Today on this old trailer, we are going to install some weight distribution and we are going to use part number RP66074 from Reese. This is their straight line weight distribution. The first thing we need to do is go ahead and attach the ball to the weight distribution head itself. Alright, the next step is to go ahead and attach this to the shank itself and we will go ahead and adjust the preliminary ball height. To get our ball height, first off we need to get our trailer level and measure the top of the coupler for the ball height. We will go ahead and measure it up. Of course, each trailer is going to be different. So when you look at it, just go ahead and note your measurement and then aim for your ball mount to be about 1 inch higher. I will kind of eyeball it and see how close we get. So that is the same height that the trailer is right now, so we still need to go up one more. So we will take our shank and flip it over. Our closest measurement is going to be about 1-1/2 inches over, which is fine because the vehicle is going to squat a little bit anyway and that is why we go above the coupler height to begin with. Now we are going to go ahead and take our fasteners, a lock washer and nut. We will tighten it down hand tight, just enough where it keeps it from moving up and down. The next thing we need to do is adjust the tilt of the head assembly itself because we are going to push it back up a little bit for one of our dimensions. The first dimension we need to work with is finding out again and make sure our coupler height down to the ground we already know is a certain height. And then go over to your chart. That will be dimension X. And then also you want to take a look at the coupler style, whether it is on the top or the bottom. Ours is on top. And it also has an option for how thick your frame is. Between these two factors, go ahead and compare them to your chart and find your right height that we need to set our spring bars. And that is going to be dimension Y. We are going to set that now. 1:46
With that, our tilt is set and we can go ahead and remove the spring bar. And we will stop the top bolt for the head assembly. With the bolt and these two blocks with teeth, you want to make sure that these teeth fit into the teeth on the head assembly itself, nice and secure. Again we will go ahead and get these as hand tight as possible. We will give these bolts a final torque once we are rest assured that everything levels out the way it is supposed to when we put everything under a load. Let us go ahead and move on to the spring bars and their chains. Now the chain is going to attach to the top side of the bar. It is going to use this U-bolt and two flat washers and two lock nuts to hold everything together. A lot of times this is going to be a tight fit. You will probably have to force them in a little bit or maybe even give it little taps a flat washer and lock nut. And we are going to tighten these down to where only about two or three threads are showing through. And you will notice that you have plenty of free movement in there which is perfectly fine. We will go ahead and repeat the same process for the other spring bar. Go ahead and back the truck up to the trailer. We will go ahead and couple the two together. And then we will lift both of them up with the trailer jack. We have our truck and trailer lifted up by the jack. Now we will go ahead and install the spring bars and then that will locate our lift lock brackets. OK we will go ahead and install this bolt for the lift lock bracket now. We will get it started and then we will go ahead and put it into place. And you want to pull the spring bar up and then just kind of pull the chain vertical. You have the lift lock bracket centered with the chain. That will be OK for our initial setup. And we will just leave it like that. And then we will go ahead and tighten down our set screw. Now we are just going to run it down until it touches and then maybe about a half turn after that. Go ahead and repeat the same process for the other side. And we will start off with the yoke here about parallel with the ground. Then we will hook up the closest link to it. And then we will just go ahead and lift it up into position. Now the more that you have the truck and trailer jacked up, the easier this will actually be to do. Go ahead and install our safety pin. Now we will go ahead and lower it and check our work and see how the trailer levels out. 3:52
Alright now you can tell that we have our jack off of the ground. Now we will go ahead and check our trailer for level. When you do that, of course check both sides of the trailer, front and rear. Now, if your front is up a little more than your back, that is perfectly ok. Also, on the truck side of things, what you want to make sure of is that the front fender well stays about the same or settles just a little bit going down. The back can go down maybe about an inch at the most. Now, our trailer is just a little bit tall up front and the front of our truck actually sagged down a little bit. So, we can just back off one chain link and we will probably be ok. And then you recheck. Once we are happy with the setup and the level of the truck and trailer, we will go ahead and torque down the bolts to their final torque. And now we can go ahead and move on to the sway control part of it. Now it is going to require us to go ahead and disassemble the spring bars from the weight distribution head and remove the chains from the spring bars themselves also. So we will go ahead and raise the truck and trailer back up to get the tension off the weight distribution system. Then we can go ahead and remove everything. What is going to happen is, we are going to remove our chains here and attach them to this device right here. Now when we install it on the plate here, this curve is going to go on the inside of the trailer. So we want our U-bolt to be on the outside, with the nuts on the inside. And the same thing again applies on the bottom. About two or three threads showing through will be just fine. We will go ahead and repeat for the other spring bar. Next we will go ahead and start with the initial measurements for the sway control brackets that get installed on the frame. First off we need to find the center of our hitch ball, inside the coupler. And then we need to measure down to the bolt that the sway control pivots on, which will be right here. And there are two different dimensions. If you are using a trunnion bar, like we are, there will be one dimension for that. And then if you are using a round bar, there will be a different dimension for that. So make sure you use the correct dimension. So initially, we are going to put our dimension on the frame here to help line us up and then we will go ahead and go for a precise measurement. You will notice that we are going at a direct angle, not like this but at an angle. Alright, you will see our mark right here and here is out bolt so we are going to line those up and then we will snap the whole thing in position too. Also, if you have something underneath the frame that is in the way, you can take this and flip it over to the other side and use the other bracket, where the long part faces towards the back of the trailer. 6:21
