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Today on This Old Trailer we are going to install a brand new coupler using part number 2836AT from Master Lock. This is going to be a three inch wide coupler on it and in between here is going to be three inches wide and it is going to use a two inch ball. The first steps involved are to remove the old coupler. It has been on there for awhile. It is rusted so take a couple of wrenches to it and maybe we will get lucky and we will actually break the bolts and get it to come loose that way. This little stand right here got bent back, probably pinching the coupler, so we are going to take that one apart too. Obviously this is rusted in place so we are going to have to persuade it off. 00:59
We will put our coupler on for a test fit. Usually the holes are not going to line up because the manufacturers have their own tolerances. We will take a look and see what happens. We have got one right here, this one will match up but we have too much vertical play so we are going to set it down and if we push it back we are too close to the original hole to drill out so it looks like the only other option is to take off about one inch of the tongue so we can scoot it back far enough and we can actually get into some fresh steel and drill and install our bolts. 01:40
Do a quick test fit. You have got plenty of fresh steel to go into now. Clamp it into place and mark and drill the holes out and install the hardware. It is a good idea to run the bit all the way through to make sure you have a straight line going all the way across. Install the bolts. Go in from one side to the other. Put on a lock washer and nut and leave it loose for now. Going towards the front of the coupler we are going to use two separate bolts. It will be easier to do on this one than the back one. If you remember the steel is kind of pulled to the inside, a little crushed. We are going to use the bolts to pull the steel back to the coupler. With our hardware installed take off the clamp and we can start tightening down everything. 02:48
Starting with the back we are just going to tighten it up. We want to tighten it up tight but we do not want to go so far as to start crushing the coupler and the tongue of the trailer. That was one solid assembly once again. Next we will reinstall the safety chains. We are going to use the originals but we are going to use brand new hardware and we are going to use a 3/ 8 bolt, that is grade five, and we are going to use a flange nut on the other side. That will get a good grip on the chain itself on the inside of the coupler. This is just one way of doing it. Certain states have different laws in how you attach safety chains. I know some states you can use one bolt going all the way through and some have to have two separate attaching points like we are going to do. We have got our safety chains reinstalled so those are good. The coupler is tightened down and we are going to leave the stand off because this coupler already has a jack that mounts on to the side. There you have it for our coupler install part number 2836AT from Master Lock.
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Today on This Old Boat Trailer we are going to rebuild the hydraulic actuator on here and we are going to be using part number 85841, the master cylinder itself, and then we are going to use a master cylinder replacement cap part number A87478, and the cable push rod replacement kit part number 85852, all from Atwood. The first thing we need to do is remove the old master cylinder itself. This is going to require taking off the cap which we have already done. We have disconnected the line back here already and then we can see our factory line, lets disconnect that and then we are just going to undo these four bolts right here. There is probably going to be some leftover brake fluid in there so it will be a good idea to wear some gloves or something. We are going to pull out the back and then underneath there is a little push rod you may want to pull away from it too to help knock it out. 01:09
Today we are going to show you how to replace a hydraulic coupler. In this case this one is damaged and is going to get replaced by a totally different model. First thing we are going to do is actually drain all the fluid from the master cylinder. And what we are actually going to do is open up one of the wheel cylinders and pump our fluid out and into a holding container. All right we will go to the wheel cylinder now and attach a rubber line to the bleeder valve and get our container ready. What we will do is take the cover off our bleeder valve here and we will go ahead and open it up. Okay, here we just take a rubber hose and just slide it on to the bleeder valve itself. All right and then we will just run the other half of the hose into an empty container here and start draining the fluid out of the master cylinder.