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Deka Wire - Jacketed 7-Wire - per Foot

Deka Wire - Jacketed 7-Wire - per Foot

Item # DW04914-1
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Deka Wire - Jacketed 7-Wire - per Foot Jacketed Wire DW04914-1
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Call 800-298-1624 to order Deka accessories and parts part number DW04914-1 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Deka products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Deka Wire - Jacketed 7-Wire - per Foot. Accessories and Parts reviews from real customers.
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Deka Accessories and Parts - DW04914-1

  • Wiring
  • Wire
  • Deka
  • Jacketed Wire
  • 12 Gauge
  • 7 Wire


Features:

  • Manufactured to SAE and ATA specifications
  • Meets SAE J1128 specifications for use with 50 volts or less
  • Multiconductor stranded copper wire maintains flexibility
  • Entire cable is enclosed in a black vinyl jacket to reduce road hazards
  • Each conductor is insulated with a heavy vinyl covering
  • 6 Wires are 12 Gauge
  • White wire is 10 Gauge
  • Quantity: 1 foot
  • Total diameter: 0.4"
  • Made in the USA


04914 Deka Wire - Jacketed 7-Wire - per Foot





Video of Deka Wire - Jacketed 7-Wire - per Foot

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Deka Jacketed 7-Wire Review

Hi there, neighbors. Today, we're going to be taking a look at Deka's jacketed seven wire cable. It's available by the foot, so you can just get as long as you need. We used our Deka wire here to replace our old seven way here that's all busted up. You can see our wires are exposed. We had some shorting issues.

There's all kinds of electrical tape on it to patch it up. But with our new wire here, everything is sealed nicely inside the heavy, thick jacket, and having that heavy, thick jacket on it also makes it stay inside of our seven way connector better as the cable release there holds it in nice and tight and same with the other end where we've got it hooked to our junction box. Keeping everything sealed like this all the way down our cable is just going to ensure that we have long lasting seven way operation on our trailer.So it's going to be ready to use it when camping season comes around. Inside, we do have seven wires with your typical wire colors for trailer connections. Six of those are going to be a 12 gauge wiring, but our white wire inside, which is typically used for ground is going to be thicker at 10 gauge.

And I liked that they provided a thicker wire for our ground because everything that we power on our trailer has to use that ground circuit to make it back to the battery in our vehicle. The wires inside are going to be stranded wiring, which means it should have no problem flexing around and they will take a maximum of 50 volts on our circuits. So this wire is going to be great for making repairs on the seven way wiring for your utility trailers, your car haulers, your pop-up campers, as well as your fifth wheels.We're going to show you how to take a new seven way and get it all wired up, as well as upgrading our trailer from the wiring that just runs down to the frame to a junction box, so we can easily add accessories and test things in the future. We're going to start by mounting up our junction box. We're going to be placing ours underneath the storage area here for where you'd have your batteries.

We can put it right here on the frame, and we're just going to be using some self-tapping screws to get it mounted up. These don't come included with the junction box, but you can pick some up at your local hardware store. The best place to mount your junction box is somewhere where it's going to be out of the way, but also protected against anything that's going to hit it. So typically on the inside of your A-frames is a great place, or if you want to put it underneath the trailer on the frame, that's another good spot as well.It kind of depends on where your wiring's located, where you might want to do that. Since ours is popping out of the hole in the frame here, putting it near there's a great option, because we can easily bring it right out of that frame, into the box here, and then wire up our new seven pole connector and everything right to the box.

