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Demco 12 Volt Outlet Kit - 20 Amps

Demco 12 Volt Outlet Kit - 20 Amps

Item # DM83FR
Our Price: $56.25
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This kit is designed to bring an additional 12 volt power source protected by a 20 amp fuse. This will help protect your towed vehicle's electrical system. 1-800-940-8924 to order Demco 12v power accessories part number DM83FR or order online at Free expert support on all Demco products. Great prices and Fastest Shipping for Demco 12 Volt Outlet Kit - 20 Amps. 12V Power Accessories reviews from real customers.
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Demco 12V Power Accessories - DM83FR

  • Power Socket
  • 1 DC Outlet
  • Demco

This kit is designed to bring an additional 12 volt power source protected by a 20 amp fuse. This will help protect your towed vehicle's electrical system.

To help protect the towed electrical system, this kit is designed to bring an additional 12V power source protected by a 20 amp fuse.

6342 Demco 12 Volt Outlet Kit - 20 Amps

Video of Demco 12 Volt Outlet Kit - 20 Amps

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Demco 12 Volt Outlet Kit Installation - 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Hi there, Jeep owners. Today on your 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Demco's 12 volt outlet kit. And this is what our Demco auxiliary outlet looks like when it's installed. This is gonna provide us with 12 volt outlets so we can power up various accessories and you have the option to wire this however you want. So you could wire it directly to your battery to give you an outlet that's powered all the time or you could wire it to an ignition source that would allow it to only be powered up when the keys on. You have as much options in the world as you want based on how you wanna wire it.

This is most commonly used though for flat tow setups to provide all the time power connection for your supplemental braking system. Now we've been installing some of these for quite some time now, and oftentimes, we install a Roadmaster one, but I'll be honest, I kinda like the Demco one here. It seems like it's a higher quality component. The bracket that comes with it, it just feels more stable than the Roadmaster one. The connector for your auxiliary outlet slides right into the bracket and snaps in very nice, holding it more firmly than on the Roadmaster.

There is a dust boot here on the end of the connector. You can see it open there with our accessory plugged in that helps keep out dirt, debris and moisture and you don't get any of that with the Roadmaster as well. I also like the wiring that comes included with this. It's a much thicker gauge wiring. It is a little bit more work 'cause you have to assemble a couple of pieces.

But me personally, I'd rather do just a little bit more work and get a much higher quality product. We're also gonna take a look here out underneath the hood because one of the things that Roadmaster does on there that I really disliked, Demco has resolved. And this is what I wanted show you under the hood is the fuse harness that comes with the Demco. With the Roadmaster, you get the old style glass tube fuses which are becoming more and more difficult to find. You probably don't have any laying around 'cause your vehicle doesn't probably use any of them.

