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Heavy-duty hitch has 1-piece, wraparound jaw and easy-to-see lock indicator for maximum safety and security. Fully articulating head has large landing area and king pin target for quick hookup. Mounts to included underbed rail kit.
Features:
Specs:
The one-piece jaw on this fifth-wheel hitch provides absolute security with its wraparound design. Increased jaw-to-king-pin contact results in not only a stronger connection, but less noisy rattling and stiff chucking as well.
The jaw is also always ready to receive, so you don't need to use the handle to open it before backing up toward your trailer. As long as the bail pin is removed from the latching handle, the jaw will accept the king pin as it enters the hitch.
Finally, the jaw is self-latching, so it will automatically secure your trailer's king pin when it moves into the jaw.
In addition to the tight jaw tolerance, a close connection between the head and the pivot bushings further reduces rattle and movement. And because the pivot bushings are independent from the head, they can be tightened to ensure a strong connection over time.
This M5 hitch features a built-in king pin indicator to ensure proper hookup. This indicator is located on the back of the head along with a V-shaped notch that are both visible from the cab of your truck. The V-notch is lined up with the jaw at the front of the hitch, and can be used as a guiding point to line the king pin up with the jaw as you back up your truck. The jaw also has an internal plate that keeps the king pin from entering if it is too high to enter safely. As a result, the king pin indicator will only change from red to green if the king pin is fully engaged in the jaw.
This hitch's handle is designed for smooth motion and effortless operation. It requires only 2 fingers to use and won't bind up as you pull. In addition, the handle is long, so it's easy to access from outside of your truck bed. And the ergonomic grip makes it comfortable to hold and pull from different angles.
Alternate Instructions
California residents: click here
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Hi there, Ford owners. Today on your 2020 Ford F-250 Super Duty, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Reese's Under-Bed Rail Kit for both 5th wheels and goosenecks. And this is what our hitch rail system looks like when it's installed. You can see here, we've got our gooseneck hole in the center as well as a puck system that's very similar to a factory set up for a 5th wheel to drop in. This is gonna be probably the best setup here if you don't have a factory setup 'cause you can easily drop in your 5th wheels without having to install like an over the bed rail kit or something like that. They just drop right down into these pucks, making it quick and easy to get those in place.
And I also liked that it has a gooseneck hole here in the center, so we can put a ball down in there. We've got one here, so we can just show you. Just simply drop down and place. You can get balls here at etrailer. And it's just nice that you can just drop that right in.
It comes with all the covers. So if you don't wanna use a 5th wheel or gooseneck ball, if you just need a regular truck bed and you wanna have nice, smooth, flat surface, you can even maybe put like a bed mat down over top of this to further protect everything and keep your items from sliding around. But it looks great with the bed liner that's in here. So you don't even need anything like that. You can see here that the pucks actually sit just slightly below the level of the raised sections on the bed.
So if you we're put things in here, your rubber covers and the perimeter of them are fairly well protected from the top, from things sliding around on them as well. This system here supports 7,000 pounds of pin weight, which is the force going down either your gooseneck ball or your 5th wheel hitch. And it also features a 27,000 pound gross towing capacity. And that's for your 5th wheel hitch and it goes up to 27,500 for your gooseneck ball. Now that can go even higher if you purchase the additional brackets that can be installed inside the frame to beef those up, and that'll bring your 5th wheel rating up to 32,000 for it's maximum pull, as well as your gooseneck increase up to 35,000.
