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Deka Jacketed 4-Wire - 14 Gauge - Per Foot

Deka Jacketed 4-Wire - 14 Gauge - Per Foot

Item # DW04923-1
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Deka Jacketed 4-Wire - 14 Gauge - Per Foot 4 Wire DW04923-1
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Deka Accessories and Parts - DW04923-1

  • Wiring
  • Wire
  • Deka
  • Jacketed Wire
  • 14 Gauge
  • 4 Wire


Features:

  • For use at 50 volts or less
  • PVC insulated jacket for abrasion and chemical resistance
  • Meets SAE J1128 specifications
  • Yellow, red, green, and brown color-coded wires


04924 DEKA Jacketed 4-Wire - 14 Gauge - 1 Foot





Video of Deka Jacketed 4-Wire - 14 Gauge - Per Foot

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Deka Jacketed 4-Wire Installation

Today, on our utility trailer, we're going to be rewiring it using the Deka jacketed, 4-wire, 14-gauge wire, part number DW04923-1. A couple other items that we'll be using in today's installation is a wiring junction box, which is part number 38656, as well as some heat shrink butt connectors, part number DW05743-5 and part number DW05744-5. We'll also be using a few ring terminals, part number DW05702-1. This, right here, is what our jacketed 4-wire looks like. See there's a green, a red, a yellow and a brown inside of it. Now for today's installation, we'll only be connecting the green, the brown and the yellow in our junction box. Now our junction box is already mounted on the trailer.

We're just going to need to replace the wires to the proper studs in the junction box. To begin with, we'll need to go ahead and strip back a little bit of the insulation to gain access to our 4 wires. To do this, we'll simply just take a razor knife and trim some of the insulation away. Now that we have some of the rubber coating stripped back, go ahead and trim that off, then we'll go ahead and route our wire up into our junction box. Now we'll need to take our brown wire here, put a ring terminal on the end of it and we'll run that over here to the tail light stud here so we can round that something like that. Our right turn, we will take the green wire to it; and our left turn, we'll take the yellow wire.

We will not be using the red wire on this application. The red wire, we'll just go ahead and trim off and put down into the box. Go ahead and trim our brown wire to length, and then add a ring terminal. Then take our green wire and do the same process. Finally, repeat the same process to the yellow wire. Now that we have each of our ring terminals on, we can go ahead and install our wires on each of the proper studs.

Go ahead and put the brown wire, which is the running light circuit on. We'll put the star washer back in place, followed by the hex nut, and then we'll tighten it down. Then go ahead and add the green wire in, which is the right turn and brake signal. Finally, we'll add the yellow wire, which is the left turn and brake signal. Now that we have all our connections made, we can go ahead and put our cover back on our junction box. Put the 2 screws in and then tighten them down. Now we'll go ahead and use a few zip ties to help secure the wires as well.

