And we can just tuck that out of our way and maybe zip-tie it later. The next part we have to do is run our power wires to the brake controller. The easiest way to do it, honestly, is to go straight to the battery. You do not have to worry about any unnecessary connections. That being said, battery terminals do corrode over time. That could end up losing the connection due to corrosion that way. That being said that batteries do corrode which can lead to problems connecting to the brake controller, another way, that is not recommended by the manufacturer but it could be done technically, you could come off of this post here which is supplied by a 30 amp fuse. And then what you could do is come off here, go to your 20 amp reset breaker, so there is still a fuse with the right amperage, and make your connections here for the positive. And you could run your connection all of the way up to, say like this battery here, has a connection to the frame or to the body. You could probably make your connection there. Because, sometimes you run into a situation where the connections are already corroded up and it is probably not in the best interest to go ahead and take them apart again and redo them because you might have a bigger headache that you are not prepared to deal with. You could probably do it that way. In this case, I think we will go ahead and use this battery here. This truck actually has two batteries set up. 1:09
We will go ahead and use this one. This one looks like it is in relative decent condition. There are a variety of ways that you can connect to this. You can simply take the wire and big ring terminal and just install it between the post and with like this ground wire right here. There is also little brass tabs that you can loosen, do the same thing and reinstall too. These work well. However, you want to pay attention to them, that sometimes the little terminals that slip on here may come loose over time. So if you get intermittent problems, maybe the one of first things you want to check for corrosion inside of here too. 1:39
When you do your electrical, you may want to go ahead and disconnect the ground first. That way, when you work on the positive side and accidentally hit the frame, you will not get a spark or short out anything. And we will just text our connections real fast. Next we will go ahead and mount our circuit breaker. It is always a good idea to mount it as close as possible as you can to the power supply. There is not much room to work with here, so we will probably have to go back up around here somewhere. Now it is just a simple matter of running our wire, our ground wire to the cab and then we will make a jumper from the positive terminal to the side labeled battery on the circuit breaker and then from the other post back down to the brake controller. Make sure that that is good and tight and then we will just run that along the side here and run it back through the fire wall. Go ahead and run our wire back through. Now we are doing this one at a time basically. The reason is, make sure you connect your ground wire to your ground wire on your brake controller. If you accidentally run these two together by accident, it will instantly fry the brake controller and, basically, you just bought yourself a brick. Okay, that is one worry out of the way. 3:42
Let us go back and run our power lead, our 12 volts, to the black wire. We will run this from the battery to the one that is labeled battery. And we are going to leave this other end loose for now. This end will stay loose. We will make this our final connection when we are done. We do not want to go ahead and scrap against the frame or anything like that and cause a short. We are just going to leave that alone. And then we will make our jumper from here to underneath the dash. Okay, while we are here, we will go ahead and tighten these lugs down and zip-tie the wires secure. Again, we still want to leave this one loose. We will do that as our last connection. Alright, and let us make our connection underneath the dash. Alright, let us make our connection to the battery and we will test our brake controller, make sure it is working. 5:17
Alright, let us go and do our testing. Just verify our connections. Let us make sure we have 12 volts coming in. Okay, and we will double check our brake wire signal. Okay, we have that good. So now what we will do is we will test the blue wire and this brake controller actually sends out a trace current to make sure there is a connection to the trailer. This test light will do that, not a multi-meter but a test light. It has to have a light bulb to give it a load. And we will connect it up and see what we get. We have the green light, we will go ahead and spin up the power all of the way up. And we will hit the manual override. We have power and we will double check with the brake signal. We have pulses. Alright, the last thing you do is just clean up our wires here, going out to the engine compartment, and we are set. And there you have it for part number 39523 from Tekonsha, the Powertrac brake controller and we installed that on a 2000 Chevrolet Pickup Dual Body style.
Today on our 2010 Chevrolet Silverado well be installing the Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller, part number 39510 in conjunction with the Tekonsha Pigtail Wiring Harness, part number 7894. The first step of our install will be locating the manufacturers wiring up underneath the dash. This will be taped to the outside of a wire loom and a white sticker color indicator wrapped around it. Our first step will be cutting these wires free and pulling the sticker so we know which color has which power feed. Now for this application well only be using four of the five wires and the orange wire will not be used so Im going to go ahead and wrap it up then wrap up some of the wires with some black electrical tape. Then well go ahead and strip back each one of the wires adding a butt connector.
Today on this 2008 Chevrolet Silverado were going to install part number 39510. This is the Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller. Couple of things to know about this brake controller; first off, were working with an older version of it. The older version doesnt have the port on the end of the wires. Now to start off well go ahead and look for the tow package wires underneath the dash of our truck. Well look up underneath there and we should see a blue wire, a red wire, a white wire, a light blue wire with white stripes and an orange wire.
Okay, today on this 2013 Chevrolet Silverado, were going to install part number 90195 from Tekonsha. This is the P3 Brake Controller. The first thing were going to do is get underneath the dash and find the factory tow harness for our brake controller. Well go ahead and look up underneath the dash and over towards the left hand side looking up. Therell be some wires taped up. On this vehicle, its actually pretty easy to see.
Today on our 2012 Chevrolet Silverado we will be installing the Tekonsha P3 trailer brake controller, part number 90195. Now to begin our installation we will need to locate the wiring in the vehicle. It is usually found tied underneath the dash somewhere around the steering column. We will simply pull it down where we can identify the wires. Using the owners manual we now know that the red wire with the black tracer is our power wire. The blue wire is our brake signal to the trailer.
Today on our 2011 Chevy Silverado, well be installing the Tekonsha brake controller 90195. So, our first step will be to locate the manufacturers wiring that will be connecting our brake controller wiring. Here above the brake pedal is the manufacturers wiring outside of any wiring loom. Youll notice therell be five wires as in orange, which we will not be using, the dark blue which will be our brake signal that will go to our seven poll, a light blue wire which will be the brake pedal signal, a red wire with a black tracer which will our power wire and then a white wire which will be our ground. Ill go ahead and cut some of the excess length off, as we will not need at all. Now well go ahead and strip back each one and a butt connector.