Then this will give us an easy access point for adding any accessories or performing any testing. If we have to do any maintenance on the trailer. We're just going to run our self-tappers in. So get it mounted up. It's going to hold it in the place where we want it and just start running them in.We now need to access the wiring here so we can bring it into the junction box to start making our connections. So you may need to peel back some sheathing and things like that. So we're going to go ahead and feel some back here so we can get that off or you just peel it back. However your sheathing may be set up. We need to make sure we've got enough length to get into our box and make all the connections. And it looks like that should be plenty about there. And we can go ahead and cut all our wires. Now, if you have a battery hooked up or anything, you may want to disconnect your battery or turn off your battery disconnect. However you need to do it to ensure you don't accidentally short out your powers and grounds and things like that. We don't have a battery on our trailer right now, so we're okay. We're just going to go ahead and cut all these.Now that we've got everything cut, we can strip back each one of the wires that we just cut. We can now take each of the wires that we stripped back. And we're going to crimp on one of the small ring terminals that come included with your junction box. We only have six here. You may have seven on yours. If you have a circuit for backup lights on your trailer, we do not on this one. We're just going to repeat that process until they're all crimped. On your thicker wires, it may be easier to get their yellow ones on there as they are ever so slightly bigger than our black ones.Now, most of your wiring does have sheathing on it, but if you have a section that doesn't, you may want to wrap it in electrical tape. I'm just wrapping a small section here for where it's going to pass through the junction box because you do clamp it down tight. So it will just give us a little bit more solid surface to clamp to. We do have multiple access points on our junction box. They just slide out and these are where we can slide our wiring in. You'll also have on the edges,, clamps that hold our wiring in place to act as a relief break. So we're going to go ahead and remove the screws on the clamps so we can put our wiring in.We can really just take off the one screw if you want. And then you can just kind of twist this piece aside. you do also receive new grommets that come in your kit that will slide in place where the old ones were, but these ones have a hole in them. So you can pass all your wiring through there as well. And we will just start color matching our wires to the appropriate stuts. Slide them all down underneath there to keep them out of the way. After we remove the nut, there's also a washer on there, slide that off and you can slide your wire on and then follow it up with the washer and a nut. We're just going to leave it loose for now because we are going to have to add more. That's just going to hold it in place. We're going to now just follow it down the line just matching up our wires.Once you've got everything connected here, when you wire up your seven way and you want to make sure you match all your functions appropriately for how they're hooked up to your seven way end. Now that we've got everything loosely connected here on this side, we can start building our new seven way end that we're going to connect over here. You can reuse your old one if there was nothing wrong with it, where you had cut it, you can just then re splice it back up, matching those wire colors back up. But since ours was damaged, we're going to be making a whole new one. And we'll go ahead and walk you through that too.Here, we've got our old seven way connector. You can see it's all busted up. We're going to be making a new one. And the easiest way to make a new connector is to just wire it up exactly as your old connector was, just use it as a reference if you can. So since we still have something left, we can use it. And if not, then you can just wire it up per function. And we'll go over the functions at the end for each one of the outputs. So that way, if you don't have a reference with your old one, you can make your own completely new. There are a couple of screws, usually, that hold the wires in place. And there is typically another screw located up here on your seven way that parts been busted out on this one. So there's nothing holding that part there, but this holds our wires. So we do need to loosen this up back here, and that will allow you to push the wires forward, revealing the backside of your connector.And this is where we're just going to start using this as our reference and wiring everything up. We're going to go ahead and take our connector and loosen up the bars, screw here at the back. Let's get that out of the way. Now, if you flip it over, there's a small set screw there. We'll also need to take that out. In a lot of cases, you won't have to take it all the way out. You can just loosen it up and that'll be enough to slide the front portion out. So then we're going to go ahead and take our wire, feed it in through the back.Go ahead and take that out as well and make it a little bit easier getting the wire fed in and our wire should push the end out just like that. Since we took that set, screw loose. We're just going to go ahead and just keep pushing it through a little bit until we've got enough to where we can work with our wire here. It's a little bit easier to slide it through first, before cutting it. And that way we also can ensure that down inside of here, we're going to have the sheathing where we're going to be pinching it down. So we really don't want to strip back the wires here too far. I'm only going to go probably about to there, and we're just going to use our razor knife to cut that.We can go ahead and peel it back. And then we're just going to use our wire cutters here to just snip the rest of this off. You just want to be careful not to cut your wires. Now that we've got all of our wires exposed, we're going to strip back each one of these wires. So here we've got our two ends holding them side by side so we can compare the two. And we're just going to start making connections. Easiest thing to do is to just pick one color and then just start with that one. That way you can just work your way around from there. So if we match them up, we