And after you installed your 5th wheel or gooseneck in there and you go to hook up your trailer, you're gonna need a way to power up all the lights and brakes and stuff that may be on it. And oftentimes your connector is gonna be on the back on your bumper and your wiring's not gonna be long enough. So I highly recommend this kit here from Bargman to relocate a connector inside your bed, so you can get that plugged in. This one plugs in line, so your factory one on the back on the bumper still works. Now that we've covered some of the features of our hitch, shy don't you follow along with us and we'll show you how to get it installed. Upfront, I do just want to let you know, the bed has to come off and there's a special socket required to remove the bed bolts here. And these bed bolts are designed to be one time use. So you should replace those bolts as well. You can get those at your local dealer. And I've also seen the sockets at local hardware stores as well. We'll begin our installation by removing the truck bed. Truck bed is gonna have several fasteners, we're gonna need to take out. We're gonna start with the tailgate here to get this out of the way. You may or may not have electrical connectors to your tailgate. It just depends on the options that you have. This truck's got a backup camera. Some of them have locks. So if you do have any devices in here, you may have electrical connectors. We do, so we're gonna have to get down below and disconnect those. So we're underneath on the driver's side. This is the wiring that goes up and goes into the tailgate. So we need to make sure we get that disconnected. So we're just gonna press in on our release tab here and then separate the two pieces. It's not uncommon for these to be really stiff because back here in the back, they get covered in a lot of dirt and debris and out here in Missouri, there's a lot of gravel roads. So you can see we've got a lot of dirt on here just makes them really hard to disconnect. And then we're gonna head over to the other side. Now, these ones aren't for the tailgate, but they still have to get disconnected to get the bed off. So you'll find two connectors that are just like the ones over there. We're gonna disconnect those as well. And we also want to pop these. If they're in the frame rail and then have the trim panel tool to pull them out. Looks like we're gonna have to get a trim panel tool for this, but just check and see if you've got any pins holding them into the frame of the vehicle. We want them to just make sure that they're separated. So that way, when we go to pull the bed off, we don't have any clip here holding us. Now, if you need a trim panel tool, just like this here, you can get one here at etrailer. This will get behind the fastener to allow you to pry it out of there 'cause some of these can be really stiff. This is a pretty big push pin. All right, so now we've got that out there. We can go back and head up top to get the tailgate off. Now your tailgate can be pretty heavy, so I do recommend having an extra set of hands. You'll lift up on it a little bit. You'll then have to take the tab here and you'll lift it. You can use your screwdriver if you need to, and then just slide this away. And then on the passenger side to see there's a match here. You'll wanna turn it until it's lines up with the nuts there. And then we're just gonna pull this straight out like that. We'll then go towards the passenger side here just a little bit to get it released from the driver's side. Now after we get it released from the passenger side, we'll pull it straight towards the passenger side to get it released. We'll double check our electrical connectors. They should just pull right out of that hole there. There we go. And then we're gonna set our tailgate off to the side where it won't get damaged. We're now back underneath again, we're gonna be removing our bumper next. To remove this, we'll have a couple of electrical connectors that you may or may not have depending on options. So this is our 7-way connector here. So if you've got that, you wanna make sure you got that disconnected. Just press that on the release tab and you can pull that off. And then we also have another connector located right here. You can see coming off the bumper and it runs right here towards our spare tire. We're gonna disconnect this one as well. So now we're gonna remove the bolts that are holding our bumper onto the bracket. We've got two of them here. We're gonna take the nuts off. We're gonna use a 21 millimeter socket to do so. We'll then head over to the other side, just outside the frame over there, you'll find same two studs. We'll remove the nuts over there as well. And then here at the back, just to the outside of your receiver, you're gonna have a bolt on each side. We're gonna take our 13 millimeter socket to remove those. And now again, with an extra set of hands, we're gonna take our bumper, remove it and then set it off where it won't get damaged. Next we'll need to separate the fuel filler neck from the bed. So we're just gonna open up on the door. Go ahead and take the cap off. This is just a cover here that pulls off. So we're just kinda pulling that off to get that out of the way. You got a couple of tabs there. That's gonna reveal the fasteners below. So now we're gonna remove each of those fasteners. These little ones here look like 5-1/2 millimeter. And these ones here look like an eight millimeter. And then these, we can just take out and just push it just to the inside there. Next we're gonna remove our bed and you can see here we've got six bolts running up. If you have a long bed, you will likely have another bolt there. These require a special socket. It's an EP24 Torx Plus Socket. So you wanna make sure you've got this on order and on hand before you start this installation. And they come out really easily there. And I started with the breaker bar 'cause I was expecting it to be a little tighter, but you can see here with this little guy. We'll even move on to a fresh bolt and show you that it's just as easy on that fresh one. Now I will say what these EP24, if you've been throwing stuff in your truck bed, it's not uncommon for a little burr to get on there and prevent the socket from wanting to go on. So we're gonna try to get it to line up here. There we