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Bulldog Winch Custom-Fit Steel ATV Winch Mount

Bulldog Winch Custom-Fit Steel ATV Winch Mount

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ATV Winch Mount

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Bulldog Winch ATV Winch Mount - BDW15165
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Bulldog Winch ATV Winch Mount

  • UTV Winch Mount
  • Bulldog Winch


  • Custom-fabricated steel winch mount for Polaris Ranger 400, EV, 500, and 800 midsize
  • Accepts both 122.5 mm and 151 mm roller fairleads


15165 Bulldog Winch Custom-Fit Steel Winch Mount

Item # BDW15165



This Product Fits The Following Vehicles




Video of Bulldog Winch Custom-Fit Steel ATV Winch Mount

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Bulldog UTV or Utility Winch Installation - 2015 Polaris Ranger

Today on our 2015 Polaris Ranger, we're going to take a look at and show you how to install the Bulldog Winch 1.6-hp UTV and utility winch. It's going to be rated at 3500 pound. Part number is BDW15005. Whether we're out riding on our UTV/ATV for fun, maybe on the job site, whatever the case may be, eventually we're probably going to wind up stuck somewhere. We've got a great product from Bulldog winch. This is their 3500-pound winch, 1.6 horsepower. It's going to give us great pulling power, especially for these heavier UTVs, bigger ATVs, and things like that to really help us get out our sticky situations.

Then, with a simple press of our button, that cable is going to tighten right up and we'll be on our way. As a secondary operation mode, we've got our remote switch, 15' of cable on this. This might keep us out of those bigger mud holes while we're trying to get our rig back on the way. All we have to do is hit the button and there we go. If we need to release any, we hit the out button. As you can see with our winch in free spool mode, we can easily draw our cable out to make our connection.

As you can see, the hand saver strap does a good job of allowing us to draw our cable out of our winch without having to hang on to that wire rope or hook that might cause damage to our hands. Then, we can hook our hook right back to our ATV and we'll be ready to make our pull. Once we've got our connection made, we'll turn our winch from free spool and engage our clutch and we'll be ready to pull out. With snatch 00:01:53 block in place, you can really hear how much less work the winch 00:01:56 is doing pulling the same load through the same mud and it's not working nearly as hard. Here, you can see our 55' of wire rope really allows us to reach out there and get to those good anchor points.

You can see the small reinforcement cover here on our end loop to help to prevent any wear. Now, our winch uses a mechanical brake. By design, we've got the motor separated from the casing and we've got a hollow drum in the middle and the mechanical drum located inside. Any time we stop function on our winch, it locks our winch in position. That allows us to, with out UTV sitting here in neutral no foot on the brake, to maintain this angle or maintain our position on the hill. A lot of other winches that you see out there use what's called a dynamic brake.