So I like that Demco here has decided to use a more traditional ATX type fuse, much more traditional size. You probably got some of these laying around and these are much easier to locate and get the right size that you'll need at your local automotive store if you ever happen to overload the circuit or cause an accidental short by dropping something down in it or something like that. We're gonna begin our installation here on the driver's side. We're on the floor here. Our pedals are to our left and this is the kick panel here. I mean, pedals are on the right and our kick panels here on the left. We're gonna be mounting it roughly this location. I think I might put it down to help keep it out of the way. The purpose we're installing this is for our customer's supplemental braking system. We just got it set up for a Blue Ox Patriot. This is the breakaway cable that'll plug into it but the Patriot needs an outlet that is powered all the time to be able to operate it. And when in flat tow mode, we got our ignition key off in the outlet that's in our Jeep here powers down. So it's not gonna operate our system. So we're gonna add this and wire it directly to the battery so that it'll be powered all the time so we can use our system the way we need to. So we're gonna mount the bracket first and then we'll route the wiring to it. Our Blue Ox Patriots just sits here on the floor. So we're gonna be installing it pretty low down here in this location to hide it 'cause that's all our customers using it for. You can use these switches for anything you want that you're wanting to power. There are a lot of different accessories that you might wanna use it for, but braking system's one of the most common because of the requirement to have power when the key is off. So we're gonna mount up the bracket first. You get a couple of self-tapping screws. We're gonna use a 10 millimeter socket to run those in. And it's gonna be a little tight in here once I get in there, just 'cause your Jeep doesn't have the most room in here to work with. But what we're all we're gonna do is roughly we're gonna hold this up where we want it. And then we're gonna run the screws in the holes here on the bracket. So two screws and I'm pretty sure we're gonna mount it just like that. So that way it hangs down. So now we can install our switch. I did angle it just a little bit. So that way it's easier for the customer to have a natural angle. So be able to plug it in. And we went with mostly horizontal to minimize the area here where he can rest his feet. You could tip it down here this way a little bit to make it face you, but that'll take up a little bit more foot area. So I think it'll probably work out better for our customer like this. We can now slide our switch in. You can slide it in either way. There's a little groove here on the side and there's a notch on each side. So you got two options on how you can insert it. I think we're gonna put ours, probably, I think we're actually gonna put it with the opening going away from the bracket just 'cause of the clearance of the wall there. I don't want to interfere with being able to plug in our braking system. And then that'll open up. It's got a nice cover on it there to keep out dirt and debris. And we've got our prongs here on the back for powering it up. So we're now outside the vehicle. We've got the hood open. We're on the driver's side. This is our brake booster right here. If we go to the outside of the brake booster and look down there is a grommet located right down there. It's a plastic grommet and it twists to pop it out of there. Now this is only gonna be present on your automatic vehicles. If you have a manual, that's where your clutch master cylinders gonna be. It's located right there, the reservoir and stuff. So you won't have this grounded on those manuals. You have to find another grommet location to route it in. We're gonna just poke through this. You can see it's already got some silicone on it when the supplemental braking system was installed. The breakaway switch wire had to be routed through there. So there's already a hole there for us to pass it through. But once you pop that cap out, you can just drill a hole in it with a drill bit to be able to pass it through. It was already sealed back up again with silicone. So we're just gonna take a screwdriver just to poke through. The silicone might have to scrape a little bit of it off of there in order to pass our wire through. All right. So we we're able to get the screwdriver to poke through there. We will reseal this back up after adding this wire to it. But now that we can get something to pass through, we'll just poke our wire in and then feed that onto the inside. And we don't need a whole lot actually 'cause we're pretty close to where we mounted our connector. So I'm gonna take the rest of this now. We're gonna route it across this top threshold over towards the battery there. All right. So we got the wire routed across. We are gonna be adding some cable ties into this and I usually tuck it into some of the like, connected some of this factory wiring. But before we hook it up to our battery here, we're gonna go back inside and hook up the other end because we don't wanna make live wires and just have them hanging out inside. So we'll hook those up first. All right. So this is the wire where we head, routed inside. If you follow it back up, you'll see where it pushes through the grommet there. I pulled through more than we're gonna need here. We can always pull it back through to get rid of some of this excess, but I like having the excess down here when working because trying to work under the dash there is pretty difficult. So first thing we're gonna need to do is strip some of this sheathing off of there. There's a couple of ways you could do it. You could use a razor knife. You could use your cutters that you have for cutting the wire. I prefer the razor knife. The cutters will work, but it's a little sloppier. We can take our razor knife here and just right in between the two wires, just run your blade down the sheathing and I'll actually usually set it on the floor for stability. And we're just gonna peel that off of there. We just need enough back to be able to work with our wires. So that's plenty. We'll trim off our excess here. And now we got two wires. So we get to choose how we wanna wire these up. We're gonna use black for power and we're gonna use white for ground. So just keep that in mind when you head back outside to your battery. We need to make sure we hook that to the appropriate post on the battery. We're gonna strip each one of these back and we're gonna place a spade terminal on it. These spade terminals view come in your kit here. So just slide the spade terminal into place and crimp it down. And we're gonna do the same thing with the other wire there. All right, so now we're gonna connect this to our switch. So your switch here has two prongs on it. You'll have one prong that's at a bit of an angle in connects to the center pin and then you'll have another one that comes off the side. The one that comes off the side is for the outer shell that's inside of the plastic. That's our ground. And then our our positive is going to be the little post on the end. So that means we're gonna plug the black wire into the angled one for the center post. And we're gonna plug the white one in the side post. So we're gonna plug the white one in first since that one's gonna be more difficult to get to once I plug in the other wire and then plug in the other one. And when you're plugging these in, you'll probably wanna make sure you're supporting the switch. I'm keeping my pinky underneath as I'm pushing down. This is just into the side plastic here. So you could potentially damage the plastic if you're just pushing super hard on it. So make sure you give it a little bit of support when you're plugging those in. So now our excess here, we can actually just push this back through the grommet or you could pull it from the other side, whichever way works best for you. We're right here so we might as well just push it through real quick and then we can also assess and go. I like to leave