go, we got it to line up. Then we're gonna take our hammer to it to knock it down on there. And see this one here, it took a little effort there at the beginning, but really not that difficult. This is a pretty short throw ratchet. So we're just gonna repeat this until we get them all removed. At this point, we're ready to lift our truck bed off. We're gonna start with the man on each corner, lift it up. So you are gonna need about three sets of hands. Then each of you to get underneath, just poke your head under there and look to make sure there's no wires or anything you missed. If everything looks clear, we're just gonna walk it back. We'll then rest the front of the truck bed on the frame of the truck here at the very back, and then we'll rest the back of the truck bed. We're using shop carts here in the shop, but at home or in the shop before, I've had plenty of success using trash cans as well. Now with our bed out of the way, we can go to put our rails into place. On our driver's side here, you're gonna have your bracketry here on the inside for your brake lines. You may or may not have a rail welded on the inside here. If you do, you can use the rail that's welded on the inside. If not, like we are here, you'll need to purchase additional rails. You can get these here at each trailer and we're gonna be installing this one on the inside. So that's just a may or may not. It's a manufacturer variant depending on whether or not you have those rails welded on the inside. It'll look very similar to this, but welded to the inside of the frame. Now to check to see if you have the rails welded on, you don't even take the bed off to do that. You can do this at home real quick by just rolling underneath and just taking a look up. It's probably even easier to see on the passenger side if you're just rolling underneath. Now, if you do have rails welded in place, you don't need to purchase the extra set of rails. You can install your kit exactly how it is and that'll give you rails rated at 27K. If you wanted to up the rating though, into the 30 thousands, it does vary slightly between your gooseneck and your 5th wheel, but they're both in 30 thousands. You can get a different set of rails that you can install on the outside of your existing welded on rails to beef those up and increase your weight ratings. That's a different part number than the rails you'll need for the inside of the frame. If you don't have any, but you can get both of those here at etrailer. So that way, if you need the rail, if you don't have it weld in, then you can get it to make it work. If you have the rail and you wanna upgrade it to a higher weight capacity, we've got that different set of rails that you can put on there as well. Now you do wanna keep in mind those max capacity brackets that increase the rate rating are only gonna work if you have welded on rails. If you're like we are here where we're adding this rail and bolting it on the inside, it will not work with that kit. So we're gonna go ahead and move on and get these installed now. So these are the extra rails since we don't have the welded on ones. These simply just drop into place right there. You may have to hold it. What I usually do is put the outside one on first, but I was just showing you that it does go around our bracketry there. So we don't have to remove it. We'll go out and get that out of the way. And I'll show you how I normally put these on. We're gonna take our hardware here. This is the long bolt that comes in your kit. We're gonna take that conical tooth washer off that goes on the inside. We're gonna have our large washers here on the outside. So we're gonna go ahead and just get two of these here and we'll grab the outside bracket. You can tell this is the outside. First off, it's got a label on there for driver's side, but we also know this is the outside bracket because of its shape. It will line up with our holes in our frame. So we're just gonna take it just like this. We'll then take our bolts. We're gonna slide it through the bracket and through the hole in the frame. On the other side, we're also going to slide it through the bracket and the hole in the frame and then long enough there that it should, for the most part, support the bracket. We can then take our outside bracket and we're just gonna drop it down into place, slide it on top of those bolts. And if you had the welded on brackets, your bolts would just push right on through, and then you can secure it with the hardware. We're then gonna take the conical tooth washer, push it on. We make sure that the teeth are facing towards our frame. And then we're gonna put a nut on there. We want these to be loose for now. So that's good enough. And then we're gonna do the same thing with our other bolts here, even this one loose as well. And then once we get this side installed, we're gonna install the frame brackets over on the other side, the same way. Now with an extra set of hands, we're gonna set our puck system into place. Just kinda sits on the rails. The hole here, you'll notice that it's got the slotted holes on each side. And then one of the sides has an extra little kinda ear that comes off of the hole. That's our locator hole. We'll have one of those on each side, that's gonna face towards the rear of the truck and lineup with this hole right here on our inner bracket. So we can just slide that over. You'll receive two smaller bolts that come in your kit. They're just locator pin bolts. We're just gonna drop that in there to make sure that it stays in location. We're now gonna take the shorter standard bolts that come in your kit, chrome ones here. We're gonna put flat washers on those as well. These are gonna connect your puck system with your inner rail. So this is simply just gonna drop down through those. Underneath, we're gonna place a conical tooth washer on it. And this is the same conical tooth washer as the ones we have used to get the side rails onto the frame. And then we're gonna use the same type of nuts to secure that as well. Next, we're gonna take the black bolts that come in our kit. They're gonna be a metric bolt. We're gonna put a flat washer on those. It is gonna be a slightly smaller flat washer than the other ones we've been using. That's gonna drop down through the outer two holes in the outer bracket to get