It's really not a brake at all. What it uses is the resistance of the motor and the gears to keep it from pulling out. If we we're too heavy and if we overrode the resistance, we'd go slipping right down the hill. The advantage of that mechanical brake can really save us a lot of time when we're working and also be much safer. You can see, no matter where we want to stop on our incline, our mechanical brake is going to hold us in that position. One of the first things that we're going to do for our installation is get the hood out of the way. It's not going to be required for the install but it's certainly going to make it a lot easier for you guys to see what we're doing here. If you decide to do it, you'll let your hood rest forward here. At the back of each light, we're going to have an electrical connector. Pull those tabs out and we can slide it right out like that. Do that on both sides and we'll have a few plastic clips here. Once we've got that off, we'll let that rest up here out of the way. Then, we need to pull the 2 clips. We'll have one on each side. We can support the hood while we push out those small pins. Now, we can sit this somewhere safe until we need it to put it back on. Now, we're going to remove the 2 bolts. You'll need a 1/2" socket. We've got 2 on each side. We're going to remove one completely and the other one almost all the way. Once it's out, I'm going to put 1 or 2 threads back in there. That will give us support while we get the rest of our bolts out. We'll do the same thing on the other side. Now, if we look right underneath the front, we're going to have 1, 2, and 3 right there that we'll remove. We'll hang on to our bumper and take out those other 2 bolts and it'll come right off. We'll slide it forward like that. Now, we're going to take out the 2 Torx bits. We're going to have one on each side. That's going to allow us to remove that covering there. We'll use a T40 bit and you'll want to hang on to that in case you ever remove the winch or return it to the customer if you're doing it for somebody else. For our application today, we're going to be using the mounting plate from Bulldog Winch. This is BDW15165. That's for the mid-sized. That's going to be your 2x2, where you sit 1 guy and 1 person. If you have the 3-wide or what they consider the full-size where you can sit 3 people across the front, you're going to want to use BDW15174. What we want to do is take the L-part, the shorter section of that L-part, we want that to face down towards the bottom of our bumper, and we're going to see not only are the holes that we removed our screws from going to line up but also the 2 holes right above it. For our upper hole locations, we're going to use one of the 5/16" x 3/4" bolts and one of the 5/16 nylon lock nuts. There are going to go through. We can also thread the factory bolts back in that we removed. Now, we want to pull our mount plate all the way down towards the bottom of the bumper and then we can simply tighten up our bolts. Now, we'll get our side brackets installed. These are going to fit around the underside of the vertical bumper supports. You can see the holes are offset. We want that longer space to be toward the front of our machine. I'm going to bring that down. We want to use our 1" x 5/16" bolts. Come up through out plate and let's get them started. For the outside plates, we're going to take one of our 1" x 5/16" bolts, that will go through the side plate and then we're going to slide on a flat washer and a nylon lock washer. We'll do the same thing for our other side. Now, we'll grab our 1/2" wrenches again and tighten down out bolts. Now, we'll grab our roller fairlead and we're going to place our two 8mm x 20mm bolts through it. We'll have 2 different sets of holes here to use for our fairlead mounting location. This is going to accept both the 122.5mm and the 151mm fairlead. Set it right down the inside holes. On the back side, we need to put a flat washer, a lock washer, and one of our nuts. Now, we can get those bolts tightened down. Now, we'll take our cable end, we're going to pass that through the roller fairlead here on the front and bring it right up and position it with the 4 holes on our bracket. I'll take our 8mm x 25mm bolts, we'll need to get those threaded in all 4 of those locations. On those, we'll have a flat washer and also lock washer. Let's get these tightened down. To prevent our cable from being pulled back in, we can add on our hook. What we've got there is a pin on the other is a cotter pin. That will slide through, then each side will get bent back to hold that from slipping out. The winch mounting plate is going to work out well for several different types of winches. When we get into the larger winches, we'll have the 6.6 on 3. From center to center, it's 6.6", and from center to center here, it's 3". We move into the next set. We've got the 4.9". From center to center, we're 4.9", still staying with the 3" center to center here, and then, if we're using a 2-hole winch setup, we've got 3" out to about 3-1/4" that we can be able to bolt in there. You can see the elongated hole here in the top is going to give us a little bit of flexibility there. It's a really nice bracket. It helps out with several different types of winches to get them mounted. Now, we can replace out bumper. We'll slide it right back on the brackets that attached it here at the top. We want to thread our bolts right back in to their original location there. Let's also get the 3 started on the bottom, then we can tighten it up. With the winch installed, let's go ahead and start making a few of our electrical connections. We're going to start with the 5' lengths of the 6-gauge red and black wire. As you can see, they're pre-crimped. They're going to have the connectors right there on the end. Red is going to go to the red stud that's on our winch. The black is going to go to the other one. You can see right here is going to be the stud. It's going to have 2 hex-head nuts and have 2 flat washers, and then, you can see that little red indicating that's our positive side. We want to take off the first nut and the first washer. Both washers wanted to come off. That's not really a big deal. We'll put them back on. Now, we'll take the end of our red cable and once we've got the slid on, we're going to take our flat washer and slide that on and then thread our hex nut back on. Let's use our wrench and get that nut tightened right down on there, and then, what we'll want to do is take one of the supplied rubber boots, we're going to fit the big end over the cable and we're going to slide that all the way down so it will cover those nuts up. Here's what we'll wind up with. We'll have