All right today we're going to install part number cab-c5g from Convert-A-Ball. First thing we do is inspect the trailer. We will make sure if there's a lube plate or lubrication disk that's already on the trailer. We'll remove it from the kingpin since we don't want anything between the adapter and kingpin. Then we'll install the locking collar, now when we first inspect the collar yo'ull see there's a white line located on it, we want to point that towards the very front of the trailer. We'll go ahead and push it into place and then we'll tighten down the three Allen head screws.
Now we'll tighten them down evenly and you want to make sure that the Allen head screw heads rest on the bottom lip of the trailer kingpin. It should go all the way in and be flushed with the surface of the collar; this should be even all the way around. We'll snug them evenly up first and then tighten them down. All right now we can go ahead and install the adapter, as this part you'll definitely need an extra set of hands to help hold up the adapter. We'll hold it up and there's a sticker on the adapter that points towards the front, we'll align that with our white mark that's on the collar. When we do this we'll make sure that the lock is facing towards the driver side of the truck.
We'll make sure that the adapter body is pushed up against the pin box and then once again tighten down the bolts, then torque them down as specified in the instructions. Once the bolts are tightened down, we'll go ahead and tighten down the jam nuts. All right at this point we can go ahead and take our truck and back it up underneath the adapter. We'll line up the adapter with the hitch ball and the truck. Then we'll go ahead and load up the trailer until its in a level position like as it would be towing. Then we'll loosen up the three adjustment screws and lower the ball coupler over the ball, we'll make sure it goes all the way down onto the ball.
All right next you want to make sure that there's no red showing between the ball coupler and the adapter body. We kept our adapter high to show the red part on the adapter. We'll go ahead and continue lowering the trailer until it's even. Once the trailer is level and no red is showing between the ball coupler and the adapter body, we can go ahead and tighten down the adjustment screws. Once again we'll tighten them down, then torque them down as specified in the instructions.
Next we'll go ahead and hook up the safety chains. Okay with that our adapter is already installed. That will finish it for our install of part number cab-c5g.
Info for this part was:
At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.
Today on This Old Boat Trailer we are going to rebuild the hydraulic actuator on here and we are going to be using part number 85841, the master cylinder itself, and then we are going to use a master cylinder replacement cap part number A87478, and the cable push rod replacement kit part number 85852, all from Atwood. The first thing we need to do is remove the old master cylinder itself. This is going to require taking off the cap which we have already done. We have disconnected the line back here already and then we can see our factory line, lets disconnect that and then we are just going to undo these four bolts right here. There is probably going to be some leftover brake fluid in there so it will be a good idea to wear some gloves or something. We are going to pull out the back and then underneath there is a little push rod you may want to pull away from it too to help knock it out. 01:09
Today on This Old Trailer we are going to install a brand new coupler using part number 2836AT from Master Lock. This is going to be a three inch wide coupler on it and in between here is going to be three inches wide and it is going to use a two inch ball. The first steps involved are to remove the old coupler. It has been on there for awhile. It is rusted so take a couple of wrenches to it and maybe we will get lucky and we will actually break the bolts and get it to come loose that way. This little stand right here got bent back, probably pinching the coupler, so we are going to take that one apart too. Obviously this is rusted in place so we are going to have to persuade it off. 00:59
Today we are going to show you how to replace a hydraulic coupler. In this case this one is damaged and is going to get replaced by a totally different model. First thing we are going to do is actually drain all the fluid from the master cylinder. And what we are actually going to do is open up one of the wheel cylinders and pump our fluid out and into a holding container. All right we will go to the wheel cylinder now and attach a rubber line to the bleeder valve and get our container ready. What we will do is take the cover off our bleeder valve here and we will go ahead and open it up. Okay, here we just take a rubber hose and just slide it on to the bleeder valve itself. All right and then we will just run the other half of the hose into an empty container here and start draining the fluid out of the master cylinder.