Winch Plate Installation - 2014 Polaris Ranger

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How to Install a Winch Plate on a 2014 Polaris Ranger

Speaker: Today on this 2014 Polaris Ranger Crew we're going to install a winch blade part no. 100824. To start our install we'll begin by removing the grill. There'll be one bolt on each side. Then theres three bolts from the bottom we have to remove as well.Next we need to remove the bumper itself. There are two bolts on each side that go directly to the frame. We'll go ahead and remove those two bolts on each side and then we'll go ahead and remove the bumper and put it aside for now. At this point you want to get the winch ready to work with the winch plate.

Place the winch mouth assembly on to location on the backside of the bumper. Then we'll line up the three holes on each side. In this case we're going to leave the winch off so you can see how the winch plate mounts up to the vehicle. Then we'll install a three inch hardware which will be the bolt that goes through the bumper and the winch plate mount and then a flat washer and a nut. Now we're going to leave these all loose for now. We can go ahead and reinstall the bumper.

We'll put it back in place and reinstall using the existing hardware. Now we need to install the new grill that comes with the kit. This uses a carriage bolt that goes from the inside towards the outside. At this point you would also be running your cable through your winch through and also putting the fairlead as well but for clarity we're going to leave these items off. It will be a carriage bolt to the mount and then through the fairhead and then a nut. At this point we'll go ahead and do a partial disassembly so we can install our winch. We'll go ahead and take the bumper back off and we'll take a winch plate loose.

Then we'll install our winch onto a winch plate. In this case we'll be using a winch part no. SW1145220 from Super Winch. We'll go ahead and install it using the hardware that comes with the winch. This will be a flat washer, a lock washer, and a bolt. The nuts have already been pre-installed from the manufacturer on the inside edge of the winch.