a little bit of excess on both sides. So we'll leave just a little bit here. That's always nice for future additional accessories and other things that you might need to utilize these wires for. So that looks pretty good. We'll head back outside and finish connecting it up out there. So we're now back over here by our battery. We've got the rest of the pieces laid out that come in the kit, except for this guy. This is what we're gonna use, but this is what comes in the kit. I recommend getting rid of this guy 'cause this is gonna be outside the hood here where moisture can get down inside of it. So I highly recommend upgrading to heat shrink butt connectors like this to protect your wiring from the elements. Another thing that you might wanna consider adding to this kit is cable ties 'cause I did use a couple, like one there and there's another one over there and there's one right here to keep my wire in from being able to fall down, and you don't get cable ties in this kit either. Now, if you're doing a flat tow set up with like a braking system, you're probably gonna need some cable ties with those, but I still recommend definitely getting the butt connectors 'cause we're gonna want those for your braking system and other stuff too. Okay. So now that we've got routed over to here, we're gonna hook it up to our battery here. We're gonna start with our fuse harness. That's gonna hook to the positive side. First, take the harness. We're gonna cut the loop here and then we're gonna strip back each end of our loop. On one side of our loop, we're gonna get a ring terminal so we can attach it to the battery. On the other side, we're gonna use a butt connector and we're gonna use that heat shrink one that we're adding to the kit. I like to twist the ends, helps keep the strands together. So that way they slide into the butt connectors and stuff easier. So we're sliding the butt connector into one side, crimping it down. Swap over to the other side, grab one of our ring terminals, slide it into the ring terminal and crimp it down. All right. So we got our fuse harness prepared. So we'll set that off to the side for just a second. If you notice the fuse is sitting out of it, we don't wanna insert our fuse till the very end. So we don't cause any accidental shorts. So our wiring is routed up here. We need to have enough to be able to connect to both the positive and the negative. So since the negative is the further away, we're gonna be cutting our wiring at that point so we can make it over to that wire. So snip the excess off that you don't need. And after you've trimmed it, we're gonna take our end here and strip some of the sheathing back. We actually don't need as much as you think 'cause we got our fuse harness that we're gonna be adding to the positive wire. So we just need to strip enough of this off to be able to access some. And that will be plenty for what we need to do. So we'll cut the ends off here of the sheathing. So we talked about before, our white wire's gonna be our ground and our black wire's gonna be our positive. We already made that decision. So the white wire here, gonna strip it back. Grab your other ring terminal. And it's always good to double check to see if these are gonna fit. They give you plenty large ring terminals, but some other items you get in a flat tow set up. Sometimes you gotta swap out some ring terminals 'cause they don't fit over your battery post, but looks like they give you a nice ample size in this kit. We'll crimp this one on and that looks pretty good. That'll allow us to get over to our negative very nicely there. And then our positive here, we will connect that to our fuse harness and run it over to there. So we're gonna go ahead and strip back the black wire, slide it into our heat shrink butt connector there. Go ahead and crimp that down. All right, we've got our harness pretty much made here. We're gonna need a couple additional tools to complete this. We're gonna grab our heat gun first so we can shrink down our butt connector. And then we need to grab the appropriate size sockets here to connect to our battery posts. And it's looking to me like a 13 millimeter is probably the size we're gonna grab. Now we got our heat gun here. And you can see this is why we wanted to swap this to this style of butt connector 'cause it automatically seals right around our components here for us. There's actually like a small, it's almost like a gel-like liquid in there that oozes out to help seal it up as well. Now we'll make our connections to our battery and it was a 13 millimeter. So we got our 13 millimeter on there. We're gonna remove the nut, slide on the ring terminal and reinstall the nut. We're gonna then repeat that over here for our positive wire and do this one right over here. And we're just removing the nut, sliding on our ring terminal and then reinstalling the nut. All right. And then our cover should pop back down on there for us. We can use some more cable ties here to clean up our wiring and make sure it stays how we want it routed. We're just gonna have it mimic the factory wire in there. I'll probably put one more on here connecting those together like that. And then we can trim up our cable ties, insert our fuse and then plug in our accessory and verify that it works. The 20 amp fuse that comes in your kit. That's what our outlet's rated for. So we'll be good. We've actually got some huge wiring going to it. The wiring that's run into that could probably handle more, but the actual auxiliary outlet end probably stops out of 20. So let's head inside and check it out. All right. I got our Blue Ox Patriot in here and set it in place, hooked it up to the pedal. We're now gonna go ahead and plug in our connector. Got that plugged in there We'll now just finish plug in our Patriot just our breakaway switch and we can do the setup process. All right. So we got it all plugged in. We're gonna go ahead and see if it powers up. It powered right up. That tells us right away that our outlets probably working properly here. Let's see if it gets all the way through its setup process and we know we're sending plenty of power through our outlet to our unit. All right. Process is complete. Looks like we are all ready to roll. So our installation is successful. And again, this will power anything that would run off your just normal factory accessory outlets. It's gonna do the same thing with this unit. You got a maximum of 20 amps available to you. So you can run quite a bit of accessories off of that. It's a great option to add too if you we're wanting to maybe like run a small auxiliary powered inverter or something like that. So you could plug in like a laptop and charge it or something like that. 20 amps is quite a bit of power. And that completes our installation of Demco's 12 volt outlet kit on our 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited..

Customer Reviews

Demco 12 Volt Outlet Kit - 20 Amps - DM83FR

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (3 Customer Reviews)

This kit is designed to bring an additional 12 volt power source protected by a 20 amp fuse. This will help protect your towed vehicle's electrical system.


Good product , well made and just what I needed to hook my inverter in the t.t. to.




See what our Experts say about this Demco 12V Power Accessories

  • Is It Possible To Power a Cooler Off a 4-Way Trailer Connector?
    The only adapter we will have with a 12-volt connector for your cooler is the Hopkins Multi-Tow Trailer Connector Adapter # HM47675 that connects to a 7-way connector. There is not a connector that connects to a 4-way since the 4-way is powered by the tail lights on your vehicle. This wiring is not capable of carrying the power for your cooler and the only time the wiring has power is when lights are being used. You can run a dedicated 12 Volt Outlet Kit # DM83FR to the rear of your vehicle...
    view full answer...

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Info for this part was:

Employee Lindsey S
Edited by:
Lindsey S
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Kristina F
Written by:
Kristina F

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