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Today on our 2013 Toyota Highlander we'll be installing the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 brake controller, part number 90195. We'll also be using the ETBC7 brake control install kit, part number ETBC7. The first step of our install will be taking the previously installed four pole connector at the back of the vehicle and routing it outside. To do this we'll need to open up the rear cargo door to gain access to the four pole. Then we'll remove the drivers side lower storage compartment and necessary panels to access it. This will allow us to reroute the four pole connector outside the grommet you can see here.
To do that we'll go ahead and remove the grommet. Using our side cutters cut a slice in the grommet and go ahead and route the four pole down underneath the vehicle. Then we can run the wire through the grommet and reinstall the grommet. Then we'll go ahead and route the wire underneath and once we get underneath we can reinstall the grommet. Next we'll move to the ETBC7 kit, here we'll take our new seven pole connector and seven pole bracket and secure the bracket to the seven pole using the hardware provided with our install kit.
Quick tech tip, I like to go ahead and start taping up my wires now while I have easy access to them using some black electrical tape Ill go ahead and tape up the first 10 to 12 inches. Now we'll use our Tow Ready Universal Mounting Bracket, part number 18136, and secure it to the seven pole bracket. This will allow us to attach the bracket to the hitch. Now we're ready to go ahead and attach the bracket to the hitch using the worm clamp provided with install kit of the Tow Ready bracket. The next step we'll go ahead and take the purple wire and cut it as we will not be using it for this application.
Now we'll go ahead and take the four pole and route it over towards the center of the hitch. Next, we'll go ahead and start making connections with our four pole connectors. We'll take the seven pole connector and the four pole connector from the vehicle and secure them together. Note, it's recommended to use dialectic grease in between these two connector points to prevent corrosion. We'll be using the dielectric grease for electrical connectors, part number 11755.
now with that connection made we'll go ahead and connect the black and blue wire coming from the seven pole connector with the gray duplex cable provided with our ETBC7 install kit. First we'll need to cut back several inches of the gray sheathing and remove it. Then we'll strip back the wires and attach them. Black to black, white to blue. We'll go ahead and use the yellow butt connectors pre-attached to the back of the wire to make this connection. The black will be the hot lead, or power, to our seven pole connector and the blue wire from the seven pole connected to the white wore in the duplex cable will eventually be connected to the blue wire coming from the pig tail of the brake controller for the power to our trailer brake circuit. Now with that secured Ill go ahead and take some black electrical tape and start wrapping up the wires. Now we'll go ahead and start routing them up the frame. Once I get just past the hitch and have an easy access to the frame we'll take the white wire with the pre-attached ring terminal and secure it to the frame which will be the ground for our new seven pole connector. For this application Im also going to add a loom clamp, part number A0500. With a self-tapping screw we'll secure the clamp and ring terminal directly to the frame. Now well go ahead and take any access from the four pole wire and feed it back up into the body of the vehicle. Then we can take the gray duplex cable and start routing it up tot he engine compartment. Remember when routing any of your wires stay away from excessive heat, such as the exhaust, or moving components such as steering or suspension. As you route your wire up to the engine compartment we'll secure it with some black zip ties provided with our install kit. Note in this application I will be removing some under body trim panels so that I can route the wire up underneath them. Then we'll reinstall the panels once completed. Now with our wires routed underneath we'll move back to the top of the vehicle where we can reinstall the interior trim components. Next we'll move to the engine compartment where we'll take the gray duplex cable and pull it up into the engine bay. Here we can secure it tot he manufacturers harness using one of the black zip ties provided. Next we'll need to cut off any access from the wire so we'll go ahead and take a guesstimate of how much wire we'll need as the white wire will get routed into the cabin of the vehicle making connection with our brake controller and cut off the access. Then we'll go ahead and strip back the gray sheathing so that we can route the white wire into the cabin of the vehicle. With the gray sheathing out of the way we're ready to go ahead and start routing into the cabin. Note, for this application we'll be using a pull wire, or in this case a piece of air tubing, to route through the manufacturers wiring harness grommet that's very difficult to see. Inside the cab of the vehicle it's located up underneath the dash and in the engine department it's located behind the strut tower on the drivers side. Next we'll go ahead and remove the tubing from the white wire and reroute it back into the engine bay. Next we'll go ahead and take the access from our gray duplex cable, attach it to the tubing and pull it into the cabin of the vehicle. Now with the wires run into the cab of the vehicle we'll go ahead and start mounting out brake controller. First, we'll mount the pocket or bracket. Once we secure the bracket to the dash using the hardware provided we'll go ahead and secure the pocket to the bracket. Here's where our brake controller will sit. Now we'll go ahead and start making our wiring connections. We'll take the pig tail, provided with the brake controller, and Im going to take the blue, black, and white wires and cut them in half as we don't need the access wire. The red wire we'll leave long until we get routed up to the brake switch signal wire. For this application it'll be a blue wire that we've already located. To locate the wire you'll find the brake switch