We'll just line up the holes and install the hardware. Once you have all the hardware installed we'll go ahead and tighten it down. Let's go ahead and install our wiring onto the winch according to instructions. They're labeled number 1 and 2. Number 1 is the yellow wire and number 2 is the blue wire. We'll take the nuts off and then one washer and then put a wire in place. Then we'll put the flat washer back in and then put the nut back into place. Then we'll tighten down lids and then we'll go ahead and push the rubber cover back over the hardware. At this point we go ahead and take our bumper with the winch loosely installed and we'll go ahead and reinstall it. You're going to need an extra set of hands to help hold with the bumper while we install the hardware. With our bumper reinstalled with all the hardware still loose we'll go ahead and install the grill and the fairhead. We'll go ahead and hold the winch plate into place and then we'll go ahead and install our carriage bolts from the winch mount. They all point towards the outside and then we'll stack the grill on top of that. Then the winch fairhead will go on top of the grill. In this case we're going to remove the bolt and the lower roller to help get our cable through. Go ahead and remove the lower roller to have access to tighten down the hardware. Then we'll loosely reinstall the hardware for the roller once we have it in place. Then we'll attach it to the bolts and then put lock in on top of it. With all the hardware loosely installed we can go ahead and start tightening down everything. Then we'll tighten down the roller as one of the last things we do. This will be a tight fit with the hardware so you'll need some patience with this. Once every thing's tighten down we can go ahead and move on to the wiring of the winch. At this point we'll go ahead and start running our wires. To get access we also remove the bottom panels as well. This bottom panel will be reinstalled at the end when we're done running our wires.Starting from our winch we'll go ahead and take our blue and yellow wires and run it from the front to behind the backseat. Now what we do is we want to stay away from anything moving like an extension components or a drive train. We're running underneath the differential upfront and we'll zip tie as close as possible to keep it from moving around. We'll also be using aluminum clamps to help hold it in position on inside of your frame, part no. A0500, Aluminum clamp. Then we continue following the coolant lines all the way to the backseat, zip tying along the way. Then behind the backseat and by the engine we'll go ahead and make our first connections to a solenoid. All you got to do is match up color for color. Blue to blue and yellow to yellow. We'll leave our connections loose for now because we still have to mount the solenoid. With the solar remote socket we'll go ahead and drill out a hole on the side of the plastic on the drivers side. The location of the socket is at a personal preference. In this case the customer wanted it right here. We'll go ahead and drill out a quarter inch pile of hole first and then go back at it with a one inch hole saw. Then we'll take our socket and run our wires through it then mark and drill for our two outside holes. Then we'll install our hardware, there'll be the screws and on the backside will be the flat washers and nuts then we'll go ahead and tighten those down. We'll go ahead and run our cable underneath and zip tie along the way to make sure it's safe and secure and then we'll run through a solenoid. Now, we'll go ahead and plug them into the appropriate spots on the solenoid for these terminals on the solenoid that these bay connectors will go on to. This won't be their final location but we're going to plug them in to make sure we have plenty of working room for our wires when we mount it up. It looks like we have plenty of room. We'll go ahead and bring our solenoid back down Then we'll go ahead and install our rocker switch for our winch. Once again we'll start from the front of the vehicle and work our way back. Now rocker switch has a handle bar mount already installed so we'll go ahead and remove those parts then we can go ahead and install it to the dash. We're provided extra hardware. Now as we're down to the bare switch we'll go ahead and hold it up in the position that we want. Then using the switch of the template we'll go ahead and drill out one hole. Then we'll install the new hardware that comes with the kit. We'll take the small flat washer it will fit right inside the opening in the switch then it will run through the hole we drilled. Then on the other side we'll get a larger flat washer and then the lock nut. We'll go ahead and snug it down and that will hold the switch in place for a second hole. We'll go ahead and repeat the same process. Once both hardware is installed we'll go ahead and tighten them down for good. Now we need to run this wire back to the solenoid as well so right behind it we'll going to go ahead and drill out a hole. We're going to find a location underneath the dash on the far left inside and install it to the bottom. We'll mesh the wire to a drill bit because they're just a little bit smaller than the wire so it can take up as much as hole as possible. This size we use a 13/30 seconds. This is also just a couple sizes over 3/8's of an inch. Then we'll go ahead and trace the original wire we did for our socket. We'll go ahead and run out to the back and up to our solenoid. When we get to our solenoid we'll go ahead and disconnect the wires that we're previously installed for our location testing purposes. Then we'll install the new spade connectors from the switch. We'll push them into place and again we'll go ahead and follow the instructions. Looking at the top of the solenoid, looking at the terminals on the right hand size we'll get the black wire and left hand side we'll get the green wire. We'll slip this into place and you'll notice you have extra spades on those so we'll take the original wires and go ahead and match them up color for color and connect them to those spades. Now these are wires that came from the socket assembly for a remote. This wire harness also has a red wire that we need to run through a switch wire so we'll go ahead and put them in the same location as the original red wire. Once all the wires are run we'll go ahead and zip tie wires once again to make sure they're all safe and secure. That is not really a good place to really mount our circuit breakers so actually we're going to do is go ahead and eliminate the short red cable and we're going to connect . take our breakers assembly and connect it directly to the positive battery post.We'll go ahead and disconnect the wires that go into the positive side of the battery. We'll go ahead and do a quick test it to see how much room we have. It looks like we're going to have to trim out some of the battery box itself. Just a little bit just to give us some clearance. The hole on our circuit breaker is not quite big enough for a screw as well so we'll go ahead and drill that out to a quarter inch to give us some extra working room. Once the hole is drilled out we'll go ahead and take our two original wires put it on top of the circuit breaker and then re-attach to the battery along with a red cable behind your circuit breaker is going to be loosely attached. Once our connections are loosely made we'll go ahead and go to our ground wire. We'll go ahead and attach that to the battery as well. We'll take off the original ground wire, stack our new ground wire from the winch on top of it and then reinstall it. We'll go ahead and tighten down our battery connections for good. Then we'll go ahead and mount our solenoid to one of the frame supports on the inside edge. We really don't have good access to the backside of it so we're going to use a couple of self-tapping screws, no. 14 about a half inch long. We'll use those to attach it to the frame support and that will hold our solenoid in place.Once that's secure we'll go ahead and make our final adjustments to out wiring that goes to the studs on top of the solenoid and then tighten them down and then work the covers into place. We're going to take wires and go ahead and zip tie and secure them. We're almost ready to try it out. Before we install our hook in our cable we'll go ahead and slip on the safety handles as well. That just slips over the end of the hook so you can grab the strap and not the hook. First we'll go ahead and take our hook and attach it to our cable. We have to pull out our copper pin and then pull out the pin behind it. Then we'll go ahead and take a hook and put it on to the cable and reinstall the pin and then reinstall the copper pin. We'll then push the "out" button and we can see the cables goes out. We can go in push the "in" button and see it draw back in. Looks like it's working fine that way.Now we'll go ahead and plug in the remote control and try that. Once again we'll have it play out and then we'll go ahead and draw it back in. Looks like that's working good as well. Next we'll go ahead and put winch into free wheel and make sure that works as well, looks like everything works. We can go ahead and put the hood back down for good and go ahead and secure the under body panel as well. Right and that will finish it for part no. 100824, the Polaris Winch Mount from Kappers Fabricating Inc., and Super Winch part no. SW1145220. .

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