can see black is going to this one here, so we're just going to start hooking our black wire up there.This is going to be our power circuit for the auxiliary power to charge the battery. There is a small plate underneath the screw. You need to make sure that your wire gets pinched between the plate when you tighten it back down. I'm just going to slide that up in there and then tighten it up. Now that we've got that one secure, we're just going to use our old connector here as a reference and just work our way around connecting the rest of the wires. So we're going to go ahead and go counter-clockwise and the next one we have here is green.So we're going to just move on with enough of our green, following that order. And then moving counter-clockwise, we move on to our green wire, which is our taillight running circuit. We then move on to the red next, which is our left turn stop circuit. Next is our white, which is ground then blue, which is our brake signal circuit for our brake controller. And we have Brown after that, which is going to be our right turn circuit. And then lastly, we have the yellow wire, which is in the center, and that is for our backup light circuit. With everything connected, we just slide the two ends back together, and then we can start reassembling the lock in the set screw.We're now going to take the other end of our new seven pole wire. We're going to strip back some of the sheathing and separate out the wires and then strip them back so we can put it into our junction box. You need to make sure all of our wires are going to reach. So we're going to take off a decent little section, probably about six inches. And we're just going to take that right off. When I'm cutting, I'm not cutting very deep. I actually run my finger down it to prevent the blade from going too deep. It's an easy way to control it, because once you score it like that, even if you didn't tell all the way through a lot of times, you can just pull it off like that. And we're going to use our snips again, to cut off any of the sheathing here.Now, just like on the trailer side, we're going to take each of these wires we stripped back and we're going to crimp on a ring terminals so we can connect it to the junction box. I've gone ahead and removed the grommet from where I want to place my new seven pole wiring and slid on the grommet that has the hole in it that comes in your kit. Go ahead and bring it around. We'll need to do just like we did before and loosen up the screws here on the hold downs. One of them was going to have to come completely out. We've got our wiring slid in. We're just going to tighten that clamp back down.I'm just kind of working back and forth, tighten it down evenly. And now we can connect all of our wires to the appropriate spots here on our junction box. Again, the biggest thing is that the functions are matching, not the wire colors. For this particular one here, I did wire it in a way that our wire colors are going to match up with your appropriate function. So I can just match up each of my wire colors. And since you're adding your own junction box, I highly recommend that you set up so that your wires match up properly with the appropriate colors. It just makes things easier in the future. So we'll just remove the nut and washer that we had loosely installed from before. And we're just going to slide each one on and then reattach the circuit with that washer and nut. We're just going to do that all the way down and then we'll come back and finish tightening them once we've got each one put in place.It's a little bit easier to work with your wires while everything's still a little bit loose. We can now go back and tighten them all up, once we've made all of our connections. We're going to use an eight millimeter socket to tighten down the nuts. I find it easiest for you to start doing it with the socket by hand, and then you can go back with your ratchet and finish snugging it down afterwards. With our yellow one there, you'll see, it just has the single wire going to it. That's coming from our seven way. But what's nice about that is that if we wanted to, we could easily add reverse lights to our trailer, and we've already got a stud right there that we can wire the lights up to and they're ready to work. Now that we've got all of our connections made, we can test it out to make sure everything's working properly.We're going to go ahead and hook it up to our tester, but if you wanted to, you could also hook it up to your truck to make sure everything's working properly. We've got our tester plugged in. Now we're just going to run through the functions. We've got our tail lights there. We have our left turn, our right turn, as well as our brake lights. Now for our electric brakes and 12 volt backup light circuits, it's actually easier to test those at the junction box. Since we don't have backup lights and we can't physically see the electric brakes and everything, we can just test it here on the box. We wired up our blue wire for the electric brakes. So I'm just going to go ahead and turn those on and we can see it's powered up. Now I turned it off, on. So our electric brake circuit is working properly.We wired up the black wire to our 12 volt power circuit. So we're just going to come over here to this. This is where we would charge our batteries from this, but the batteries are removed from this so we can't test that either. But when we turned it on, we can see it lights our test light, showing that we do have power here on our 12 volt charge circuit. And lastly is our reverse circuit, which we don't have reverse lights on here. That's this blown yellow pin, and we're going to go ahead and set the tester to backup lights and then test that.And that's all working properly as well. So we've tested all the functions that our trailer has and they're all working. Then we tested the extra pins for accessories we can add in the future and all of those are working properly. With everything all wired up, we can put our cover back on. I'm just going to double-check all of our grommets and make sure they're in place, because they do like to slide around on you when you're working inside the box. Now that I've made sure all those are in place, we can just slide our cover on. Then we'll attach it using the included screws. With our new wire hooked up our seven way is fully functioning and our installation's complete. And that completes our look at Deka's jacketed seven wire cable..


