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Today on this 2010 Subaru Forester we are going to be installing Draw-Tite hitch part number 24807. This installation will also apply for Hidden Hitch part number 60893. We are underneath the vehicle and the first thing we need to do before we can get started installing the trailer hitch is to lower the exhaust off both the driver and passenger side frame rails. There are two exhaust hangers per side that we need to lower the exhaust off of. There is one here at the more rear side of the vehicle towards the inboard side and then one on the outboard side a little bit forward of the exhaust. Then there is a fifth hanger we need to lower it off of as well and it is forward on the vehicle almost even with the rear axle. 00:34
Before lowering the exhaust off of all five of its hangers it is a good idea to put some form of support strap across the forward exhaust tube because once we remove the exhaust off its hangers the exhaust is going to fall down and if it is not properly supported it will damage the exhaust system. When removing the exhaust off of its hangers we are just going to use a spray lubricant. Spray the studs down. You can either take a pair of pliers or a pry bar and slide that in behind the rubber hanger and pry it right off. You can see as I remove it off of its final hanger that the exhaust is going to fall down. 01:05
With the exhaust lowered down we are going to take a look at the driver side frame rail. You can see we have got three plugged holes in the frame rail. We are actually going to be using the two forward most ones as our attaching points for our trailer hitch. What we want to do is remove the rubber plugs out of these two fastening holes. That is going to be the same on both the driver and passenger sides. To attach the hitch to the vehicle we are going to be using carriage bolts and blocks at both attaching points. They are actually different sizes which we will show you in a minute. What we are going to need to do is fish these carriage bolts and blocks inside the frame and pull them down through the attaching holes. To do that we need to have an access point. At this time there is not one large enough to get our carriage bolt and blocks in to so we are going to take the forward most mounting hole and we are going to drill 3/ 8 holes on each side and enlarge it a little bit and that is just enough to get our block and carriage bolt inside the frame. Again we are going to need to do that on both sides of the vehicle. 01:54
With the 3/ 8 holes drilled, if they did not completely overlap we can take a chisel and chisel the middle section out. Before drilling your second 3/ 8 hole on the other side you may want to test fit because a lot of times you can get the hardware into place with just one of the 3/ 8 inch holes drilled. We will drill a hole in the passenger side and then we will start fishing our hardware into position. As we stated earlier we have got two different sized hardware for the rear and front attaching points. For the forward attaching points you are going to be using the 1/ 2 inch carriage bolt along with the 1/ 2 inch block. For the rear attaching point we are going to be using the 7/ 16 bolt and 7/ 16 block. We are going to start by fishing the rear most attaching point into the frame. We are going to be using the bolt leader provided with the installation kit and again there are two different sizes. 7/ 16 for our rear hardware and 1/ 2 for our forward hardware. We also need to remove the center attaching point for the heat shield before we put the bolts into the frame on both the driver and passenger side. The heat shield is going to be pinched between the hitch and the frame once we get the hitch installed. We are going to take the bolt leader and fish it through the bottom of the attaching hole and out through our access hole. We will take our 7/ 16 block and slide it on to the bolt leader followed by the 7/ 16 carriage bolt which we will wrap the threads of the bolt leader around the threads of the carriage bolt. Take the other end and pull the hardware inside the frame and down into position. 03:24
For the forward hardware we are going to do what is called a reverse pull. What we are going to do is work the bolt leader on to the hardware independent of the frame. First slide the block onto the bolt leader and then wrap the threads and then wrap the carriage bolt onto the bolt leader. We will first feed the carriage bolt inside the frame followed by the block and pull them straight back down into position. We just want to repeat that again for the passenger side of the vehicle and we will put our hitch up in to position. You want to be careful not to push the hardware inside the frame when you are putting the hitch into position. For the rear attaching point we are going to be using this 7/ 16 conical tooth washer along with the 7/ 16 nut and for the forward fastener we are going to be using the 1/ 2 inch conical tooth washer along with the 1/ 2 inch nut. Now that we have got the hitch and hardware in position we can start torquing our bolts down. We want to verify with the directions the specific torque rating for each of the bolts. With the hitch torqued down we just want to put our exhaust back up on its hangers and our installation will be complete. With our trailer hitch installed we want to give you a couple of final dimensions to help make choosing your hitch accessories a little bit easier. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is going to measure 14 inches and from the center of the pin hole to clear the rear edge of the bumper is going to measure approximately 7-1/ 2 inches. This will conclude the installation of Draw-Tite hitch part number 24807 on a 2010 Subaru Forester.
