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Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2008 Chevy 3500 HD

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Custom Fit Gooseneck Hitch



This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2001 - 2009 GMC Pickup, Sierra 2500 HD Series, 6 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 GMC Pickup, Sierra Classic 2500 HD Series, 6 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 GMC Pickup, Sierra New Body 2500 HD Series, 6 ft. Bed

2001 - 2009 Chevrolet Pickup, Silverado 2500 HD Series, 6 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 Chevrolet Pickup, Silverado Classic 2500 HD Series, 6 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 Chevrolet Pickup, Silverado New Body 2500 HD Series, 6 ft. Bed

2001 - 2009 GMC Pickup, Sierra 2500 HD Series, 8 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 GMC Pickup, Sierra Classic 2500 HD Series, 8 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 GMC Pickup, Sierra New Body 2500 HD Series, 8 ft. Bed

2001 - 2009 Chevrolet Pickup, Silverado 2500 HD Series, 8 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 Chevrolet Pickup, Silverado Classic 2500 HD Series, 8 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 Chevrolet Pickup, Silverado New Body 2500 HD Series, 8 ft. Bed

1999 - 2004 GMC Pickup, Sierra 2500 LD Series, 8 ft. Bed

1999 - 2004 Chevrolet Pickup, Silverado 2500 LD Series, 8 ft. Bed

2008 - 2009 GMC Pickup, Sierra 3500 HD Series, 6 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 GMC Pickup, Sierra New Body 3500 HD Series, 6 ft. Bed

2008 - 2009 Chevrolet Pickup, Silverado 3500 HD Series, 6 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 Chevrolet Pickup, Silverado New Body 3500 HD Series, 6 ft. Bed

2008 - 2009 GMC Pickup, Sierra 3500 HD Series, 8 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 GMC Pickup, Sierra New Body 3500 HD Series, 8 ft. Bed

2008 - 2009 Chevrolet Pickup, Silverado 3500 HD Series, 8 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 Chevrolet Pickup, Silverado New Body 3500 HD Series, 8 ft. Bed

2001 - 2006 GMC Pickup, Sierra 3500 Series, 8 ft. Bed

2007 - 2007 GMC Pickup, Sierra Classic 3500 Series, 8 ft. Bed


Products Featured in this Video




Installation of a Gooseneck Hitch on a 2008 Chevy 3500 HD


Today we are going to be installing Hide-A-Goose part number 9463-34 on a 2008 Chevrolet 3500 HD long bed. Before we get started, we want to do a couple of things in preparation. We want to go ahead and lower the spare tire out of the way, and we are going to go ahead and take the exhaust and remove it from its two rear-most hangers. The rear-most hanger for the exhaust is right here, and the next one up will be just rear of the muffler. There are two more things we are going to do in preparation before we get started. Just forward of the axle here, in between these two hat channels, we need to actually remove the heat shield from that section. The easiest way to do that is to get a cutting tool, like a Dremel or some tin snips, and you can go ahead and just cut the section. And we also are going to need to either cut or bend down the upper portion of the heat shield here, right above the gas tank - this part here. From here up it is going to interfere with the crossmembers coming through when we go to put those in place. So again, you either have the option of cutting it or just bending it down out of place. There is actually a third thing as well. On models that have the factory-installed brake control system, there are two bolts holding it on, on the outboard side of the frame. We can actually loosen those and pop them out the larger portion of the holes there. And we are actually going to remount that to the new mounting bracket that is included in the installation kit.

Now that we have got all our prep work done underneath the bed, we can go ahead and mark out our holes to be drilled on the inside of the bed. On long-bed models, we will be marking up 49-3/8 inches, and we want to center that mark in between the wheel wells. We can take and center punch that mark and then we can go ahead and drill our hole. We are going to start by using a 1/4-inch pilot bit and then we will enlarge it to 3-1/2 inches, which is required by our Hide-A-Goose system. And the next step is to slide the crossmembers in between the bed and the frame. Before we do so, we need to open up the space a little bit between the bed and the frame, and you can do that in one of two ways. You can either come to the outboard side of the bed and notch out the flange right in this area here. That will allow us to slide the crossmembers in across and get them into position. Or you can do what I am going to do here, which is to loosen up all the bed bolts. There are eight total bed bolts that we need to loosen - four per side. At the forward side of the bed, you have got one right here, and the second one a little farther back. And then the next two are actually on the inboard side. Next we are going to go ahead and slide the cross rail through. Make sure you do not pinch the electrical lines going across here.