Customer Reviews

Deka Wire - Jacketed 7-Wire - per Foot - DW04914-1

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (167 Customer Reviews)


- DW04914-1
by:

Ordered the wire for a trailer project and it worked great. The wire is high quality and better than what I found locally.



- DW04914-1
by:

This wire is very easy to work with and splices nicely. Used in conjunction with a terminal box and a molded 7pin connector lead made my rewire a breeze. Spend a few extra dollars and buy heat shrink or heat shrink connectors and quality cable clamps.



- DW04914-1
by:

This wire worked well for connecting my 7 pole rv socket to the tail light wires inside a transit van. I ordered 5 feet and it was just long enough. I did not anticipate going half way up the tail light to get behind the side panel. it is a well made product that is easy to work with.



- DW04914-1
by:

Etrailer are great to work with, easy, fast shipping, friendly customer service. I highly recommend them for your trailer needs. Thanks



- DW04914-1
by:

GREAT PRODUCTS,just what i needed to rewire a friends trailer,his wiring had been cut and slpiced so many times by otheres, so it was time for a rewire now the junction box i think could be little larger and have a ground wire attached to it as well, i know the trailer is grounded when attached to the tow vehicle, but an extra ground attached to the trailer is even better, but it all works very well, After the trailer was wired correctly, now its time to do the same to the tow vehicle since someone told told him the brake controller was bad and needed to be replaced,not the case, replaced the plug and wiring on the tow vehicle as well , he now had lights that are in working order and brakes to help stop him as well



- DW04914-1
by:

Good jacketed 7 wire. Flexible, good quality and used my use was for wiring up a light motorcycle trailer. Customer service was great and shipping was fast.


Comments
Hard to wear out good cable...and this has been good cable.
hdlonestar - 07/30/2016



- DW04914-1
by:



- DW04914-1
by:

Good durable yet flexible cable with a nice thick protective coating. Purchased 10' of cable and the trailer wire junction box to upgrade the wiring on my open deck trailer. I like the upsized ground wire- most problems with wiring can be traced back to a poor ground wire and/or connection at the trailer. Having the larger ground wire will help to eliminate grounding issues- as long as it is installed properly!



- DW04914-1
by:



- DW04914-1
by:

No issues with the cable.



- DW04914-1
by:

Though I have not time tested these products, I must say that out of the box, I am impressed. This is serious, proper wiring- hard to find stuff. The Hopkins plug and Deka wire have a really nice casing, it has a smooth finish- cuts well, and the individual wires handle nicely. The junction box was exactly as pictured, and made the job so much cleaner and easier. I will put one of these boxes on all 3 of my trailers! I was blown away at the help I got over the phone when ordering. Caleb helped steer me in the right direction, and I'm well on my way to a fully rewired and restored trailer. Thanks again guys- I'll be back for help with my other rigs!



- DW04914-1
by:

I have not installed the Deka - Jacketed 7-Wire electrical cable yet. However, I did do a visual and physical inspection. The cable appears to be heavy duty yet flexible. I'm looking forward to using this cable in conjunction with a new Pollak Black Plastic, 7-Pole, RV Blade-Style Trailer Socket (PK12-707E). My order was delivered faster than expected. Although, I guess I should not be surprised. etrailer has always been a reliable, class act.