our positive cable running up and the boot protecting our connection. We repeat the same process for our negative cable here, sliding our washer over and putting our nut on. Something I like to do, it's not going to be required, is to use some wire loom or in this case a little bit of electrical tape to put our wires together, the red and the black can really stand out running underneath the hood area here. If you tape them up, they can blend in a little bit better. We're going to run our wires over to where we're mounting our contactor. In our case today, we're going to be mounting it underneath the driver seat. We want to keep it high. We want to keep it dry. I got my wires taped off. I'm going to run these across the front compartment here. A few things to avoid, of course, are going to be sharp edges, significant sources of heat, anything that we might be worried about causing damage to the wires themselves. I'm going to go around the end of the radiator there. As you can see, we're avoiding the axles here. We don't want to make contact with that. We don't want to make contact with the steering shaft. That should be a good line to follow there. Use a few zip ties anywhere we can to get it anchored out. Now, we'll route it, it's going to be the driver side floorboard here. We're going to go right over that piece of hat channel and back, and that's going to allow us to go into the side of our cubby right here. Now, it's time to take care of getting our switches mounted into place or our switch mounted into place. In the instructions, it gives you Option 1 or Option 2. Option 1 is going to be the handlebar clamp that's made to bolt right onto the bracket. It's been added onto our pressure switch here. As you can see, it's got protective fins on each side. If you do handlebar mount it or mount it somewhere where it's easily accessible, you won't have to worry about accidental bumping. As a second option, they offer the standard plugin. It's going to be like your more traditional winch control. We'll have an in. We've got an out, and that's simply going to plug right in to make our connection. We can mount that permanently on our machine somewhere to where it will be easily accessible so we can plug in our handle. As a third option, we can actually use both of these. We can have the ease of an in-cab easily accessible switch inside and we can also put our plug as the more external option. Bulldog has wired them as so. If we look at the end of the plug style and if we look at the end of our regular handlebar switch style, we can actually plug this one right into the other one and then plug this into our contactor. We have dual-feed setup here. Of course, we'll clean it up, put some electrical tape, and make sure everything it nice and secure. This is great way to have a double option as far as how to power the winch. The red wires on each of the plugs here, these need to go to an ignition source that comes on when the key is on. When we turn the key into the on position, we want these to be powered. That's going to tell our winch that it can go ahead and operate. Since we are doing this on Polaris today, I'm going to take the housing off of this switch. I'm going to back out the bolts on each side there. We want to hang on to those in case we ever want to change the setup. As you see here, I can separate that housing out and we've got a switch that has the locking tabs on the top and bottom so we can slide it directly into our dashboard once we cut out a small hole to allow for it. We're going to start by getting our remote plug installed. The customer asked us if we'd put it right here in the center of this panel. I think it's a great spot, recessed slightly so it's not going to stick out too much and it should be out of the way. We'll get our measurements there and find the center. Once we've got that center marked, we'll take our hole saw, we're using a 7/8", and get that hole drilled out. You do want to check behind to make sure we don't have any wire or anything like that. With that hole drilled out, we'll take the end of our male side plug there and run that through that hole and then go ahead and secure it like that. Once we have it where we want it, we need to mark both hole locations and we're going to use a 5/32" drill bit and make 2 small holes. Now, we can take our supplied hardware, slide the through both of those holes, and then we'll place our flat washer, lock washer, and nut on the backside and get them tightened down. Now, we can use a wrench or a socket, place it right over there to hold it in place, and then tighten down our Phillips-head screws here on the front side. These don't need to be overly tight. We want them tight enough to smash our lock washer. We're going to be using this small false plug to mount that switch in. What I'm going to do is find the center of it. That's going to be our center point. Let's get that marked and then we'll mark the outline of our switch. Now, we want to use a small straight edge here and connect our lines. Using a paint marker like I'm doing, we want to stay inside that way we don't have any marker showing outside. I'm always going to air on the side of cutting it a little bit small and then opening up a little larger rather than getting it too big to start and then having to backtrack. We'll put a couple holes in there to get our razor knife started. Now, we'll run a little test fit to see if our switch is going to go in properly. If not, we'll work it out a little bit more. The switch is mounted. Now, we can pull the tag end of our wires out. What I'm going to do with the one coming from our switch, you can see the red wire on that. It doesn't come out of the loom until a little bit further down. I want to turn that back. We're going to be making the connection right here on this wire. I'll trim it up to about that spot and I can tape the loom back up. If you are going to do this, be sure not to cut the wiring itself, the housing on the outside there. I'm also going to bring over the red wire from my plugin port. This wire, we'll let these hang out for a minute. We'll use a little bit of tape and go over that allowing that red wire to separate out. I'm going to run the end of that right over here by my other black and green wire. You can see right here is the shifter linkage. That's what allows you to shift your gears here. We want to make sure that's not going to come in contact with our wire. We can bring it back behind that and get it zip tied up. I'm going to use a little bit of tape in a few places along the way on these wires to make them into one. I'm going to take the green wire from our switch and we're going to plug it into the green wire from the plug. Put