We'll then take a pair of snips and trim off any excess zip tie to clean up our install look. Now we'll go ahead and take the rest of our wire and we'll route it back to the driver side rear of the trailer. Now this trailer already has some holes through the trailer itself, then we'll be able to route our wire through. Now we'll go ahead and install our tail light here, which is an Optronics tail light, part number STL29RB. To do this, we'll go ahead and slide these carriage bolts right here. We'll then slide it through the opening. Now because of the opening that's in this trailer, we're going to add a flat washer here just to give us a little more strength so it doesn't pull through. We'll then stick the lock washer and the hex nut on the stud. White wire here will come up to our ground. Put a little bolt through it, feed it through our hole. On this side, we'll put our lock nut, and then we'll go ahead and tighten it down. To make things easier with the wiring of this light, we're going to go ahead and make a jumper. This will consist of a portion of the jacketed wire, cut the length, which will be fed back under the trailer to be connected to the jacketed wire we ran from the front. There will be another jumper on the passenger side. The red and green wires will be cut as they are not needed on the driver side. We'll go ahead and take our wire strippers and strip back a little bit of wire. Now to make our wire connections, we'll be using some heat shrink connectors, then we'll connect the brown and yellow wire from the jumper to the brown and yellow wire from the driver side tail light. To make our connections, we'll be using the heat shrink blue butt connector. We'll first attach into our tail light wires, then connect the jumper wires. Now that our connections are made, we'll go ahead and take our heat gun and shrink the butt connectors down, sealing them off. If you don't have a heat gun, a regular lighter will work as well. But you have to be much more careful, as you can easily damage the wire using a lighter. Now we're going to go ahead and use a small section of half-inch diameter wire loom over the wires here at this connection to give them a little more protection. Now we'll go ahead and slide it up and over the wires. Go ahead and use a little bit of electrical tape to keep our wire loom in place. Then we'll take our other end, feed it through the hole in the trailer. Now we're going to go ahead and cut our wire here. We're going to need to make our connection in with this, as well as run our wire over to the passenger side. We'll go ahead and strip the sheathing back off. Now we will not be using the red wire again, so we can go ahead and trim that out of the way. Go ahead and cut off the excess here. Go ahead and strip all of our wires back so we can use our butt connectors to make our connections. We'll take our other piece of wire here, strip that back as well. Go ahead and cut the red wire off. Go ahead and strip our wires back. Now since this is going to be the wire that runs over to the passenger side, we can go ahead and cut this yellow wire off as well. Now we're going to add an extra piece of brown wire to this side, as there's going to be a marker light at the center of the trailer that will run off the running light circuit. Go ahead and strip our wire back as well. For this connection, we'll be using the larger yellow heat shrink butt connectors. We'll then switch back to the smaller blue butt connector and connect our yellow wires together. Now we'll connect all our brown wires together. Now we have the brown wire to the driver side tail light. The brown wire that will run through the center marker light, these two brown wires, this one here runs from the front of the trailer and this brown wire here will run over to the passenger side. We tied all four of those together. All that's left to do still is tie the two green wires together. Now with all of our connections made, we'll go ahead and use our heat gun and seal off all the connectors. Go ahead and take a little electrical tape, wrap up our wires, giving more and more protection. Go ahead and take a piece of half-inch wire loom. We're going to put it over the top of all of our connections as well. Now we're going to go ahead and use some tapping loom clamps and self-tapping screws. To secure our wires, we run it over to the passenger side. Now we'll go ahead and feed our wire here through the holes. Now we'll come out over by where the light will be mounted on the passenger side. Over here on the passenger side, the part number for the light is STL-28RB. It's the same as the driver side, except for it doesn't have the license plate light. We'll go ahead and install it the same way we did over on the driver side. Again, we're going to have to add a couple of extra flat washers to take up the gap. Because there's a pretty large cut already in this trailer. Then put the lock washer on, followed by the hex nut. Take this white wire with the ring terminal on the end, feed our bolt through it and then we're going to come up here, put it through the hole in the trailer. We'll then put our lock nut on the back side. Go ahead and take our wrench and tighten things down Next, we'll go ahead and strip our two wires here back a little bit. The brown wire is the running light circuit, so we will be tying it in with the brown wire in this four bundle. The green wire is the brake and the turn signal, so we'll be tying that end with the green wire on this side. We'll go ahead and trim our four bundle here back to about the right length. We'll then take our razor knife and remove the rubber coating. Now we will not need the red wire or the yellow wire over here on this side, so we're going to go ahead and just trim them off. Go ahead and cut these to the length. We'll go ahead and strip a little wire back, so we can add our butt connector in. Slide our butt connector on. Take our crimpers and crimp it down. Repeat the same process on the other wire. Take the green wire. We'll connect it to the green wire. Once those connections are made, we'll go ahead and get our heat gun and seal them up. Again, we'll take our wire loom and place it over the wires and secure it in place with a couple of zip ties. Now we'll go ahead and test out our lights to make sure everything's working. Now we're using a tester to test our lights. But if you don't have a tester, your tow vehicle will work just fine. We'll begin here with the tail lights. Everything looks like it's working okay. Now we'll move on to the brake lights. You can see, it's much brighter than the running light. Now let's go ahead and test the turn signal. Now we'll go ahead and test the driver side. Again, here's the running lights, here's the brake, and here's the turn signal. That will do for our installation of the Deka jacketed, 4-wire trailer wiring, part number DW04923-1. .


Customer Reviews

Deka Jacketed 4-Wire - 14 Gauge - Per Foot - DW04923-1

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (71 Customer Reviews)


- DW04923-1
by:

I have been using etrailer for all of my trailer needs. They have great products and their customer service is second to none. They make my buying experience easy with their excellent web site. Thanks etailer Frank 406865



- DW04923-1
by:

tired of buying local parts store junk wire 2-3 times last year I had to repair wiring the cheap wire kept corroding 6-12 ' fr0m splice, wire was green and crumbly. This appears to be the fix, good quality wire decent price fast shipping you can't go wrong. 540218



- DW04923-1
by:

Excellent product used on a 16 foot trailer, replaced old wiring for a cleaner more trouble free system. 402864



- DW04923-1
by:

It has been over a year since I had rebuilt my trailers using parts purchased at etrailer. This is the first time that I have been able to put any real miles on the unit and with 800+ miles the lights and everything performed flawlessly. I will not think twice of making additional purchases from etrailer. 400315