- DW04914-1
by:

I ordered all the equipment to help my son rewire his enclosed trailer. We got everything as ordered and it all worked out great. I had emailed etrailer multiple times to discuss what exactly I needed. They were great and their help was above and beyond. Any trailer parts, wiring, etc., you need, this is the place to get it!



- DW04914-1
by:



- DW04914-1
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- DW04914-1
by:

Really nice cable! Very heavy duty cable that has a heavy jacket protecting the inner insulated wires. Everything about this cable speaks rugged, weatherproof and long-lasting. It's also very nice having the larger sized white ground (10 gauge) wire. I'm quite impressed and pleased!



- DW04914-1
by:

I am glad I came upon this site. The staff is friendly courteous and helpful. Since I live in Canada it is a big problem if I had to send items back across the border to etrailer if the items were not what I thought they were. The short videos that etrailer provides with each product is extremely helpful in determining to purchase or not. Thank you for that feature. Knowing a little about video production and the costs associated with that, it must cost etrailer a pile to give us (the consumers) what appears to be a simple addition on their site Thanks again guys/gals



- DW04914-1
by:

The wire was exactly what I needed. Good quality cable and relatively easy to strip.



- DW04914-1
by:



- DW04914-1
by:

I base this review on my past experience with other cables I bought from etrailer in the past. I haven't used this last cable as of yet. I am rewiring a camper trailer for a friend to rid the camper of poor wiring for the tail and clearance lights. The quick and friendly service and the quality of parts that I have received from etrailer warent a review that I rarely grant to anyone. I say thanks to George J.



- DW04914-1
by:

Anything that is worth doing at all is always worth doing well.This wire is so good starting from the sturby looks to what it does.I am not disappointed at all.There is one thing that got me hooked to etrailer,they will always explain things to you from the smallest to the biggest in writing and with video clips so you will not be alone,you will know that definitely somebody has your back and for sure you will have an idea of what you are buying because there will always be an explanation for it.I just say thank you for the wonderful job that you guys are doing.



- DW04914-1
by:

This 7-wire cable worked perfectly for all of the electrical connections on my utility trailer. The outer cover is tough and will protect my wiring under the trailer.



- DW04914-1
by:

Received 6 wire, NOT 7 wire. Color code was all off too (or at-least didn't match a typical 7 wire). Was in a pinch to get a trailer done before a trip, so had to make it work instead of trying to return and wait for eTrailer to correct. Disappointed.



- DW04914-1
by:



- DW04914-1
by:

Been using it on my gooseneck and still holding up great. Maintains flexibility in winter and abrasion resistant.


Comments
Can get a little stiff in the winter, otherwise works as expected.
Jonathan H - 10/24/2018


