Info for this part was:
At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.
All right today we are going to show you a typical brake inspection. Basically what we are going to do is take off the brake hub here and we are going to inspect the brakes, the linings, the springs, and the display cylinder inside. First off we will go ahead and take off the dust cap. In this case it is a bearing buddy. Next, is taking out the locking pin. There is either a cotter pin that goes in the center here but once you get that lock washer off you have to go ahead and just take off the nut and pull your whole hub off. First thing you want to check for is grease on the linings, and sure enough we have got grease all over these linings here. Also on this side here and probably smeared around over to the other side as you can tell.
Other than that you want to look for leakage around the seals here. See usually we would grab that and pull it down to the side but there is nothing there so we are in good shape. The springs are nice and tight. There is nothing broke there. The only thing is it is just dusty and it has got a little grease everywhere but it is not bad. But since the pads are contaminated now we are pretty much going to replace it. And looking at our back side of our hub here, you can tell how the grease is coming out the back side here which can be thrown off do to centrifugal force. So that tells us right there that the seal went bad and after a while the grease came out of one of the lower shoots. Go ahead and disconnect our brake line. Okay. And then this is all one piece going to the backing plate so we really can not twist this off. You knock off this tab right here and then you can pull the line out. And then we can undo it from the back of the backing plate. And sometimes you can pull these with off pliers, but these are so rusted that we can just go ahead and just knock it around until we can get it to come off. There we go.
And then the next thing we can do is unbolt the backing plate from axle with these four bolts right here. Next we have got to go ahead and take off the hose, we will reuse that. Since the whole thing twists we are just going to go ahead and take it off with the other half. And basically we will just go ahead and reverse the procedure of installing a new backing plate. All right we are going to want to go ahead and reinstall our old brake line. Just double check to make sure there is no cracks in the line so take it and flex it around a little bit and kind of look for cracks. I do not see anything. We are going to be in pretty good shape. If you do not see anything just go ahead and reinstall it. Then we will go ahead and reinstall our backing plate. When installing your backing plate make sure you have the right one on the right side. This one is marked left so I will be putting it on the driver side of the trailer. And of course the right side will be for the passenger side. Now, also, the new backing plate does not come with any bolts or studs like the old one did so you will have to supply new bolts, lock washers, and nuts. All right we will go ahead and tighten down our bolts now. All right, now we will go ahead and reinstall our brake line here. And route it to make sure it does not rub on anything. And once you have it set up you can go ahead and put your clip back in. Thread our line back on. Once you get them to a stop, give them about a 1/ 4 turn past and then that should be plenty enough torque to hold everything together. Once you have your hub rinsed off you will need to readjust all of the brakes inside the. You will pop off some of these dust covers here. You want to tighten them up until you can not turn the hub by hand. And then back up about 10 clicks. Eight, nine, ten. You should end up with a very slight drag.
To bleed hydraulic brakes on a trailer. First off you want to top off your master cylinder, with appropriate fluid. To pump the fluid from the master cylinder out, there is a couple of different ways of doing it. Sometimes it will have the emergency lever the safety chain will pull. Okay what you can do is unbolt the plate that is holds the lever in place and then use that lever to actuate the master cylinder and force the fluid through. Some of them, you are going to have to just manually activate up here. Where the ball goes, just manually activate it. Pull it in and out. Or like on this model here there might be a little lever underneath here that you could use. What I am going to do, just take off the cover off of our bleeder valve here and we will go ahead and open it up. Okay here we are just going to take a rubber hose and just slide it onto the bleeder itself. So then, all right we will put our line into a clear container. The reason why we are using a clear container is that when we pump the fluid, we know that until we get no bubbles coming out of the bottom then we know we have got pure fluid in there. No air. We will start on the wheel cylinder that is closest to the T where it splits off between the two. We have four wheel cylinders. We will do the back ones first. When you get clear fluid running out first through your bleeder valve, you can just go ahead and pull it back and hold it there and then shut off the bleeder valve.
Questions and Comments about this Video
Today on This Old Trailer we are going to replace hydraulic brakes with electric brakes. Basically it is going to be a matter of taking off the tires, removing the hubs, go ahead and removing the backing plates and drain the hydraulic lines of fluid, and then going ahead and bolting on the new brakes. We will start off, obviously, by taking the wheels off. OK, go ahead and remove the dust cover here. It is an E-Z Lube spindle so this has a tang washer that we need to bush back down so we can unlock the castle nut right here. Just push it back down. Now we should be able to take the hub right off. The next task is to go ahead and disconnect the hydraulic lines. We have that disconnected. Now we need to pull the clip out so we can release this part here. And that is just a little piece of metal right here that you can just pry out. Alright, now we can unbolt this at the back of the hydraulic backing plate. Alright, now we can unbolt the backing plate from the flange on the axle. Now we are down to our bare axle. We will clean it up a little bit and then reinstall the brakes. 1:24
Alright, today on This Old Trailer, what we are going to do is install electric brakes. Right now this trailer does not have any brakes on it whatsoever, so it has two drag axles. So the first thing that we need to do is go ahead and take off the rear wheels. And then we will go ahead and take off the hubs. At this point we will take off the dust cap on our axle. And basically what you want to do is on this particular unit we have an E-Z Lube cap, so it fits kind of tight. It is a good idea to go ahead and rotate the hub and lightly strike it and then I will just back it off with a screw driver behind the flange. And then pry it off. Alright, let us wipe off the excess grease on the end of the spindle here and we will get to our tang washer. And we will release it so we can back off the castle nut. Alright, we have it cleaned up a little bit. Now right here, this is the tab I was talking about. That is our tang washer. Take this. Push it down flat to the flat spot on our spindle and then you can take the castle nut off. 1:07
All right today we are going to show you how to bleed hydraulic brakes on a trailer. First off you want to top off your master cylinder, with appropriate fluid. To pump the fluid from the master cylinder out, there is a couple of different ways of doing it. Sometimes it will have the emergency lever the and the safety chain will pull. Okay what you can do is unbolt the plate that holds the lever in place and then use that lever to actuate the master cylinder and force the fluid through. Some of them, you are going to have to go where the ball goes and manually activate it. Pull it in and out. Or like on this model here there might be a little lever underneath here that you could use.
When one wheel does not seem to be stopping as quick as the others it may be because the brake magnet needs to be replaced. We put together a short video to help you recognize this problem and to show you how easy it is to fix it. Keep your trailer safe for yourself and others on the road by checking and replacing parts like the brake magnet when needed.
Today we are going to show you how to install brakes on a trailer that does not have existing brakes. It is actually pretty easy to do. It is just very time consuming. There are a couple of things you want to look out for before you start. You want to step behind your trailer, and look behind the existing hub you have. Make sure you have a flange like this on the axle. It is this 4-bolt flange on here; if you have that on your axle you are pretty much home free. This size flange has four bolts. You will see it on 3,500- pound axles like we have here. You also see it on 2,000- pound axles. On a 3,500 -pound one you would probably use a 10- inch drum and on a lighter axle, 2,000 pounds, you probably would use a 7- inch size. Also you notice we have the hub missing. We have to take that off because the hub and drum assembly is all in one piece. It is not like the automotive application. You have to take off the old hub, discard it, and start off fresh.