that goes into the parking brake petal and then find the wire that's hot, or creates power, when the brake pedal is depressed only. To make connection with our red wire we'll use a quick splice connector provided with our install kit. We'll take the quick splice connector and feed it over the blue wire first. Then we'll take the red wire and feed it into the quick splice connector. Once in position we'll go ahead and clamp it down and close the clasp. Then we'll cut off the access from the red wire. Note, quick tech tip, I recommend you take some black electrical tape and wrap up this connection point at this time. Now we'll move on to connecting brake control pig tail our black, blue, and white wire. We'll strip each one back and add a yellow butt connector. We'll take the white wire that we routed from the seven pole and into the cabin of the vehicle cut off any access, strip it back, and attach it to the blue wire coming from the brake controller pig tail. As this, once again, provided power to the trailer brakes. Next, we'll take the gray duplex cable, strip back several inches of the sheathing and strip back the wire. The black wire will provide power and white wire will provide ground to the brake controller. We'll go ahead and match these up color for color, black to black and white to white. Now with all the connections made we'll go ahead and use the black electrical tape to wrap up our wires. Then we'll take our pig tail and plug it into the back of the brake controller and put the brake controller into the bracket. Now to clean up our install look Ill go ahead and take one of the black zip ties and secure the wiring up underneath the dash, cutting off the access from the zip tie. Now that we're back int eh engine compartment we'll go ahead and secure the gray duplex cable to the manufacturers harness. Next we'll measure out for the ground wire that'll run tot he negative battery post. Then we'll cut off the access from the gray duplex cable. We'll strip back the sheathing and run the white wire to the negative terminal. Then we'll strip back an end and add a ring terminal and attach it directly to the negative battery terminal post. Now with that done we're ready to go ahead and mount the breakers for our power leads. We'll be using the 40 amp breaker for the power lead that goes directly to the seven pole connector and in this application we'll use a 20 amp breaker to our brake controller. Using the self-tapping screws provided with our install kit we can go ahead and secure both breakers now. Next we'll take the black wire that we routed from the seven pole connector, cut off any access, strip it back, and add a small ring terminal. Then we can attach it to the silver side of the 40 amp breaker we just mounted. Then we'll go ahead and repeat the same process with the power wire that we ran for the brake controller. Now with both these wires secured we'll need to make a pig tail to go from the copper side of the breaker all the way to the positive battery post. Starting with the 40 amp breaker we'll go ahead and strip back the wire, add the small terminal and attach it to the breaker. Then we'll repeat the same process for the 20 amp breaker. Now we can go ahead and tighten down each one of the fasteners on the breakers. Next we'll take the two pig tails and route them over to the positive battery post. Here we can cut off the access, strip them back, and add two large ring terminals. Next we'll remove the positive battery terminal post nut, install the ring terminal, and then re-secure the nut. Now to clean up our install look we'll go ahead and secure our wires and cut off any access from the zip tie. Now with that done this will complete the install of the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 brake controller, part number 90195, in conjunction with our ETBC7 install kit, using our Tow Ready bracket, part number 18136. The dielectric grease, part number 11755 and our metal loom clamp, part number A0500, on our 2013 Toyota Highlander. .
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All right, today, on this 2012 Toyota Highlander, we're going to install part number 90885. This is the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller. Now, to help us to install this brake controller, we're also going to use part number ETBC7. This is the Brake Controller Install Kit. We're going to start with that part number first. Now, ETBC7 kit will contain a 7-pole connector and all parts requiring to go up to our brake controller up towards the front.
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Today in this 2010 Toyota Highlander, were going to install the Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller, part number 90195. To install this brake installer, well also be using the ETBC7 kit and a tow-ready universal mounting bracket, part number 18136. First Im going to install my seven-pole bracket that comes in my kit with the universal mounting bracket. Next, well go ahead and put our bracket on the hitch. Once I have my bracket attached, Ill just use a pair of tune snips to cut off the access from the band. Now weve got our simple bracket and universal mounting bracket attached to the hitch, well go ahead and install our seven pole connector.
Today on this 2010 Toyota Highlander we are going to be installing Prodigy brake controller, part number 90185. We are going to start our install inside the cab of the vehicle. We are going to first mount the Prodigy brake controller into place and then we will start the wiring process after that. The first thing that I want to note is that the Prodigy comes with two different mounting brackets here. The more traditional smaller bracket does take screws that are holding it in so it is more of a permanent fixture. And the less permanent pocket option is a little bit bulkier but it allows you to move the Prodigy easily, either if you want to store it or want to use it between different vehicles. Instead of having mounting screws, it uses these clips on the sides to hold it in place. So to move it from one vehicle to another, all you need to do is unplug the harness out of the back of the Prodigy. For this installation, we are going to use the more traditional bracket to save a little bit of room because this is a tight vehicle. There is not a whole lot of working room. 0:51