Today we're going to take a quick look at the Wallace-Forge trailer coupler, part number FMC251614. Now this is a flat mount coupler that's designed to bolt direct to either a pintle mount or to the trailer frame. It has an overall length of about 7-1/4 inches. There are four holes on the back for bolting that are 4-1/2 inches, center to center, square on the back of the plate. Now we're going to go over the latch system with you. I t's designed to work with 2-5/16 balls.
To open the latch, we'll need to remove this top pin, as well as the pin below. Once we've done that, we can open our latch and pull the mechanism back. What that does is slide this wedge back and out of the way. While we're looking at the underside, I'll go ahead and close it again. The wedge comes forward and it will be resting against the back of the ball.
Open our latch handle and pull it back. Now, we've got a 2-5/16 ball here with us today. We can fit it into the socket, push our latch handle forward and the wedge comes around the back of the ball. The ball is now completely captive, it can't come out on its own, but it allows nice smooth travel to help keep the trailer tracking nicely behind the vehicle. With the ball in place, you reinsert your main lower pin and this is to keep the wedge from coming forward or coming back and then you'll reinsert your pin at the top, which prevents the latch handle from being open.
Now the ball is nice and secure inside our coupler. You could also replace this pin with a coupler lock sold separately to help protect against theft while your trailer's in storage. Now this coupler has a gross trailer capacity of 14,000 pounds. The main lower pin is also attached to a chain lanyard to make sure you don't lose it. And that's it for a quick look at the Wallace-Forge trailer coupler, part number FMC251614..
Today on This Old Boat Trailer we are going to rebuild the hydraulic actuator on here and we are going to be using part number 85841, the master cylinder itself, and then we are going to use a master cylinder replacement cap part number A87478, and the cable push rod replacement kit part number 85852, all from Atwood. The first thing we need to do is remove the old master cylinder itself. This is going to require taking off the cap which we have already done. We have disconnected the line back here already and then we can see our factory line, lets disconnect that and then we are just going to undo these four bolts right here. There is probably going to be some leftover brake fluid in there so it will be a good idea to wear some gloves or something. We are going to pull out the back and then underneath there is a little push rod you may want to pull away from it too to help knock it out. 01:09
Today on This Old Trailer we are going to install a brand new coupler using part number 2836AT from Master Lock. This is going to be a three inch wide coupler on it and in between here is going to be three inches wide and it is going to use a two inch ball. The first steps involved are to remove the old coupler. It has been on there for awhile. It is rusted so take a couple of wrenches to it and maybe we will get lucky and we will actually break the bolts and get it to come loose that way. This little stand right here got bent back, probably pinching the coupler, so we are going to take that one apart too. Obviously this is rusted in place so we are going to have to persuade it off. 00:59
Today we are going to show you how to replace a hydraulic coupler. In this case this one is damaged and is going to get replaced by a totally different model. First thing we are going to do is actually drain all the fluid from the master cylinder. And what we are actually going to do is open up one of the wheel cylinders and pump our fluid out and into a holding container. All right we will go to the wheel cylinder now and attach a rubber line to the bleeder valve and get our container ready. What we will do is take the cover off our bleeder valve here and we will go ahead and open it up. Okay, here we just take a rubber hose and just slide it on to the bleeder valve itself. All right and then we will just run the other half of the hose into an empty container here and start draining the fluid out of the master cylinder.