- DW04923-1
by:

GREAT alternative to running the messy 4 wire string on the tongue of a utility trailer without brakes. Paired this with the 7pin trailer plug and I couldn't be more happy. The tongue of my boat trailer has this one solid lead coming out of the tongue into the 7Pin plug. Looks very clean. 349557



- DW04923-1
by:

One of the pieces I ordered (A65PB) came broken. It did not break in the mail. The broken piece was not in the package so it was pulled from the bin this way and not caught. Everything else was fine 440468



- DW04923-1
by:

I used a 50 foot length of this bundled wire to completely rewire a boat trailer. Overall, the quality was very good. My biggest complaint (and why I'm not giving it an "Excellent" rating) is that the wires used in the bundle were coarse-strand wires, which made it a bit difficult to work with especially when trying to tap a wire off the main bundle. It would have been better if this had been fine-strand wires, with more strands to make up the 14 gauge wire. Since the trailer's regularly submerged in water, wire taps were NOT an option; I ended up needing to use crimp connectors and heat-shrink tubing (which was another strong headache with this wire bundle), and combining two wires into one side of the connector (for example, branching off a running light feed from the main line going to the back) was a problem. If I were to do it again, I would use waterproof junction boxes, with this bundle as a main feed and individual wires coming out. Overall, other than the coarse-strand wire, I was very happy with this! 137208



- DW04923-1
by:

Good quality wire, feeds well and strips clean. 749921



- DW04923-1
by:

Great customer service...... After placing my order, Carol C followed up with an e-mail, to make sure I got my items, and that I was satisfied with them. The shipping time was fast, the prices were great, and I will order from etrailer.com , the next time. Thanks 749843



- DW04923-1
by:

Performs exactly as described and would highly recommend them for someone looking to give their trailer protection while operating during freezing temperatures. Easy to install and wire! 737222



- DW04923-1
by:

Great service and fast delivery! Awesome website and easy to find what I needed! 725862



- DW04923-1
by:

Worked as expected.would buy again 697277



- DW04923-1
by:

High quality, very flexible, and I have not used it yet, but am planning on using it to bring light circuits to the back of my 5th wheel for attaching lights to my bicycle carrier. 694763



- DW04923-1
by:

After a year of use on a commercial trailer, the wire has held up well. It turned a seemingly constant maintenance chore into a forgotten memory. They haven’t tore it up yet, and I can move on to something else. HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS WIRE, especially going from the trailer to the tow vehicle. Get the metal plug, solder the connections, and enjoy many wiring issue trouble free tows. 656360


Comments
A year later and they still haven’t torn it up. Still highly recommend using this wire.
Randy M - 06/11/2020

80486

- DW04923-1
by:

Item exactly as described. Good purcha se. 610071



- DW04923-1
by:

Excellent substitute for the old blue 4 wire. 594933



- DW04923-1
by:

Is exactly what I was looking for. I am using this to rewire Meyers snow plow on my 1948 Ford 8N tractor. 581612



- DW04923-1
by:

fast service, good quality parts 520619



- DW04923-1
by:

Haven’t used it yet. Appears good quality. 4 stars for good quality and manufacturing 473742



- DW04923-1
by:

Very nice quality wire 468185



- DW04923-1
by:

exact replacement thanks 462157



- DW04923-1
by:

Great item. 452701



- DW04923-1
by:

Excellent Quality, Perfect for my trail er. 452600



- DW04923-1
by:

This wire is just what I wanted . Has a thick jacket to protect the wires from hazzards . Very pleased with the quality . 442662



- DW04923-1
by:

This is a general review for etrailer. Over the past couple of years I have been ordering parts of various kinds from etrailer. I have been more than satisfied every time. Their products are good, their service is fast, and there is so much helpful information on the website that it takes the guess work out of ordering, and installing products after you receive them. Etrailer is doing a great job as an on-line service. Keep up the great work. 412948


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  • Wiring Needed to Tow Trailer Behind Trailer with Vehicle that has Second 4-Way Connector
    What you would need to make the adapter you want is 4-way jacketed wire sold by foot part # DW04923-1 (you'd need a quantity of 50) and then a 4-way on either side of that like what the part # 48195 offers and you'd be set. This will allow you to use the second 4-way trailer wiring connector you have at the rear of your vehicle.
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  • Recommended Wire Gauge to Wire 8 Marker Lights and 2 Taillights on a Homemade Camper
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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Zack K
Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Updated by:
Laura H
Updated by:
Mike S

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