Now that we have the crossmembers in place, we can go ahead and put the head assembly into position. You can see on the head assembly I have gone ahead and placed the ball in. And I have actually taken a second person and put them inside the bed. I am going to feed this head assembly up in through the hole here, where they can hold it by the ball while I go ahead and attach the head assembly to the bolts on the crossmembers. Again, we also want to note that the handle side here is going to be the drivers side. Now that we have got the crossmembers and head assembly set up and in place, we can come out to the outside of the frame, and go ahead and place our frame brackets onto the side. For this particular application, we want to set up the bracket so that it aligns at the front side with the first hole and at the back side with the fourth hole. We are going to loosely attach those with a flat washer, lock washer and nut. And as you can see, we have got a hole here and one here at the top. That is where we are going to be placing our U-bolt from the inside of the frame, and it will come out through those holes. And we are going to attach these with the conical-tooth washer and nut. And lastly, you can see we have got a hole here on the rearward side. We are going to be running a 5/8 bolt and block from the inboard side back out the outside. Again, this is the particular area where, if you have the OE electrical brake control system, that bracket that we put on will be attached to the frame through this hole as well. I am going to go ahead and note how to do that from the inboard side.

Now that we have got both frame brackets loosely installed in place, we are going to go ahead and start tightening our bolts up. We are going to start with the head assembly. We are going to go through and hand tighten everything first, and then we will come back down and torque everything to their specified torque rating. Now that I have got all the bolts hand tightened down, I have come up to the bed just to make sure that the ball is still centered inside the hole that we drilled earlier. Now that I notice that it is, we will go ahead and torque all the bolts down. You want to check with the directions to verify the appropriate torque rating for each individual bolt. Now that we have got all the bolts torqued down, we are going to come back underneath to the underside of the head assembly, and we are going to drill our holes for our safety chain bolts. You can see on each side we have got these oblong holes. That is where we are going to be drilling the holes for our safety chains. What we are going to try to do, since we do have a long opening, is we want to catch the ridge of the bed where it is protruding down toward the bottom, like this. The safety chains will sit in the lower section of the corrugation. We are going to be using a 9/16 drill bit to do these. And before I install the safety chains, I want to note here, you can see the two U-bolts that we are going to be using. One of them has a shorter leg to it. That is for vehicles like this Chevy pickup here and this heavy exhaust right below the area where we are going to be placing those U-bolts. We want that shorter leg to actually sit from the top down, right above where the exhaust is.

You can see now we have got the U-bolts in place and we want to go ahead and install the springs. That is what is going to help hold the tension on the U-bolts. We will go ahead and place a flat washer on first, the ring on second. Then we want to tighten the nut up a little bit. You want to tighten it up until three threads protrude from the bolt itself down past the nut. Last, but not least, we want to go ahead and put the release handle in for the gooseneck ball. We are going to take the handle rod itself, and we are first going to put the orange handle cover onto the handle. Then we want to take and feed the handle in from the tire side of the frame to the inboard side. Then we are going to slide it through the middle section of this release pin here. Now we will go ahead and tighten up the bed bolts. OK, now that we have got the handle in place, all we want to do is go ahead and put our exhaust back up on its hangers and put our spare tire back up into place, and our installation will be complete. You can pull the pin fully out and and move that over, and it locks out and allows you to remove the hitch ball. With it locked in place, the hitch ball is locked in. And that will conclude the installation of Hide-A-Goose part number 9463-34 on a 2008 Chevrolet 3500 HD long bed.


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