25
167
Show More Reviews

Ask the Experts about this Deka Accessories and Parts

  • Parts Needed to Install 7-Way and Brake Controller in 1981 Chevy Truck
    For 7-way wiring you could run from the cab of your truck back to the rear of it we have the jacketed 7-way wiring part # DW04914-1. We don't normally offer wiring for this portion of a vehicle but this would work if you have the 7-way wires present near the cab. Normally in this situation we recommend installing a 4-way like the # 119190KIT which wires to taillight circuits and then converting to a 7-way with the # ETBC7 like you referenced so that you can install a brake controller...
    view full answer...
  • Which Wire is 10 Gauge in the Jacketed 7-Wire Trailer Wiring, # 127C500-1
    I went out to the warehouse to examine the wires contained in the jacket 7-wire, # DW04914-1. The white wire is actually the 10 gauge wire and the others are all 12. You would still use the white wire for the brakes if you wanted but traditionally, though there is no standard, white is the ground. Or, if you wanted separate blue wire, 10 gauge, you could use # 10-1-1. Both of these wires are sold in 1 foot increments.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended 7-way Wiring Harness for Upgrading Trailer to 7-way by Adding Brakes and Reverse Lights
    I recommend the # e99011 junction box kit for your trailer. This kit includes a 7-Way trailer connector, a wiring junction box with mounting hardware, 8 ring terminals for 12- to 10-gauge wire, 8 ring terminals for 16- to 14-gauge wire, 10 foot of wire loom, and 1 self-tapping ground screw. You will also need an appropriate length of duplex wire # 12-2-1 to connect your brakes. The 7-way trailer plug # H20046 included in this kit will have the auxiliary wire that is used for reverse...
    view full answer...
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  • Which Wire of the Deka Wire # DW04914-1 Should Be Used for Reverse Light Circuit
    On the Deka Wire # DW04914-1 that you referenced there isn't a purple wire, instead you would want to use the black wire as the reverse light circuit. Green for right turn/stop Yellow for left turn/stop White for ground Brown for running lights Blue for brake output Red for 12 volt accy Black for reverse
    view full answer...
  • How to Make a 25 foot Long 7-Way Wiring Harness
    We have what you would need to make a 25 foot long 7-way harness. You would need the part # DW04914-1 which is jacketed 7-way wiring sold by the foot. And then for a connector part # A7WCB.
    view full answer...
  • Why Use 10-Gauge Wire # 10-2-1 Rather Than 12-Gauge # 12-2-1 for Electric Trailer Brake Circuits
    You are correct that Deka Jacketed 7-Wire # DW04914-1 uses 12-gauge conductors for all but the ground wire, which is 10-gauge. There are several variables with trailer brake wiring that we generally do not know when our customers ask about the wire gauge that should be used for re-wiring a trailer's electric brakes. The length of the trailer (and the required wiring) and the number of axles (and brake assemblies) can vary and when we do not know all of the particulars for every installation...
    view full answer...
  • Parts Needed to Re-Wire Car Hauler Trailer Lights and Brakes
    We can help you with selecting parts to re-wire your trailer's lights and brakes. Trailer size affects the number and types of lights required to be DOT-compliant. I linked for you an article that covers the lighting requirements for trailers of various sizes. This will help you determine what is required for your specific trailer. For lighting you might want to consider one of our complete lighting kits. Kit # TL29BK uses standard incandescent light bulbs and kit # TLL9RK uses high-efficiency...
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  • How is the Length of the Deka Wire - Jacketed 7-Wire DW04914-1 Ordered
    The # DW04914-1 is actually sold by the foot. What you would need to do is order a quantity of the length you need and we will ship you out the length you need.
    view full answer...
  • Should Each Brake on a Single Axle Trailer be Wired Directly to a Junction Box
    The brake wires can be spliced together and have one wire run to the junction box if that is easiest for you. On a single axle you could also have separate brake wires for both sides if you wanted to but most of the time there is a single wire out to the brakes and it will Tee off to each side.
    view full answer...
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  • Switchable Truck Bed Light Recommendation for Truck Bed 7-Way
    The Light Buster Backup and Utility Light # C8020 that you referenced is actually exactly what you are looking for. As long as the 12 volt circuit of your 7-way is active this light can be used. It has a switch on the light too which allows you to turn it off and on as needed.
    view full answer...
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  • What Gauge Wire Can Trailer Brake Circuit Have
