As you can see here, we are starting off with a weight distribution unit, part # 66022. We need to disassemble part of it and install the sway control system. The first step is to disassemble the weight distribution unit, this entails taking the spring bars off and removing the chains and install the chains on the sway control brackets. Just as a helpful hint, we raised the trailer up to take some tension off the springs to make it easier to take off. We'll take off these U-Bolts and install them on these plates here. What you want to end up with is two to three threads showing through and that will be plenty. With the sway control arms, you'll have to loosen these two nuts so you can center this approximately right here.
What you want to aim for is the same amount of threads showing on each side. Now we need to mark off a center line from the center of the hitch ball about 18 inches back. That will take us right here, well make a mark and that will give us a good estimate to go by. This pivot point should be as close to the pivot point as possible. You can move it left to right depending on frame interference, in fact we have this brace which will be in the way down here so well have to move back a bit anyway. The main thing is to have this as flat as possible to the frame and as close to the 18 inch mark as possible. Once you have that go ahead and mark out the holes here and here so you can drill them out. As we started off you saw we had the long part of the bracket facing the coupler. That is the optimum way of having it, however what it does is throw the alignment of the chain pretty far off in the wrong direction so optionally you can flip this around by using the other side. It still keeps to the center of the 18 inch mark. So depending on frame conditions you can do that also. Once you have your holes drilled out, you can use one of your bolts and they are self threading, so work them in and out a few times to custom threads and you are good to go. Were going to run these in and out a few more times to make sure we have good custom threads. At This point we can install our brackets. Now we did not run them down all the way, well do the final torque with our hands. Now were going to install our set screw. Once it stops, go for another quarter of a turn. Now tighten the jam nut.
Once your bracket is installed sometimes these come a little bit loose from the factory, well tighten these down right now. They should be snug, not tight. While your here, lets loosen these nuts up because well need those loose when we make our final adjustment for the spring bars. Now well repeat for the other side. At this point were going to install our spring bars and our chain assemblies. This bracket takes up some space, instead of the three links you started out with before you might want to go down an extra link. Just make sure you at least have 5 links showing. Also you can see here where the sway control hits the dent-in, its actually supposed to be a half inch forward here. Well have to adjust our bracket up here form our regular install to ensure that this bracket is a half inch forward of this point here. As you can see we reset everything we scooted the bracket farther forward and made sure the assembly is about a half inch forward of this dent-in here. This is how it supposed to look when its done. The next step is to make final adjustments which requires driving it around and doing a couple of S turns to make everything is working freely like its supposed to. That is why we have these two nuts spread apart so it can travel freely first. Then well find our proper center line and it will get tightened down. After we have done our test drive, the dent-ins have settled in there final position. Now we can tighten down those nuts. Basically the one on the inside we run down until it stops and the second one on the outside we tighten down so we can mash the lock washer flat.
That pretty much completes the install the only other notes you want to think about is if you make a drastic change in the amount of links you use you will have to reset it again. All you have to do is loosen the nuts and do a test drive bring it back flat and reset it and you are good to go. The way this unit works is applies constant tension to the sway control arms through the spring bars. What that does is basically makes a semi rigid attachment and applies pressure constantly towards the trailer. With that constant pressure the trailer does not want to sway to begin with. The two bars work evenly to push the trailer back essentially to keep it straight behind you. Also whats nice about it is when you go on turns you will see the bars come up a little bit out of the dent-in. That is what its supposed to do and it applies a little more tension than what happened originally. What that does is make kind of a twisting motion inside your hitch, which in effect makes the trailer lean into the curve with your truck. There you have it for the install of part # 26002 the dual cam high performance sway control from towing products.
Today we are going to cover a few questions about weight distribution in general that we get a lot. First we will start off with the hitch itself. A common question is can any hitch be used with the weight distribution assembly. Virtually any two inch receiver hitch as the one we have here, can accommodate weight distribution. However there are a few odd ones out there that do not, mainly they are on small SUVs and maybe a couple of minivans, for the most part almost any two inch receiver hitch can accommodate weight distribution. The only real bulletproof way to find out is to look at the sticker on the hitch itself and you will see some numbers on there. The numbers you want to look for here are right here. This one says weight carrying and that is for the hitch itself which means that is the maximum weight the hitch can carry without any assistance.
Today were going to show you how to measure for a weight distribution shank. It looks kind of confusing with the different lengths and amount of holes on it and different measurements. Were going to keep it basic and simple so you can pick out the right one the first time and well show the steps that are needed to do that. First thing we do is get two measurements, we need to measure from the bottom of the coupler down to the ground. Also we need to measure from the top of the hitch opening down to the ground. The difference between the two measurements will tell us what size shank to get. Well make that 13 1/2 inches and looks like we have a measurement of 21 inches. With some simple math, the difference will be 7 1/2 inches, so we need to find a that is close to that. The closest one we have is part # 3344. That part will have a eight inch total so that will be as close as we can get. Well check that out to make sure it works. With our measurements in hand, lets go ahead and test it. As you can see the ball height is the same as the coupler so it looks like a perfect match.