Now, let us go for a precise measurement. We have everything clamped in position. Now there are two different ways in going about at this point. You can go ahead and actually bolt this into place, as if you did not have the tow vehicle present. However, we do have it present so what you can do is actually clamp the other side, hook everything back up, give it a test ride and then go ahead and make your final adjustments that are made right here, behind the cam itself. Since this dimension is going to be a constant all the way through no matter what you do, we are going to go ahead and bolt these into place. And then we will go ahead and leave this part loose and make our adjustments later. We are just going to use a 1/2 inch bit and just use it to find our center. OK and then we will make a 1/4 inch pilot hole after that and then use a 7/16 inch drill bit for our final hole. So our bolt will thread in to that hole. Now take these bolt here that will cut their own threads in the steel and just get them started and let them work their way in. The bolt stopped. And then a half a turn. OK, now on the back side of the clamp we need to install the set bolt and this lock nut. We will thread that into place. And again, you want to run it down until it stops and then add about a half a turn. And then we will keep it in place by tightening down the jam nut. Alright, one side is done. Let us go over to the other side and repeat the same process. 7:55
Now with our dual cam installed, what you want to do is go ahead and loosen up these nuts a little bit. Just make sure there is an equal amount of thread on both sides so it can move up and down a little bit. At this point, we can go ahead and reinstall the spring bars and hook everything up. We will take this part here with the chain. That is going to slide on like that. Lay it on top of this. Pull it up and around and over. Again, one more time with our bracket pointing straight out, we will hook up to the nearest link. And then we will go ahead and lift it in position. With our initial hook up, you can see that the round part here is not touching the backside here, on the spring bar itself. You want this to touch here and here. That is ok for now because what is going to happen is when we do our test drive, we are going to drive back and forth. We are going to work this bar back and forth through the hanger and it is going to settle into place. And this will move as needed so it will seat in there. We have everything hooked up as we will be going down the road now. Let us go ahead and we are going to go through the parking lot and make a series of s-turns. Make sure that the cams are fully seated into the spring bars. Once you are done with your test drive, go ahead and make sure that the cam is fully seated into the spring bar. And when you are happy with that, go ahead and tighten down the lock nut. And we do not have to go too crazy with it, just enough to snug everything down and make sure that the lock washer is flat. Our install is essentially complete now. Now a couple of things you want to also do is when you use the system make sure you a few of gear oil inside of these holes right here so the oil will work its way in and it will not wear out the steel as fast. One thing if you noticed, while we were pulling it you will hear a lot of popping noises. What you can do is go ahead and apply just a little bit, a very thin layer, of petroleum jelly on the cam on itself. That way it will help quiet down all the pops a little bit. You definitely do not want to use any other type of lubricant. Alright and with that that will finish our install of part number RP66074 from Reese.
Questions and Comments about this Video
Today we are going to cover a few questions about weight distribution in general that we get a lot. First we will start off with the hitch itself. A common question is can any hitch be used with the weight distribution assembly. Virtually any two inch receiver hitch as the one we have here, can accommodate weight distribution. However there are a few odd ones out there that do not, mainly they are on small SUVs and maybe a couple of minivans, for the most part almost any two inch receiver hitch can accommodate weight distribution. The only real bulletproof way to find out is to look at the sticker on the hitch itself and you will see some numbers on there. The numbers you want to look for here are right here. This one says weight carrying and that is for the hitch itself which means that is the maximum weight the hitch can carry without any assistance.
Today were going to show you how to measure for a weight distribution shank. It looks kind of confusing with the different lengths and amount of holes on it and different measurements. Were going to keep it basic and simple so you can pick out the right one the first time and well show the steps that are needed to do that. First thing we do is get two measurements, we need to measure from the bottom of the coupler down to the ground. Also we need to measure from the top of the hitch opening down to the ground. The difference between the two measurements will tell us what size shank to get. Well make that 13 1/2 inches and looks like we have a measurement of 21 inches. With some simple math, the difference will be 7 1/2 inches, so we need to find a that is close to that. The closest one we have is part # 3344. That part will have a eight inch total so that will be as close as we can get. Well check that out to make sure it works. With our measurements in hand, lets go ahead and test it. As you can see the ball height is the same as the coupler so it looks like a perfect match.