost brakes and not vacuum assist brakes. You'll need to verify you have hydroboost, but that is very common on diesel vehicles.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Flat Tow Setup for a 2014 Chevy Captiva Sport
    I can definitely help you out with parts to flat tow your 2014 Chevy Captiva Sport. I really like the Demco setup you were looking at because Demco offers a few kits that include just about everything that you need, plus they have very nice tow bars that will last you a long time which you can use on future vehicles you choose to flat tow. For a base plate kit use part # DM9518218 and the the Demco tow bar I recommend is the Dominator # DM9511008 because it has a 7,500 lb weight capacity...
    view full answer...
  • Parts Needed to Flat Tow 2009 Honda Fit
    Since you have the SMI DUO # SM99251 currently all you need to install it in your 2009 Honda Fit is the part # SM6270 and you'd be set. For a base plate kit the Blue Ox part # BX2253 would be what you'd want with the Avail tow bar part # BX7420. For lighting you can use the diode kit, # RM-15267, and not have to worry about cutting into the taillight housing. This will splice into your taillight wiring to allow your tow vehicle to control the taillight assemblies of the towed vehicle....
    view full answer...

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Info for this part was:

Employee Lindsey S
Edited by:
Lindsey S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
Kathleen M
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Kristina F
Written by:
Kristina F

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