some tape on that. We're going to do the same thing for our black wire. With those taped up, we'll be left with our single connection for the green wire and single connection for our black wire to plug in to our contactor. We'll start right behind those two plugs and again with the tape . everything together to make it look nice and neat. Now that we've got those joined into one wire, we're going to route that right down and right back along the same way we routed our winch cables. Now, we'll put some zip ties anywhere we have the opportunity and get our wiring secured and held up out of the way. Now, let's get some tape put on both of our red wires here, trying to gather them up and get them together. What I want to do is bring these 2 wires down to one wire. I'm going to trim them both off. I'm going to strip each side back and we'll twist these together and add on a heat shrink butt connector. We'll crimp that side down. We can take one of the lengths of red wire that we cut off. We might as well strip both ends. We'll only be using one right now. Strip that one back about twice as far as normal and then bend that over to give us a little bit more wire for our connector to bite onto. That will go on the other side. Give it a good pull to make sure you've got a nice connection made, and then, we'll, take our heat source . In this case, we're going to use a lighter. You could also use a heat gun. If you're going to use a lighter, use the lower part, the blue part of the flame. That won't leave any of that black stuff on there that you can get sometimes. We'll let that cool a second and we'll wrap that up with a little bit of tape as well. While we're waiting on that, this is going to be the wire that comes from the back of our ignition switch. One of these wires is going to come on when the key is turned on and it will be off when its off. Let's expose these, again, really gentle. We don't want to cut any of the wires. As you can see running through that loom, there's going to be 5 wires. We're going to take a normal test light and we can start by testing the wires with the key off to see if any of them have power. It looks like that's a no. Now, we'll turn the key on and run that same test. You can see there once we've got on the orange wire, as our key goes on so does the power and when it goes off it goes off. We'll be tying that red wire right into that orange wire. Let's go ahead and separate that orange wire out. We'll snip it. We'll strip back both sides. We'll add a butt connector on to one side of that orange wire. We're not going to need near that much red wire. We'll take our red wire and wrap that around or twist it up with our orange wire there. That will go on the other side of our butt connector and then shrink it down. Now, we'll use a little bit of electrical tape and wrap that factory harness back up and also our red wire coming in. That should take care of everything under the hood area here that we're going to have to do. Now, we'll put our hood back on, and we're also going to replace our clips, remember for our lights that we took off. We'll also plug our plugs back in. Now, we're going to be mounting our contactor inside the driver seat storage area here. You want to make a hole on each side to allow our cables to come through and wires for our switches. I'm not sure exactly where we're going to mount the contactor. That depends on the lengths of cable we have. We need to be adaptive, but I do know I want my wires to come in the front and go out of the back. Let's get these holes drilled again. A 7/8" hole saw should do the job. Let's do that on both sides. Let's start making a few of our contactor connections here. What we want to do is hook the winch side into the part that's closest to the mounting bracket or into the 2 studs closest to the mounting bracket. They'll be away from the 3 screws. They're color-coded there. Red is red. Black is black. We're going to make our connections here but one thing that we've done we did have our contactor quite up high enough to keep it up and dry because sometimes that gets water in it. We've actually substituted a set of jumper cables for our cables. We've modified them slightly. Those are part number DRJC166, and we also have part number SWC57016. We needed 4 of those. Those are ring terminals to clamp on the end. On a 2 or 3-seater version of the Ranger or even a 4-wheeler, you wouldn't really have to worry about it, but with this being the dual row where there's 2 rows of seats, it poses a little bit of a problem in length. We always want to make sure we slide our covers over. Now, we've got those connected. Here you can see we've got our 5' piece of wire. We're actually going to run this back to our battery. We've got the boots in place here. These are going to go inside of our box, and then, we'll have our bare terminals connected to the battery itself. This time, we'll follow our color-code, and the red cable that will eventually connect to the battery goes on the red stud. This is going to be the stud closest to the black and the green wire. Our black one is going to go on the black side. Now, that will give us a good idea of where we'll be mounting our contactor. Let's get that marked, and we'll drill our holes out. Now, we can slide our bolts through. We can go to the underside where we'll put on a flat washer, a lock washer, and a nut. Now, we'll get it tightened up. Now, we're ready to connect the wires from our switch. These are going to be green to green and black to black. We'll want to tape them up individually so they can't accidentally make contact with one another. Now, we can take a couple of zip ties and tidy our wires up in here. We want to be as nice and compact as possible so we have use of as much of our storage area as possible. For our forward hole location, we're going to use some silicone and go around that and get that sealed up really well. The one on the back, we're going to leave open. Our customer has decided he wants to have his plugs in the box so moisture doesn't get in. We'll leave that back one open in case any moisture needs to get out. Now, what we're going to do is take the end of our 5' leads . Remember, we used the 5' here on the backside so we have plenty of room to get to our battery. I've looped it right up by our relay box that's up here to take our any of the slack. We'll go ahead and get our negative to negative and positive to positive. We have removed the under-seat storage area here to make it a little bit easier for you to see, a lot easier for you to see really. That's going to complete today's installation of the Bulldog Winch 1.6-hp UTV and Utility Winch, part number BDW15005, on our 2015 Polaris Ranger.