    That is a valid question. We strongly recommend people use 10 gauge wire like the part # 10-1-1 (sold by the foot), but we realize that there are a lot of people who get by with 12 gauge wire. There are several variables with trailer brake wiring that we generally do not know when our customers ask about the wire gauge that should be used for re-wiring a trailer's electric brakes. The length of the trailer (and the required wiring) and the number of axles (and brake assemblies) can vary...
    view full answer...
  • Adding a Deka Jacketed 7-Wire to a Trailer
    The jacket on Deka Wire - Jacketed 7-Wire # DW04914-1 is going to provide an extra layer of protection for the trailer wiring. You might consider moving the junction box as far back on the trailer as possible. This way the bulk of your wiring will be jacketed and protected. Personally, I'd install the junction box toward the front of the trailer, running the Hopkins molded trailer connector right into it. From the junction box, run the 3-wire bonded wire # 16-3B-1 for the lighting circuits...
    view full answer...
  • Will 12V Wire at Vehicle End Trailer Connector Be Hot Even When Truck and All Lights Are Off
    The 12V wire at the vehicle-end trailer connector being hot even when the truck is off can vary depending on the application. For all aftermarket hardwiring installations of a 7-Way wiring harness, the 12V wire will be hot at all times, even when the truck is off and no lights are on in the trailer. This is because the 12V power wire is ran from the vehicle battery, then typically to a circuit breaker, then to the trailer connector. In OEM applications, it will vary depending on the...
    view full answer...
  • How to Make a 9-Pin to 7-Way Adapter
    To adapt your 9-pin trailer plug to work with the 7-way connector on the truck, you would need the 9-pin vehicle side connector that you referenced, part # R9CB. A length of 7-wire cable # DW04914-1 from the 9-pin would be tapped into the relevant circuits behind the 7-way, with the two remaining terminals being connected as needed. For a more temporary install, the 9-way R9CB could be temporarily attached to the truck, with a length of # DW04914-1 wired to the appropriate terminals on...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Wire Gauge for Trailer Electric Brake Assemblies
    For brake assembly wiring, we recommend either twelve gauge wire # 12-1-1 or ten gauge # 10-1-1 due to the length of the wiring and the amperage required. Both of these options are sold by the foot. You will connect one end to the junction box using Ring Terminal - 12-10 Gauge Wire - 3/16" Ring ID # 44-5310A or a butt connector like # DW05745-5. The other end will use the same ring terminal to connect to the trailer frame or axle to provide ground for your brake magnet. I've attached...
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  • Wiring and Lighting Component Recommendations to Re-Wire Tandem-Axle Car Hauler Trailer with 7-Way
    A junction box like the Spectro # 38656 is a perfect way to re-wire your tandem-axle car hauler. This box provides plenty of room inside its weather-proof housing to make all of your lighting, 12V and brake signal connections. Please refer to the linked video. We use this box on just about all of our in-house re-wiring jobs. You'll also want to use ring terminals like 3M part # 44-5310A for all of the junction box connections; these will both save you time and provide longer-lasting...
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  • Outside Diameter of Deka Jacketed 7-Wire
    The Deka Wire # DW04914-1 has a total outside diameter of 0.6 inches. The white wire is 10 gauge and the other 6 wires are 12 gauge. It's sold by the foot.
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  • Will the # DW04914-1 Cable Fit in the Hopkins Endurance 7-Way connector # HM48470
    I pulled a short length of the cable from the warehouse and found that is measures .6 inches in diameter. The cable is a tight squeeze, but it will fit through the hole in the rear of the connector. I stripped some of the wires and found that the copper conductors are pretty stiff, I doubt you would be able to wrap them around the terminals of the connector. Using some crimp on ring terminals like part # 44-5310A or fork terminals would be your best bet.
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  • Can Individual Wires From Deka Jacketed 7-Wire Be Used to Re-Wire Trailer
    There's no reason at all that you couldn't use the Deka Jacketed 7-Wire # DW04914-1 to re-wire your trailer like you described. The individual wires inside the jacket are 10 and 12 gauge wire which is plenty large enough to span the length of a trailer and the jacket can easily be cut and taken off so you can separate all the wires. My best recommendation in your particular case is to simply go with the most cost-effective option. I have attached a short video review that you can check...
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  • Parts Needed to Make HD 7-Way Male to 7-Way Female Adapter
