Select Your Vehicle
view cartView Cart
Only 16 Hours 26 Minutes Remaining

Trailer Hub Brake Magnet Replacement Demonstration

content loading




Info for these parts were:


Video Edited:
Zack K

Installed by:
Patrick B

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.

Demonstration of Replacing a Trailer Brake Magnet


When one wheel does not seem to be stopping as quick as the others it may be because the brake magnet needs to be replaced. We put together a short video to help you recognize this problem and to show you how easy it is to fix it. Keep your trailer safe for yourself and others on the road by checking and replacing parts like the brake magnet when needed.

What we are going to do is show you a few comparisons here. We took off another hub on the trailer right next to it. What happened was you can see on the hub on the left hand side there are actually rings on where the wheel studs are. It is also supposed to be more a flat finish compared to the new ones on the right hand side there. What happened was the magnet that was designed to wear on the hub has actually been riding on the hub too long when the brakes were not being used. It just happens that way. What happens is it wears down and makes those grooves and makes an uneven finish. What that uneven finish does is make the magnet not work so well. Like in this instance we had 3 wheels that were working great and this one which was not. This one has those grooves in there so that just deteriorates the performance of the brake. There is nothing you can do but replace the hub or find a brake shop that can actually plane that inside of the hub down to make it a flat finish again. It may be hard to find a shop to do that such as in our case. So we are just going to go ahead and replace the the hub with a new one considering that the inside bearing was worn down also. Since the hub is worn down we will have to replace the magnet to match the new flat face thats going to be on there.

To replace our magnet here we have to do a few things. Release the magnet from this arm and cut these wires here. Also get them away from these clips here. Do save the clips because they do not come with the new magnet so you will need them to put it back on. First off we will just clip the wires off here. Next pull these clips off. Then to take the magnet off the arm you have to remove this clip here. The wires go through a fitting that kind of seals it off from the outside. What we need to do is punch that through from the inside. Now we just pass that junction and get some fresh wire. Then leave that alone and install our new magnet. We start off by installing our spring. It kinda just sets there in place. Slide on our new magnet. Make sure our wires are going the right way. It also comes with a new clip here that holds it into place. Lets go ahead and push that in. Might have to tap it on then make sure there is plenty of movement. If yours does not have that much movement maybe clean it up a little bit. Maybe a slight dab of grease but thats a last ditch effort. As long as it moves inside and out like that it will be just fine.

Now what we are going to do is slide our wire clips back on. Then we will poke it through the hole, run it back through the plate here and let that lie. We then put these back where they used to be. Then we will put our little wire fitting back on there. It is kinda hard to tell but what it does is sets it into place and pushed together. Then it comes back through the plate. Once it gets plugged back into place we can redo our connections. Just for reference the magnets do not care about polarity as long as one wire goes to absolute ground and one wire goes to the power. We will go ahead and make some our connections with quick splices. Then our magnet install will be complete. We are using a gel filled quick splice. They work better for outside use. Take those and zip tie them to the back so they will not flop around or anything. Now we can just reinstall our hub.



Ask your question or add a comment to this video?

Name: (example: John S.)



Contact email:



Comment or Question



Yes, I would like an email notification if someone replies to my comment?   






Trailer Brakes Videos

This Old Trailer: Changing Hydraulic Trailer Brake to Electric

Today on This Old Trailer we are going to replace hydraulic brakes with electric brakes. Basically it is going to be a matter of taking off the tires, removing the hubs, go ahead and removing the backing plates and drain the hydraulic lines of fluid, and then going ahead and bolting on the new brakes. We will start off, obviously, by taking the wheels off. OK, go ahead and remove the dust cover here. It is an E-Z Lube spindle so this has a tang washer that we need to bush back down so we can unlock the castle nut right here. Just push it back down. Now we should be able to take the hub right off. The next task is to go ahead and disconnect the hydraulic lines. We have that disconnected. Now we need to pull the clip out so we can release this part here. And that is just a little piece of metal right here that you can just pry out. Alright, now we can unbolt this at the back of the hydraulic backing plate. Alright, now we can unbolt the backing plate from the flange on the axle. Now we are down to our bare axle. We will clean it up a little bit and then reinstall the brakes. 1:24



This Old Trailer: Electric Trailer Brake Installation Part 1

Alright, today on This Old Trailer, what we are going to do is install electric brakes. Right now this trailer does not have any brakes on it whatsoever, so it has two drag axles. So the first thing that we need to do is go ahead and take off the rear wheels. And then we will go ahead and take off the hubs. At this point we will take off the dust cap on our axle. And basically what you want to do is on this particular unit we have an E-Z Lube cap, so it fits kind of tight. It is a good idea to go ahead and rotate the hub and lightly strike it and then I will just back it off with a screw driver behind the flange. And then pry it off. Alright, let us wipe off the excess grease on the end of the spindle here and we will get to our tang washer. And we will release it so we can back off the castle nut. Alright, we have it cleaned up a little bit. Now right here, this is the tab I was talking about. That is our tang washer. Take this. Push it down flat to the flat spot on our spindle and then you can take the castle nut off. 1:07



Changing Brakes Demonstration

All right today we are going to show you a typical brake inspection. Basically what we are going to do is take off the brake hub here and we are going to inspect the brakes, the linings, the springs, and the display cylinder inside. First off we will go ahead and take off the dust cap. In this case it is a bearing buddy. Next, is taking out the locking pin. There is either a cotter pin that goes in the center here but once you get that lock washer off you have to go ahead and just take off the nut and pull your whole hub off. First thing you want to check for is grease on the linings, and sure enough we have got grease all over these linings here. Also on this side here and probably smeared around over to the other side as you can tell.



Bleeding Brakes Demonstration

All right today we are going to show you how to bleed hydraulic brakes on a trailer. First off you want to top off your master cylinder, with appropriate fluid. To pump the fluid from the master cylinder out, there is a couple of different ways of doing it. Sometimes it will have the emergency lever the and the safety chain will pull. Okay what you can do is unbolt the plate that holds the lever in place and then use that lever to actuate the master cylinder and force the fluid through. Some of them, you are going to have to go where the ball goes and manually activate it. Pull it in and out. Or like on this model here there might be a little lever underneath here that you could use.



Trailer Brakes and Wiring Installation

Today we are going to show you how to install brakes on a trailer that does not have existing brakes. It is actually pretty easy to do. It is just very time consuming. There are a couple of things you want to look out for before you start. You want to step behind your trailer, and look behind the existing hub you have. Make sure you have a flange like this on the axle. It is this 4-bolt flange on here; if you have that on your axle you are pretty much home free. This size flange has four bolts. You will see it on 3,500- pound axles like we have here. You also see it on 2,000- pound axles. On a 3,500 -pound one you would probably use a 10- inch drum and on a lighter axle, 2,000 pounds, you probably would use a 7- inch size. Also you notice we have the hub missing. We have to take that off because the hub and drum assembly is all in one piece. It is not like the automotive application. You have to take off the old hub, discard it, and start off fresh.






Subscribe to email newsletter

Email  

privacy - we don't send unsolicited email



Only 16 Hours 26 Minutes Remaining

etrailer.com reviewsetrailer.com reviews

All images, layout and content copyright etrailer.com