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Alright, today on This Old Trailer, what we are going to do is install electric brakes. Right now this trailer does not have any brakes on it whatsoever, so it has two drag axles. So the first thing that we need to do is go ahead and take off the rear wheels. And then we will go ahead and take off the hubs. At this point we will take off the dust cap on our axle. And basically what you want to do is on this particular unit we have an E-Z Lube cap, so it fits kind of tight. It is a good idea to go ahead and rotate the hub and lightly strike it and then I will just back it off with a screw driver behind the flange. And then pry it off. Alright, let us wipe off the excess grease on the end of the spindle here and we will get to our tang washer. And we will release it so we can back off the castle nut. Alright, we have it cleaned up a little bit. Now right here, this is the tab I was talking about. That is our tang washer. Take this. Push it down flat to the flat spot on our spindle and then you can take the castle nut off. 1:07
Alright, at this point we can go ahead and just remove the entire hub assembly. Alright, now we can go ahead and clean up the spindle so we can have a nice clean area to work with. And then we will start reassembly. Alright, now that we have everything out of the way we can see what is going on. What is going to happen is our backing plate is going to bolt on to this square flange right here with the four holes. Now, if your axle does not have that, what you need to do is get one of these flanges and have it welded on to your axle. Alright, one thing that we need to prepare is the backing plate. We will go ahead and pull the wires up and out of the way and we will route them through the plastic holder. That will keep them safe and out of the way so that they do not get jambed up between the flange and the backing plate itself. Then we will go ahead and install it on the flange. Two things that we want to remember is that the magnet always points towards the ground and, as you can see, the arm that the magnet is connected to, that bow always faces forward. 2:03
And then on the backside we will go ahead and install lock washers and nuts to put everything into place. Okay, let us go ahead and get our hub ready. I will take a finger full of grease and start off by putting it in the race. And then next we will go ahead and our bearing into the packer. You can do this by hand our use a device like we are using here. Pack the bearing full of grease. And then what will happen next is we will go ahead and the bearing inside there and then we will install the seal. In this instance, we actually have an E-Z Lube spindle. So, when we are done with this, we can actually add more grease. Basically, add as much grease as you can to the inside of the hub. If you do not have an E-Z Lube spindle, then just pack it as normal. Alright, at this point here you can actually use a special tool that distributes the force of installing it. Most people do not have this at home, so we are going to use a regular mallet and just lightly tap it in a circle until we get it even all of the way around. You can tell by the tone that you have it all of the way in there and flat. 3:08
Now we will go ahead and flip it over. And go ahead and do the same thing to the races and bearing. With that settled, we will just put a thin film of grease on the spindle and we will go ahead and reinstall the hub. Next we will go ahead and add the flat washer, then the tang washer and then the nut. When we tighten down the nut, what we want to do is run it up as far as we can with the tool. And back it on and off a few times, make sure the hub if fully seated. And then we will go ahead and tighten up the nut until it stops and then we will use whatever tab lines up with the nearest notch in the castle nut. Whichever tab you use, or notch, what you want to do is you do not want to tighten it to use the next one. You want to back it off to use the nearest one. That way, you do not over tighten the bearings. When they get extra pressure on them, they will get hot and wear out faster. And once we have that resolved, we will go ahead and push up the tab back into place. 4:23
Alright, the next thing that we are going to do is go ahead and adjust the brakes. And how we are going to do that is basically we are going to tighten up the brakes while rotating the hub until they just stop. When you can not rotate the hub by hand anymore, then we will go ahead and back it off ten clicks. And then check to see how much drag we have. The end result is we should have a very slight drag on the brakes on the hub. Now, ten clicks will get you pretty close to where you need to be. You may have to adjust it in or out depending on how much drag you get. Alright, we will go ahead and replace the caps on the back side of the backing plate. Then we will go back over to the other side of the axle and repeat the same process. And our next step would be to go ahead and put on the dust caps back on the end of the hubs. And we will just tap them into place. And there are a variety of different methods that you can do that with. We actually use a 2 inch conduit coupling. That actually works great on these types of dust caps. Okay, we have finished our installation of the backing plates and the hubs. And next time on This Old Trailer we will start next on the wiring components.
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Today on This Old Trailer we are going to replace hydraulic brakes with electric brakes. Basically it is going to be a matter of taking off the tires, removing the hubs, go ahead and removing the backing plates and drain the hydraulic lines of fluid, and then going ahead and bolting on the new brakes. We will start off, obviously, by taking the wheels off. OK, go ahead and remove the dust cover here. It is an E-Z Lube spindle so this has a tang washer that we need to bush back down so we can unlock the castle nut right here. Just push it back down. Now we should be able to take the hub right off. The next task is to go ahead and disconnect the hydraulic lines. We have that disconnected. Now we need to pull the clip out so we can release this part here. And that is just a little piece of metal right here that you can just pry out. Alright, now we can unbolt this at the back of the hydraulic backing plate. Alright, now we can unbolt the backing plate from the flange on the axle. Now we are down to our bare axle. We will clean it up a little bit and then reinstall the brakes. 1:24
All right today we are going to show you a typical brake inspection. Basically what we are going to do is take off the brake hub here and we are going to inspect the brakes, the linings, the springs, and the display cylinder inside. First off we will go ahead and take off the dust cap. In this case it is a bearing buddy. Next, is taking out the locking pin. There is either a cotter pin that goes in the center here but once you get that lock washer off you have to go ahead and just take off the nut and pull your whole hub off. First thing you want to check for is grease on the linings, and sure enough we have got grease all over these linings here. Also on this side here and probably smeared around over to the other side as you can tell.
All right today we are going to show you how to bleed hydraulic brakes on a trailer. First off you want to top off your master cylinder, with appropriate fluid. To pump the fluid from the master cylinder out, there is a couple of different ways of doing it. Sometimes it will have the emergency lever the and the safety chain will pull. Okay what you can do is unbolt the plate that holds the lever in place and then use that lever to actuate the master cylinder and force the fluid through. Some of them, you are going to have to go where the ball goes and manually activate it. Pull it in and out. Or like on this model here there might be a little lever underneath here that you could use.
When one wheel does not seem to be stopping as quick as the others it may be because the brake magnet needs to be replaced. We put together a short video to help you recognize this problem and to show you how easy it is to fix it. Keep your trailer safe for yourself and others on the road by checking and replacing parts like the brake magnet when needed.
Today we are going to show you how to install brakes on a trailer that does not have existing brakes. It is actually pretty easy to do. It is just very time consuming. There are a couple of things you want to look out for before you start. You want to step behind your trailer, and look behind the existing hub you have. Make sure you have a flange like this on the axle. It is this 4-bolt flange on here; if you have that on your axle you are pretty much home free. This size flange has four bolts. You will see it on 3,500- pound axles like we have here. You also see it on 2,000- pound axles. On a 3,500 -pound one you would probably use a 10- inch drum and on a lighter axle, 2,000 pounds, you probably would use a 7- inch size. Also you notice we have the hub missing. We have to take that off because the hub and drum assembly is all in one piece. It is not like the automotive application. You have to take off the old hub, discard it, and start off fresh.