Today on this 2011 Ford F-250 we are going to install part number RP50073-58. There are a few things we need to do to get started. First off we took off the rear wheels that way you can see what is going on a little bit easier and with that ready we will get in the bed of the truck and start marking off for one of the rails for the hitch. We are going to measure from the edge of the bed of the truck itself back to the inside edge of one of the rails. With that part okay we will measure from left to right to make sure it is even. Once you have it the way you want it mark out the holes. 00:34
Before we did the drilling we also used a piece of wood to put between the bed and the frame just to protect any components and keep it from getting drilled when it did not need to be. Then we will drill out a 1/ 8 inch pilot bit and drill a hole through the bed and then we will line that up with the frame bracket and make sure everything is okay. We will locate the pilot holes, we have got one right here and on the other side will come up to a hat channel. We are going to line up with the frame bracket and that frame bracket is going to wrap around this hat channel going towards the back and the frame bracket going towards both sides. The front is going to stay on this side here and match up to the holes and see how it fits up against the bed. It looks like it is going to match up these two holes here and here. It looks like it will be a good fit. We will repeat the same process back on the driver side as well. 01:21
We have got the holes marked just remove the rail and we will enlarge them to their final size. We will do it using multiple bits working our way up to the 9/ 16. Now we are going to start installing the frame brackets and we are going to use the hardware that comes with the kit. We are going to use these two pieces right here which look like Ford factory hardware. It is kind of nice it has got a little lever to catch the nut on the other side. Put the bracket up and line it up with the hole and put the bolt in and put the nut in on the other side. Now go to the front one and do the same thing. It is going to be kind of awkward to get to so we are going to have to reach over the gas tank and some components here to get to it. We will move over to the passenger side and we will hold it up and do the same thing once more. On the passenger side we are going to use a different bolt hole on the bracket which is going to be right here. The hardware on the backside is going to be identical. 02:13
Now we will start with the front rail that we had marked and drilled out previously and we will start off by installing some spacers. These spacers need to be installed between the rail and the corrugation if there is a gap. If there is not a gap then you can put it on top and the block will go on the bottom. In this case we are going to put it underneath and this block will slip in between the hat channel and the frame and that will give us all of the metal to metal contact that we need. You do not have to get these right on top of the bolt in fact you can go over to the next corrugation over as long as you have not made contact between the bed rail, through the bed itself, and on to the frame bracket. Lets repeat the same process back on the other side, put the rail back into place and the bolts through. Go back below and loosely install the rest of the hardware. We will get the spacer block, the lock washer, and the nut. Just enough to hold everything together and we will do the other side. Lets go back over to the passenger side. We will place the second rail and we will use the hitch itself to help place it. 03:17
What we will do next is measure between the rails and check them for square. We will start off by measuring the equal distance between the rails. Then we will check the left and right make sure it is centered in the bed like we did before and then we will go check one from the other going across the corners of the rails themselves. Once you have them equal on both sides you will know that they are square. Same as before we will mark and drill the holes and we will be using the same two outside set of holes on the rail. Just like the front rail make sure you put the spacers between the frame bracket and the bed. The same as the front wheel, we will go after drilling the holes and put everything back together and install the hardware. With all of the hardware installed now we will put the hitch back in the rails and we will give it a shake to help make sure it is centered. If you have got some movement in there that is fine. What we will do next is snug down the bolts that go from the frame rail to the frame bracket and then periodically we will check the hitch and make sure it is loose and not binding up. Once you are satisfied with the hitch installed in the rails then work the bolts down to the final core. We will move on to the frame brackets and the hardware that goes to the frame itself. We will snug them down and then torque them down as specified in the instructions. Once you have everything snugged down and the hitch moves like it is supposed to you have got two more pieces of hardware to install. We are going to drill a bolt hole here and the same place on the other side of the hitch itself. All we have to do to tighten it down is add a conical tooth washer and a nut. With the hardware for the frame brackets torqued down we are finished with the install and there you have it for part number RP50073-58.
Today on our 2002 Ford Super Duty, well be installing the Reese Quick Install Custom Base Rails and Install Kit for Fifth Wheel Trailer Hitches, part number RP50082-58 in conjunction with the Reese Fifth Wheel Trailer Hitch Square Tube Slider Dual-Jaw, part number RP30051. The first step of our install is taking the rear base rail and setting it up in our truck bed. Using the measurements provided in our install kit, well go ahead and measure it out from the end of the truck bed. Note: this does not include the tailgate. Then well measure from side to side to make sure the base rail is even. The best recommendation is to go off the weld seam of the truck bed.
Today on our 2012 Ford F250, we're going to install the Reese custom base rail install kit. Part number 500RP73-58. First we've gone ahead and raised the vehicle, remove the spare tire, and the two rear wheels. That's another requirement to make it much easier to install our side brackets on the frame. Now we're in the pick-up bed, and we need to go ahead and set the front base rail--let's go ahead and get it into place. We'll need to measure up the back edge of the bed to the back edge of the front base rail.
Today on our 2012 Ford F250 were going to install the Pollak 7 way connector in the pickup bed, part #: pk11893-11932. To start our install, we need to go ahead and cut the hole in the pickup bed. In this application were going to mount it just behind the driver side wheel well. The flat spot here to mount on our 7 way right in the side of the bed. Well go ahead and take our hole saw a bit and make our hole. Now well go ahead and take the 10 pole end of our wire and feed it up from underneath the pickup bed through our hole.
Today on this 2006 Ford F 350, we will be installing Reese base rail kits, part number RP50082-58. For some pre setup for this application, I have gone ahead and removed the rear wheels, removed the spare tire. Ive also rolled up the bed mat and got it out of the way. Were ready to install our front base rail. Per our instructions, our measurements is 54 and 3/16th inches. Ive gone ahead and added an extra 8th of an inch to make it 54 and one quarter inches to compensate for the spray in bed liner.
Today on this 1999 Ford F-350 super duty, we are going to install part number RP50082. The first thing we need to do is go ahead and lower the spare tire so we have access underneath the vehicle. And then once we have that done, we will go into the bed of the truck and we will start marking out the places for our rails. What we are going to do is measure out from the edge of the bed itself, not the tailgate but the bed, and we are going to measure out and place a mark in the bed as described in the instructions. We are going to do that in two places on both sides. Now we have our mounts in our bed. We will line up our first rail and you are going to want to get them even left to right, using the seam right here works out pretty good. Our custom install kit on the bottom is going to use these two outside holes here. So we will find the center and mark that. Do that on both sides of the rail. Alright, let us move our rail out of the way. We will go ahead and drill a couple 1/8 inch holes. Now we are by the frame of the vehicle on the driver side. Now you do not want to really have to take off the back tires but we did anyway for clarity. One thing we know is that our plate is going to have to sit flat on the frame so that our brake cable here is going to be in the way. So, we are going to move that out of the way. There will be a provision to but that back on later on. 1:12