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Ask the Experts about this Bulldog Winch ATV Winch Mount

  • Winch Mount for 2018 Polaris Ranger 570 Full Size
    There is a winch mount for your 2018 Polaris Ranger 570 full size, the Bulldog Winch Custom-Fit Steel ATV Winch Mount # BDW15165, which fits 570 Full Size, 570 Mid-Size, and 570 Crew EPS Mid-Size. As the name of the mount states, this is a custom fit for your Polaris Ranger and will fit a wide variety of Bulldog ATV winches, including the Bulldog Winch Powersports Series - 2,000 lbs # BDW15001, the Bulldog Winch Powersports Series - 3,500 lbs # BDW15005 and the Bulldog Winch Powersports...
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  • UTV Mounting Kit for Superwinch Terra 4500 Winch
    According to my contact at Superwinch there is no stock mounting kit available to attach your Terra 4500 winch to your Polaris Ranger 800. It will be necessary to either have a custom mount fabricated or to drill new winch mounting holes on the mounting plate (in the 3-inch x 6.66-inch pattern used by the Terra 45). The Bulldog Winch Custom-Fit UTV Winch Mounting Kit, part # BDW15165, is intended for various years of Polaris Ranger 800 RZR UTVs. It is compatible with the Terra 3500 and...
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  • Would Bulldog Mount BDW15165 Fit a Harbor Freight Winch
    The Custom Mounts like the part # BDW15165 are designed to fit the industry standard mounting patterns of winches available from different manufacturers. I have asked similar questions about the fits of other brands of winches on the Superwinch mounts and they said that while the fit was never specifically tested they will say that they don't see any reason it wouldn't fit since nearly all winches are made with similar attachment bolt patterns.
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  • Recommended Winch Mount And Winch For 2012 Polaris Ranger 500 4x4
    I have a confirmed fit mount and compatible winch for your 2012 Polaris Ranger 500 EFI 4x4. For your mount, I recommend the 2012 Polaris Ranger Bulldog Winch Custom-Fit Steel Winch Mount, # BDW15165. I've attached a video of this install for you. For the winch that will fit this mount and is suited for your vehicle, I recommend the Bulldog Winch Powersports Series ATV Winch - Wire Rope - Roller Fairlead - 3,000 lbs # BDW15002. This winch has a sealed power unit and has a permanent...
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  • Custom Winch Mount for 2014 Polaris Ranger 570
    To mount a Superwinch brand winch to your 2014 Polaris Ranger, you will want to use the Bulldog ATV Winch Mount part # BDW15165. For a 3,000 pound winch you will want to use the LT3000 # SW1130220, Terra 3500 # SW1135220, or Terra 3500 SR # SW1135230. This mounting kit is also designed to work with several other Superwinch LT and Terra winches: the LT2000 # 1120210, the Terra 2500 # SW1125220, and the Terra 2500 SR # SW1125230.
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  • Superwinch Winch Mount Recommendation for 2018 Polaris 570 Sportsman
    For your 2018 Polaris 570 Sportsman the winch mount you want is the Bulldog part # BDW15165. This will work with your Terra winch as well.
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Info for this part was:

Edited by:
Tyler C
Written by:
Lisa S
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Matthew S
Video by:
Shane H
Video by:
Jacob H

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