Previously on This Old Trailer we installed the backing plates in the hubs and on this episode we are going to install the wiring. Basically what we are going to do is hook up the wires for the backing plates and run them up to the front of the trailer. We are going to install junction box part number 38656. It is a good idea to have a junction box in case you ever have to change out the lead going up to your truck. It is easily changed out especially if you have a wiring harness that is all molded into one piece. We are going to upgrade this trailer with our junction box so we can do that. Install it in this location in the channel on the tongue. Hold the box up to it, mark some holes out, and drill it out to 1/ 4 inch bit and use 1/ 4 inch hardware to hold it in place. When we get the hardware installed we can tighten it down into place. 01:29
Next we need to start running our wires from the junction box and we will follow the existing holes that are in the frame down to our brake axle. The next thing we will do is make the connections to yhe junction box. We are going to peel back the gray cable a little bit and then we are going to run our white cable to ground that is labeled in the junction box. We are going to treat the junction box just like the inside of a 7-pole connector. White is going to be ground and blue is going to be for electric brake lead, however on the cable we have got a black and white wire. White is going to stay white to ground while the black wire will go to blue in the junction box. The junction box also comes with different grommets. You can see here this one is opened up for the cable and we will just replace the one that is existing in the box right now. We will just pull out the original grommet and slide in a new one. 02:39
We will also clamp our wire in position with the hardware provided with the junction box. We will add some ring terminals to our wires and attach them in to proper position. Next I am going to make a connection to the first brake hub and make sure you have plenty of slack so you wrap the wires where they will not get mashed up against the frame. We will make our connections and just leave plenty of slack and then later we will come back with some loom clamps. Lets cut back some of the insulation and we will make the wiring connections to the cable. The actual connections to the wire we are just going to use what is typically called a quick splice and we are just going to use that to connect our wires together. The brake magnet itself has two green wires. It does not matter which one goes to power as long as you have a secure connection one is going to power and one is going to ground. It does not matter on the green. Again on our second brake hub we will cut our wire to length. Make sure we have plenty of length left over so we have room for suspension movement and make sure it does not get smashed again. The same thing as before, it does not matter which wire goes where on the magnet. Just make sure one goes to ground and one goes to power. In this case we will be using the butt connectors to make our attachment. When using a butt connector with a smaller gauge wire like we are doing here, it might be a good idea to take the wire and fold it over itself and then install it in the butt connector and then crimp it down. 04:56
We will run our 7-pole cable up to the front of the trailer by the coupler. We are going to run it through the factory guide and then run it into our junction box. We will start making our connections for our brake leads inside there. Slip on the grommet for the wire cable and just like the other side put it into place. Next we will make our wire connections up from our 7-pole cable. White is still going to be ground so we will run it to our original white wire and that is labeled for ground. We will run the blue wire to where the black wire was ran to and that pin is labeled blue. We will make our blue and black wire connection permanent and with our extra bits of wire we have we can use that to make our jumper for ground. We will use the grommet on the top and poke a hole through it and the white wire through there. On the white wire we need to make a jumper off that post on to the frame of the trailer so the trailer can get ground from that point and then we can make that connection permanent. We have the left over wires and our 7-pole harness. What those are used for is the lighting on the trailer itself and for the purpose of this video we are just going to these both alone for now because we are only dealing with the electric brake part. Our next thing to do is apply the 12 volt power to our circuit and make sure the brakes work. Spin the hub with the power off and then when you apply power the hub should stop. That will finish our installation of the brakes on a standard trailer using a junction box and a molded 7 way connector. That finishes this episode of This Old Trailer adding electric brakes.
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Today on This Old Trailer, we are going to fix some lighting problems. Now what is happening on this trailer is that one side of the taillights is not working at all and the passenger side sometimes works and sometimes does not. So the first thing we need to do is go ahead and check to make sure we have power going all of the way back. That means we will start from the front and check our way on to the back. The first thing we need to do is go ahead and apply power. We are going to start checking our power from the plug on back. What we are going to do is actually take out the screw that holds the connector together. We are going to push it inside then we are going to pull it apart. Then we can see the contacts on the inside. We are going to turn on the running lights and we are going to hit the brakes for the taillights themselves. So, we should have three wires hot. We will go ahead and check that. It looks like we have power for a second here and it went away. We will try the other two. It looks like the same thing. So it looks like we are dealing with some multiple shorts. So we know it is something definitely on the trailer at this point. So we will go ahead and go back to the taillight and start doing a visual inspection. 0:57
Today on This Old Trailer we are going to diagnose some wiring problems. The problem with this trailer is that when you plug the trailer into the vehicle none of the lights work. It could be a variety of problems but the first thing we are going to do is start from the front and work our way back. Just to make sure there is nothing wrong with the towing vehicle use an independent power source to power up the trailer just to make sure. Then we will turn on the lights and check in the back. We have got our power supply on and it looks like there is nothing working in the back and also it looks like the running lights were not working either. Lets go back up to the front and check the connector. 00:33
Today on This Old Gooseneck Trailer we are going to install part number PK11604 from Pollak. This is their 6-pole connector and we are going to replace the one that is originally on this trailer right now. Now, what has happened to this one is it has been basically pulled apart a few times and basically the insides are getting worn out and some of the screws a striped out. So, we are just going to go through it and replace it. The first thing we want to do is go ahead and take out this screw and this screw here. This little screw right here, this is kind of a clamp that holds the cable in place. Then this little set screw holds the inside in place and in alignment. OK, let us push that on out. Now, when you go ahead and take these wires apart, note which wires go to what. On the inside of the connector they are all labeled left turn, right turn, TM for trailer marker lights, S is for stop which will be for brakes typically and you have the A in the middle for auxiliary for whatever you want to use and then you have GD for ground. 0:55
Today we are going to show you a little bit on wiring. Basically, a wiring 101 or what to look for when you hardwire into a vehicle. Hardwire means actually getting to the wires and splicing into them and making a connection. The first thing you want to do when you hardwire a vehicle is you want to make sure you are grounded and get a test. Make sure your tester is working fine. On some cars you will see this on one of the wires. Being the same color like these black wires. You will see a lot of them ran to a screw inside the body here. Chances are that is going to be your ground. You can actually use that ground for your light tester. What we mean by a light tester is a device like this right here. Basically, this connects to the ground and what this device does is this hooks around the wire you want to test and you push it together and it precises the wire and touches the copper wire inside, creates a circuit and lights up when you have power in that wire.
Today we are going to show you a little bit of wiring. Basically, like a wiring 101 and what to look for when you are going to hardwire into a vehicle. And what hardwire means is actually getting to the wires and splicing into them making a connection. We will go ahead and do our test and ground it. Instead of piercing the wires, if you have a junction that is easy to get to go ahead and pull it apart. And instead of piercing the wire, go ahead and test on the inside here. Just check each individual contact here until you hit something. Then make sure you actually have your running lights on and then go ahead and turn them back off. It also proves to us that our ground is good and it is working with our electrical system here.
To tell if your vehicle has a 4 or 5 wire system what you want to do is have a friend go ahead and step on the brakes. And note which lights come on. Now what you want to do then is go ahead and turn on the turn signal while holding the brake down and turn on the right turn signal. As you an see you have your brake lights on and you see the amber turn signal going on to let you know you have a 5 wire system. Now on this vehicle here we have a 4 wire system. The way to double check that is go ahead and turn on one of the turn signals like the right one here. Note which bulb is burning and which filament on the inside and turn that off. Then go ahead and hit your brakes. And you notice here, it is one in the same. So that means your turn signal and your brake lights are one in the same and you just use a regular 4 wire system you do not need a converter.