    Sounds like you are looking for HD 7-way connector, male and female connected by jacketed wire to replace an adapter you currently have. Since we do not have them all together you would need to piece them together like what you mentioned. For wire you would need the part # DW04914-1 (sold by the foot). The # PK11720 would be the female end and the # PK11700 would be the male end.
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  • Are the Molded Trailer Connectors Available In Traditional Wiring and Not RV
    I do have an option for you but all of our molded trailer connectors come wired with the RV standard format. That said, you can purchase the jacketed wire part # DW04914-1 and trailer connector part # PK12706 separately then wire them how you need.
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  • Is Deka Wire Jacketed 7-Wire # DW04914-1 Flexible
    It's hard to give an exact way to tell you how flexible the Deka Wire Jacketed 7-Wire # DW04914-1 is but if you check out the review video I attached you'll see that it's coiled pretty tight and when he moves the wiring it easily flexes without much effort or stiffness.
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  • Amperage Rating of Deka Wire
    The Deka Wire # DW04914-1 has six 12 gauge wires and one 10 gauge wire. They are copper wires, and 12 gauge copper wires are rated for 20 amps while 10 gauge copper wires are rated for 30 amps. I've added some video reviews on this product for you to take a look at.
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  • Reverse Light, Battery Charger Recommendations for Utility Trailer
    To add two reverse lights, one on each side of the rear of the utility trailer, I recommend the Sealed, 6-1/2 inch LED Clear Oval Trailer Utility Light, 10 Diode, # BUL72CB. You will also need a rubber grommet, # a70gb, for each light, and a pigtail, # A45CB, for each light. To mount the lights, you can use Mounting Bracket # BK70BB. You would then need to wire the lights to come on with the tow vehicle reverse lights. You would need to convert the tow vehicle and trailer from 4-Way...
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  • Wire Gauges Used in Deka Jacketed 6-Wire and 7-Wire Trailer Wiring
    The wiring harness kits we offer for your 1996 Ford F-250 are all 4-pole types like # 118316 and the others shown on the linked page. The include a white ground wire, yellow left turn/stop wire, green right turn/stop wire and a brown running light wire. 6-wire jacketed cable like # DW04906-1 from Deka does use all 14-gauge conductors. Their 7-wire cable, part # DW04914-1, does use heavier 12-gauge wires for all except the ground, which is a 10-gauge. Both meet SAE J1128 specifications...
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  • Can Vinyl Sleeve Be Removed From Deka Wire # DW04914-1
    Yes, the 10 and 12 gauge wires that covered by the vinyl jacket on the Deka Wire # DW04914-1 are strong enough to stand up to normal trailer use when exposed. Without the jacket covering they will be more prone to damage from road debris/hazards during travel but plenty of trailers use un-jacketed wiring along the length of the frame and these wires in particular are actually of heavier-gauge than what you would normally find on a trailer. I have attached a short video review on this...
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  • Does Brake Output Circuit of Jacketed DEKA Trailer Wiring DW04914-1 Have Heavy Enough Gauge Wire
    The brake output wire of the jacketed 7-way wiring part # DW04914-1 that you referenced does come with a heavy enough gauge of wire for your brake circuit. The 12 gauge brake output circuit would work well.
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  • Availability of Replacement Trailer Wiring for Car Hauler
    We don't offer a once piece harness, but I can recommend what you'd need to wire your trailer. I'd recommend using a 7-way connector, like # H20046. Keep in mind that the connector uses a different wire color code than usual. You'll find the color code on the product page I've linked for you. I'd then recommend you terminate the wiring from the connector in a junction box like part # 38656. Using a junction box makes for a neat and weatherproof installation. Use bonded 3 wire, part #...
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  • What is the Outer Diameter of Deka Wire - Jacketed 7-Wire
    I went out to the warehouse to measure the outer diameter of the Deka Wire - Jacketed 7-Wire # DW04914-1 for you. Using digital calipers I measured the outer diameter at 0.60 inches which is just slightly less than 5/8 inch.
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  • Parts Needed to Connect Gooseneck Trailer to Semi-Truck 7 Pole Round Plug
    You can use the Pollack # PK11700 to install on your gooseneck trailer and create a 7 way plug capable of fitting on the 7 pole round plug that is on a semi tractor trailer truck. For the wiring you can use the Deka Jacketed 7 Wire # DW04914-1 which is a jacketed 7 wire sold by the foot that will allow you to connect to your trailer's wiring and the plug. If you just want to go the adapter route, you can use the Pollack # PK12-724.
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