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Today on our 2016 Subaru Forester we're taking a look at and installing the Draw Tite Max Frame Class 3 trailer hitch receiver, part # 75876. You have that nice sleek tuck design where it's going to be underneath the back side of the vehicle where it really isn't going to be visible. The only thing you're really going to see from the back end is going to be that receiver tube. You're going to have a fully welded design with a black powder coat finish. It's going to help prevent any kind of rust and corrosion. Also plate steel brace across the bottom which is also going to double as your chain tie down on either side.
Today on our 2016 Subaru Forester we will be taking a look at the best hitch options available. Our best hitch option available is going to be the CURT Custom Fit Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C13144. The second most popular model is going to be the Draw Tite Max Frame Custom Fit Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 75876. Followed closely by the Hidden Hitch Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 87654. Rounding out our top four is going to be our CURT Class 2 Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C12100. You're going to have your Class 3 trailer hitch receivers here on top, and you're Class 2 down on the bottom. Now, the Class 3 trailer hitches are going to be very, very similar in their design, shape.
Today on our 2016 Subaru Forester, we're taking a look at and installing the Curt Custom Fit Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C13144. Here's what our class 3 receiver hitch is going to look like once it's installed. It has that nice sleek look across the bottom side tucked underneath the back end of the vehicle. With that nice solid round tube, that's going to have that black powder coat finish, and be fully welded to resist any kind of rust and corrosion. It has the 2" x 2" receiver tube extending almost all the way out to the end of the bumper, with your chain tie downs on either side with that plate steel that adds extra strength to our receiver hitch and that nice appearance on the end here with that rolled steel across the back. Those are going to add extra strength. It's going to have 525 pounds of tongue weight capacity and 3500 pounds of towing capacity with a 5/8" pinhole going straight through.
Today on our 2016 Subaru Forester, we'll be taking a look at and installing the Curt custom fit class 2 trailer hitch receiver, part number C12100. Here's what a hitch is going to look like once it's installed. You're going to see it's going to be nice and tucked away underneath the back side of the vehicle with only the chain tie downs and our receiver tube really being visible from that back side. Now this is going to be your class 2 receiver hitch coming with a fully welded design, black powder coat finish to resist any kind of rust and corrosion and it's going to have a 525 pound tongue weight capacity and 35 hundred pound towing capacity. Remember it's got a half inch pin hole going straight through so you can secure your items down that you have on the back end. You can see that into that receiver tube, it's almost going to be out to the back of the bumper so you won't have to worry about having anything that's going to come to close to the back side of the vehicle when you place in any items on the back. Whether that be a cargo carrier, a ball mount, or even a bike rack. Now I'll go ahead and give you a few measurements to assist you in selecting from hitch accessories.
Today on our 2016 Subaru Forester we're gonna be taking a look at and installing the Hidden Hitch Custom Fit Class 3 trailer hitch receiver, part number 87654. Here's what our Hidden Hitch Class 3 trailer hitch receiver is going to look like once it's installed on the back of the vehicle. It's gonna have that nice sleek, tucked design where it's going to be underneath the backside of the vehicle where it isn't really going to be visible. The only thing you're gonna really see from the backend is going to be that receiver tube. You gonna have a fully welded design with a black powder coat finish that's gonna help prevent any rust and corrosion. Also plate still braced across the bottom which is also gonna double as your chain tie down on either side. Offering a 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube that's gonna have a 525 pound tongue weight capacity and 3500 towing capacity.
Today we're going to be taking a look at the best hitch options for the 2014 Subaru Forester. We've got the Draw-Tite and Hidden Hitch, which are carbon copies of one another. Draw-Tite part number is 75876. Hidden Hitch part number is 87654. Then we've got our CURT Class III. This is part number C13144.