Today we are going to talk about the two main kinds of brake controllers, the proportional and the time delay. The two we have here are the Journey HD and the Draw-Tite Activator II. These are what you call the time delay brake controllers. Basically what happens is that when you hit the brakes, they come on at a certain speed that you set on the brake controller. Like on this one here, we have a sync switch here that controls how fast it comes on and then this knob here controls how much power it takes to stop the trailer. Basically you hit your foot brake and it comes on at the rate you determine and at how much power you have set aside for it, and then it stays there until you completely let off the brake.
However, there is not a time delay on these. These are inertia activated, which means there is basically a little pendulum on the inside for lack of a better term that just moves forward as soon as you hit your brakes. With inertia, you know, as soon as you hit your brakes, stuff goes flying forward. With a little movement in here it does the same thing. The more the movement goes up, the more power it sends out to the trailer brakes. So once your trailer brakes start activating and your truck brakes start activating, everything starts slowing down. The pendulum starts coming back down too, and also it lets off the current going out to the trailer at the same time. So that way you have a gradual stopping power going with the trailer brakes. It makes the trailer act as one with the truck, more so than with the time delay units. A couple of differences about these is basically in how you install these on your vehicle. Whats really nice about the time delay ones is you can mount them like that, or sideways, or upside down it does not matter because they are completely solid state no moving parts whatsoever. And this one, the same way you can mount it on top of the dash, sideways, you can mount it on the bottom basically anywhere you want, as long as you keep it in easy reach. Now with the proportional one its a different story. They have a limited amount of angle that you can install them at. Basically you have about a 70-degree angle up and maybe a 30-degree angle down. It varies with different brake controllers. I think with the Odyssey you can probably go up to 90 degrees and it will work just fine. However, you can not really do any tilting like this, just a little like this, and maybe a hair of an angle like this from left to right. And you can do that on both of these. But for the most part, the closer to level you can keep the proportional ones the better off you are.
Basically, some people ask, Well I only use it two or three times a year, do I really need to spend all that money on a brake controller? If it is only two or three times a year and you have got a small pop-up camper, chances are the time delay one is going to work just fine for you. And, in fact, this one has a quick disconnect so when you are not using it you can just disconnect it from you vehicle, uninstall it and just keep it in your glove box or toolbox or wherever you want to keep it. If you are going to do a lot of heavy-duty hauling or even light duty with a pop-up camper but you are going to be driving a lot of miles you are going to be more impressed with the performance of the the proportional ones. Again, it is a little bit more of a headache to install in the mounting position, but you will get better performance all around, and smoother braking. And you will not get that kind of jerky action when the brakes and trailer engage and the slack gets taken out of the coupler and the receiver hitch, and it will be a little smoother on that.
Again, if you are going to drive a lot of miles, I recommend the proportional. For two or three times a year or for the weekend warrior or short trips, the time delay ones are probably going to be your best bet. I think maybe a possible advantage of the time delay over the proportional ones is it is kind of nice to feel your brakes working on the trailer almost all the time. Basically, you can feel them working right off the bat and it gives you a little extra sense of security. Again, you get a little rougher ride, but you do get a sense of security when you do that. However, that being said, the better brake controllers, like the P3 and the Odyssey, they have whats called boost features in them. And basically it makes the brakes come on five percent right off the bat. So it works kind of like a time delay at first, and then about a second later it reverts to its proportional mode and it everything works a lot smoother. That way, you can get the feeling of a time delay, where you can definitely feel the brakes working, but then you will not have that jerky action when you start slowing down.
Alright, today on this 2009 Ford F-150 we are going to diagnose a brake controller problem. Now we can use these steps on any brake controller that is on the market to verify if it is working or not. Now our brake controller is already telling us that it has an error message. It is flashing an Er on top. Usually it means an internal problem. We tested our trailer so we know it is good. So, it is not that. So first off we will make sure we have a constant 12 volt power supply. We will check the black wire first. OK, we are good there. Now we will try our red wire for our brake signal. OK, that is good there. Now we will try our blue wire and that will be our output. So we should have output on this wire whenever we hit the foot brake or the manual override. OK, we get nothing on the foot brake and nothing on the manual override. So definitely the error is internal and this brake controller does have to be replaced.
All right what we are going to do on this install is the reverse light lead to our electrical connector. For instance on a 5-pole you can use this on a boat trailer that has a reverse lock out for hydraulic brakes on it. Also you can use on a 7-pole application the trailer may have reverse lights on the back of it. Some RVs have a reverse light hook up on the back of it. I will show you the basic generic steps of how it is installed. 00:22
Today we are going to cover a frequently asked question. It really turns up a lot. And actually it is easier than you think. Basically, if you have a pickup and you got a tow package with it and you got one of these wire harnesses that plug underneath the dash and plugs into your brake controller, you might have five or sometimes even more wires coming off of it. And you notice that your brake controller only uses four. We have got one over here, we will show you, that has just the four wires and what do you do with the extra wires? The short answer is do not worry about it, because the brake controller has all that it needs from these four wires.
Today we are going to cover a few notes on testing an electronic brake controller. What we are going to cover here is going to apply to virtually all brake controllers. Basically, if you run into a problem where you think your brake controller is not working, well, it could be a the brake controller or it could be something in the truck itself, in the connector or c it actually could be problems in the trailer. What we are going to show you today is how to look for problems that will either rule out the brake controller or make sure that it is the brake controllers fault. Just like any electronic devices, they seem to have a limited lifespan some will work for years and some will not. But this way you can also verify that it is working good.
Today we are going to show how to remove the break shoes on a typical electric break axle, this one in particular is a twelve inch drum. We are using that one because it is large and easy to see. This applies to virtually all electric brakes from this size on up and down to the smaller sizes. We will go over how it comes apart and the tools you will need to do it with.