those secured. This is gonna get a different conical tooth washer. It's gonna be a different color, a little bit smaller, and then we're gonna place the nut on the bottom as well. And it's also just slightly smaller than the previous ones we've been using. We can now go back and tighten down our hardware. For your standard bolts, you're gonna need a 15/16 socket and wrench. And the metric ones on the outside, you need a 22 millimeter socket and wrench. We're gonna tighten them down in a specific order. We're gonna start with the inner frame bolts, then the outer frame bolts, and then the cross bolts that squeezes our two frame brackets together. Now we're gonna go back and torque our hardware to the specifications outlined in your instructions. It is a pretty high torque specs. So it's not a bad idea to have yourself an extra set of hands because trying to torque it this high and hold the wrench by yourself can be pretty difficult. Now our rail puck system is gonna sit underneath the bed here, but we took the bed off so we can get it in place. We also have to drill out holes in our bed to allow the pucks to pop through as well as the gooseneck hole in the center. Normally your truck bed is gonna have a dimple actually at the location where you're supposed to drill out for those, but our customer here has a spray in bed liner. So he's covered up all those holes. So we're gonna head underneath where we can see the dimples down below. So here we are underneath, we're in that flat spot between the raised portions of the bed. And this is where you'll find your dimple at right here. And there's gonna be four of these and locations where the pucks are gonna go through. And normally, you'll just do this from up top and you just drill straight down through that dimple and things are gonna be really easy. The spray-in bed liner does complicate things 'cause we cannot see that dimple up top. So we don't know the appropriate spot. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna take an extremely small drill bit. This is the smallest one that I can find. And we're gonna go just to the rear of this dimple. We're gonna make a mark here, that drills through. And then when we know up top, we can make our cut just slightly in front of this hole. So now we're just gonna do this the same for all of them. You can even see here that the center has its dimple there as well. And we're gonna put all of ours just slightly behind the dimple. So that way, when we go to drill mount up top, we know we're gonna be drilling just right in front of where we made our little hole. So now will drill these out. For the pucks that pass through, we're gonna be using a three-inch hole saw. And again, you're either gonna use your dimples, or if you follow along with us, if you get that spray-in bed liner, you'll do the marks that you had made previously. We'll just line it up and then drill it on up. And now we're just gonna repeat that at the remaining three spots for our pucks, and you can take a file and clean that up as well if you like. And then for the center hole here, we're gonna be using a 4-1/4 inch diameter hole saw. Now, when you're cutting these out with your hole saw, I'm not pushing down very hard. I'm focusing more on keeping it upright and straight and smooth in the circle rather than pushing hard. So take your time to get all these cleaned out. We're gonna vacuum out all this mess. And then we're also gonna hit this with some clear coat to protect against any corrosion. And after that, we'll be ready to set our bed back into place. So now that we've got everything ready with the bed to go back on, we're gonna grab those alignment bolts that we've had put in there. And just pull those out of there. They should just pull right out. And then we're gonna grab our friends again to help us set this in place. Now we're just gonna walk it back up. When you get to the front, pay attention to your filler neck. You are gonna have to clear that around. So don't crush those components. After you got your bed set into place, you can grab those fuel components we we're talking about, and we can just push those back in. I would wait to put the fasteners back in until you got your bed fully tightened down. This will just ensure that these aren't, you're not crushing these or anything if you need to move the bed before you tighten down all your bolts. And now at this point, we're just gonna re-install our bed in reverse order of how we took it off. When you go to tighten the bed down, you should replace the bolts. These are designed to be one-time use bolts. So we're gonna be reinstalling new bolts in here to get this installed. Of course, with the new bolts, they are the same. They're gonna be a little bit difficult, little tight. So there we go, we get it to line up. We may need to tap that on there. These EP24s are just such a tight snug. You get really great surface area to be able to tighten stuff down with them, but it does make the socket a little bit difficult to put on. You can get replacement bed bolts from your local dealer. Included in your instructions, for your hitch you will find torque specifications for your bed bolts as well as some of the other hardware, such as your filler neck bolts. So now we've got our bed fully secured. I went ahead and peel off the stickers that we're on top. We can go ahead and put the covers over place. These just simply snap around. There's a little lip here. You see this little groove that runs around it. The edge here on the inside is gonna fit inside that groove. So we're just gonna take it on top and you have to just work it around. So we're gonna get one side of the lip started and then just work it around until it all snaps into place there. You'll also receive caps for the center of your pads when you don't have anything in there. So if you don't have a 5th wheel, you'll have a larger ring for your gooseneck hole in the center as well as a cover for that one as well. So now we've got everything tightened down, torqued, all of our components are installed, at this point, we're ready to drop in our 5th wheel or gooseneck ball and hook up to a trailer. And that completes our installation of Reese's Under-Bed Rail Kit for 5th wheels and goosenecks on our 2020 Ford F-250 Super Duty..
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