Today on this 2010 Subaru Forester we are going to be installing Draw-Tite hitch part number 24807. This installation will also apply for Hidden Hitch part number 60893. We are underneath the vehicle and the first thing we need to do before we can get started installing the trailer hitch is to lower the exhaust off both the driver and passenger side frame rails. There are two exhaust hangers per side that we need to lower the exhaust off of. There is one here at the more rear side of the vehicle towards the inboard side and then one on the outboard side a little bit forward of the exhaust. Then there is a fifth hanger we need to lower it off of as well and it is forward on the vehicle almost even with the rear axle. 00:34
Before lowering the exhaust off of all five of its hangers it is a good idea to put some form of support strap across the forward exhaust tube because once we remove the exhaust off its hangers the exhaust is going to fall down and if it is not properly supported it will damage the exhaust system. When removing the exhaust off of its hangers we are just going to use a spray lubricant. Spray the studs down. You can either take a pair of pliers or a pry bar and slide that in behind the rubber hanger and pry it right off. You can see as I remove it off of its final hanger that the exhaust is going to fall down. 01:05
With the exhaust lowered down we are going to take a look at the driver side frame rail. You can see we have got three plugged holes in the frame rail. We are actually going to be using the two forward most ones as our attaching points for our trailer hitch. What we want to do is remove the rubber plugs out of these two fastening holes. That is going to be the same on both the driver and passenger sides. To attach the hitch to the vehicle we are going to be using carriage bolts and blocks at both attaching points. They are actually different sizes which we will show you in a minute. What we are going to need to do is fish these carriage bolts and blocks inside the frame and pull them down through the attaching holes. To do that we need to have an access point. At this time there is not one large enough to get our carriage bolt and blocks in to so we are going to take the forward most mounting hole and we are going to drill 3/ 8 holes on each side and enlarge it a little bit and that is just enough to get our block and carriage bolt inside the frame. Again we are going to need to do that on both sides of the vehicle. 01:54
With the 3/ 8 holes drilled, if they did not completely overlap we can take a chisel and chisel the middle section out. Before drilling your second 3/ 8 hole on the other side you may want to test fit because a lot of times you can get the hardware into place with just one of the 3/ 8 inch holes drilled. We will drill a hole in the passenger side and then we will start fishing our hardware into position. As we stated earlier we have got two different sized hardware for the rear and front attaching points. For the forward attaching points you are going to be using the 1/ 2 inch carriage bolt along with the 1/ 2 inch block. For the rear attaching point we are going to be using the 7/ 16 bolt and 7/ 16 block. We are going to start by fishing the rear most attaching point into the frame. We are going to be using the bolt leader provided with the installation kit and again there are two different sizes. 7/ 16 for our rear hardware and 1/ 2 for our forward hardware. We also need to remove the center attaching point for the heat shield before we put the bolts into the frame on both the driver and passenger side. The heat shield is going to be pinched between the hitch and the frame once we get the hitch installed. We are going to take the bolt leader and fish it through the bottom of the attaching hole and out through our access hole. We will take our 7/ 16 block and slide it on to the bolt leader followed by the 7/ 16 carriage bolt which we will wrap the threads of the bolt leader around the threads of the carriage bolt. Take the other end and pull the hardware inside the frame and down into position. 03:24
For the forward hardware we are going to do what is called a reverse pull. What we are going to do is work the bolt leader on to the hardware independent of the frame. First slide the block onto the bolt leader and then wrap the threads and then wrap the carriage bolt onto the bolt leader. We will first feed the carriage bolt inside the frame followed by the block and pull them straight back down into position. We just want to repeat that again for the passenger side of the vehicle and we will put our hitch up in to position. You want to be careful not to push the hardware inside the frame when you are putting the hitch into position. For the rear attaching point we are going to be using this 7/ 16 conical tooth washer along with the 7/ 16 nut and for the forward fastener we are going to be using the 1/ 2 inch conical tooth washer along with the 1/ 2 inch nut. Now that we have got the hitch and hardware in position we can start torquing our bolts down. We want to verify with the directions the specific torque rating for each of the bolts. With the hitch torqued down we just want to put our exhaust back up on its hangers and our installation will be complete. With our trailer hitch installed we want to give you a couple of final dimensions to help make choosing your hitch accessories a little bit easier. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is going to measure 14 inches and from the center of the pin hole to clear the rear edge of the bumper is going to measure approximately 7-1/ 2 inches. This will conclude the installation of Draw-Tite hitch part number 24807 on a 2010 Subaru Forester.
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